For those new to this Japanese specialty, shabu shabu is traditionally a self-cooked meal, involving a pot of boiling water or broth set on a burner in the middle of the table, which diners dip proteins and vegetables into before dipping, once again, in a sauce.  But chef Mako Okano has taken DIY out of the equation, and serves her guests with the same kind of gentleness and grace mama birds exhibit when feeding their young. No, nothing is placed in a diner’s mouth, but each bite is individually cooked by Okano, with instructions from the chef on which little dipping bowl to use. It’s a labor intensive exercise, so only 8 guests per serving can be accommodated, making this one of the most difficult reservations in town to snag. But the experience is fascinating, and the food out of this world.