With its mismatched tables, mottled walls, Venetian-style glass chandeliers, and works of taxidermy above the bar, Sfoglia evokes the kinds of trattorias one usually only finds on the boot of Italy itself. By which I mean: a place that was created many generations ago, that’s been lovingly maintained by the family ever since. That’s an illusion, of course. Sfoglia came to life in 2006, as an off-shoot of an Italian eatery in Nantucket, and has changed hands since its founding. But it still is a pretty potent imaginary trip across the pond, thanks to the setting, the freshly made pastas, the generous use of cured meats in many dishes (most notably the delicious clams), and the grandmotherly service. An oldie but a goodie!