Forgive them for the cutesy spelling, the name is the only part of this restaurant that isn’t sophisticated in the extreme. Set in the Nomad Hotel and “chef-ed” by rising star Daniel Humm, it’s a primo date restaurant, with a sexy, Belle Epoque design; “kiss me now” cocktails, including one made with absinthe; and food that is wonderfully colorful as well as scrumptious. The menu changes constantly, but when I was last there, the spring garlic veloute was swoon-worthy, and the poached lobster was just as luxurious as it should have been. The only thing I don’t like about the NoMad is how maddening it is to try and get a reservation here (call weeks in advance) and how uncomfortable the bar seating is, if you decide to dine here that way. Ah, well, no place is perfect, I suppose.
- Pauline Frommer