New York Magazine called chef Missy Robbins a “pasta goddess”—an apt title. A darling of the New York culinary scene, she certainly knows her way around noodles, stuffing agnoletti with a honey-sweetened ricotta that’s cut by tart strips of dried tomatoes (in the sauce) and pairing crunchy broccoli and pistachio pesto with the softest of gnocchi. She’s also a fish whiz, not afraid to be decadent, piling cured sardines over frozen curls of butter-topped toast and slathering wood-grilled scallops with walnut-studded yogurt. But what I most respect about this chef/owner is how she’s giving a hand up to other women. Her austere dining room (in a high-ceilinged former, garage) offers full views of the open kitchen, where you’ll see that fully half of the line cooks are female—a rarity in this male-dominated industry. Note: In late 2018, Robbins opened a new restaurant called Misi (329 Kent Ave. www.misinewyork.com), with a slimmer menu and a more crowded-feeling space. Both places serve stellar food, but it’s now easier to get a reservation at Lilia, because of this “sibling”.
New York City
New York City› Restaurant
567 Union Ave.
Our Rating Neighborhood Brooklyn Hours Mon–Sat 5:30–11pm, Sun 5–11pm Transportation Subway: L to Bedford Phone 718/576-3095 Prices Main courses $18–$27 Cuisine Type Italian Web site Lillia Restaurant
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.