Indulgence is the main ingredient at Kawi, Momofuku’s (see p. ###) Hudson Yards outpost. One complete section of the menu, called Anju, is devoted to bar snacks, and like much of that genre, they’re (mostly) fried, with the resulting tangles of vegetables and fish light, crispy….and decidedly not diet-friendly. A Korean version of sushi includes maki stuffed with foie gras! Another menu section features rice rolls that are milled on site, and slathered with delicious sauces, like a wagyu ragu or chili jam and thinly sliced ham. The 2-inch thick rolls are spectacular, spectacularly heavy, and so gooey that a knife won’t do for cutting: instead a waiter brings out a huge pair of gold scissors to slice it into pieces. (Kawi is a play on “gawi” which means “scissors” in Korean, which begs the question “which came first, the restaurant name or the dish”?) You won’t find much green on the plates, but heck, it’s one night of not worrying about one’s waistline, right? And this is certainly a nice place to indulge: with its red leather booths, bustling open kitchen, and burnished wood walls, you never feel like you’re dining in a mall. Even though you are.