Rosella focuses its menu around local and sustainable fish (and vegetables), making this one of the most ethical places to eat in the city. In fact, it tries to only serve fish that’s either been farmed or caught through methods that have minimal environmental impact; it also introduces diners to a number of domestic species that are overlooked by other chefs.  But if doing good sounds dull, think again. Local means super, super fresh, like striped bass raised on a farm just one borough over in Bushwick, Brooklyn! Yes, that was on the menu the last time I was here, as were Gulf shrimp, Long Island oysters, and North Carolina blue fin tuna, among other delicacies. Sometimes these are topped by unusual but evocative ingredients, like ground-up corn nuts, pickled strawberry, or garlic chips. Though the restaurant’s decor is not super-fancy—it consists of a large rectangular counter, inside which the chefs toil, crammed into a not-very-large room off Tompkins Square Park—it has a superb tasting menu ($150). Choose that and you’ll be coddled for a good three hours with taste