You’ll notice that there aren’t very many Mexican restaurants in this book. That’s not an oversight; Mexican food simply isn’t done as well in New York City as it is in, well, states that are closer to Mexico. But Toloache is an exception, a restaurant that’s at once very authentic (hey, they’ve got crickets on the menu!) and terrifically creative. That means tacos with succulent brisket, or ceviche with lobster, strawberry, avocado, truffles, and red onions. They’re also expert at getting you to the theater on time; service is brisk but friendly. Be sure to make a reservation, as they book up well in advance.
- Pauline Frommer