The Empellon restaurants came first, and then Cosme straight from Mexico City, and Casa Enrique in Queens. With the late 2018 debut of Oxomoco it became official: Gotham’s Mexican food drought was over! The city now rivals—dare I say it?—Los Angeles for the quality and variety of its south-of-the-border eats. And this may well be my favorite of the crew listed above, for its evocative setting—with high rough-hewn white walls and an abundance of hanging plants, it captures the spirit of Mexico’s colonial cities—and its authentic fire-kissed Oaxacan cuisine. The spices will engulf your tongue, and the fabulous steak tartare comes with a sprinkling of fried grasshoppers. Especially recommended: the lamb barbacoa and squash-blossom tacos, and the masa-fried cauliflower in mole sauce. Be careful on the margaritas: they’re potent and huuuuuge.