Planning a trip to New York State

Getting Around

New York State is considerably larger than many people realize; the drive from New York City to Niagara Falls can take 7 or 8 hours, while the nearest point in the Finger Lakes is nearly 5 hours from the city. Before you commit to hours of drive time, you may want to weigh the alternatives.

By Plane

JetBlue Airways (tel. 800/538-2583; www.jetblue.com) is hard to beat, with consistently low ticket prices and daily runs from New York City (JFK Airport) to Buffalo, Rochester, and Syracuse.

US Airways (tel. 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com) and its partner Colgan Air (www.colganair.com) provide direct flights from New York City to Albany, Buffalo, Ithaca, Rochester, and Syracuse, as well as service from Albany to Buffalo and Islip. Northwest Airlines (tel. 800/225-2525; www.nwa.com) flies to Ithaca.

Overseas visitors can take advantage of the APEX (Advance Purchase Excursion) reductions offered by all major U.S. and European carriers. In addition, some large airlines offer transatlantic or transpacific passengers special discount tickets under the name Visit USA, which allows mostly one-way travel from one U.S. destination to another at very low prices. Unavailable in the U.S., these tickets must be purchased abroad in conjunction with your international fare. This is the easiest, fastest, cheapest way to see the country.

By Car

Unless you plan to spend the bulk of your vacation in a city where walking is the best way to get around (read: NYC), the most cost-effective way to travel in New York State is by car.

If you're visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, keep in mind that foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you should get an international one if your home license is not in English.

Check out Breezenet.com, which offers domestic car-rental discounts with some of the most competitive rates around.

Gas prices in New York State tend to be about 10¢ higher than the national average. Of the major cities, Albany and Binghamton have the cheapest gas. Not surprisingly, New York City's is the most expensive (as much as 50¢ higher per gallon).

If you plan to travel between December and March, be advised that winter weather can present significant obstacles, such as wet or icy pavement, poor visibility, or routes that are just plain shut down. Make sure that your vehicle is adequately prepared with snow tires and working windshield wipers, battery, and defrosters. Most likely, though, you won't run into too many problems. Roads are well maintained in the winter, and even after a storm, side streets and highways alike are cleared fairly quickly.

Highway speed limits are 55 or 65 mph. The speed limit in New York City is 30 mph unless otherwise posted. "Right on red" (making a right turn at a red light after coming to a complete stop) is permitted in most parts of New York State, but not in New York City. Motorcyclists must wear helmets, and goggles if helmets are not equipped with face shields. State law requires drivers, front-seat passengers, and children under 10 to wear seat belts. Children under 4 must ride in safety seats. Fines can run up to $100. Talking on a hand-held cellphone while driving (without an earpiece) is punishable by a fine of up to $100 (exceptions are made for emergency situations, such as calls to the police). Drivers can be charged with driving while intoxicated (DWI) for having a blood alcohol content of .08% or higher and sentenced to a fine or jail time upon conviction.

By Train

The train won't get you where you're going any faster, but it will cut down on the amount of time you have to spend behind the wheel. Once you get where you're going, though, you'll probably need to rent a car anyway since public transportation is not very extensive beyond New York City.

Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL; www.amtrak.com) basically follows the same paths as the New York State Thruway and the Adirondack Northway (rtes. 90 and 87), leaving much of the state inaccessible by rail.

Visitors to Long Island can take the Long Island Rail Road (LIRR; tel. 718/217-5477; www.mta.nyc.ny.us/lirr). With service from New York City's Penn Station, the LIRR is the main mode of transportation for commuters as well as Manhattanites weekending in the Hamptons. Since seating is normally unreserved, trains are often standing-room-only during the summer vacation season. Hamptons Reserve Service (tel. 718/558-8070) guarantees passengers a seat on the Friday express train for an extra fee in addition to the regular fare.

Metro-North Railroad (tel. 800/METRO-INFO or 212/532-4900; www.mta.nyc.ny.us/mnr/index.html) makes the Hudson Valley region easily reachable from New York City's Grand Central Station with commuter lines extending as far north as Poughkeepsie and Wassaic, and west to Port Jervis.

International visitors can buy a USA Rail Pass, good for 5, 15, or 30 days of unlimited travel on Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL; www.amtrak.com). The pass is available online or through many overseas travel agents. See Amtrak's website for the cost of travel within the western, eastern, or northwestern United States. Reservations are generally required and should be made as early as possible. Regional rail passes are also available.

By Bus

Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222; www.greyhound.com) is the sole nationwide bus line. International visitors can obtain information about the Greyhound North American Discovery Pass. The pass, which offers unlimited travel and stopovers in the U.S. and Canada, can be obtained from foreign travel agents or through www.discoverypass.com.

Regions in Brief

New York City -- Residents in the surrounding areas of New York, New Jersey, and Connecticut refer to it simply as "the City," as if there were no other. The city comprises about 300 square miles divided into five boroughs -- the Bronx, Brooklyn, Manhattan, Queens, and Staten Island. Best known for world-class museums, Broadway theater, Madison Avenue shopping, five-star cuisine, and glamorous nightlife, it's also a great place for more low-key adventures, like grabbing a hot dog at Yankee Stadium or spending a sunny afternoon in Central Park.

Long Island & the Hamptons -- At 188 miles, "long" is an accurate description of the island situated to the east of Manhattan, dividing the waters of the Long Island Sound from the Atlantic Ocean. As you may have guessed, the sea is the dominant theme here -- charming ports, sandy beaches, and fresh seafood abound. Surprisingly, it's also an agricultural area that supports numerous farms and vineyards. The north shore, or "Gold Coast," is strewn with mansions that once belonged to Astors and Vanderbilts, now transformed into museums open to the public.

The Hudson River Valley -- The stunning landscape along the 100-mile stretch of the Hudson River from Albany to New York City has been immortalized on canvas by the painters of the Hudson River School and on paper in classics such as The Legend of Sleepy Hollow and Rip Van Winkle. The Appalachian Trail cuts through the valley, offering hikers an up-close view of the river and wilderness. Antiquing is a favorite pastime here, as is touring the grand historic estates built by America's great industrialists.

The Catskill Mountain Region -- The Catskill Park and Forest Preserve lies in the heart of the Catskill Mountains, about 100 miles to the northwest of New York City. Nature lovers can explore 300 miles of trails up and down mountain peaks and amid unspoiled forests, lakes, and rivers. The Borscht Belt image of yesteryear is subsiding as more sophisticated ventures take root.

The Capitol Region: Saratoga Springs & Albany -- Albany's impressive architecture reflects its status as the state's capital since 1797. Saratoga Springs, about 20 miles north of Albany, is named for the natural mineral waters that have drawn visitors to the town's spas and baths since the 1800s. It's also home to the Saratoga Race Course, the oldest thoroughbred racetrack in the U.S.

Central New York -- Just west of the Finger Lakes, this largely rural area is legendary among sports fans for the National Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum in Cooperstown.

The Finger Lakes Region -- Bounded by Lake Ontario to the north and the Pennsylvania border to the south, the aptly named Finger Lakes region has 11 long, slender lakes plus rivers, streams, waterfalls, and smaller bodies of water. The lakes offer lots of water-related fun, from swimming to kayaking to fishing. Finger Lakes wine is another big attraction here; more than 70 wineries are located around Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca, and Cayuga lakes.

The North Country -- Massive Adirondack Park, full of lakes, hiking trails, and rustic "camps," accounts for the majority of land in New York State north of I-90. At 6.1 million acres, the park is almost the size of the neighboring state of Vermont.

Western New York -- On its journey from Lake Ontario to Lake Erie, the Niagara River pours between 50,000 and 100,000 cubic feet of water per second over spectacular Niagara Falls. Buffalo -- the second-largest city in New York State and a good bet for restaurants and nightlife -- is just a 30-minute drive from the falls.

Special-Interest Vacations

Academic & Educational Trips

Although it's difficult not to learn a little something while visiting New York City, Smithsonian Journeys (tel. 877/338-8687 or 800/528-8147; www.smithsonianjourneys.org) will make sure you do, with tours that include visits to "green" architectural landmarks, art collections, and artist studios; there are also art-themed cruises along the Hudson River and trips focusing on the performing arts and Broadway theater educational trips. History and architecture buffs should check out the trips offered by National Trust for Historic Preservation Tours (tel. 800/944-6847; www.preservationnation.org), which include Hudson River Valley fall foliage cruises (with visits to Revolutionary War Sites, historic estates along the Hudson, and immersion into the Hudson Valley School of Painting); and a trip focusing on "Architectural Preservation in New York City." Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) offers a plethora of New York educational trips, ranging from historic Hudson Valley arts and mansions to Jewish history and humor, and explorations of rural 19th-century frontier living. Their roster includes nearly 100 trips large and small to New York City and across the state. Students interested in group trips sans parental units can explore New York City while learning about its history, architecture, and culture with Educational Tours, Inc. (tel. 800/962-0060; www.educationaltours.com/Destinations/New-York-City).

Food & Wine Trips

Food and wine lovers will have their hands (and mouths) full on a trip to New York. You can enhance the experience with an organized tour that either takes in a city neighborhood's eats or plunges into the food and wine of New York State. City Food Tours (tel. 212/535-TOUR; www.cityfoodtours.com/new-york-food-tours.cfm) offers guided walking tasting tours, ethnic eats trips, and more, while Foods of New York (tel. 800/434-7554; www.foodsofny.com) organizes walking-and-eating tours of Chinatown, Greenwich Village and SoHo, Chelsea Market and the Meatpacking District, and visits to iconic food shops -- as well as 3-night packages that take in all of the above. Elderhostel features longer trips around the state; options include: "Wine, Wineries, and the Culinary Institute of America," "Finger Lakes Wine and Geology," "Hudson River Valley/Catskills Food and Wine," and "Tastes of the City: New York's Food Culture." If you're interested in the North Fork of Long Island's burgeoning food and wine scene, which has grabbed a lot of wine writers' attention, and you want to learn more about becoming a oenophile, check out Wine Camp (tel. 631/495-9744; www.winecamp.org), which puts on 4-day immersion camps, teaching campers to taste wine like an expert and pair foods with wines (it's hardly drudgery; for homework you'll visit wineries and lunch at vineyards). Foodies should also check out New York State's Tourism Website (www.iloveny.com/TravelIdeas/VineandDine.aspx) for "Vine & Dine" ideas for food- and wine-oriented trips and events throughout the state, including food festivals and wine trails.

Volunteer & Working Trips

The concept of "Voluntourism" has taken off on international trips, and increasingly there are options to do good at home while on vacation. Earthwatch Institute (800/776-0188; www.earthwatch.org), which has plenty of options abroad, offers volunteer programs for urban ecosystem research and protecting the environment in and around New York City and the Hudson River. A truly unique idea in volunteer trips is Go Sprout (tel. 212/222-9575; www.gosprout.org), which brings in volunteers to help adults with developmental disabilities such as autism, Asperger syndrome, and mild retardation to have their own vacations. Since 1979, volunteers have led small groups on one- to eight-day trips in New York City, the area around New Paltz (Catskill Mountain region), and Niagara Falls.

Wellness Trips

Yoga, spiritual, and wellness retreats have found a niche in upstate New York, particularly in the Hudson River Valley and rural Catskill Mountain Region. The highly regarded Omega Institute for Holistic Studies, 150 Lake Dr., Rhinebeck (tel. 877/944-2002; www.eomega.org), has a massive campus on 185 acres. Among their weekend and week-long wellness programs are "Rest and Rejuvenation Retreats," featuring meditation, yoga, tai chi, and other classes. New Age Health Spa, 658 Rte. 55, Neversink (tel. 800/682-4348; www.newagehealthspa.com) on 280 acres in Sullivan County, is a relaxed, all-inclusive destination spa at the edge of the Catskills State Forest Preserve. It features a 10,000-square-foot yoga and meditation center and a full menu of yoga, meditation, spa treatments, and week and mini-week schedules. Karma Triyana Dharmachakra Tibetan Buddhist Monastery, 335 Meads Mountain Rd., Woodstock (tel. 845/679-5906; www.kagyu.org), offers Buddhist teaching, practice and meditation retreats, including accommodations at the guesthouse, and vegetarian meals. Other upstate monasteries and ashrams offering stress-relieving meditation, Zen studies, fasting, and yoga retreats/vacations (as well as largely spartan, dorm-style accommodations) include: Vivekananda Retreat, Ridgely, Leggett Road, Stone Ridge (tel. 845/687-4574; www.ridgely.org); Zen Mountain Monastery, Plank Road, Mount Tremper (tel. 845/688-2228; www.mro.org); Sivananda Ashram Yoga Ranch, Budd Road, Woodbourne (tel. 845/436-6492; www.sivananda.org/ranch/); Dai Bosatsu Zendo, 223 Beecher Lake Rd., Livingston Manor (tel. 845/439-4566; www.daibosatsu.org); Blue Cliff Monastery, 3 Mindfulness Rd., Pine Bush (tel. 845/733-4959; www.bluecliffmonastery.org); Ananda Ashram, 13 Sapphire Rd., Monroe (tel. 845/782-5575; www.anandaashram.org); and Zen Center of Syracuse Hoen-Ji, 266 W. Seneca Tpk., Syracuse (tel. 315/492-9773; www.zencenterofsyracuse.org).

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Most escorted tours focus on short visits in New York City. GOGO Worldwide Vacations (www.gogoworldwidevacations.com) organizes short-term (generally 3-night) junkets to New York City and Niagara Falls, all offered through travel agents. All New York Tours (tel. 702/233-1627; www.allnewyorktours.com) has a slew of short, themed tours (including helicopter tours and movie, TV, and music tours) in New York City, while Get America Tours (tel. 800/594-0025; www.getamericatours.com) offers escorted minitours to New York City and Niagara Falls, including the latter's Festival of Lights in December. Crosby Tours (tel. 718/349-9600; www.crosbytours.com) does a 3-day "Best of New York State" tour (which is at the very least an idiosyncratic take on that superlative and may be best for New Yorkers wanting to see more of their state), traveling to Howe Caverns, the Thousand Islands, and finally, the Great New York State Fair.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

New York City -- where the gay liberation movement got its beginning with the Stonewall riot in Greenwich Village in 1969 -- today is home to a gay, lesbian, bisexual, and transgender community of more than a million strong by some estimates. The highlight of the events calendar is the annual Pride Week, but visitors year-round have plenty to explore in the many gay-owned restaurants, bars, boutiques, bookstores, and art galleries found largely in Manhattan's Greenwich Village and Chelsea neighborhoods. The central bulletin board for meetings, cultural events, and resources in New York City is The Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, and Transgender Community Center (tel. 212/620-7310; www.gaycenter.org).

There's more to gay and lesbian life in the Empire State than cruising Chelsea and the Village. Travelers will find thriving networks in upstate, central, and western New York. Outcome Buffalo (www.outcomebuffalo.com), GayBuffalo Online (www.gaybuffalo.org/nfgc), Gay Rochester Online (www.gayrochester.com), and Capital District Gay and Lesbian Community Council, Inc. (tel. 518/462-6138; www.cdglcc.org) are great sources of information about nightlife, social groups, news, and links to other gay and lesbian organizations. Sullivan County in the Catskill Mountain region is proudly gay-friendly in tourist matters, and it operates a website with plenty of information for gay and lesbian travelers (tel. 845-747-4449; www.outinthecatskills.com).

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) (tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U. S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the Western Hemisphere will need to present government-issued proof of citizenship, such as a birth certificate, along with a government issued photo ID, such as a driver's license. A passport is not required for U.S. or Canadian citizens entering by land or sea, but it is highly encouraged to carry one.

See www.frommers.com/planning for information on how to obtain a passport. For other information, please contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries (at press time) to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas; they will need to show passports and proof of residence, however. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. (You can identify an e-Passport by the symbol on the bottom center cover of your passport.) If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if it is a valid passport issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone, or between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to www.travel.state.gov/visa.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the United States, and (2) a tourist visa, which may be obtained without charge from any U.S. consulate.

As of January 2004, many international visitors traveling on visas to the United States will be photographed and fingerprinted on arrival at Customs in airports and on cruise ships in a program created by the Department of Homeland Security called US-VISIT. Exempt from the extra scrutiny are visitors entering by land or those (mostly in Europe) who don't require a visa for short-term visits. For more information, go to the Homeland Security website at www.dhs.gov/dhspublic.

For information about U.S. Visas go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "Visas." Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600) or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://usembassy-australia.state.gov/consular.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 0891/200-290) or by visiting the "Visas to the U.S." section of the American Embassy London's website at www.usembassy.org.uk.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the Embassy of the USA Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Dublin 4, Ireland (tel. 353/1-668-8777; or by checking the "Visas to the U.S." section of the website at http://dublin.usembassy.gov.

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/472-2068), or get the information directly from the website at http://wellington.usembassy.gov.

Customs

What You Can Bring Into the U.S. -- Every visitor more than 21 years of age may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 liter of wine or hard liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring into the country almost any meat products (including canned, fresh, and dried meat products such as bouillon, soup mixes, and so on). Generally, condiments including vinegars, oils, spices, coffee, tea, and some cheeses and baked goods are permitted. Avoid rice products, as rice can often harbor insects. Bringing fruits and vegetables is not advised, though not prohibited. Customs will allow produce depending on where you got it and where you're going after you arrive in the U.S. International visitors may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.customs.gov).

What You Can Take Home from New York: -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior when you make your travel reservations. Although all of the major U.S. airlines except America West have canceled their senior discount and coupon book programs, many hotels still offer discounts for seniors. In most cities, people over the age of 60 qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, and other attractions, as well as discounted fares on public transportation.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

The U.S. National Park Service offers an America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Senior Pass (formerly the Golden Age Passport), which gives seniors 62 years or older lifetime entrance to all properties administered by the National Park Service -- national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges -- for a one-time processing fee of $10. The pass must be purchased in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. Besides free entry, the America the Beautiful Senior Pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov or call tel. 888/467-2757.

Tips for Families

New York's varied cultural landscape offers plenty of opportunities for family fun. You can pack up the minivan for a Brady Bunch-style camping trip through the wilderness, visit the National Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum in quaint Cooperstown, sail down the Hudson River, or take in a Broadway show amid the bright lights of Manhattan's now-family-friendly Times Square.

A good source for family vacation suggestions is the I Love NY website (www.iloveny.com) -- click on "Travel Ideas" and "Family Fun." New York City's official tourism website, NYC & Company (www.nycvisit.com), details restaurants, museums, and tours designed to fascinate kids, plus a list of activities and neighborhoods that even the most blasé teen might enjoy.

Familyhostel (tel. 800/733-9753) takes the whole family, including kids ages 8 to 15, on moderately priced domestic and international learning vacations. Lectures, field trips, and sightseeing are guided by a team of academics.

Health & Insurance

Staying Healthy

For the latest information about health issues affecting travelers, visit the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's travel page at www.cdc.gov/travel or call the Travelers' Health Hotline at tel. 877/FYI-TRIP. The New York State Department of Health website (www.health.state.ny.us) is geared toward residents rather than visitors, but provides more specifics about issues concerning New York.

General Availability of Health Care -- There's no shortage of doctors, hospitals, and pharmacies in New York. But it's true that cities have more facilities than rural areas. The New York State Department of Health provides a list of hospitals by county at www.health.state.ny.us/nysdoh/hospital/main.htm.

Pharmacy chains like Rite Aid (www.riteaid.com), CVS (www.cvs.com), and Walgreens (www.walgreens.com) are easy to find should you need to fill or refill a prescription. Bring your doctor's telephone number with you so that the pharmacist can confirm the prescription with your doctor's office. It's also helpful to have the number of your home pharmacy on hand in case your doctor can't be reached.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, Travel Health Online, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Common Ailments

Bugs, Bites -- Mosquitoes are a familiar annoyance, particularly in late summer and early fall when New York's mosquito population peaks. They were upgraded from pest to public health issue, however, when the first U.S. case of the mosquito-borne West Nile virus was reported in New York City back in 1999. The virus can lead to a flulike bout of West Nile fever, or more serious diseases such as West Nile encephalitis or meningitis. Even if you get a few bites, though, the risk of illness is low. Not all mosquitoes carry the virus, and most people who are infected never become sick, although people over 50 are more susceptible. Symptoms include fever, headache, stiff neck, body ache, muscle weakness or tremors, and disorientation. If you think you've been infected, see a doctor right away or go to the emergency room.

The best defense is an effective bug repellent worn whenever you're in a mosquito-friendly environment -- this includes warm and wet urban areas as well as forests and fields. They can bite right through lightweight fabrics, so it's smart to give clothes a spritz, too. If possible, stay inside when mosquitoes are busiest: dawn, dusk, and early evening.

Ticks are common in the Northeast. They stay close to the ground and prefer damp, shady grass and stone walls. Lyme disease is carried by deer ticks, which are 2 millimeters or less in size (smaller than dog ticks or cattle ticks). If you've been bitten by a tick, there's no reason to assume you've contracted the disease. Not all ticks are carriers, and removing the offender within the first 36 hours usually prevents transmission of the harmful bacteria. Seek medical aid if symptoms develop, such as the trademark "bull's-eye" bruise or red rash that grows outward from the area of the bite, or other signs like joint pain, fever, fatigue, or facial paralysis. If left unchecked, Lyme disease can lead to serious complications affecting the heart or nervous system.

Other Wildlife Concerns -- New York's national and state parks are great places to glimpse wild creatures. This can be exciting; but remember that wild animals are unpredictable, and it's wise not to get too close.

Raccoons, foxes, skunks, and bats are the most likely to spread rabies. The virus can be transmitted through the bite or scratch of an infected animal, or by contact with the animal's saliva or nervous tissue through an unhealed cut. This means it's unsafe to poke around dead carcasses as well. If contact occurs, wash the wound thoroughly with soap and water and report to a doctor or hospital for treatment. Let a park ranger or other official know so the animal can be captured and tested for the disease.

Black bears are indigenous to the Adirondack, Catskill, and Allegheny mountains. Although they're naturally inclined to avoid humans, they'll often raid campsites in search of food. Tuck food away and clean up campsites after meals to keep them from sniffing around. Never feed or leave food for a bear. And never approach a baby bear. The mother bear is usually not far away and may perceive you as a threat to the cub. A useful source for black-bear safety tips is the Citizens for Responsible Wildlife Management website at www.responsiblewildlifemanagement.org/bear_safety.htm.

Deer are frequently sighted in upstate New York -- often crossing the road in front of your car. Hitting a deer can be an awful experience. Besides feeling as if you've just killed Bambi, you could also sustain major damage to your vehicle or yourself in the accident. Warning signs are posted at well-known deer crossings, but keep your eyes peeled in any wilderness area, especially during breeding season (Oct-Dec).

Extreme Weather Exposure -- It's not typically cold enough in New York for frostbite to take hold during normal activities like sightseeing. But if you plan to spend all day on the slopes or take long winter hikes, dress appropriately and warm up indoors periodically. This is especially important for kids -- they lose heat faster than adults and may not notice the cold if they're having fun. In summer, high temperatures and humidity combined with too much exercise can provoke heat illness. Stop and rest in the shade when you feel too hot, tired, or dehydrated, and always carry water with you.

What To Do If You Get Sick Away From Home

Except in the most rural areas, such as the Adirondack Mountains, you should have no trouble finding a doctor or getting prescriptions filled. Without proof of insurance, you pay as a walk-in in a hospital emergency room.

Safety

The crime rate in New York State has been steadily dropping for the past decade or more. New York City, once famous for muggings, is now -- improbably, some might say -- considered one of the safest large cities in the country. That said, it's never a good idea to take your safety for granted.

First and foremost, know where you're going. If you look lost or distracted, you may seem like an easy mark. Ask for directions at the front desk before leaving your hotel, and try not to be obvious about checking maps on the street. Be wary of strangers who offer to act as guides. They may expect you to tip them, or they may try to lead you to a secluded place where they can rob you. Try not to use the subway to get around late at night; opt for the bus or a taxi instead.

Keep on the lookout for thieves and pickpockets. Common tactics include bumping into you, accompanying you through a revolving door, or spilling something on your clothes to distract you. When withdrawing money from an ATM at a bank after hours, note who enters the foyer with you or who is already inside. If it doesn't seem safe, find another ATM.

At the hotel, keep the door locked and use the bolt when you're inside the room. Before you answer the door, make sure you know who it is. If it's an unexpected visit from room service or maintenance, don't be embarrassed to call the front desk to make sure it's legitimate. Remember that the staff has passkeys, and your room is frequently opened when you're not there. Use the in-room safe for cash, traveler's checks, and valuables like your jewelry or your laptop. If there's no safe in your room, inquire about using the hotel safe.

Since the September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks, counteracting terrorism in New York has been a major concern. The police urge everyone to report unattended bags or suspicious-looking packages through the Statewide Public Security Tips Hotline at tel. 866/SAFE-NYS, or 888/NYC-SAFE in New York City.

Getting There

By Plane

With flights from across the country and around the world converging in New York City, many visitors to New York State may find it convenient to arrive in New York City first and move on from there.

The Port Authority of New York and New Jersey operates three major airports in the New York City area: John F. Kennedy International Airport (JFK), LaGuardia Airport (LGA), and Newark-Liberty International Airport (EWR). Together they're served by most major domestic airlines.

However, arriving in New York City isn't the only option. For those traveling elsewhere in the state, several of the airlines listed above offer direct or connecting flights to Albany (ALB), Buffalo (BUF), Islip (ISP), Rochester (ROC), Syracuse (SYR), Ithaca (ITH), and 10 other cities. US Airways covers more New York destinations than any other carrier. AirTran Airways, American Airlines, Continental, Delta, jetBlue Airways, Northwest, and United also offer service to many of these cities, as do Air Canada and Southwest.

By Car

Drivers approaching from the west or east can take I-90, a toll road that crosses the country from Seattle to Boston and runs straight through New York, connecting Buffalo, Rochester, Syracuse, Utica, Schenectady, and Albany. Route 17 (I-86 in western New York) roughly follows the state's southern border through Jamestown, Olean, Corning, Elmira, and Binghamton, then heads southwest into the Catskills and Orange County.

I-95 connects major cities along the East Coast from Florida to Maine, including New York City. I-87 runs north to south, from New York City to Newburgh, Kingston, Albany, Saratoga Springs, and Plattsburgh; it then crosses into Canada where the road extends to Montreal.

Travelers from the south can also use I-81, which enters the state near Binghamton and continues north to Cortland, Syracuse, and Watertown. I-88 links Binghamton and Schenectady. I-390 provides a route between I-90 and NY Route 17 in the Finger Lakes region.

There is a toll on the New York State Thruway, which is I-90 from western New York to Albany and I-87 from Albany to New York City. The New York State Thruway Authority hot line dispenses recorded updates on road conditions; dial tel. 800/THRUWAY, or check the website for construction schedules at www.thruway.state.ny.us.

The American Automobile Association (tel. 800/836-2582; www.aaa.com) will help members find the best routes to their destinations and provide free customized maps. AAA also offers emergency roadside assistance; members can call tel. 800/AAA-HELP.

Another great way to plan your route is on MapQuest (www.mapquest.com) or Google maps (www.google.com). Simply type in your start and end points and receive full step-by-step directions to your destination. A free state map is also available from the New York State Division of Tourism. See "Visitor Information" in "Fast Facts" in this chapter.

All the major rental-car companies operate in New York State, including Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz, National, and Thrifty. It's worth noting that the only companies located at Kennedy, LaGuardia, and Newark airports are Avis, Budget, Dollar, Hertz, and National. Enterprise is also available at LaGuardia and Newark, but not at Kennedy.

When you're renting a car, there is always some kind of deal to be found -- check company websites or ask reservations agents about specials before you rent. If you're a member of AAA, AARP, or another organization, find out if you qualify for a discount.

International visitors should note that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental car rates in the U.S. Be sure to ask your rental agency about additional fees for these. They can add a significant cost to your car rental.

By Train

Rail travel can be less cramped than airline flights and affords some amazing views of the American landscape. Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL; www.amtrak.com) connects New York with many American cities from coast to coast, and a handful of Canadian cities, too. However, a cross-country trip can last for days (Los Angeles to NYC is about 70 hr.) and requires one or more connections. Unfortunately, despite the extended travel time, there isn't much savings here; train reservations cost almost as much as air travel, and sometimes more.

Three main Amtrak routes cross New York State, connecting major metropolitan areas and the towns along the way. Several trains, including Metroliner shuttle service and high-speed Acela Express trains, travel the Northeast Corridor from Washington, D.C., to Philadelphia, New York City, and Boston. Empire Service runs north from New York City to Albany, then west to Syracuse, Rochester, Buffalo, and Niagara Falls; the Maple Leaf runs daily, extending the same route through Toronto, Canada. The Adirondack travels the Hudson River Valley north to Albany (making stops in Yonkers, Croton-on-Hudson, Poughkeepsie, Rhinecliff, and Hudson), then follows along Lake Champlain to Plattsburgh and finally Montreal, Canada.

Check the website for Internet-only deals or ask your phone representative about regional and seasonal promotions before you reserve tickets. Seniors automatically receive 15% off regular fares, and membership discount programs are available to veterans and students. Families should note that for each adult ticket purchased, two kids under 15 may ride for half-price, and one child under 2 comes along for free.

Amtrak Vacations (tel. 877/YES-RAIL; www.amtrak.com) can put together a complete travel package including train, hotel, car rental, and sightseeing. Through a partnership with United Airlines, Amtrak has created the Air Rail program, which allows travelers to explore destinations at leisure by rail, then make a speedy return home by plane.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Nature Valley World Cup Freestyle, Lake Placid. The world's best aerial skiers take off and fly, tucking and spinning their way to a championship. You'll see mogul action, too, as the athletes' skis zigzag among the mounds of snow. Call tel. 518/523-2202 or visit www.orda.org. Mid-January.

February

Chinese New Year, New York City. Every year, Chinatown rings in its own new year (based on a lunar calendar) with 2 weeks of celebrations, including parades with dragon and lion dancers, plus vivid costumes of all kinds. Call tel. 212/484-1222 or contact the Asian American Business Development Center at tel. 212/966-0100 or visit www.aabdc.com. Around February 14, 2010.

Olmsted Winterfest, Buffalo. Delaware Park becomes a magnet for fun seekers, with sledding, skating, snowmobiling, softball, ice sculpting, a chili cook-off, and races taking place all over the park. There's a Friday Fish Fry, naturally, as well as fireworks. Call tel. 716/838-1249 or visit www.buffaloolmstedparks.org. Four days in mid-February.

Empire State Winter Games, Lake Placid. The games for New York State's premier amateur athletes. Call tel. 518/523-1655 or visit www.empirestategames.org/winter. February 19-21, 2010.

March

St. Patrick's Day Parade, New York City. More than 150,000 marchers join in the world's largest civilian parade, as Fifth Avenue from 44th to 86th streets rings with the sounds of bands and bagpipes. The parade usually starts at 11am, but go extra early if you want a good spot. Irish bars throughout the city throb with revelers. Call tel. 212/484-1222 or visit nyc-st-patrick-day-parade.org. March 17.

April

Easter Parade, New York City. No marching bands, no baton twirlers, no protesters. It's more about flamboyant exhibitionism, with hats and costumes that get more outrageous every year -- and anybody can join right in for free. It's along Fifth Avenue from 48th to 57th streets on Easter Sunday, from about 10am to 3 or 4pm. Call tel. 212/484-1222.

May

Lilac Festival, Rochester. More than 1,000 lilac trees in Highland Park, with dozens of varieties of fragrant lilacs in full bloom, are the excuse for a big civic party. There is music and food, but the highlight is easily the lilacs. Call tel. 585/256-4960 or visit www.lilacfestival.com. Mid-May (May 14-23, 2010).

Bike New York: TD Bank Five Borough Bike Tour, New York City. The largest mass-participation cycling event in the United States attracts about 30,000 cyclists from all over the world. Call tel. 212/932-BIKE (2453) or visit www.bikenewyork.org to register. First Sunday in May.

Tulip Festival, Albany. For more than 50 years, Albany has celebrated its Dutch heritage with this colorful festival, where, in addition to thousands of beautiful tulips in Washington Park, there are plenty of food, entertainment, and crafts -- not to mention the annual crowning of the tulip queen! Call tel. 518/434-2032 or visit www.albanyevents.org. First or second week of May (May 7-9, 2010).

Falls Fireworks & Concert Series, Niagara Falls, Ontario. Every Friday and Sunday, you can enjoy free concerts by the falls at 8pm, followed by a fireworks show at 10pm, which bathes the falls in color. Call tel. 877/642-7275 or visit www.niagaraparks.com. Mid-May through mid-September.

Fleet Week, New York City. About 10,000 U.S. Navy and Coast Guard personnel are "at liberty" in New York for the annual Fleet Week, an event immortalized on Sex and the City. Usually from 1 to 4pm daily, you can watch the ships and aircraft carriers as they dock at the piers on the west side of Manhattan, tour them with on-duty personnel, and watch some dramatic exhibitions by the U.S. Marines. Call tel. 212/484-1222 or visit www.fleetweek.com. Late May.

June

Annual Hall of Fame Game, Cooperstown. The day begins with a lecture by Hall of Famers and moves into a game between pro teams. There's a home run contest, and, of course, lots of hot dog eating. Call tel. 888/HALL-OF-FAME or visit www.baseballhalloffame.org. Early June.

Belmont Stakes, Elmont (Long Island). The third jewel in the Triple Crown is held at the Belmont Park Race Track. If a Triple Crown winner is to be named, it will happen here. For information, call tel. 516/488-6000 or visit www.belmont-stakes.info. Early June.

Shakespeare in the Park, New York City. The Delacorte Theater in Central Park is the setting for first-rate free performances (often with marquee actors, such as Meryl Streep or Anne Hathaway) under the stars -- including at least one Shakespeare production. Call tel. 212/539-8500 or point your browser to www.publictheater.org. Early June to early September.

Caramoor International Music Festival, Katonah (Hudson River Valley). This idiosyncratic house-museum and performing arts center hosts one of the state's best music festivals, with a full slate of summer outdoor chamber and symphonic music concerts. Call tel. 914/232-1252 or visit www.caramoor.com. Late June through early August.

Hudson Valley Shakespeare Festival, Garrison (Hudson River Valley). On the gorgeous grounds of Boscobel Restoration, one of the prettiest spots along the Hudson, the summer theater performance of Shakespeare seems suitably grand, and perfect for a summer's eve picnic. Call tel. 845/265-7858 (845/265-9575 for tickets) or visit hvshakespeare.org. Mid-June to early September.

Shakespeare in Delaware Park, Buffalo. Free Shakespeare under the stars has been a Buffalo tradition for almost 30 years. Call tel. 716/856-4533 or visit www.shakespeareindelawarepark.org. Mid-June to mid-August.

Chautauqua season opens, Chautauqua Institution. This arts camp in western New York is one of the most prestigious in the nation. Its extensive grounds, right on the shores of Chautauqua Lake, play host to all manner of arts classes, lectures, and performances. Call tel. 716/357-6200 or go to www.ciweb.org. Late-June to end of August.

Museum Mile Festival, New York City. For New York City's "Biggest Block Party," Fifth Avenue from 82nd to 105th streets is closed to cars from 6 to 9pm as 20,000-plus strollers enjoy live music, street entertainers, and free admission to nine Museum Mile institutions, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Guggenheim. Call tel. 212/606-2296 or visit www.museummilefestival.org. Second Tuesday in June.

Lesbian and Gay Pride Week and March, New York City. A week of cheerful happenings, from simple parties to major political fundraisers, precedes a zany parade commemorating the Stonewall Riots of June 27, 1969, which for many marked the beginning of the gay liberation movement. Call tel. 212/807-7433 or visit www.nycpride.org/march. Late June.

Lake Placid Horse Show, Lake Placid. Watch horses take to the air in this prestigious horse show set against the gorgeous Adirondacks. Call tel. 518/523-9625 or visit www.lakeplacidhorseshow.com. Late June to early July.

July

Glimmerglass Opera, Cooperstown. Central New York's famous opera gears up for another impressive season. Call tel. 607/547-2255 or go to www.glimmerglass.org. Mid-July through end of August.

Hill Cumorah Pageant, Palmyra (Finger Lakes region). Near the site where the Mormon religion was founded, the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints puts on an amazing theatrical spectacle, in the tradition of Middle Ages pageants, with 700 actors. Call tel. 315/597-5851 or visit www.hillcumorah.org/pageant. First 2 weeks of July.

Macy's Fourth of July Fireworks Spectacular, New York City. Start the day amid the patriotic crowds at the Great July Fourth Festival in Lower Manhattan, and then catch Macy's great fireworks extravaganza (one of the country's most fantastic) over the East River or the Hudson River (after several years over the former, in 2009 the show lit up the sky over the Hudson, in honor of Henry Hudson's voyage 400 years earlier). Call tel. 212/484-1222, or Macy's Visitor Center at 212/494-4495 or visit www.ny.com/holiday/july4. July 4.

Hurley Stone House Tour, Hurley (Catskill region). Unlike New Paltz, where the ancient stone structures are open in season to visitors, Hurley's collection of two dozen stone houses, most privately owned, open only once a year for visits. Call tel. 845/331-4121 or visit www.stonehouseday.org. Mid-July (July 10, 2010).

Finger Lakes Wine Festival, Watkins Glen International Racetrack. The Finger Lakes is one of the country's great (but still up-and-coming) wine regions, and everybody gets together -- locals, visitors, and some five dozen or so wineries -- for tastings, crafts, food, and good spirits. It's anything but stuffy, though, as the annual toga party (or "Launch of the Lakes") attests. Call tel. 866/461-7223 or visit www.flwinefest.com. Usually the third weekend in July.

Windham Chamber Music Festival, Windham (Catskill region). Opera stars from the Metropolitan in New York City descend upon the Catskill Mountains for some high culture at a higher altitude. Call tel. 518/734-3868 or visit www.windhammusic.com. July through August.

Belleayre Music Festival, Highmount (Catskill region). The ski mountain of Belleayre races in summer with a wide-ranging mix of highbrow and popular music and entertainment, from classical and opera to folk and puppetry. Call tel. 942-6904, ext. 344, or visit www.belleayremusic.org. July through early September.

Annual Wine Country Classic Boat Show & Regatta, Hammondsport (Finger Lakes region). At the southern end of Keuka Lake, this antique- and classic-boat show features more than 100 boats, with judging, water parades, and demonstrations. On Sunday is the race regatta. Call tel. 585/526-6934. Third weekend in July.

Saratoga Summer Culture, Saratoga Springs. In July, the New York City Ballet makes its off-season home at the National Museum of Dance & Hall of Fame, and during the month of August, the Philadelphia Orchestra is in residence at the Saratoga Performing Arts Center (SPAC). Who would think that high culture could compete stride-for-stride with the horses over at the track for the big event of the summer? Call tel. 518/584-2225 or 518/584-9330, or visit www.saratoga.com. July and August.

Baseball Hall of Fame Induction Weekend, Cooperstown. Come see which legendary swingers will make it in this year. Call tel. 888/HALL-OF-FAME or visit www.baseballhalloffame.org. Late July.

Thoroughbred Horse Racing, Saratoga Springs (Capital region). At the famed Race Course, the oldest in the country, the race season lasts 6 weeks and turns the town upside down. Call tel. 518/584-6200 or visit www.nyra.com/index_saratoga.html. End of July through early September.

Bounty of the Hudson, Hudson Valley. A 2-day food and wine festival showcasing the best of the Hudson Valley, including cooking workshops and live music held at one of the local wineries. Tickets and more information at tel. 845/256-8456 or 888/241-0769 or www.shawangunkwinetrail.com. Last weekend in July.

August

Antique Boat Show & Auction, Clayton (Thousand Islands). It's the country's oldest antique boat show in the world -- you can even bid on a boat at the auction. Cruise the commercial marketplace and flea market, sit in on an educational forum, listen to music, and sample food. Lots of kids programs, too. Contact the Antique Boat Museum at tel. 315/686-4104 or visit www.abm.org. Early August.

Maverick Concert Series, Woodstock. America's oldest summer chamber music series, continual since 1916, is this agreeable version of "Music in the Woods." Call tel. 845/679-8217 or visit www.maverickconcerts.org. August through early September.

Harlem Week, New York City. The world's largest black and Hispanic cultural festival actually spans almost the whole month to include the Black Film Festival, the Harlem Jazz and Music Festival, and the Taste of Harlem Food Festival. Call tel. 212/484-1222. Throughout August.

NASCAR Sprint Cup Series at the Glen, Watkins Glen. Among legions of race fans, this huge event is unparalleled in the Northeast, and it draws NASCAR fans from across the state and region, filling up just about every bed in the Finger Lakes. Call tel. 607/535-2486 (for tickets, 866/461-RACE [7223]) or visit www.theglen.com. End of first week/beginning of second in August.

Toy Fest, East Aurora. The home of Fisher-Price toys (western NY) comes to life with a toy parade along Main Street, an antique toy show, rides, and other activities. Call tel. 716/687-5151 or visit www.toytownusa.com. Late August.

National Buffalo Wing Festival, Buffalo. This festival features many restaurants and sauces from Buffalo and around the country. Best wing and sauce competitions, wing-eating contests, and more. Call tel. 716/565-4141 or visit www.buffalowing.com. Late August/Labor Day weekend.

New York State Fair, Syracuse (Finger Lakes region). New York State's massive 12-day agricultural and entertainment fair, with all kinds of big-name music acts and tasty fair treats you'll ultimately be glad only come 'round once a year. Call tel. 800/475-FAIR or visit www.nysfair.org. Late August to early September.

U.S. Open Tennis Championships, New York City. The final Grand Slam event of the tennis season is held at the Arthur Ashe Stadium at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center, the largest public tennis center in the world, at Flushing Meadows Park in Queens. Tickets go on sale in May or early June, and the event sells out immediately. Call tel. 888/OPEN-TIX or 718/760-6200 well in advance; visit www.usopen.org or www.usta.com for additional information. Two weeks around Labor Day.

September

Turn-of-the-Century Day, Roxbury (Catskill region). Reliving the glory days of baseball and hoop skirts, the town of Roxbury sheds about 100 years and celebrates with a vintage "base ball" game, horse-drawn wagon rides, and period foods and costumes on the former estate of Helen Gould Shepard in this Labor Day tradition. Call tel. 607/326-3722 or visit www.roxburyny.com. Labor Day weekend.

West Indian-American Day Parade, New York City. This annual Brooklyn event is New York's largest and best street celebration. Come for the extravagant costumes, pulsating rhythms (soca, calypso, reggae), bright colors, folklore, food (jerk chicken, Caribbean soul food), and two million hip-shaking revelers. Call tel. 212/484-1222 or 718/625-1515. Labor Day.

Adirondack Balloon Festival, Glens Falls, Queensbury, and Lake George. Watch a rainbow of colors soar into the sky as 60-plus hot-air balloons lift off. Tons of activities surround this annual event. Call tel. 518/792-2600 or visit www.adirondackballoonfest.org. Mid-September.

Naples Grape Festival, Naples (Finger Lakes region). To celebrate the harvest of the grape in this grape-growing and wine-producing region, grape pie lives for a weekend in the tiny town of Naples. Connoisseurs rejoice, scarfing down as much pie as possible, and there are a "World's Greatest Grape Pie" contest and live entertainment. Call tel. 585/374-2240 or visit www.naplesgrapefest.org. End of September.

October

Legend Weekend at Sleepy Hollow and Philipsburg Manor, Tarrytown (Hudson River Valley). At Washington Irving's Sunnyside home, as well as up the road at Philipsburg Manor, the specter of the Headless Horseman returns for one last ride for Halloween. So as not to scare all concerned, there are also walks in the woods, storytelling, and puppet shows. Call tel. 914/631-8200 or visit www.hudsonvalley.org. Last week in October.

Halloween at Howe Caverns (near Utica). Come check out the underground scare-a-thon with pumpkin-decorating contests, scary stories, and a special kids' buffet. Call tel. 518/436-1103 or visit www.howecaverns.com. October 31.

Greenwich Village Halloween Parade, New York City. This is Halloween at its most outrageous. You may have heard Lou Reed singing about it on his classic album New York -- and he wasn't exaggerating. Drag queens and assorted other flamboyant types parade through the Village in wildly creative costumes. Call the Village Voice parade hot line at tel. 212/475-3333, ext. 14044, or go to www.halloween-nyc.com or halloween.villagevoice.com/parade.php for the exact route so you can watch -- or participate, if you have the threads and the imagination. October 31.

November

ING New York City Marathon, New York City. Some 30,000 hopefuls from around the world participate in the largest U.S. marathon, and more than a million fans cheer them on as they follow a route that touches on all five New York boroughs and finishes at Central Park. Call tel. 212/423-2249 or 212/860-4455, or visit www.nyrrc.org, where you can find an application to run. First Sunday in November.

Lights in the Park, Buffalo. Delaware Park is transformed into a colorful wonderland throughout the holidays, with animated lighting displays and a collection of holiday scenes. Call tel. 716/856-4533. Begins mid-November.

Winter Festival of Lights, Niagara Falls, Ontario. A visual lighting extravaganza featuring Disney's motion light displays in Queen Victoria Park. Call tel. 800/563-2557 or 905/374-1616 or visit www.wfol.com. November to early January.

Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade, New York City. The procession of huge hot-air balloons from Central Park West and 77th Street and down Broadway to Herald Square at 34th Street continues to be a national tradition. The night before, you can usually see the big balloons being blown up on Central Park West at 79th Street; call in advance to see if it will be open to the public again this year. Call tel. 212/484-1222 or the Macy's Visitor Center at 212/494-2922 or visit www.macys.com/campaign/parade/parade.jsp. Thanksgiving Day.

Christmas Traditions, New York City. Look for these holiday favorites: Radio City Music Hall's Christmas Spectacular (tel. 212/247-4777; www.radiocity.com); the New York City Ballet's staging of The Nutcracker (tel. 212/870-5570; www.nycballet.com); A Christmas Carol at the Theater at Madison Square Garden (tel. 212/465-6741; www.thegarden.com); and the National Chorale's singalong performances of Handel's Messiah at Avery Fisher Hall (tel. 212/875-5030; www.lincolncenter.org). Call for schedules. Late November through December.

Dickens Christmas, Skaneateles (Finger Lakes region). Sweet nostalgia takes over this quaint Finger Lakes town as costumed characters -- Father Christmas, Mother Goose, and Scrooge -- roam the streets. Locals go door-to-door caroling, and there are carriage rides and free roasted chestnuts. Call tel. 315/685-0552 or visit www.skaneateles.com. Last weekend in November to just before Christmas.

December

Great Estates Candlelight Christmas Tours, Hudson River Valley. Some of the grandest mansions lining the Hudson River -- Boscobel, Sunnyside, Van Cortlandt Manor, Lyndhurst, Olana, and others -- get all decked out for the holidays, with special candlelight house tours, caroling, bonfires, and hot cider. It's one of the best times to experience the pageantry and customs of another era. Throughout December. Visit www.hudsonvalley.org.

Holiday Trimmings, New York City. Stroll down festive Fifth Avenue and you'll see doormen dressed as wooden soldiers at FAO Schwarz, a 27-foot sparkling snowflake floating over the intersection outside Tiffany & Co., the Cartier building ribboned and bowed in red, wreaths warming the necks of the New York Public Library's lions, and fanciful figurines in the windows of Saks Fifth Avenue and Lord & Taylor. Madison Avenue between 55th and 60th streets is also a good bet; Sony Plaza usually displays something fabulous, as does Barneys New York. Throughout December.

New Year's Eve, New York City. The biggest party of them all happens in Times Square, where thousands of raucous revelers in unison count down the year's final seconds until the new lighted ball drops at midnight at 1 Times Square. Hate to be a party pooper, but this one, in the cold surrounded by thousands of very drunk revelers, is a masochist's delight. Call tel. 212/768-1560 or 212/484-1222. December 31.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Traveling "green," seeking sustainable tourism options, is a concern in almost every part of the world today. New York State, with its large expanses of nature upstate and the massive resources consumed in New York City, is no different. Although one could argue that any vacation that includes an airplane flight can't be truly "green," you can go on holiday and still contribute positively to the environment. All travelers can take certain steps toward responsible travel. Choose forward-looking companies that embrace responsible development practices, helping preserve destinations for the future by working alongside local people. An increasing number of sustainable tourism initiatives can help you plan a family trip and leave as small a "footprint" as possible on the places you visit.

You can find eco-friendly travel tips, statistics, and touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Conservation International (www.conservation.org) -- which, with National Geographic Traveler, annually presents World Legacy Awards to those travel tour operators, businesses, organizations, and places that have made a significant contribution to sustainable tourism. Ecotravel.com is part online magazine and part eco-directory that lets you search for touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on). Here are a few options for a sustainable trip in New York State:

The Omega Institute for Holistic Studies, 150 Lake Dr., Rhinebeck tel. 877/944-2002; www.eomega.org), offers yoga and meditation retreats and workshops and is committed to green living and sustainable initiatives. The Institute's pioneering Omega Center for Sustainable Living (OCSL), inaugurated in July 2009, is an education center and natural wastewater treatment facility, and a model of sustainable architecture: Omega has deluxe green cabins with organic bedding and linens, local sustainable building materials, low-flow shower heads and dual-button toilets, compact fluorescent lighting, and air-conditioning and heat offset by wind-powered energy.

The Apple Pond Farm and Renewable Energy Education Center (tel. 845/482-4674; www.applepondfarm.com), 80 Hahn Rd., Callicoon (southwestern Catskill region), is a horse-powered organic farm that produces its own renewable energy. It offers demonstrations of milking; goat-cheese-making classes; farming for kids; and seminars and workshops on wind, photovoltaic, solar thermal, geothermal, and microhydro systems renewable energy.

WWOOF, the "World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms" exchange program that facilitates opportunities to work on a farm and learn about organic farming practices and sustainable living, counts several farms in New York State among its participating members, including New York Natural Farming (North Fork of Long Island); Burdock Hollow Homestead & Rootwork Herbals (Finger Lakes); St. Francis Farm (near Lake Ontario); and Hudson Valley Fiber Farm (Hudson River Valley). In exchange for volunteer help, WWOOF hosts offer food, accommodations, and learning opportunities. For information visit www.wwoof.org and www.wwoofusa.org.

General Resources for Green Travel

The following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

Staying Connected

Generally, hotel surcharges on long-distance and local calls are astronomical, so you're better off using your cellphone or a public pay telephone. Many convenience stores, groceries, and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50; for international visitors these can be the least expensive way to call home. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa credit cards. Local calls made from pay phones in most locales cost either 35¢ or 50¢.

Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. For calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be very expensive -- usually a charge of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute, and they sometimes have minimum charges that can run as high as $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0, then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For local directory assistance ("information"), dial 411; for long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code and 555-1212.

Cellphones

Just because your cellphone works at home doesn't mean it will work everywhere in the U.S. (thanks to our nation's fragmented cellphone system). It's a good bet that your phone will work in major cities, but take a look at your wireless company's coverage map on its website before heading out; T-Mobile, Sprint, and Nextel are particularly weak in rural areas. If you need to stay in touch at a destination where you know your phone won't work, rent a phone that does from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or a rental-car location, but be aware that you'll pay $1 a minute or more for airtime.

If you're not from the U.S., you'll be appalled at the poor reach of our GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) wireless network, which is used by much of the rest of the world. Your phone will probably work in most major U.S. cities; it definitely won't work in many rural areas. To see where GSM phones work in the U.S., check out www.t-mobile.com/coverage/national_popup.asp. And you may or may not be able to send SMS (text messaging) home.

In New York City, you can rent cellphones at Roberts Rent-a-Phone, 226 E. 54th St., New York, NY 10022 (tel. 800/964-2468 or 212/832-7143; www.roberts-rent-a-phone.com) or Cellhire USA, 45 Broadway, 20th Floor, New York, NY 10006 (tel. 866/235-5447; www.cellhire.com).

Internet & E-Mail

To find cybercafes in your destination check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

Most major airports have Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices. Check out copy shops like Kinko's (FedEx Office), which offers computer stations with fully loaded software (as well as Wi-Fi).

More and more hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers are going Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity), becoming "hotspots" that offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. Wi-Fi is often found in campgrounds, RV parks, and even entire towns. Most laptops sold today have built-in wireless capability. To find public Wi-Fi hotspots at your destination, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels in the U.S. offer dataports for laptop modems, and a few thousand hotels in the U.S. and Europe now offer free high-speed Internet access.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- Several changes have been made to area-code dialing in New York over the past decade. New area codes have been added in western New York, Long Island, New York City, and the Hudson Valley/Catskill region, bringing the state total to 14. In addition, callers in New York City are now required to dial the area code for both local and long-distance calls (1 + the area code + the seven-digit local number) whether calling another borough or calling across the street. For a list of New York State area codes, consult the phone book or go to www.verizon.com.

Automobile Organizations -- Motor clubs will supply maps, suggested routes, guidebooks, accident and bail-bond insurance, and emergency road service. The American Automobile Association (AAA) is the major auto club in the United States. If you belong to a motor club in your home country, inquire about AAA reciprocity before you leave. You may be able to join AAA even if you're not a member of a reciprocal club; to inquire, call AAA (tel. 800/222-4357; www.aaa.com). AAA has a nationwide emergency road service telephone number (tel. 800/AAA-HELP).

Business Hours -- Business hours in New York State don't differ much from those of the rest of the country, and are generally 9am to 5pm, with one notable exception: It may be a tired cliché, but they don't call New York City "the city that never sleeps" for nothing. Although some stores close at 7pm, many are open until 9pm, and a few as late as 11pm. Most restaurants serve until 11pm, and later on weekends. Some diners serve breakfast all night to bar-crawlers and club kids, and 24-hour convenience stores on every other block sell an assortment of items you might need during the night, such as groceries, beer, ice cream, cigarettes, and cold remedies.

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. In general, grocery and convenience stores sell beer and other products that are less than 6% alcohol by volume (like wine coolers). Many of these stores are open 24 hours, but state law forbids them to sell alcohol from 3am to noon on Sunday. Wine and spirits are sold at liquor stores, also called package stores. Hours vary, but by law they must remain closed from midnight to 8am Monday through Saturday. Some stores may be open from noon to 9pm on Sunday, but many are closed. All liquor stores are closed Christmas Day.

Restaurants and bars can't serve drinks before 8am Monday through Saturday, or before noon on Sunday. Closing time for bars, taverns, and nightclubs varies by county. Albany, Buffalo, and New York City bars close at 4am; in Rochester and Syracuse they close at 2am. In quieter areas, closing time comes as early as 1am. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. And nothing will ruin your trip faster than getting a citation for DWI ("driving while intoxicated"), so don't even contemplate drinking and driving.

Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are located in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are located in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212) or check www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; usa.embassy.gov/au).

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; www.canadianembassy.org). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.irelandemb.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities. See website for complete listing.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-7800; www.britainusa.com). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle.

Emergencies -- Call tel. 911 to report a fire, call the police, or get an ambulance anywhere in the United States. This is a toll-free call. (No coins are required at public telephones.)

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Over the past two years in the U.S., the cost of gasoline (also known as gas, but never petrol) has fluctuated greatly, from less than $2 per gallon to more than $4.50 (at press time, the cost is just under $3 per gallon in most parts of the state). Gasoline in New York State is just above the national average, while filling the tank in New York City is about as expensive as you'll find in the country. Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons. Fill-up locations are known as gas or service stations.

Holidays -- Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents' Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans' Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2012).

Hotlines -- In New York City, the main hotline for all things metropolitan is tel. 311. For tourism matters and questions across the state, call tel. 800-CALL NYS. For issues of safety, call the Statewide Public Security Tips Hotline at tel. 866/SAFE-NYS, or 888/NYC-SAFE in New York City.

Insurance -- For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Internet Access -- Cybercafes and FedEx Offices (formerly Kinko's) are good places to go for Internet access in cities. To find a cybercafe, try www.cybercafe.com. New York's most rural areas, such as parts of the Catskill and Adirondack mountains and the North Country, are not well connected.

Legal Aid -- If you are "pulled over" for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. Here the burden is on the state to prove a person's guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. After being arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. International visitors should call your embassy or consulate. If you find yourself in need of legal representation, contact the New York State Bar Association's Lawyer Referral and Information Service (tel. 800/342-3661 or 518/487-5709; www.nysba.org).

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 28¢ for a postcard and 44¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 98¢ (75¢ to Canada and 79¢ to Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information go to www.usps.com.

If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, and so forth). Most post offices will hold your mail for up to 1 month and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9am to 3pm. Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don't know your zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The New York Times, New York Daily News, the Wall Street Journal, and USA Today are sold at newsstands everywhere in New York City and are generally available in hotels and corner newspaper boxes throughout the state. Major cities have their own daily papers. The largest of these are the Buffalo News, Rochester Democrat and Chronicle, Syracuse Post-Standard, and Albany Times Union. In Manhattan, magazine stores carrying all kinds of domestic and international publications are located in most neighborhoods. In other cities, bookstore chains such as Barnes & Noble carry a wide selection of magazines.

Police -- In nonemergency situations, call the nearest police station. Local police precinct telephone numbers can be found in the blue "government" pages of the phone book. In an emergency, call tel. 911, a toll-free call (no coins are required at public telephones).

Smoking -- The legal age to purchase cigarettes and other tobacco products in New York State is 18. But you won't find many places left to smoke them, aside from your hotel room. A state law passed in 2003 prohibits smoking in almost all public venues and in the workplace. This includes bars and restaurants, although smokers can still light up in cigar bars, designated outdoor areas of restaurants, and some private clubs. The law does not affect Native American-run casinos, and smoking is still permitted there.

Taxes -- Sales tax in New York State varies between 7.25% and 8.75% (the state tax is 4.25%, and counties generally tack on another 3% or 4%). On top of the sales tax, hotel occupancy taxes can add as much as 5% to hotel and motel bills; an additional 5% typically applies to car rentals as well.

Telephones -- Many convenience groceries and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50; for international visitors these can be the least expensive way to call home. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa credit cards. Local calls made from pay phones in most locales cost either 35¢ or 50¢. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. For calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be very expensive -- usually a charge of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute, and they sometimes have minimum charges that can run as high as $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For local directory assistance ("information"), dial 411; for long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code and 555-1212.

Time -- The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. New York State is located in Eastern Standard Time. So, for example, noon in New York City (EST) is 11am in Chicago (CST), 10am in Denver (MST), 9am in Los Angeles (PST), 8am in Anchorage (AST), 7am in Honolulu (HST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney. Daylight saving time is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

Tipping -- Tips are a very important part of certain workers' income, and gratuities are the standard way of showing appreciation for services provided. (Tipping is certainly not compulsory if the service is poor!) In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a disaster area for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff 15% to 20% of the check, tip bartenders 10% to 15%, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most areas of New York, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

New York City is consistently ranked among the top 15 most expensive cities in the world, and the most expensive in the U.S. Hotel costs in the city far outstrip those of pretty much anywhere else in the country. Thankfully, costs elsewhere in the state are closer to the national average, and even in New York City, there are deals to be found.

ATMs

Nationwide, the easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a "cash machine," or "cashpoint."

Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee is often higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee.

The State of New York Banking Department has compiled a comparison of bank fees by region at www.banking.state.ny.us/bf.htm. You can also use this chart to see if your own bank operates in the area you plan to visit.

Traveler's Checks

Though credit cards and debit cards are more often used throughout New York State, traveler's checks are still widely accepted. (However, where they are rarely seen, especially outside many larger cities, it may feel impractical to use them if it requires explaining to merchants how traveler's checks should be treated.) Foreign visitors should make sure that traveler's checks are denominated in U.S. dollars; foreign-currency checks are often difficult to exchange.

Visitor Information

Call or write the New York State Division of Tourism, P.O. Box 2603, Albany, NY 12220-0603 (tel. 800/CALL-NYS or 518/474-4116; www.iloveny.com), for a stack of free brochures, including the informative I Love New York Travel Guide, the Official NYC Guide, and pamphlets about seasonal events. They even throw in a free state map that's just as useful as any for which you'd pay $5 at the gas station. You can also download state and regional maps from its website. While on the road, you can pick up brochures at one of the state's information centers. Call the toll-free number above or check the I Love New York Travel Guide for the locations along your route. For regional tourist offices and websites, see the listings in destination chapters later in this book.

If you're planning a tour of the great outdoors, contact the New York State Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation, Albany, NY 12238 (tel. 518/474-0456, or 518/486-1899 for hearing- or speech-impaired callers; www.nysparks.state.ny.us), to request a free brochure, order admission passes, or find out about camping, hiking, and a host of other activities within the state's parks and historic sites. To reserve a campsite or other accommodations, book online or call tel. 800/456-2267.

Tips on Accommodations

New York offers a wide range of accommodations -- from the superchic (and super-expensive) luxury hotels of Manhattan and the Victorian B&Bs of Saratoga Springs to the rustic mountain retreats of the Catskills and Adirondacks and the salty seaside motels of Long Island.

The New York State Hospitality and Tourism Association (tel. 518/465-2300; www.nyshta.org) covers the gamut of hotel and motel options and provides a free map listing the names and basic rates of its members statewide.

The perfect bed-and-breakfast can be hard to track down since few are well known outside their local areas. The Empire State Bed & Breakfast Association (tel. 800/841-2340; www.esbba.com) makes the task easier with its free, color guide to 150 inns and B&Bs across the state. Another good bet is Bed & Breakfast Inns Online (www.bbonline.com), where you can view interior and exterior photos of almost every property profiled, including several listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The site offers last-minute, midweek, and seasonal specials besides a variety of other packages.

House swaps aren't for everyone -- clean freaks and people with control issues should probably skip this option. However, you may consider staying in a private home while the owners stay in yours to be a comfortable and cost-effective alternative to booking a hotel. HomeLink International (tel. 800/638-3841 or 813/975-9825; www.homelink.org) is an established house-swapping service. Apartment swaps in Manhattan, Brooklyn, and other New York City boroughs can be found through Craigslist.org. People over 50 may register their homes with Seniors Home Exchange (www.seniorshomeexchange.com).

When to Go

Since New York State is a four-season destination, the best time to visit depends on what you want to do.

Summer is peak season, accounting for about 40% of New York State tourism. From June to August, the weather is pleasant and mostly sunny, though it tends to be humid. Temperatures usually remain below 85°F (29°C), except in the vicinity of New York City and Long Island, which is about 10°F (6°C) warmer than the rest of the state year-round. Summer weather is ideal for travel; the problem is that everyone else thinks so, too. Parklands and campgrounds are filled with vacationers, especially on weekends. Cities throng with sightseers, making for long lines, sold-out events, and high prices.

Fall, from September to November, is another extremely popular time to visit. Upstate, the air turns to crisp jacket weather in September, but farther south summertime lingers until early October. New York's beautiful fall foliage is a huge draw, especially in mid-October -- the best time to catch trees sporting brilliant reds and golds. Expect country inns, B&Bs, and state and national parks to be particularly busy over Columbus Day weekend.

Contrary to popular belief, winter temperatures aren't miserable -- they normally range from about 15°F (-9°C) to as high as 40°F (4°C) in New York City. The snow, on the other hand, can be brutal. Infamous "lake-effect" snowstorms can dump several feet at once on Buffalo and surrounding towns, prompting Thruway and airport closings. Most of upstate New York is blanketed in snow from December to March. Although statistically winter is the slowest time for tourism in New York, it is high season for the state's ski destinations, and parks are still active with winter-sports lovers. New York City, which welcomes a steady flow of visitors all year long, is extra-jammed during the holidays thanks to Christmas festivities at Rockefeller Center, holiday shopping, and New Year's Eve in Times Square.

The spring thaw begins in March, but it's not unusual for snow to fall in April, or even May. There are spring showers, but the average amount of precipitation is no heavier than in summer or fall. Rainfall remains fairly constant from May to November at approximately 3 to 4 inches per month. If you enjoy the quietly melting snow and fresh spring breezes, this season may be your golden opportunity to indulge in outdoor activities before the summer rush.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't preclude anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before.

Several travel agencies offer services for travelers with disabilities who are eager to explore the natural and cultural wonders of New York State. People and Places (tel. 716/937-1813 or 716/496-8826; www.people-and-places.org) offers escorted tours for vacationers with developmental disabilities to the Adirondacks, Catskills, Thousand Islands, Finger Lakes, and other destinations in New York State. Next Stop New York (tel. 800/434-7554 or 718/264-2300; www.nextstopnewyork.com) designs theater, food-tasting, and sightseeing tours of Manhattan for groups or individuals. Alternative Leisure Co. & Trips Unlimited (tel. 781/275-0023; www.alctrips.com) offers group excursions in New York and New England as well as a "Traveling Companion" program, which provides staff members to accompany individuals on customized trips.

The America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Access Pass (formerly the Golden Access Passport) gives travelers who are visually impaired or have permanent disabilities (regardless of age) free lifetime entrance to federal recreation sites administered by the National Park Service, including the Fish and Wildlife Service, the Forest Service, the Bureau of Land Management, and the Bureau of Reclamation. This may include national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges.

The America the Beautiful Access Pass can be obtained only in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. You need to show proof of medically determined disability. Besides free entry, the pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov or call tel. 888/467-2757.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 215/663-6000; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB) (tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 888/879-4273) has an "Avis Access" program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription ($16.95 year U.S.; $21.95 outside U.S.).

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845/124-9971 in U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for travelers with disabilities and seniors.