Celery root: a humble vegetable, right? Not in the hands of Markus Glocker, the masterful chef behind this sophisticated, new-in-2022 restaurant. In Glocker’s precise formulation, the diced up root is swaddled in parmesan and mustard sauce, and somehow takes on the flavor of the finest steak tartare. It’s a captivating dish, and its originality balances a menu that mostly focuses on breathing exciting new life into such Germanic classics as salmon en croute (in pastry), veal schnitzel, and apple strudel. By the way, the name is an homage to Austrian designer Koloman Moser, a star of the so-called Vienna Secession movement of the late 20th century (Gustave Klimt is the most famous secessionist today). The sexy design of this restaurant, with its backlit bar, and its extensive use of geometric patterns, is a nod to his aesthetic.