This is where we take out-of-town guests because it is, quite literally, dinner and a show. Ask for space in the front room when you make your reservations, so you can sit at the squared bar, in the center of which two Japanese chefs kneel. In front of them is a grill, onto which, with gestures that are as delicate as a ballerina, they flip seafood, meats, and vegetables, gathering the ingredients they need with a 10-foot-long paddle. That paddle is later used to serve you your dishes, hot off the grill. It’s difficult to describe the experience adequately, but trust me, it’s one you’ll remember. Kids love this place, too, not just for the experience but for the food, which is scrumptious but straightforward (there aren’t a lot of sauces or spices used).
- Pauline Frommer