Diners experience an uncomfortable sensation when they come here: FOMO. Even if you’re with a group, it’s impossible to try all the stars on this long menu, and if you’re sitting at the chef’s counter (recommended!) you’ll keep second-guessing your order as you watch the parade of fascinating dishes being assembled. Chef/partner Ayesha Nurdjaja’s version of Middle Eastern fare is far more inventive and opulent than one gets most places. So the hummus, to give one example, has a whipped cream lightness that’s offset with a bracing garlic-chile sauce called shatta. A small plate of roasted cauliflower is pushed into the wood-fired oven with sweet figs and a careful dusting of herbs, and comes out tasting like the rich cousin of other cruciferous veggies. To drag through the dips (and they’re all fab in their own ways) are four different house-made breads, each better than the next. There’s also scintillating salads, tagines, perfectly charred lamb sausages, and more, and more, and more. The one thing you must order is Toum, an assertive whipped garlic condiment that improves anything it’s slathered on.

Two warnings: it can get loud in here, thanks to the beat-heavy soundtrack.  Also, getting a reservation is very difficult, so put down this book and get on it now.