The New Yorker called the food here “unexpectedly exquisite fast food”—that’s not hyperbole.  Founded by two young chefs who’ve worked in some of the best kitchens in town, the food has roots in Chinese food, but its presentation is distinctly American:  bowls of artfully composed proteins and veggies over either white rice or mixed grains. The centerpiece of a bowl might be cubed salmon with charred broccoli dressed in a lightly peppery ginger scallion sauce; or a well-marbled braised brisket with a chili garlic mint sauce; or crackly-skinned mandarin duck, among other options. Don’t pass up the malt cookie for dessert. It’s counter service here, but the setting is bright and pleasant so it feels like a real sitdown meal, and they do have beer and wine for sale.