Fun, kitschy décor belies the serious ambitions of the chef/owners, a married pair who met working at California’s famed Per Se restaurant. Their version of Thai food is complex, toothsome, and often surprising, with many dishes the U.S. hasn’t seen before; such standards as massaman curry and pad thai are stripped of cloying sweetness and endowed with a punch of spice. This being a “diner” they also serve some American fare, and some fusion dishes, the best of which are the disco fries, which are classic strips of fried potato topped with a complex curry and cheese curds. It’ll make you want to dance, I promise.