Planning a trip to New Zealand

Visitor Information

To get started, contact the nearest Tourism New Zealand office for a complimentary copy of its New Zealand Vacation Planner. Their offices can be found in the United States at 501 Santa Monica Blvd., Ste. 300, Santa Monica, CA 90401 (tel. 866/639-9325 in the U.S., or 310/395-7480); in Canada at 888 Dunsmuir St., Ste. 1200, Vancouver, BC V6C 3K4 (tel. 800/888-5494 in Canada, or 604/684-2117); in Australia at Level 8, 35 Pitt St., Sydney, NSW 2000 (tel. 02/9247-5222); in England at New Zealand House, Haymarket, SW1Y 4TQ, London (tel. 020/7930-1662); in Germany at Rossmarkt 11, 60311 Frankfurt am Main (tel. 069/9712-1110); and in Hong Kong at Unit 1601 Vicwood Plaza, 199 Des Voeux Rd. (tel. 852/2526-0141).

The official Tourism New Zealand website is www.newzealand.com, which provides comprehensive details for every aspect of your trip and is a must-visit. Click on your home country to see the latest deals, with contact information for travel agents. Other good sites include New Zealand on the Web (www.nz.com), which has hundreds of great links; for up-to-the-minute ski information, check www.nzski.com.

When you arrive in New Zealand, you'll find 80 official i-SITE Visitor Centres (www.i-site.org) scattered around the country. Friendly staff members can book accommodations, activities, and tours; provide maps; and sell stamps and phone cards. You can pick up a list of i-SITE locations at Auckland and Christchurch international airports.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

New Zealand is a relatively good destination for visitors with disabilities. Since 1975, every public building and major renovated structure in the country has been required by law to provide reasonable and adequate access for those with disabilities. In addition, accommodations with five or more units are required to provide at least one room for guests with disabilities. For general information, contact the New Zealand Disability Resource Centre, 14 Erson Ave., Royal Oak, Auckland (tel. 09/625-8069; www.disabilityresource.org.nz).

If you're traveling by air in New Zealand, you'll be relieved to know our airline staff is very considerate. You will always be taken onto the aircraft ahead of other passengers and you'll be last off.

If you have a disabled parking pass, bring it with you. You can contact the New Zealand Disability Resource Centre (above) well ahead of your travel time to organize a New Zealand pass, but bringing your own is a good backstop. Every town center and shopping mall has designated disabled parking spaces, so you're unlikely to encounter parking problems, even in peak tourist season.

Money

It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on your New Zealand vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and traveler's checks. You should also exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home, or withdraw money upon arrival at an airport ATM.

Most travelers find New Zealand to be very reasonably priced in most things - ludicrously so in some cases, I'm sure. Certainly anyone converting from British pounds or American or Canadian dollars is going to get great value across-the-board.

The New Zealand dollar (NZ$) is based on the decimal system, and there are 100 cents in the dollar. There are coin denominations of 10, 20, and 50 cents and $1 and $2, as well as bank notes in $5, $10, $20, $50, and $100 amounts.

ATMs -- ATMs are common throughout New Zealand. You'll find them inside and outside all banks, in major shopping centers, in supermarkets and gas stations. Some smaller towns in remote locations - on Stewart Island or Great Barrier Island for instance, or in some parts of the South Island's West Coast - don't have ATMs at all.

Most likely, your ATM card is compatible with New Zealand systems. The machines generally accept four-digit PINs, but it always pays to check with your bank beforehand. Also check with your bank about fees for using your card internationally. The Bank of New Zealand accepts ATM cards in the Cirrus system (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com); other banks accept cards in the PLUS system (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com).

Credit Cards -- Most New Zealand businesses take MasterCard and Visa. American Express, Diners Club, Bankcard, and Japan Credit Bank are also widely accepted in major tourist centers, but less so in smaller towns.

You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "foreign transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether it's in local currency or your native currency).

Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country - even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement. For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

What Things Cost in New Zealand

Taxi from the airport to downtown Auckland: NZ$50-90

Double room, moderate: NZ$350-600

Double room, inexpensive: NZ$150-250

Three-course dinner for one without wine, moderate: NZ$70-80

Bottle of beer: NZ$3.50-7

Cup of coffee: NZ$3.50-4.50

1 gallon/1 liter of premium gas: NZ$2.10-2.40

Admission to most museums: Free or by donation

Admission to most national parks: Free

Tips for Senior Travelers

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

New Zealand has a long-established reputation for being "clean and green," and Tourism New Zealand's 100% Pure New Zealand brand campaign has reinforced that. It goes without saying that tourism in this country is largely shaped by the uniqueness of our environment and culture, and as the major contributor to the nation's economy, it is vital that all New Zealanders have a genuine desire to ensure its future.

No surprise, then, that ecotourism is now the fastest growing sector of New Zealand's tourism industry. Everyone is jumping on the sustainable tourism bandwagon, and while most are driven by genuine altruistic motives, the cynic in me suspects many are becoming "green-rated" as a marketing ploy, without backing up their claims of being ecofriendly with anything beyond tokenism.

In light of the worldwide focus on sustainability issues, it is apt that New Zealand takes a second look at itself. Despite all those "clean and green" claims, the country has long been a poor performer in industrial and agricultural waste management and recycling. That is changing fast. Farmers are developing cutting-edge technology to improve dairy farm effluent management; industries are being forced to comply with new waste management regulations aimed to help clean up our waterways; and businesses across-the-board are taking a lively approach to pest and weed control, reforestation, and the restoration of prime ecological environments. Tourism operators and organizations are also working much more closely with central and local governments to address concerns about waste disposal associated with campers and motor homes, and tourists' accessibility to local recycling programs. In short, there has been a groundswell of interest in sustainability measures, and there is now an expectation that business operators will put their best foot forward -- especially in the tourism arena.

Leading the charge is Tourism New Zealand, with its unique approach to sustainability based on the traditional Maori principles of manaakitanga (hospitality) andkaitiakitanga (guardianship) - welcoming visitors while protecting and managing our culture and environment. Its Tourism Strategy 2015 is based on a whole New Zealand approach that will see increasing numbers of sustainability initiatives put into action over the coming few years. This includes initiatives like the New Zealand Emissions Trading Scheme, which aims to encourage all sectors of the economy, including tourism, to find smart, efficient ways to cut back their emissions. A transport strategy will focus on creating a sustainable transport network throughout the country.

Already in place is the Qualmark Responsible Tourism Operations program, a partnership between Tourism New Zealand and the New Zealand Automobile Association. While the system does have its detractors (with negativity focused on the nature of its rating system), it has gone some way toward tidying up New Zealand's accommodations sector. In terms of sustainability and ecotourism, it must be said that some rating system is better than no rating system. You'll now find many tourism providers boasting about having a Qualmark Enviro-Gold, -Silver, or -Bronze rating - so many, in fact, that it's hard not to suspect some of the motives behind this huge rush to sign on. Businesses performing at the top level of this rating system, though, will be energy efficient and will have active waste management and water conservation practices, and will be taking part in conservation initiatives and community activities. It is largely thanks to this integrated quality and environmental tourism performance assurance system - the first of its kind in the world - that New Zealand was voted Overall Winner and Best Destination in the Virgin Holidays Responsible Tourism Awards in London in 2008. The judges recognized Qualmark Green as one of New Zealand's most important achievements in responsible tourism.

New Zealand's Environmentally Sustainable Tourism Project is another worthy of attention. Jointly run by the Ministry for the Environment and the Ministry of Tourism, it established six regional tourism charters committed to the sustainable practices laid down in Tourism New Zealand's sustainable strategy. Enterprise Northland, Destination Rotorua, Tourism Bay of Plenty, Latitude Nelson, Lake Wanaka Tourism, and Venture Southland/Destination Fiordland all work toward improving the environmental performance of participating tourism operators. You can find all members signed up to these charters by asking at the appropriate regional visitor centers.

Increasing numbers of New Zealand businesses are also becoming Green Globe Benchmarked or Green Globe Certified. Green Globe is based on Agenda 21, a comprehensive plan of action regarding sustainable development endorsed at the United Nations Earth Summit in 1992. There are currently Green Globe participants in more than 50 countries around the world. A tourism operation can only use a Green Globe logo once it has been measured to be above the benchmarking base-line performance level. The Green Globe website (www.greenglobeint.com) lists New Zealand operations affiliated with the program.

Recycling generally has taken on a new impetus in New Zealand in the last 2 years. Every major city's rubbish collection program now has separate bins for paper and recyclable goods, organic waste and nonrecyclable matter; and national parks and public areas are well-equipped with rubbish bins. Recycling within hotels (for guests) is much less common. Many hotels have instituted sustainable practices but that doesn't usually extend to providing recycling bins within guest rooms. I suspect that will change as pressure on the environment continues. I've provided a separate box listing a number of accommodations and tourism providers that I think are approaching the matter of sustainability with commitment and integrity.

While sustainable tourism operations and community initiatives are increasingly common in New Zealand, there are very few restaurants totally committed to organic menus. That said, increasing numbers of chefs are sourcing organic meats and other ingredients to include in their menus. Organic produce is much more widely available in New Zealand now, but it is still more highly priced - sometimes ridiculously so. Even the huge groundswell of farmers' markets throughout the country has done little to lower the price of genuine organic produce. So if you order organic, expect to pay more.

One of the most exciting aspects of sustainability in New Zealand has been the huge growth in volunteer projects with a sustainability focus. In short, there are numerous opportunities to sign on for replanting programs, track and walkway building projects, native bird-breeding programs, pest trapping in national parks, working on organic farms, and more. This is an excellent way to give your holiday a meaningful edge that will be rewarding for both yourself and New Zealand's unique environment.

You can help even more by flying here with our national airline, Air New Zealand. Not only did they carry out the world's first commercial aviation test flight using a sustainable second-generation biofuel derived from the plant Jatropha curcas, they also have an active carbon offset program, which allows customers to make a donation to the Air New Zealand Environment Trust.

Some Sustainable Properties in New Zealand

Following is a selection of properties that have either attained Green Globe benchmarking, a Qualmark Enviro rating, or both. Throughout the guide I have also noted the properties and tourism operators who have a commitment to sustainable practices.

Auckland

Bethells Beach Cottages

Braemar on Parliament Street

The Great Ponsonby Arthotel

Langham Hotel Auckland

SKYCITY Grand Hotel

Northland & Coromandel

Base Pipi Patch

Carrington Resort

Colleith Lodge

Villa Toscana

Waikato & Bay of Plenty

Kamahi Cottage

Novotel Tainui

Ridge Country Retreat

Rotorua & Tongariro National Park

Bayview Chateau Tongariro

Maruata Rotorua

Peppers on the Point

Treetops Lodge & Estate

Gisborne & Hawke's Bay

The County Hotel

Knapdale Eco Lodge

Wanganui

The Flying Fox

Wellington

Bolton Hotel

InterContinental Wellington

James Cook Hotel Grand Chancellor

Mount Victoria Homestay

Ohtel

Nelson

Abel Tasman Lodge

Abel Tasman Ocean View Chalets

Awaroa Lodge

Shelbourne Villa

39 Russell

Christchurch & Canterbury

The Classic Villa

The Marque Christchurch

Wilderness Lodge

The Worcester of Christchurch

West Coast

Breakers Boutique Accommodation

Chelsea Gateway Motor Lodge

Te Waonui Forest Retreat

Wilderness Lodge Lake Moeraki

Wanaka

Edgewater Resort

Lime Tree Lodge

Maple Lodge

Wanaka Springs

Whare Kea Lodge

Mount Cook

Hermitage Hotel

Queenstown

The Heritage

Queenstown Top 10 Holiday Park Creeksyde

The Rees Hotel & Luxury Apartments

Remarkables Lodge

Fiordland & Southland

Fiordland Lodge

The Lodge at Tikana

Stewart Island

Stewart Island Lodge

Dunedin

Nisbet Cottage

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Gay and lesbian travelers will feel at ease in New Zealand, especially in Auckland and Wellington. Some provincial areas have a slightly narrower view of life and gay travelers may get some derogatory comments, but overall there's no threat to safety. For information, go to the New Zealand Gay and Lesbian Tourism Association website at www.iglta.org, or write to them at P.O. Box 24-558, Wellington 6015, NZ (tel. 04/917-9184; fax 04/917-9176). Other New Zealand gay and lesbian websites include www.gaynz.com, Pink Pages New Zealand (www.pinkpagesnewzealand.com), Queer Resources Aotearoa (www.qrd.org.nz), and Gay Queenstown (www.gayqueenstown.com). The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) (tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

A passport is required for all entering visitors, and it must be valid for at least 3 months beyond your departure date from New Zealand. If you lose yours, visit the nearest consulate of your native country as soon as possible for a replacement.

For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov/. For general information, call the National Passport Agency (tel. 202/647-0518). To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 900/225-5674); the fee is 55¢ per minute for automated information and $1.50 per minute for operator-assisted calls.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525), or at most main post offices.

For Residents of Australia: You can get an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au.

Visas

Visas are not required for stays shorter than 3 months (as long as you don't plan to study, work, or undergo medical treatment) if you're a citizen of one of the following countries: Andorra, Argentina, Austria, Bahrain, Belgium, Brazil, Brunei, Canada, Chile, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hong Kong (if you're traveling with a Special Administrative passport or if you hold a British national passport), Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Japan, Korea (South), Kuwait, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malaysia, Malta, Mexico, Monaco, the Netherlands, Norway, Oman, Poland, Portugal (Portuguese passport holders must have the right to live permanently in Portugal), Qatar, San Marino, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Slovak Republic, Slovenia, South Africa, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, United Arab Emirates, United States, Uruguay, and Vatican City. British citizens are allowed a 6-month stay without a visa.

If you're planning to visit for longer than is stated above, or if your country of origin is not listed, contact the nearest New Zealand embassy, consulate, or High Commission for information on the appropriate visa and an application. If you'd like to work or live in New Zealand, you can inquire at an embassy or consulate, or write to the New Zealand Immigration Service, P.O. Box 27-149, Wellington, NZ (www.immigration.govt.nz).

Before entering New Zealand you must have a confirmed round-trip or outward-bound ticket; enough money for your designated stay (NZ$1,000 per person per month; credit cards are accepted); and the necessary documents to enter the country from which you came or the next country on your itinerary.

Customs

What You Can Bring into New Zealand -- Do not bring any fruit or plants into New Zealand. Because of the importance of agriculture and horticulture to the economy, animal products, fruit, plant material, and foodstuffs that may contain plant or animal pests and diseases will not be allowed into the country. Heavy fines may be imposed on people caught carrying these prohibited materials. If in doubt, place all questionable items, especially fruit, into the marked bins before approaching the immigration area upon arrival at a New Zealand airport.

Firearms and weapons, unless a permit is obtained from the New Zealand police upon arrival at the airport, are not allowed. Note: This includes firearms intended for sporting purposes. Other prohibited items include ivory, in any form; tortoise- or turtleshell jewelry and ornaments; medicines that incorporate musk, rhinoceros, or tiger derivatives; carvings or anything made from whalebone or bone from any other marine animal; and cat skins or coats. Certain drugs (diuretics, tranquilizers, depressants, stimulants, cardiac drugs, and sleeping pills) may not be allowed unless they are covered by a doctor's prescription. Pirated copyright goods and objectionable (indecent) articles such as DVDs and publications are also prohibited. No live animals are allowed without going through the legal quarantine requirements.

New Zealand's duty-free allowances are 50 cigarettes or 50 grams (less than 2 oz.) of tobacco; 4.5 liters of wine or beer (equivalent to six 750ml bottles); three bottles of spirits or liquor (each containing no more than 1,125ml/about 2.5 pints); and goods totaling NZ$700 that were purchased for your own use or for a gift. Make sure you have receipts available for inspection. For more information, go to customs.govt.nz.

What You Can Bring Home -- Returning United States citizens who have been away for 48 hours or more are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, $800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You'll be charged a flat rate of 4% duty on the next $1,000 worth of purchases. Be sure to have your receipts handy. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is $200. You cannot bring fresh foodstuffs into the United States; tinned foods, however, are allowed. For more information, contact the U.S. Customs Service, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8867), and request the free pamphlet Know Before You Go. It's also available online at www.customs.gov.

Getting Around

By Plane

A year seldom passes without some slight upheaval in New Zealand's domestic air scene. Air New Zealand (tel. 0800/737-000 in NZ, or 09/357-3000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz), along with its Air New Zealand Link, now dominates the airways, with Qantas New Zealand (tel. 0800/808-767 in NZ, or 09/357-8900; www.nz.qantas.com.au) servicing the main centers. British-owned Virgin Australia's trans-Tasman flights operate under the name Pacific Blue (tel. 0800/670-000; www.flypacificblue.com), with domestic flights between Auckland, Brisbane, Hamilton, Wellington, Christchurch, and Dunedin. Jetstar (tel. 0800/800-995; www.jetstar.com) is another recent addition to the domestic airways, offering service between Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch, and Queenstown. Other smaller airlines fly internal routes, and you'll come across other aircraft willing to fly chartered routes.

If your time is limited, Air New Zealand (tel. 800/262-1234 in the U.S., or www.airnewzealand.com) is a good source of special deals. They regularly offer packages and deals of the month, but these must be purchased outside of New Zealand.

Once you're inside the country, Air New Zealand's grabaseat Deals are a fantastic option, although you need to be spending quite some time in New Zealand, as they're usually for travel 2 or 3 months in advance. They are posted online daily, and because they're restricted and at such amazing prices, they're snapped up fast.

By Car

I think the roads in New Zealand are pretty good, but I've heard many Americans say they're terrible and that New Zealanders are aggressive drivers. As for traffic on New Zealand roads, especially in the South Island, it's minimal compared to that found in Northern Hemisphere cities. Unfortunately, I do have to agree with the bit about aggressive drivers. The biggest dangers are excessive speed and foolhardy overtaking, so be careful of both. The New Zealand police have taken a much stronger stance against speeding in recent years, so expect many more speed cameras, more police on the roads, and much higher fines for speeding.

When driving between destinations, do not underestimate travel times. Distances may seem short in kilometer terms but roads are very often winding and sometimes narrow. Time and again I hear of international visitors driving from, say, Nelson to Queenstown in 1 day, or Auckland to Wellington in 1 day. It's certainly possible, but the idea is ludicrous. If you're that short on time, you'd be better off flying between destinations because you're not doing yourselves or the country any justice. Progress can be slower than you expect.

Note that petrol prices in New Zealand are currently fluctuating greatly. At time of writing, they ranged from NZ$2.10 per liter for 91 octane, NZ$2.27 for 95/96 octane, NZ$2.40 for 98 octane, and NZ$1.50 to NZ$1.60 per liter for diesel. For a good overview of current petrol prices in New Zealand, check www.pricewatch.co.nz.

Multilane motorways surround most of the larger cities, but most roads are dual carriageways. There are some single-lane and unsealed roads in remote areas, and these should be approached cautiously - as should all roads during the winter months when rain and ice can create treacherous surfaces.

Statistics show that in 2003, 632 drivers in New Zealand with foreign licenses were involved in nonfatal accidents and 23 in fatal crashes. Police at the scene of 85 of the nonfatal and three of the fatal crashes believed that the fact the driver was foreign was a factor in the accident. So, the message is to keep your wits about you and don't underestimate the danger just because fewer cars are on the roads. Pay particular attention on State Highway 1, north of Auckland and between Auckland and Hamilton, where statistics show a higher volume of crashes. Other hotspots are State Highway 2 to the Bay of Plenty and the Napier-Taupo highway. In the South Island, the most crashes occur on State Highway 1 between Nelson and Christchurch and Christchurch and Dunedin.

Car parking in Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch can be expensive and hard to find. All cities have numerous car-parking buildings though. Street parking is metered. You pay in coins, or by using a credit card or via your mobile phone. Instructions are marked clearly on each meter. If you exceed metered times, expect to be fined heavily in the major cities. Fines usually start at NZ$40 and go up from there the longer you overstay your limit.

New Zealand roads are not tolled, with one exception - the Northern Gateway Toll Road, a new stretch of the Northern Motorway, which bypasses the town of Orewa, north of Auckland. This is a more direct route between Auckland and Northland, but as it only cuts around 10 minutes off your journey and the automated payment of tolls has been causing headaches ever since it was instigated, I would strongly advise you simply turn off the motorway and continue on the old route through pretty, seaside Orewa. The exit for this free route on the Hibiscus Coast Highway via Orewa is clearly marked on signs above the motorway.

For those who wish to continue on the toll road, you will pay NZ$2 for a car or light commercial vehicle and NZ$4 for a heavy vehicle (exceeding about 7,700 lb. or 3.5 metric tons). Motorcycles are free. There is no additional charge for towing a trailer or caravan. The fully Electronic Toll Collection (ETC) system means tolls are collected without the need for vehicles to slow, stop, or change lanes to pay a toll; and you can pay at your convenience, either by setting up an account, via a toll-free phone number, or at one of the self-service kiosks. As a visitor to New Zealand, though, you'll be an occasional user, so you can buy single, return, or multiple trip tickets via the website www.landtransport.govt.nz/tollroad, at a service kiosk located along the road, or by calling the toll-free number tel. 0800/402-020 between 8am and 6pm. The road is electronically patrolled and failure to pay the toll will result in fines. Again, I strongly suggest turning off the motorway and proceeding through Orewa. The way is well marked with signs.

If you plan to drive, consider joining the New Zealand Automobile Association (AA) while you're here. In New Zealand, call tel. 0800/500-444 or visit www.aa.co.nz; they have offices around the country and can give you all the details about driving in New Zealand, plus maps, that you need. AA offers excellent breakdown services and advice to drivers. If you belong to a similar organization in your home country, membership is free, so don't forget to bring along your membership card.

Mapping a Path -- You'll receive a set of maps when you collect your rental car; if you're a member of the Automobile Association in the United States, Australia, Britain, or other European countries, you'll have reciprocal privileges with the New Zealand AA. One of the best maps of the country is issued by the New Zealand Automobile Association, 99 Albert St., Auckland (tel. 09/966-8800; www.aa.co.nz); 205 Hills Rd., Shirley, Christchurch (tel. 03/386-1090); or 343 Lambton Quay, Wellington (tel. 04/931-9999). AA sells other detailed maps as well, plus "strip maps" of your itinerary and comprehensive guidebooks of accommodations (some of which give discounts to AA members). Be sure to bring your membership card from home. Wises Mapping, 604 Great South Rd., Ellerslie, Auckland (tel. 800/823-225; www.wises.co.nz), also produces an excellent map, available at newsstands and bookshops throughout New Zealand.

Driving Rules & Regulations -- You must be at least 21 to 25 years old to rent a car in New Zealand, and you must have a driver's license that you've held for at least 1 year from the United States, Australia, Canada, or the United Kingdom (or an international driving permit). Recent law changes mean all drivers, including visitors, must carry their license or permit at all times.

Remember to drive on the left and wear seat belts at all times. The speed limit for the open road is 100kph (62mph); on the outskirts of many towns it is 80kph (50mph); and within towns and city boundaries it is 50kph (31mph). Rigid speeding laws are now in place and you face heavy fines if you exceed limits. New Zealand has also tightened up its drunk-driving laws, and if you are stopped in a random police check for compulsory breath testing for alcohol, you must take the test.

Taking to the Highways -- Some kind and ever-so-thoughtful person - and I think it might be someone at Jasons Publishing (www.jasons.com) - had the good sense to create seven marvelous highway route planners. They include The Twin Coast Discovery Highway, covering Northland and Auckland; The Pacific Coast Highway, covering Auckland, Coromandel, coastal Bay of Plenty, Eastland, and Hawke's Bay; and the Classic New Zealand Wine Trail. These free maps detail the best features of each trip, places to stay and eat, and adventures to sample along the way. They're available at visitor centers throughout the country.

Car Rentals

Every major city has numerous rental-car companies, and international companies like Avis, Budget, and Hertz hire a wide range of vehicles. Most offer good deals that can be prebooked before you leave home. However, it pays to shop around and compare not only the prices, but also the cars. Some companies offer cheap deals, but their cars may be well over 10 years old. Most companies also require that you take out accident insurance with an insurance company authorized by them, and you generally need to be 25 to be able to rent a car in New Zealand.

Maui Rentals (tel. 800/351-2323 in the U.S.; www.maui-rentals.com) has vehicles that are either brand-new or less than a year old. Daily rates range from NZ$150 to NZ$400, depending on the size of the car and the time of year. The price includes the goods and service tax (GST) and unlimited mileage, but insurance runs about NZ$30 extra per day. Because Maui has offices in Auckland and Christchurch, there's no extra charge for one-way trips. They also rent a range of extras like a GPS, which goes for NZ$9 per day - a very good investment, I think. Contact the local offices at 36 Richard Pearce Dr., Mangere, Auckland (tel. 09/255-0620; fax 09/255-0629), or 530-544 Memorial Ave., Christchurch (tel. 0800/651-080 in NZ, or 03/358-4159; www.maui.co.nz). Both provide courtesy airport shuttle service.

Auto Rentals Kiwi Travel, New Brighton, Christchurch (tel. 0800/736-893 in NZ, or 800/905-8071 in U.S.; www.autorentals.co.nz), is an established chain offering a modern fleet of cars for budget-minded travelers. They offer sedans, station wagons, and minibuses at competitive rates. They are also an accredited TranzRail booking agency and can help with interisland ferry and train bookings, accommodations, and further vehicle rentals.

Affordable Rental Cars, 48 Carr Rd., Mount Roskill, Auckland (tel. 0800/454-443 in NZ, or 09/630-1567; fax 09/630-3692; www.car-rental.co.nz), has daily rates on unlimited-mileage vehicles from NZ$35 to NZ$95, depending on the vehicle and time of travel. Prices include GST and insurance.

If you want to spoil yourself, try Classic Car Touring New Zealand, 181 Hobson St., Auckland (tel. 021/702-623 in NZ; www.classiccartouring.co.nz), specializing in self-drive classic cars for NZ$350 to NZ$750 per day, depending on the vehicle; or Smartcars Luxury Car Hire, 110 Nelson St., Auckland (tel. 0800/458-987 in NZ, or 09/307-3553; www.smartcars.co.nz), offering the very latest convertibles and 4*4s from Europe.

You can also rent in advance from the following: Avis (tel. 800/230-4898 in the U.S.; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 800/527-0700 in the U.S.; www.budget.com), Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131 in the U.S.; www.hertz.com), and Thrifty (tel. 800/847-4389 in the U.S.; www.thrifty.com). Daily costs average about NZ$100 to NZ$150.

Alternatives to Renting a Car -- If you'll be in New Zealand for an extended period of time, it may be worthwhile to investigate the guaranteed tourist buyback plan offered by North Harbour Hyundai, 175 Wairau Rd., Takapuna (tel. 09/444-7777; fax 09/444-7099; www.hyundainz.co.nz). This Auckland dealership sells used Toyotas, Nissans, Hondas, and similar cars to visitors with a written agreement to purchase them back after a stipulated time period. Cars come with a nationwide warranty; the owner pays for the insurance. For an example of what to expect, Wheels, 376 Lincoln Rd., Christchurch (tel. 03/366-4855; www.newzealandrentalcar.co.nz), has sold buyback vehicles for NZ$5,000 and bought them back for approximately NZ$3,000 after 3 months of use. (Note: This is only an example of a possible scenario.)

If you're staying in hostels, you'll often find car-share schemes advertised on notice boards. If you want to arrange a carpool officially, check www.carpoolnz.org. It puts people who need a ride in touch with those willing to give them one. The system operates throughout the country, and the person getting the ride pays a small commission and something toward gas costs, which usually works out to be about half the cost of a bus ticket.

By RV or Motor Home

If you want ultimate freedom, consider renting what we call a campervan. Both Maui Rentals (tel. 800/351-2323 in the U.S., or 0800/651-080 in NZ) and Newmans (tel. 09/302-1582 in Auckland) offer minivans and motor homes. Maui rents two-berth, four-berth, and six-berth vehicles, and you'll find their rates and special deals on their website. Britz New Zealand (tel. 0800/831-900 in NZ; www.britz.com) also has a range of excellent vehicles at good rates.

If you fancy yourself in something superfunky, opt for New Zealand's most distinctive campervans, individually painted by top New Zealand artists. You can get these from Escape Rentals (tel. 0800/216-171; www.escaperentals.co.nz), which has depots in Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch. They offer competitive rates and unlimited free kilometers, but don't for a minute think you'll escape attention. Spaceships (tel. 0800/772-237 in NZ; www.spaceships.tv) has great little cars that convert to mini campervans, and are much easier to drive than their bigger brother. Spaceships has depots in Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch.

The minimum age required to drive a campervan rental in New Zealand is usually 21, but for some it may be as high as 23 to 25 years. There may also be restrictions for drivers over 75 years. Campervans also incur higher insurance charges. Make sure you at least have windscreen and tire insurance.

By Motorcycle

If you enjoy the thrill of speed and the wind in your hair, you can rent motorcycles or purchase tour packages with or without guides. Just bring your full motorcycle license or international driving permit and call New Zealand Motorcycle Rentals and Tours, 72 Barry's Point Rd., Takapuna, Auckland (tel. 09/486-2472; www.nzbike.com), which has a wide range of BMW, Honda, Harley-Davidson, and Yamaha bikes. They're official New Zealand Tourism Award winners, and all their gear is in top condition.

Adventure New Zealand Motorcycle Tours & Rentals, 29 Bolt Rd., Nelson (tel. 03/548-5787; www.gotournz.com), offers a range of deluxe tours with top-class bikes and upmarket accommodations for the 35 to 65 set. Towanda Women, Christchurch (tel. 03/314-9097; www.towanda.org), specializes in guided New Zealand-wide motorcycle tours for women only.

By Bicycle

New Zealand's mild summer climate and varied landscape make it an ideal cycling destination. Many companies run tours or rent bicycles. Start with Adventure Biking Natural High, 58 McDonald Rd., Lincoln (tel. 03/982-2966; www.bicyclerentals.co.nz), which offers a range of rental cycles, plus a buyback option that allows you to sell your bike for 50% of its cost at the end of your tour. City Cycle Hire, 73 Wrights Rd., Christchurch (tel. 03/377-5952; www.cyclehire-tours.co.nz), has a 5-day adventure on the Central Otago Rail Trail. Adventure South, P.O. Box 33-153, Christchurch (tel. 03/942-1222; www.remarkableadventuresnz.co.nz or www.advsouth.co.nz), offers a wide range of guided tours in the South Island.

By Taxi

Taxi stands are located at all airport and transport terminals and on major shopping streets of cities and towns. You cannot hail a taxi on the street within a quarter-mile of a stand. Taxis are on call 24 hours a day, although there's an additional charge if you call for one. Drivers don't expect a tip just to transport you, but if they handle a lot of luggage or perform other special services, it's perfectly acceptable to add a little extra. Be aware that many taxi drivers in Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch are recent immigrants and don't always have a comprehensive grasp of English.

By Interisland Ferry

Crossing Cook Strait on one of the ferry services will give you a chance to see both islands from the water, as well as the serene Marlborough Sounds. Two ferry companies operate on the Strait, which can be boarded in either Wellington or Picton.

The Interislander ferry system (tel. 0800/802-802 in NZ; www.interislander.co.nz) operates every day with three vessels - Arahura, Kaitaki, and Aratere - that offer a tourism experience in their own right, not just a practical means of getting across the water. You can choose from six daily departure times; the crossing takes 3 hours. The ferries have licensed bar and cafe areas, TV lounges, shops, and play areas, and the newer Kaitaki, the biggest ferry in New Zealand, has two movie theaters and room for 1,600 passengers. Interislander ferries have three fare types. Easy Change fares are the most flexible and can be canceled right up to check-in without cancellation fees. Saver Change fares are the midrange fares that incur a 50% fee if canceled. Web Saver fares are the cheapest way to travel, but once booked they're nonrefundable. They are available all year but numbers are limited, so book early. Overseas bookings can be made by international customers online, or by calling tel. 64/4-498-3302; from outside of New Zealand you can book only Easy Change fares. Web Saver and Saver Change fares can be booked only within New Zealand, and they sell out quickly during peak season.

If you're traveling by train or InterCity Coach, ask about the cost-effective through-fares, which are subject to availability.

Bicycles and sports gear can be taken on the ferry for a small additional cost, as can campervans or motor homes -- though these travel at a premium fare. Note: If you plan to transport any kind of vehicle (including bikes) by ferry, you need a confirmed reservation.

Bluebridge Cook Strait Ferry (tel. 0800/844-844 in NZ; www.bluebridge.co.nz) sails four times daily between Wellington and Picton. It operates two vessels, Santa Regina and Straitsman, which feature lounges, cafe and bar facilities, outdoor decks, free big-screen movies, and shops. Fare bookings are transferable until 24 hours before travel subject to availability, but they're nonrefundable.

Regardless of which ferry you select, keep in mind that Cook Strait is a notoriously changeable stretch of water, and high swells can affect those prone to seasickness. Bad weather may also affect scheduled departures.

By Coach (Bus)

Coaches offer a cost-effective way of getting around New Zealand; as a bonus, you don't have to worry about driving on the left or studying maps. Most provide excellent commentary and stop frequently for refreshments en route, but smoking is not permitted. There are three major services in New Zealand (all owned by the same company). InterCity operates three-star coaches on New Zealand's most comprehensive coach network, visiting 600 towns and cities, with over 170 services daily; Newmans is a standard route option throughout the country, except on the South Island's West Coast, where it operates as a tourist service and a code-share with Great Sights; and Great Sights, New Zealand's premier daily sightseeing operator, which provides the most extensive sightseeing network nationwide. Reminder: Book coach journeys in advance during peak travel periods (summer and holidays).

InterCity (tel. 09/583-5780 in Auckland and 03/377-0951 in Christchurch; www.intercity.co.nz) offers discounts to students, seniors (60 and over), and YHA members and VIP (Backpackers) cardholders. Check out their Flexi-Pass, which allows travelers to buy blocks of travel time up to 40% cheaper than standard fares on all InterCity and Newmans journeys. The Flexi-Pass gives you total freedom to explore the country with an hours-based pass that can be topped up like a prepaid phone card. Set your own itinerary and travel when and where you like. You can lock in discounts on every seat, every service, nationwide, every day; and the more hours you buy, the cheaper it becomes. The pass is valid for a year and can be used on the Interislander and on selected tours and dolphin-watching cruises in the Bay of Islands. Passes start at NZ$168 for 15 hours of travel. For more information, check out www.flexipass.co.nz.

InterCity and Newmans (tel. 09/583-5780; www.newmanscoach.co.nz) coaches are also included in the Travelpass New Zealand deal, which brings together an extensive range of "hop on and off" fixed itinerary passes based on the most popular touring routes throughout the country. It allows you to travel with New Zealand's largest coach, train, air, and ferry network. There are a number of different deals. For instance, the Aotearoa Adventurer gives you 14 days travel (minimum) throughout New Zealand for NZ$1,283; a Kiwi Explorer gives you 9 days travel (minimum) for NZ$682. Among the North Island Passes on offer, the Discovery package gives 4 days travel (minimum) for NZ$279 and includes visits to Auckland, Rotorua, Napier, Taupo, and Wellington. In the South, the West Coast Pass costs from NZ$154 to NZ$180 depending on departure point and is good for 3 months on the route from Nelson to Queenstown. For information, contact Travelpass New Zealand (tel. 0800/339-966 in NZ, or 09/638-5780; fax 09/638-5774; www.travelpass.co.nz).

Great Sights, 102 Hobson St., Auckland (tel. 0800/744-487 in NZ, or 09/583-5790; www.greatsights.co.nz), offers a wide range of day, overnight, and multiday tours throughout New Zealand, utilizing a modern fleet of luxury coaches with complimentary hotel pickups. Experienced drivers offer informative commentary, and modern, low-emission luxury vehicles are equipped with air-conditioning, reclining seats, and onboard restrooms. They offer over 40 daily sightseeing trips across the country, including the Bay of Islands, Auckland Sights, Waitomo Caves, Rotorua, Mount Cook, Christchurch Sights, Milford Sound, and the West Coast Glaciers.

Alternative Buses & Shuttles

For the young and/or adventurous, Kiwi Experience, 85 Beach Rd., Auckland (tel. 09/336-4286; www.kiwiexperience.com), and the Magic Travellers Network, 120 Albert St., Auckland (tel. 09/358-5600; www.magicbus.co.nz), provide something that's between a standard coach and a tour.

Popular with backpackers, these coaches travel over a half-dozen established routes, and passengers can get off whenever they like and pick up the next coach days or weeks later. The coaches make stops at scenic points along the way for bush walking, swimming, and sometimes even a barbecue. Prices vary according to the route, but typically are from around NZ$790 to cover both islands in 14 days. Passes are valid for 12 months with Magic Travellers and 12 months with Kiwi Experience.

Flying Kiwi Expeditions, 4B Forests Rd., Stoke, Nelson (tel. 03/547-0171; www.flyingkiwi.com), is another fun-packed flexible alternative to the well-beaten tourist trail. Ten different options combine travel and outdoor activities, priced according to the number of activities included. For other zany southern alternatives try Travel HeadFirst Bottom Bus, P.O. Box 434, Dunedin (tel. 03/477-9083; www.travelheadfirst.com/bottom-bus), which offers fully guided bus tours exploring the very south of New Zealand.

Shuttle transport is another alternative. Numerous companies on both islands run minibus shuttles between cities. You can get details from area visitor centers. Atomic Shuttles, Christchurch (tel. 03/349-0697; www.atomictravel.co.nz), offers service between 30 South Island stops.

By Train

Tranz Scenic (tel. 0800/872-467 in NZ; www.tranzscenic.co.nz) operates three long-distance train routes through rugged landscapes -- the Overlander, which runs Auckland to Wellington; the TranzCoastal, Christchurch to Picton; and the TranzAlpine, Christchurch to Greymouth. The trains are modern and comfortable, heated or air-conditioned, and ventilated. Service has greatly improved under new management, and views of spectacular landscapes are assured. Tranz Scenic offers discounts for students, YHA members, Backpacker cardholders, and those 55 and over. It also has a limited number of Saver Fares and Super Saver Fares during off-peak times. Also ask about the Scenic Rail Pass (tel. 0800/872-467 in NZ; www.tranzscenic.co.nz), which enables you to discover New Zealand by train at your own pace and includes one ferry crossing (7-day Tranz Scenic Rail Pass costs NZ$420; a 14-day pass costs $530).

The train routes and their fares are as follows:

• Auckland-Wellington: The Overlander has reclining seats and a licensed buffet car that serves drinks and food. A Super Saver fare costs NZ$125; if you miss out on one of those, check online for other good specials. You get informative commentary as you pass through many scenic highlights. Hostesses and stewards supply newspapers, magazines, and beverage service.

• Christchurch-Picton: The TranzCoastal passes through dramatic landscapes for 5 1/2 hours; the economy one-way fare is NZ$88 and you can choose to stop off in Kaikoura for a spot of whale-watching. There is also an excellent value standard through-fare available for NZ$150, which takes you from Wellington to Christchurch (or vice versa) and includes an Interislander ferry fare.

• Christchurch-Greymouth: The TranzAlpine is the best of the lot. It goes through the unforgettable landscape of Arthur's Pass National Park, depositing you 4 1/2 hours later in Greymouth. The standard return fare is NZ$250, but look out for specials online. Day excursions are also available on these routes.

Tips for Families

New Zealand offers some of the most exciting vacation opportunities for families with kids. Hiking, swimming, sailing, and whale-watching are only a few of the activities children of all ages can enjoy. A day at the beach may well end up being one of their best memories, and you won't have to pay a cent for the pleasure. All cities and towns also have free parks, walkways, and children's playgrounds; and if you're here in summer, swimming pool complexes in most towns make for a fun, inexpensive day out for all the family.

Make sure you ask at all visitor centers for advice on the best kids' attractions. Also ask about specific summer holiday festivals and kids' activities. Many of these are short-term, one-off events that could be the very thing to ease the family stresses that come with traveling with children.

Older, more adventurous kids will no doubt love caving, rafting, kayaking, and bungy jumping, although some activities do have minimum age limits, especially in Queenstown. Most sightseeing attractions admit children at half-price, and family prices are usually available.

Although many of the better B&Bs and upmarket lodges do not accommodate children, motels and farmstays are ideal for families. Both are usually cheaper, motel rooms are regularly equipped with cooking facilities, and children will enjoy roaming the fields and helping out on a working farm.

Tips for Single Travelers

New Zealand is a perfectly safe place for traveling solo, although I assume that everyone will act with common sense in terms of personal safety and late-night wanderings. (And of course, you won't want to take off on a long trek into the mountains on your own.) Some accommodations charge significantly less for one person than for two. All rates listed in this guide are for doubles, so be sure to ask about single rates if you intend to travel alone.

On package vacations, single travelers are often hit with a "single supplement" to the base price. To avoid it, you can agree to room with other single travelers or find a compatible roommate before you go, from a roommate-locator agency.

Many reputable tour companies offer singles-only trips. Singles Travel International (tel. 877/765-6874; www.singlestravelintl.com) offers singles-only escorted tours to New Zealand.

New Zealand operators like Kiwi Experience (www.kiwiexperience.com) and the Magic Travellers network (www.magicbus.co.nz) have changed the face of singles travel in New Zealand. Their hop-on-and-hop-off bus tours of New Zealand are geared specifically toward backpacker culture, loads of fun, spontaneity, and great deals. Mostly filled with travelers in their 20s and 30s, they're a terrific way to meet people and make new friends as you travel - and isn't that half the fun of travel?

For a small-group experience, Let's Trek Australia (www.letstrekaustralia.com) is a partnership of small group and singles adventure specialists working together throughout Australia and New Zealand. Relaxing Journeys (www.relaxingjourneys.co.nz) specializes in small, escorted tours - including self-drive tours, cruises, and coach trips -- for independent travelers. You can also find information and useful tips at www.independenttraveler.com and www.solotravel.org.

Staying Connected

Internet & Wi-Fi

Without Your Own Computer -- To find cybercafes in New Zealand, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

Aside from formal cybercafes, most youth hostels have at least one computer you can use for Internet access. Most public libraries in New Zealand offer Internet access free, or for a small charge, as do many i-SITE visitor centers. All cities and most larger towns have retail Internet providers, and these can be easily found by asking at the visitor center. Avoid hotel business centers, unless access to them is included in your rates; otherwise, you'll find yourself paying an additional charge to use it. Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their gates.

With Your Own Computer -- More and more hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers are going Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) and becoming "hot spots" that offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a fee for usage. Most upscale accommodations and many B&Bs in New Zealand offer a free high-speed or Wi-Fi service, but for those that charge for the service, the rates can be excessive (say, NZ$35 for a 24-hour period). From my own experience, check hotel Internet fees before signing on. If you only want to check your e-mail, you're better off paying a mere NZ$5 to NZ$6 for an hour's computer use at a retail Internet provider. Most towns on the main tourist beat have at least two or three such retailers, and information centers will point you in the right direction.

Most laptops sold today have built-in wireless capability. To find public Wi-Fi hot spots at your destination, go to www.jiwire.com; its Global Wi-Fi Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hot spots. The New Zealand Yellow Pages telephone directories also list wireless and Internet hot spots under "Internet Service." There are also some New Zealand listings at www.laptopfriendlycafes.com.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters (the voltage is 230 volts in New Zealand, and plugs are the three-prong type), a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable. Connectivity is often poor in more remote provincial areas.

Mobile Phones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In the U.S., T-Mobile, AT&T Wireless, and Cingular use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM; and all Europeans and most Australians and New Zealanders use GSM.

If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable phone such as many (but not all) Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across civilized areas on much of the globe, from Andorra to Uganda. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high. New Zealanders, it should be noted, currently pay some of the highest cellphone usage charges in the world.

In New Zealand, the two main telecommunications providers are Telecom, which operates on an 800 megahertz frequency, and Vodafone, which operates on a 900 megahertz frequency. If your own cellphone is able to operate within either of those frequencies, your best-value option is to bring it with you and purchase a local SIM card when you get here.

You'll get good cellphone coverage in most urban areas in New Zealand, but be prepared for "black holes" where there is no coverage at all. These areas are usually off the beaten track and are too numerous to list. Thankfully, you seldom have to travel far before coverage resumes. The West Coast, Arthur's Pass, parts of Eastland, and parts of the far south are notorious for weaker coverage.

True wilderness adventurers should consider renting a satellite phone. Per-minute call charges can be even cheaper than roaming charges with a regular cellphone, but the phone itself is more expensive (up to $150 a week), and depending on the service you choose, people calling you may incur high long-distance charges.

Cellphone rental is not always cheap, and there is only one cellphone rental provider within New Zealand - Vodafone - so you can't shop around. If you wish to rent a cellphone for your trip, you need to call at the Vodafone Rental shop at either Auckland International Airport or Christchurch International Airport. The base rental rate for less than 1 week is NZ$8 per day. For more than 1 week it's NZ$4 per day, or NZ$30 per week. On top of that you pay a call rate of NZ90¢ per minute anytime, anywhere within New Zealand. International calls will cost more. You can check details at www.vodarent.co.nz.

Two good wireless rental companies outside of New Zealand are InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) and RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1606 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). Give them your itinerary, and they'll tell you what wireless products you need. InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas; simply call tel. 703/222-7161 between 9am and 4pm EST, or go to www.intouchglobal.com/travel.htm.

Telephones

To call New Zealand from another country:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K. or Ireland; or 0011 from Australia.

2. Dial the country code, 64.

3. Dial the area code (for example, 03, 09, or 06, but without the zero) known as STD (subscriber toll dialing), and then the number.

To call long distance within New Zealand: First dial the STD -- 09 for Auckland and Northland, 07 for the Thames Valley, 06 for the east coast and Wanganui, 04 for Wellington, or 03 for the South Island -- and then the local number. (If you're calling from outside New Zealand, omit the zero.) There are three main kinds of public telephones in New Zealand: card phones, credit card phones, and coin phones. Magnetic strip phone cards for public phones can be purchased from supermarkets, post offices, dairies, and service stations.

To make international calls: To make international calls from New Zealand, first dial tel. 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61). Next dial the area code and number.

The most economical way to make international phone calls from New Zealand is to charge them to an international calling card (available free from your long-distance company at home). All calls, even international ones, can be made from public phone booths. (Long-distance calls made from your hotel or motel often have hefty surcharges added.) You can also call home using Country Direct numbers. They are 000-911 for the U.S.; 000-944 for British Telecom (operator); 000-912 for British Telecom (automatic); 000-940 for UK Mercury; 000-919 for Canada; 000-996 for Australia-Optus; and 000-961 for Australia-Telstra.

For directory assistance within New Zealand: Dial tel. 018. For operator assistance within New Zealand, dial tel. 010.

For international operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial tel. 0170; for directory assistance for an international call, dial tel. 0172.

Remember that calling a 1-800 or toll-free number in your country from New Zealand is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Special-Interest Vacations

Food & Wine Trips

A bounty of fresh ingredients, limitless supplies of fine wine, and a growing appreciation of both have meant a proliferation of small, boutique cooking schools in New Zealand. Daylong or weekend classes are the main focus. One of the best is Ruth Pretty Cooking School, 41 School Rd., Te Horo, north of Wellington (tel. 06/364-3161; www.ruthpretty.co.nz), which offers classes most weekends from February through December. Lessons from Ruth and invited top chefs culminate in long, outdoor lunches. Private classes are also available.

Auckland Seafood School, First Floor, Auckland Fish Market, 22 Jellicoe St., Freemans Bay, Auckland (tel. 09/379-1497; www.afm.co.nz), holds regular short courses in its state-of-the-art facility that includes a 66-seat auditorium and a kitchen with eight self-contained cooking stations. From barbecue to traditional French, Vietnamese, or classical recipes, it's all about fish. Also in Auckland, Main Course, 20 Beaumont St., Auckland (tel. 09/302-1460; www.maincourse.co.nz), offers courses in everything from seafood and vegetarian to gluten-free and Italian cooking.

In Christchurch, Celia Hay's New Zealand School of Food & Wine, 63 Victoria St., Christchurch (tel. 03/379-7501; www.foodandwine.co.nz), has a well-earned reputation for turning out accomplished hospitality graduates. The school runs full-time 16-week courses in cookery, restaurant and cafe management, and professional wine knowledge. It has an associated award-winning restaurant. Forty-five minutes northwest of Christchurch, in the tiny town of Oxford, you'll find consummate cookbook writer and chef Jo Seagar. Seagars at Oxford (www.joseagar.com) offer various 1-day cooking courses that cover several cooking styles and cuisines. There is also a superb kitchenware shop and Jo's very popular cafe.

In Queenstown, Kia Toa Cuisine, at Punatapu Lodge (tel. 03/442-6985; www.cuisinequeenstown.com or www.punatapu.com), offers specialized, short-term classes in a luxury lodge environment. The focus is always on New Zealand produce. The courses may include foraging for wild foods or visits to farmers' markets, wineries, orchards, local restaurants, and high country sheep stations.

You'll find details of local wine tours in each regional guide. In addition, you should arm yourself with the Classic New Zealand Wine Trail Guide and the Jasons Taste Traveller guide, both free from all i-SITE visitor centers around the country.

Volunteering & Working

If you wish to work in New Zealand during your trip, you need to acquire a working holiday permit. Details of visa and work permit requirements can be found at the New Zealand Immigration website, www.immigration.govt.nz. There are usually plenty of short-term working opportunities, especially in the summer when orchards, market gardens, and vineyards often need casual workers. The New Zealand hospitality industry usually employs large numbers of working tourists as well. That said, the current global recession has impacted the availability of jobs, so make sure you do your research before landing here. Additional job sites include www.seek.co.nz, www.nzrecruitme.co.nz, www.anyworkanywhere.com, www.jobstuff.co.nz, and www.jobzone.co.nz. The New Zealand immigration website lists many more links to specialized agricultural, horticultural, ski, hospitality, or general jobs.

Personally, I think there are far more interesting jobs available in the volunteer arena. Admittedly, you don't earn money while you're working, but you will take home the intense satisfaction of knowing you have helped others while enjoying a rewarding, personal experience. Many organizations offer volunteer positions within New Zealand. The Global Volunteer Network operates in many countries, including New Zealand. Their comprehensive website, www.volunteer.org.nz, details their programs, which include assistance to conservation groups and conservation projects within New Zealand. Volunteers are involved in habitat restoration, predator control projects, tree planting, invasive weed removal, monitoring re-vegetation growth rates, and more. Working within a kiwi sanctuary to help preserve our national icon must be rated as a rare and privileged experience. This program is based in Wellington, and you need to be moderately fit, proficient in English, and 18 and over to participate.

Volunteering New Zealand (tel. 0800/865-268; www.volunteernow.org.nz) focuses on putting the age, wisdom, and acquired experience of those from age 55 to 65 to good use. Their website features an Opportunities Page that lists volunteer positions for these "young seniors" who may have retired from the workforce but still have much to give to community welfare. Volunteer Abroad (www.volunteerabroad.com) lists numerous opportunities to take part in interesting community projects, from conservation work to educational and outdoor leadership courses. Other good websites to check are www.conservationvolunteers.org.nz, www.transitionsabroad.com, www.unitedplanet.org, www.geovisions.org, www.wwoof.co.nz, www.greenhearttravel.org, and www.partnershipvolunteers.org.

When to Go

New Zealand is in the Southern Hemisphere; therefore, all seasons are the opposite of those in North America, Europe, and other Northern Hemisphere locations.

There really isn't a bad time to travel to New Zealand. Keep in mind, though, that most Kiwi families take their main annual holidays between mid-December and the end of January, which puts enormous pressure on accommodations in major summer beach destinations. During the Easter break and school holidays in April, June to July, and September to October, it also pays to reserve well in advance.

Remember, too, that accommodations at ski destinations like Ohakune, National Park, Methven near Mount Hutt, Wanaka, and Queenstown fill up quickly - reserve early and be prepared to pay higher winter rates. In most other areas, though, you'll be paying lower rates during the winter months (Apr-Aug). In some summer-peak areas, the winter also means that tour, lodge, and adventure operators may take advantage of lower tourist numbers and take their own holiday breaks, closing their businesses for 1- to 3-month periods.

Dialing the Weather -- In New Zealand, call Metservice at tel. 0900/999 followed by your New Zealand area code to hear the current and expected weather conditions for the region you are in. Calls cost NZ$1.99 per minute including GST. You can also visit the Metservice website, www.metservice.co.nz, for further details, or check their blog, http://blog.metservice.com/, for the latest updates.

New Zealand's climate, especially by Northern Hemisphere standards, is pretty mellow for much of the year. You'll find a far greater seasonal difference in the South Island than in the subtropical North, and don't believe anyone who says it never gets cold here or that there are no extremes. In Central Otago, winter temperatures are often 14°F (-10°C) and sometimes as low as -4°F (-20°C), with summers up to 100°F to 104°F (38°C-40°C). By comparison, the northern part of the North Island is subtropical. That means lots of winter/spring rain, and often daily light showers.

The west coast of the South Island can get up to 100 inches or more of rain a year on its side of the Southern Alps, while just over the mountains to the east, rainfall is a moderate 20 to 30 inches annually. Rain is also heavier on the west coast of the North Island, averaging 40 to 70 inches annually. Milford Sound, though, beats the lot; it's the wettest place in the country, with a phenomenal 365 inches of rain a year.

The Seasons

Spring (Sept, Oct, Nov) -- This is a beautiful time to visit - the countryside is flush with new green grass, baby lambs, and blooming trees. Christchurch in the spring means blossoms, bluebells, and daffodils in abundance; Dunedin is a splurge of rhododendron color. The weather can still be very changeable right up to mid-October, so come prepared with light rain gear. In the South Island, it's still perfectly normal to get late snowfalls in September.

Summer (Dec, Jan, Feb) -- This is peak tourist season, so you'll pay top dollar for accommodations and airfares. Book early to avoid disappointment -- this also applies to the major walking tracks, such as Milford, for which you should make bookings 6 months ahead. The country's beaches come alive, and boaties flock to the water. Fresh fruit is falling off the trees. (You must try Central Otago cherries and apricots; the apple district is Hawke's Bay.) Everyone should see Central Otago when the lupines are flowering, with brilliant colors etched against blue skies and golden tussock.

Autumn (Mar, Apr, May) -- I think the best time to visit is February through April. The temperatures are pleasant (still hot in Feb in most parts), and even in April you'll be wearing summer clothes in the upper North Island. The most spectacular autumn colors are found in Queenstown, Central Otago, and Christchurch. Keep Easter and April school holidays in mind, though, when lodgings may be tight in some areas.

Winter (June, July, Aug) -- If you're a skier, you'll be heading to Queenstown, Mount Hutt, Canterbury, or the Central Plateau in the North Island - and paying top dollar for the privilege. Otherwise, if you travel elsewhere during this period, you won't need to prebook much at all (except during the July school holidays). You'll find some excellent rates - just don't expect great things from the weather.

Holidays

National public holidays include New Year's Day (Jan 1), New Year's Holiday (Jan 2), Waitangi Day (Feb 6), Good Friday (varies), Easter and Easter Monday (varies), ANZAC Day (Apr 25), Queen's Birthday (first Mon in June), Labour Day (last Mon in Oct), Christmas Day (Dec 25), and Boxing Day (Dec 26).

Regional holidays include Wellington (Jan 22), Auckland (Jan 29), Northland (Jan 29), Nelson Region (Feb 1), Otago (Mar 23), Southland (Mar 23), Taranaki (Mar 31), Hawke's Bay (Nov 1), Marlborough (Nov 1), Westland (Dec 1), and Canterbury (Dec 16). Regional holidays are always observed on a Monday. If the date lands on a Friday or weekend, the holiday is observed on the following Monday. If it falls earlier in the week, it is observed on the preceding Monday.

School holidays: Four school terms are observed. Dates may vary, but as a guide Term 1 is January 27 to April 3. Term 2 is April 20 to July 3. Term 3 is July 20 to September 26. Term 4 (summer term) is October 12 to December 17 Dates can vary between schools, but the longest holiday period is December to January, when NZ families also take a summer holiday.

Tips for Student Travelers

The International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC) (www.istc.org) was formed in 1949 to make travel around the world more affordable for students. Check out its website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. The New Zealand headquarters is at 10 High St., Auckland (tel. 09/309-0458). The ISIC card is also accepted by many New Zealand tourism operators including hotels, bars, transport providers, theaters, major attractions, and tour companies. The ISIC website lists New Zealand operators offering discounts.

If you're no longer a student but are still 25 and under, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students can try USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in youth travel.

Health & Insurance

Health

Before You Go -- Vaccinations are not required to enter New Zealand. Health insurance is strongly advised because New Zealand's public and private medical/hospital facilities are not free to visitors, except as a result of accident. Make sure your health insurance covers you when you're out of the country; if it doesn't, get temporary medical coverage for the duration of your trip. Be sure to carry your identification card in your wallet.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

It is advisable to bring any of your current prescription drug requirements with you -- but be sure to carry a prescription note from your doctor. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. It is not necessary to pack anti-diarrheal and/or anti-emetic products as these are available over-the-counter in New Zealand pharmacies -- as are most generic prescription drugs for common problems like headaches, coughs, fevers, and influenza.

Following are some ailments to be aware of:

• Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- You've heard that New Zealand is a relatively safe place? Believe it! We have no snakes, no alligators or crocodiles, no wild animals of note, no scorpions. The worst we can offer you is our poisonous katipo spider, but because you're about as likely to see one of those, much less be bitten, as you are to encounter a bison in the main street of Auckland, I wouldn't start panicking just yet.

  But knowledge is power, so here are the spidery details. The New Zealand katipo - Latrodectus katipo and L. atritus (yes, there are two species) -- favors sparsely vegetated sand dunes and driftwood above the high-tide mark on sandy beaches. L. katipo is distinguished by the coloration of the adult female: black with a red stripe on the abdomen. The mature male is about one-sixth the size of the female and is predominantly white with a series of orange-red triangles and black lines on the abdomen. L. atritus is completely black.

  Both species are poisonous, but they are rarely seen. And given that New Zealand is a nation of beach-lovers, it is comforting to know that there have only been two recorded fatalities, both in the 1800s - largely unconvincing evidence of toxic spiders. If, in the unlikely event that you are bitten by something black while on the beach, try to have the presence of mind to capture the offender and then take yourself off to the nearest hospital.

  Heading inland, especially in the deep south around Fiordland, Te Anau, and up the South Island's West Coast, the biggest irritation will be sand flies. They may be tiny, but they have the power to drive you absolutely crazy. Take gallons of strong insect repellent, and keep dousing yourself in it. If you still get bitten, try not to scratch and ladle on plenty of antihistamine to prevent swelling. The good news is that not everybody suffers. I'm one of the lucky ones - sand flies don't seem to like my blood. You'll just have to hope you're as unattractive to them as I am.

• Environmental Hazards -- The ocean holds its fair share of dangers. Most popular New Zealand beaches are patrolled by lifeguards, and you should always swim between the flags. Ask if you're unsure, because many beaches have dangerous currents and holes. In more remote areas, beaches are not patrolled, and you should exercise common sense before entering the waves. This particularly applies to the hazardous west coast beaches of the whole country. You'll notice most New Zealanders swim on the much safer east coast beaches and seldom on any west coast beaches. I would strongly advise against swimming on any west coast beaches unless they have lifesaving patrols on duty. Never swim alone anywhere.

  On the subject of beaches, it's important to point out the danger of sharks. Always check with the locals as to the possibility of sharks in the ocean. As we all know, the threat of being attacked can never be underestimated.

  As with beaches, mountain and bush safety should be a matter of common sense, but you would be amazed at how many people think they know better than the locals, setting off on a bush walk with no warm clothing (just because the sun is shining at the beginning is no guarantee that it will be farther on), no extra water, and no precautionary measures taken whatsoever. Hypothermia, exposure, and excessive sunburn are very real dangers in New Zealand, and you take your life in your hands if you ignore warnings. Every year we read the news reports of some international visitors who have ignored the warning and ventured into the mountains ill-prepared, and have never returned. Some have never been found.

  Take very particular note of rain warnings if you're going into the mountains. Most New Zealand rivers rise very quickly, especially in the South Island, and many people have drowned trying to cross swiftly flowing, flooded rivers.

• Dietary Distress -- The only thing to look out for in the bush is the possibility of Giardia, a waterborne parasite that causes diarrhea. Always boil water when you're hiking. Closer to civilization, do take particular care in summer that all food is kept cool, especially chicken, eggs, and meat products. I'm sad to report that studies have shown that New Zealand has the highest incidence of Campylobacter in the developed world. Over 75,000 New Zealanders get stomach upsets as a result of these bacteria every year, so take care. Like Salmonella (also relatively common here), it is usually associated with poor hygiene and contaminated food products. Always eat fresh food, make sure all chicken is thoroughly cooked, and always wash your hands before eating. Food poisoning is usually indicated by symptoms like diarrhea, abdominal cramps, fever, nausea, vomiting, headaches, and muscle aches. Most people recover without treatment in a few days, but if symptoms persist, you should see a doctor.

What to Do if You Get Sick Away From Home -- Almost all New Zealand cities and many smaller towns have a general hospital or emergency medical facilities, and the standard of medical care in New Zealand is excellent. Obviously, the bigger the city, the better the facilities, with Auckland, Hamilton, Wellington, Christchurch, and Dunedin having the most, the biggest, and the best facilities. As a visitor you will pay for any hospital or medical care, unless you are admitted via an accident situation. Most cities also have a 24-hour doctor and pharmacy facility for filling urgent prescriptions.

Very few health insurance plans pay for medical evacuation back to the U.S. (which can cost $10,000 and up). A number of companies offer medical evacuation services anywhere in the world. If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice virtually anywhere in the world in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are $225 individual, $350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

U.K. nationals will need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) to receive free or reduced-costs health benefits during a visit to a European Economic Area (EEA) country (European Union countries plus Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway) or Switzerland. The European Health Insurance Card replaces the E111 form, which is no longer valid. For advice, ask at your local post office or see www.dh.gov.uk/travellers.

Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Insurance

Purchase travel insurance before you come to New Zealand, so that you'll be covered for any unexpected medical expenses and lost belongings. For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Tips on Accommodations

Unfortunately, there's nothing standard about accommodations rates here; what you get for NZ$150 can be much better than something for two or three times the price. My advice: Ask around, visit websites for photographs, and don't assume that all places in the same price range offer the same standard of accommodations. (They probably do in the Expensive range, but certainly not in the Moderate and Inexpensive categories.)

New Zealand tourism's official mark of quality, Qualmark (www.qualmark.co.nz), has now been applied to all accommodations types and tourism businesses. This means they have been independently assessed as professional and trustworthy and graded one star (acceptable), two stars (good), three stars (very good), four stars (excellent), and five stars (exceptional, among the best in New Zealand). Each business has undergone a rigorous assessment and licensing process to receive the Qualmark designation.

However, you should realize that - according to this Qualmark system - a three-star hotel is not the same as a three-star B&B or a three-star lodge, and that a five-star B&B is not the same as a five-star hotel. Each category of accommodations is assessed on different criteria.

It is also worth noting that many accommodations operators have little faith in this rating system because it's voluntary and not all properties have been assessed. There is particular discontent at the top end of the market, where operators are disillusioned that star ratings are being applied to businesses that are already self-regulated.

If you would like more information when you arrive in New Zealand, pick up the free Qualmark Accommodation Guide from information centers (or order it at www.qualmark.co.nz); it lists all participating hotels, motels, B&Bs, backpackers, campgrounds, and tourism businesses.

Note that New Zealand now has an across-the-board legal ban on smoking in public buildings. That includes hotels and restaurants. Therefore, you should assume that accommodations listed throughout this guide have adopted a nonsmoking policy. It is also a legal requirement that all public buildings have access for travelers with disabilities. You should therefore assume that properties reviewed in this guide offer rooms with access for travelers with disabilities, although in the case of B&Bs it will pay to double-check before booking.

There is a multitude of lodging options available in New Zealand - here's a rundown on what you'll find. Price ranges are based on the following scale: Inexpensive (up to NZ$150); Moderate (NZ$151-NZ$300); Expensive (NZ$301-NZ$650); and Very Expensive (NZ$651 and up).

Hotels

A hotel generally provides a licensed bar and restaurant, and guest rooms do not usually have cooking facilities. In New Zealand, "hotel" refers to modern tourist hotels, including the big international chains and older public-licensed hotels generally found in provincial areas. The latter are completely different from the former.

The country hotel, or pub, offers inexpensive to moderate accommodations of a modest nature. It's often noisy and old-fashioned with shared bathrooms down the hall. There are definitely exceptions, with upgrading a big trend in popular tourist areas. One way or another, they're usually rich in character.

Modern hotels come in all price levels. Several big international chains have two or three grades of hotels, and you can get exceptionally good deals if you book with the same chain throughout the country. In major tourist centers such as Queenstown, competition is fierce and good prices can be found. In major corporate destinations such as Auckland and Wellington, rates will be considerably higher during the week, with weekends bringing superb specials.

Apartments

In the last several years, apartment-style accommodations have sprouted up in New Zealand like mushrooms on a damp day. Some have been added to existing hotels but most are free-standing complexes. If you'd like to stay in a modern apartment I suggest you contact one of the following first-class operators. Touch of Spice, Queenstown (www.touchofspice.co.nz; tel. 03/442-8672), has been rated by Condé Nast Traveler as 1 of only 49 villa rental agents worldwide best qualified to match its readers with suitable holiday properties. This meticulous concierge and luxury lifestyle specialist offers a range of 30 luxury properties from inner-city apartments to country hideaways and private island retreats - all featuring modern furnishings and five-star quality, and full staff if required. New Zealand Apartments (www.nzapartments.co.nz; tel. 0800/692-727) has a catalog of 48 stylish apartments in 33 locations nationwide. Most are under 10 years old and go for unbelievably good prices. They're serviced on demand and all have on-site managers to welcome you.

Motels & Motor Inns

A motel unit is self-contained and usually has cooking facilities, a bathroom, and one or two bedrooms. A motor inn often has a restaurant on the premises. Don't assume that New Zealand motels are the same as those you find in, say, the United States. There has been a major shake-up of standards in the motel industry, and many motels and motor inns are superior to some hotels. Look for the Qualmark sign of quality, which is prominently displayed on signs and promotional material. If you aim for four- and five-star properties I'm sure you'll be happy. New Zealand Luxury Motels (www.nzluxurymotels.co.nz; tel. 0800/692-727) can save you a lot of time. They have 23 top-end motels nationwide on their books -- 15 of them built in the last few years to the highest specifications.

Bed & Breakfasts

As the name suggests, B&B rates include bed and breakfast, but it's often difficult to tell the difference between a bed-and-breakfast, a homestay, a farmstay, a guesthouse, a lodge, and a boutique hotel. B&B operators seem to be using a plethora of terms to describe much the same thing. Suffice it to say, in all of the above, that the key advantage is interaction with New Zealanders.

Homestays and bed-and-breakfasts are pretty much the same thing, but the variation in quality within both can be disconcerting - you'll find both the ludicrously cheap and the ludicrously expensive, and price is not necessarily an indicator of what you'll get. Homestays tend to be more family oriented and modest, especially in rural areas and provincial towns. Be prepared to simply get a bed in a family home. B&Bs, on the other hand, can be as down-market or as upmarket as you're prepared to pay; some rival the best hotels for quality.

I strongly advise you to check websites, or wait until you're in New Zealand to purchase one of the numerous B&B guides. Look for The New Zealand Bed & Breakfast Book, which illustrates every property in color. Heritage & Character Inns of New Zealand (www.heritageinns.co.nz) is another good source; it details about 90 of the country's best B&Bs in heritage homes. Ask for brochures at visitor centers.

You can safely assume that farmstays are located on farms. They present an ideal opportunity to get a feel for New Zealand's rural life. Several organizations will put you in touch with a reliable farmstay; two of them are Accommodation New Zealand (www.accommodation-new-zealand.co.nz; tel. 09/444-4895 or 03/487-8420), and Hospitality Plus, the New Zealand Home & Farmstay Company (www.hospitalityplus.co.nz; tel. 03/693-7463; fax 03/693-7462).

Guesthouses generally offer good value: modest rooms at modest prices. You can check out a selection of them with New Zealand's Federation of Bed & Breakfast Hotels, Inc., 52 Armagh St., Christchurch (www.nzbnbhotels.com; tel. 03/358-6928; fax 03/355-0291).

Country Lodges

Many establishments call themselves "lodges" when, strictly speaking, they don't meet lodge criteria as defined by the New Zealand Lodge Association. In the truest sense, country lodges in New Zealand are small and highly individual, with 4 to 20 bedrooms. They're fully licensed and have an all-inclusive tariff. They generally offer the very best of everything, including fine dining (three- to five-course dinners). The unspoken factors are the degree of exclusivity that exceeds B&Bs and the degree of personalized service and pampering that exceeds most hotels. For information, go to www.lodgesofnz.co.nz. A luxury accommodations category was also added to the Qualmark program in 2003.

Holiday Homes 

When they're not being used by their owners, holiday homes can be rented by the night or for longer periods. Known as baches in the North Island and cribs in the South Island, they are a good value for independent travelers. You can buy Baches & Holiday Homes to Rent, which details over 500 properties, from bookstores or the Automobile Association, 99 Albert St., Auckland (tel. 09/966-8800); 343 Lambton Quay, Wellington (tel. 04/931-9999); or 205 Hills Rd., Shirley, Christchurch (tel. 03/386-1090). For a wider variety - cozy cottages to super-luxury homes - contact New Zealand Vacation Homes (www.nzvacationhomes.co.nz), which lists self-catering properties throughout the country. In the Auckland area, pick up a copy of the free brochure Bach Escapes from visitor centers, produced by the Auckland Regional Council (www.arc.govt.nz/bachescapes).

Hostels

Hostels are generally frequented by backpackers, but most welcome people of all ages and have single and double rooms as well as dorms. They have shared facilities (some have en-suite bathrooms) and communal lounges and kitchens; some have cafes and/or bars.

You can get more information by contacting the following: YHA New Zealand National Reservations Centre (tel. 03/379-9808; fax 03/379-4415; www.yha.co.nz), which has hostels open 24 hours a day that do not impose curfews or duties; Budget Backpacker Hostels New Zealand (tel. 03/379-3014; www.bbh.co.nz) lists over 300 hostels around the country; and VIP Backpacker Resorts of New Zealand (tel. 09/827-6016; fax 09/827-6013; www.vip.co.nz) is supported by over 60 hostels. Nomads (tel. 0800/666-237; www.nomadsworld.com) offers hostel accommodations at 16 sites.

Motor Camps & Holiday Parks

These properties have communal kitchens, toilets, showers, and laundries, and a variety of accommodations from campsites and cabins to flats and backpacker-style lodges. They are very popular with New Zealand holidaymakers during the summer months, so make sure you book ahead. They make an ideal base if you are traveling by motor home. Two organizations to contacts are Top 10 Holiday Parks (www.top10.co.nz; tel. 0800/867-836 in NZ; fax 03/377-9950) and Holiday Accommodation Parks New Zealand (www.holidayparks.co.nz; tel. 04/298-3283).

En Suites

In New Zealand, the term en-suite bathroom refers to a bathroom incorporated within the bedroom. A private bathroom refers to a bathroom outside the bedroom, which is used exclusively by the guests of one room. A shared bathroom is a communal bathroom used by all guests in the establishment. Many accommodations within New Zealand have en-suite bathrooms, but it still pays to request them in B&Bs and backpacker establishments, many of which still have shared or private bathrooms.

Tips on Shopping

You won't be short of opportunities to find take-home souvenirs of your trip to New Zealand. Gift and souvenir shops abound in every city, and most major attractions, museums, and art galleries also have their own stores. Their shelves bulge with all the iconic New Zealand gifts -- woolen products of every sort, from clothing to floor rugs; kiwis, sheep, and penguins in every size and shape; a growing range of excellent skin-care and cosmetic products; New Zealand-brand sports clothing; some packaged food products (chocolates, honey, sweets); and a plethora of Maori souvenirs.

For high quality, genuine Maori products, you should only purchase items from quality art galleries and gift stores, and preferably items bearing the toi iho" trademark, which is used to promote authentic Maori crafts in New Zealand. Many Maori items on display in mainstream souvenir shops have been made en masse in Asia. I would suggest you purchase any Maori items from places like Auckland Museum, Te Papa in Wellington, and from authentic craftsmen in the Rotorua and Gisborne areas, so you can be sure you have the genuine article.

Pounamu, or greenstone, is only found (in its raw state) in the South Island, so that's the best place to buy it -- specifically in Hokitika on the West Coast. Again, much of the greenstone for sale in New Zealand has been imported from Asia, so make sure you purchase from top quality stores and galleries. In places like Hokitika, you can actually watch the craftsmen carving greenstone.

If you're buying New Zealand wine, ask the winery if they will pack and send your precious cargo home for you -- if they don't, they will be able to recommend someone who does. That way you don't have to carry it all around the country with you. A number of wine merchants also offer this service.

Nelson is an excellent place to purchase New Zealand crafts of all kinds, especially fine handblown glass, pottery, woodwork, and jewelry. The Nelson Visitor Centre has a comprehensive guide to all local galleries and artisans, many of whom can be visited in their private studios.

If you'd like to take home some of our fine woolen casual and sports clothing, a few top names to look out for are Kathmandu, Icebreaker, Canterbury Sport, Wild South, and Untouched World. Most are available nationwide in quality stores selling New Zealand goods and/or sports clothing, but you'll find them all within reasonable proximity of each other in central Christchurch.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The area code for New Zealand is 64. Within New Zealand, the following area codes should be added if dialing from outside each of the areas: Auckland and Northland, 09; Coromandel Peninsula, Waikato, Bay of Plenty, Rotorua, Taupo, 07; Tongariro National Park, Gisborne, Hawke's Bay, Taranaki, Wanganui, Wairarapa, 06; Wellington, 04; and the whole of the South Island, 03.

Business Hours -- Banks are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 4:30pm. Shops are usually open Monday through Thursday from 9am (sometimes 8am) to 5:30pm, and until 9pm on either Thursday or Friday. Increasingly, shops are open all day Saturday; many shops are also open all day Sunday, with others closing between noon and 4pm.

Doctors -- If you need to visit a doctor, your hotel or accommodation provider can put you in touch with local services. Emergency doctors are also listed in the Fast Facts section of each destination. If your condition is severe and urgent, go straight to the nearest hospital Accident & Emergency (A&E) department, or call an ambulance. Be aware though, that New Zealand A&E departments are usually extremely busy and under-staffed and you may have to wait several hours. Unless your life is under threat, it is always best to consult an emergency doctor first.

Drinking Laws -- The minimum drinking age is 18 in pubs and proof of age may be required, so make sure you carry some form of photo ID. Children are allowed in pubs with their parents, but they cannot be served alcohol. Beer and wine can be purchased from most supermarkets and from liquor stores. Wine can also be purchased from specialty wine shops and wineries. The closing time for hotels and bars varies - some have longer liquor licenses than others. In the main centers, most close between midnight and 2am, but some close at 3 or 4am. Some areas also observe complete liquor bans. Please take note of the signs and warnings or you will be arrested and fined heavily. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don't even think about driving while intoxicated, or you'll be fined heavily. New Zealand Police often stage random drug and alcohol testing on roads of major cities to stop drink-driving. You must stop on request and you will have to take a breath test.

Electricity -- The voltage is 230 volts in New Zealand, and plugs are of the flat, three-pronged variety (with the top two prongs angled). If you bring a hair dryer, it should be a dual-voltage one, and you'll need an adapter plug. Most motels and some B&Bs have built-in wall transformers for 110-volt, two-prong razors, but if you're going to be staying in hostels, cabins, homestays, or guesthouses, bring dual-voltage appliances.

Embassies & Consulates -- In Wellington, the capital city, you'll find the United States Embassy, the Canadian High Commission, and the British High Commission. In Auckland, you'll find consulates for the United States, Canada, Ireland, and the United Kingdom.

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 111 to contact the police, call an ambulance, or report a fire.

Language -- English is spoken by all New Zealanders. You'll hear Maori spoken on some TV and radio programs and in some Maori settlements. As New Zealand is officially a bicultural country, you'll also hear Maori words spoken in daily conversation.

Legal Aid -- While driving, if you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. International visitors should call their embassy or consulate.

New Zealand's Ministry of Foreign Affairs & Trade, 195 Lambton Quay, Wellington (tel. 04/439-8000; www.mfat.govt.nz), can assist with initial advice if you find yourself in trouble. If you need help, know that you don't have to be a New Zealand citizen, or living here permanently, to qualify for free legal aid. If you've been charged with a criminal offense - drink-driving, assault, theft, bribery, fraud, sexual or drug offenses, arson, or murder - but can't afford a lawyer, your legal fees may be paid by Criminal Legal Aid, which covers all lawyers' costs. Check Legal Services Agency (www.lsa.govt.nz), which has 11 regional offices: Auckland, Waitakere and Manukau (both within Auckland), Whangarei, Hamilton, Rotorua, New Plymouth, Napier, Wellington, Christchurch, and Dunedin.

Mail -- New Zealand post offices will receive mail and hold it for you for 1 month. Have the parcel addressed to you c/o Poste Restante at the Chief Post Office of the town you'll be visiting. It costs NZ$3 to send an airmail letter to the United States, Canada, United Kingdom, or Europe. Overseas postcards cost NZ$2. The postal service is very reliable. Send items Fast Post within New Zealand for a faster airmail service. Parcels and documents can also be sent by tracked post for extra security. Courier and tracked courier services both within New Zealand and to overseas destinations are faster and more secure, but tracked airmail packages are cheaper and just as secure. You can follow the progress of all tracked items on the New Zealand Post website, www.nzpost.co.nz.

Medical Requirements -- Unless you are arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic, inoculations or vaccinations are not required to enter New Zealand. If you are currently taking any prescription medicines for recognized medical conditions, it is wise to bring the dosage you'll require with you. Keep all drugs in original bottles and bring a cover letter from your doctor to show airport security staff if required. If you require needles, they'll be fine in the aircraft hold but if you need them during your flight you will need to make special arrangements.

Newspapers & Magazines -- All New Zealand newspapers are printed in English. In Auckland the main daily is the New Zealand Herald (www.nzherald.co.nz); in Wellington, The Dominion (www.stuff.co.nz/dompost); and for the South Island, The Christchurch Press (www.stuff.co.nz/the-press). The major weekend newspaper is the Sunday Star Times (www.stuff.co.nz/sunday-star-times). Most dairies, supermarkets, corner stores, bookstores, and petrol stations sell newspapers. Hotels and most other accommodation providers also offer their guests a newspaper delivery service. New Zealand produces numerous specialized and general lifestyle magazines, which can be found in bookstores and supermarkets.

Packing -- Regardless of the season, New Zealand weather can be very changeable. Even in summer, you will need to pack warm clothing and something weatherproof. This particularly applies if you are going walking, tramping, or mountaineering. Very few places have formal dress codes in New Zealand, requiring the use of jackets - perhaps just one or two of the luxury lodges; but in most cases, smart casual is perfectly acceptable. Many people do dress up if they are visiting high-end restaurants and bars, but this is optional. Some clubs, restaurants, and bars do not permit jeans. For more helpful information on packing for your trip, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Police -- The emergency number for New Zealand Police is 111; for non-emergencies, ring the local police number listed in the local phone directory. Police drive white vehicles with bright blue and orange markings. In addition to dealing with general crime, they also have the power to stop vehicles for speeding, traffic infringements, or for alcohol breath testing. Some also drive unmarked cars, so don't even think about breaking speed limits just because you can't see a white police vehicle.

Smoking -- Smoking is illegal in all public buildings in New Zealand, from hotels and offices to restaurants and bars. Many bars and restaurants now provide an outdoor area for smoking customers, but it is increasingly frowned upon.

Taxes -- There is a national 15% Goods and Services Tax (GST) that's applicable to everything. A departure tax of NZ$25 is assessed and can be paid by credit card or in cash in New Zealand currency.

Time -- New Zealand is located just west of the international date line, and its standard time is 12 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. Thus, when it's noon in New Zealand, it's 7:30am in Singapore, 9am in Tokyo, 10am in Sydney; and -- all the previous day -- 4pm in San Francisco, 7pm in New York, and midnight in London. In New Zealand, daylight saving time starts the first weekend in October and ends in mid-March. For help with time translations, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Tipping -- Most New Zealanders don't tip waitstaff unless they've received extraordinary service -- and then only 5% to 10%. Taxi drivers and porters are rarely tipped in this country. For help with tip calculations, currency conversions, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Toilets -- There are "public conveniences" strategically located in all cities and many towns. Local Plunket Rooms come with a "Mother's Room," where you can change your child's diapers. The Plunket Society is a state-subsidized organization that provides free baby care to all New Zealand families. You'll also find well signposted public toilets on the street in most towns and cities. They can also be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons.

Water -- New Zealand tap water is pollution-free and safe to drink. In the bush, you should boil, filter, or chemically treat water from rivers and lakes to avoid contracting Giardia (a waterborne parasite that causes diarrhea).

Calendar of Events

More information can be found by going to the Tourism New Zealand website at www.newzealand.com. For an exhaustive list of even more events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

ASB Bank Tennis Classic, Auckland. International women's tennis tour event preceding the Australian Open. Attracts leading overseas players. Call tel. 09/373-3623, or check www.asbclassic.co.nz. First week of January.

Heineken Open, Auckland. International Men's ATP tour for leading international tennis players. Call tel. 09/373-3623, or check www.heinekenopen.co.nz. Early January.

Auckland Anniversary Day Regatta, Auckland. "The City of Sails" hosts this colorful annual sailing event, which attracts both local and international competitors and spectators. Call tel. 0800/734-2882, or check www.regatta.org.nz. Last Monday in January.

World Buskers Festival, Christchurch. A week of zany street entertainment provided by leading entertainers. Call tel. 03/377-2365, or visit www.worldbuskersfestival.com. Mid- to late January.

Wellington Cup Race Meeting, Wellington. Leading horse-racing event (galloping), held in conjunction with the National Yearling Sales. Call tel. 04/528-9611, or check www.trentham.co.nz. Late January.

February

Hawke's Bay Wine and Food Festival, Hawke's Bay. A showcase of the region's world-class wines and good food. Call tel. 0508/946-326 in New Zealand, or check www.harvesthawkesbay.co.nz. First week of February.

Speight's Coast to Coast, South Island. A major multisport endurance race from Kumara on the West Coast to Sumner, Christchurch, featuring a 33km (20-mile) mountain run followed by a 67km (42-mile) kayak race and a 142km (88-mile) cycle dash. Call tel. 03/348-3282, or check www.coasttocoast.co.nz. February 5-6.

Waitangi Day Celebrations, Bay of Islands. New Zealand's national day celebrating the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi. Call tel. 09/402-7308. February 6.

Garden City Festival of Flowers, Christchurch. Ten days of garden visits, floating gardens, and floral carpets in the "Garden City." Call tel. 03/365-5403, or visit www.festivalofflowers.co.nz. Mid-February.

Brebner Art Deco Weekend, Napier. A fun celebration of the city's Art Deco heritage that includes dancing, jazz, vintage cars, walks, and tours. Most participants dress in 1920s and 1930s fashions. Call tel. 06/835-0022, or check www.artdeconapier.com. Third weekend in February.

Devonport Food and Wine Festival, Devonport. Held near the Ferry Wharf in this picturesque Auckland village, the festival includes jazz, classical, and opera performances. Call tel. 09/378-9030, or visit www.devonportwinefestival.co.nz. Late February.

Auckland Arts Festival. A biennial extravaganza of national and international dance, music, theater, and visual arts. The next festival will be in 2013. Call tel. 09/309-0101, or check www.aucklandfestival.co.nz. Late February to March.

March

Celebrate Pasifika Festival, Auckland. Auckland's Pacific Island communities celebrate the largest 1-day cultural festival in the South Pacific. Not to be missed. Check www.celebratepasifica.com for more info. First week of March.

New Zealand International Festival of Arts, Wellington. The largest and most prestigious event on the New Zealand arts calendar features top overseas and national artists and entertainers. A vibrant mix of all art forms, from contemporary dance to fine music and theater. Call tel. 04/473-0149, or visit www.nzfestival.nzpost.co.nz. Beginning of March.

Ellerslie International Flower Show Christchurch, Christchurch. New Zealand's premier garden event has shifted from Auckland to Christchurch. It showcases the best of garden design over 5 days in Hagley Park. Nurseries and garden retailers also participate. Call tel. 03/941-8999, or visit www.ellerslieflowershow.co.nz. Early March.

Hokitika Wildfoods Festival, Hokitika. A culinary adventure for the brave and curious, this 1-day event presents the weird and wonderful of New Zealand's wild foods, including wild pig, possum pâté, goat, various bugs and insects, honey, fish, and venison. Call tel. 03/756-9048, or check www.wildfoods.co.nz. Mid-March.

Arrowtown Autumn Festival, Arrowtown. A week of market days, music, and street entertainment celebrating the gold-mining era. Call tel. 03/442-0809 or 027/210-1570, or visit www.arrowtownautumnfestival.org.nz. The week after Easter.

April

Warbirds Over Wanaka, Wanaka. Now classified as one of the best Warbirds air shows in the world, it combines classic vintage and veteran aircraft, machinery, fire engines, and tractors with dynamic Air Force displays and aerobatic teams in the natural amphitheater of the Upper Clutha Basin. Call tel. 03/443-8619, or visit www.warbirdsoverwanaka.com. Easter weekend (in even-numbered years only).

Fletcher Challenge Forest Marathon, Rotorua. A full marathon around Lake Rotorua for serious competitors. Attracts over 500 runners. Call tel. 07/348-3301, or check www.rotoruamarathon.co.nz. Late April to early May.

May

Bay of Islands Country Music Festival, Bay of Islands. This festival draws musicians from all around New Zealand, and there's at least one international act each year. Call tel. 09/404-1063, or check www.country-rock.co.nz. Second weekend in May.

Matariki, nationwide. Matariki is the Maori New Year, which coincides with the time when the Pleiades constellation is visible. It is traditionally a time for planting new crops. Since 2000 there has been renewed interest in Matariki, and a diverse range of cultural celebrations are now held throughout the country. Visit www.matarikifestival.co.nz and www.matariki.net.nz for more information. Late May through June.

June

National Agricultural Fieldays, Hamilton. One of the largest agricultural shows in the world, exhibiting the best of New Zealand agriculture, horticulture, floriculture, and forestry products. Call tel. 07/843-4499, or visit www.fieldays.co.nz. Mid-June.

July

Queenstown Winter Festival, Queenstown. Queenstown officially goes mad with a host of zany mountain events and street entertainment. Call tel. 03/441-2453, or check www.winterfestival.co.nz. Mid-July.

Christchurch Arts Festival. Biennially in July to August, this festival showcases the best of national and international dance, music, theater, and visual arts. For more information, visit www.artsfestival.co.nz.

August

Bay of Islands Jazz and Blues Festival, Bay of Islands. More than 50 jazz bands from New Zealand and overseas provide live entertainment at various places around Paihia and Russell, night and day. Call tel. 09/404-1063 in New Zealand, or go to www.jazz-blues.co.nz. Early to mid-August.

September

Montana World of Wearable Art Awards, Wellington. This creative extravaganza in Wellington should not be missed. Call tel. 03/547-0863, or go to www.worldofwearableart.com. Mid- to late September.

Alexandra Blossom Festival, Alexandra. An annual parade of floats and entertainment, celebrating the onset of spring. Call tel. 03/377-2823, or check www.blossom.co.nz. Late September to early October.

Gay Ski Week. A week of celebrations on and around the slopes. See www.gayskiweeknz.com for more information. First week of September.

October

Kaikoura Seafest, Kaikoura. An annual celebration of the best seafood and Marlborough and Canterbury wines, plus fun and entertainment for the entire family. Call tel. 0800/473-2337 in New Zealand, or visit www.seafest.co.nz. Early October.

Dunedin Rhododendron Festival, Dunedin. Fun-filled days highlighted by garden tours and cultural events to celebrate the city's magnificent displays of rhododendron blooms. Call tel. 03/477-1092, or check www.rhododunedin.co.nz. Mid- to late October.

Nelson Arts Festival, Nelson. Twelve days of music, dance, theater, and street performances throughout the city. Call tel. 03/545-8734, or check www.nelsonartsfestival.co.nz. Mid-October.

Queenstown Jazz Festival, Queenstown. Over 200 musicians attend and play in bars and restaurants in a nonstop jam session with food and dancing. Call tel. 03/441-2453, or visit www.queenstownjazz.co.nz. Late October.

November

Toast Martinborough, Martinborough. An annual wine-and-food festival. Call tel. 06/306-9183, or go to www.toastmartinborough.co.nz. Mid- to late November.

Canterbury A&P Show, Christchurch. The South Island's largest agricultural and pastoral event, which includes thoroughbred and standard-bred racing and the New Zealand Cup. Call tel. 03/343-3033, or go to www.theshow.co.nz. Second week of November.

Southern Traverse, South Island. An adventure race for teams of three to five serious competitors through New Zealand's toughest terrain. The endurance events cover high ridges, lakes, and river crossings throughout Otago. Call tel. 03/441-8215, or check out www.southerntraverse.com. Late November.

December

Nelson Jazz Festival, Nelson. A wide variety of local and national jazz bands perform in a weekend event, culminating in a special New Year's Eve concert. Call tel. 03/547-2559, or visit www.nelsonjazz.co.nz. Late December to early January.

Escorted & Package Tours

Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices. One good source of package deals to New Zealand is the airlines themselves. Most major airlines offer air/land packages, including American Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (tel. 800/654-6559; www.deltavacations.com), and United Vacations (tel. 888/854-3899; www.unitedvacations.com). Several big online travel agencies - Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, Site59, and Lastminute.com - also do a brisk business in packages. Qantas Vacations USA (tel. 800/641-8772 in the U.S., or 310/322-6359; fax 310/535-1057) and Qantas Vacations Canada (tel. 800/268-7525 in Canada; fax 416/234-8569) offer good deals as well.

In the United States, Artisans of Leisure, 18 E. 16th St., Ste. 301, New York, NY 10003 (tel. 800/214-8144 in the U.S.; www.artisansofleisure.com), offers exclusive, highly personalized luxury tours for individuals and small groups, and New Zealand is one of their most popular destinations. Their tours run 7 to 19 days and combine top rooms in premium lodges with activities that can range from tasting wine and food to arts and cultural events and outdoor activities - your choice. Active Downunder, 1220 Rosecrans St., #911, San Diego, CA 92106 (tel. 800/425-9036 in the U.S.; www.activedownunder.com), is owned and operated by New Zealanders; their specialty is highly customized active, leisure, and luxury vacations in New Zealand. They are experts with insider knowledge, and their personalized itineraries include boutique and luxury accommodations, along with cultural and adventure activities. Nature Expeditions International, 7860 Peters Rd., Ste. F-103, Plantation, FL, 33324 (tel. 800/869-0639 in the U.S.; www.naturexp.com), offers 1- to 15-day guided cultural, wildlife, and "soft" adventure tours to New Zealand. They cater specifically to small groups.

In New Zealand, there are many companies offering escorted tour options. Some of the reputable operators include:

• Contiki Holidays, P.O. Box 68640, Newton, Auckland (tel. 0508/266-8454 in NZ; www.contiki.co.nz), offering 3- to 18-day coach tours for 18- to 35-year-olds throughout New Zealand.

• Thrifty Tours, P.O. Box 31257, Milford, Auckland (tel. 0800/803-550 in NZ, or 09/359-8380; www.thriftytours.co.nz), with well-planned 2- to 16-day tours.

• Discover New Zealand, 120 Albert St., Auckland (tel. 0800/330-188 in NZ, or 09/356-2190; www.discovernewzealand.com), offers a range of 3- to 16-day tours designed for travelers who want the value and security of pre-booked arrangements combined with the freedom and independence of doing their own thing.

• Scenic Pacific Tours, P.O. Box 14037, Christchurch (tel. 0800/500-388 in NZ, or 03/359-3999; www.scenicpacific.co.nz), offers a large range of day excursions, short tours, and independent holidays.

• Navigator Tours, 553 Richmond Rd., Grey Lynn, Auckland (tel. 09/817-1191; www.navigatortours.co.nz), offers a diverse range of unique, personalized, guided tours throughout New Zealand, staying at high-end accommodations.

• TIME Unlimited Tours (tel. 09/446-6677; www.newzealandtours.travel) is an award-winning company offering a range of Maori cultural, kayaking, fishing, and walking tours of regional New Zealand.

Getting There

The cost of getting to New Zealand is likely to be your single biggest cash outlay, so it makes sense to shop around. Remember to check out those recommended agents and hot travel offers listed for your country of origin on the Tourism New Zealand website, www.newzealand.com. Also go to Air New Zealand's website at www.airnewzealand.com for special deals.

By Plane

From the West Coast of the United States, you can fly to New Zealand nonstop overnight; a direct flight from Singapore takes 10 hours; and a flight from eastern Australia is around 3 hours. Auckland (AKL), Wellington (WLG), and Christchurch (CHC) are all serviced by major domestic and international terminals. There are also much smaller international terminals at Hamilton (HLZ) and Dunedin (DUD); and most cities have domestic terminals. Auckland Airport is the major hub for most airlines coming in to New Zealand, followed by Christchurch and then Wellington. If you intend to spend most of your time in the South Island, it makes sense to fly into Christchurch, but depending on your airline, you may have to fly into Auckland and then transfer to domestic flights to Christchurch, Dunedin, or Queenstown.

At least 20 foreign airlines fly into Auckland. The main ones providing service from the United States are Air New Zealand, Qantas, and British Airways.

Canada is serviced primarily by Air New Zealand and Air Pacific, while Europe and the United Kingdom are serviced by Air New Zealand, British Airways, and Qantas. For travel from Asia, options include Singapore Airlines, Korean Air, Japan Airlines, Malaysian Airlines, Cathay Pacific, and Thai Airways. Dubai-based Emirates Airline now flies into New Zealand as well. There are also code-sharing arrangements with Lufthansa, American Airlines, United Airlines, and several others.

The timing of your trip can have a tremendous impact on your airline costs. New Zealand's peak season is December through February; the shoulder season includes March and September through November; and the low season begins in April and runs through August.

By Boat

About a hundred cruises a year visit New Zealand and while the global economic downturn has impacted these numbers, New Zealand remains a popular cruise destination with over one-third of passengers coming from the United States.

Most cruises coming to New Zealand also visit Australia and are typically 12 to 16 days in duration. New Zealand cruise ports include Auckland, Tauranga, Napier, Wellington, Lyttelton (near Christchurch), Dunedin, and Milford Sound. You can fly to Australia or New Zealand to join a cruise, or you can take a segment on a world cruise that includes New Zealand.

At least a dozen international cruise lines include New Zealand on their itineraries. Among the main ones are Cunard (tel. 800/7-CUNARD [7-286273]; www.cunard.com), Silversea (tel. 877/276-6816; www.silversea.com), Holland America Line (tel. 877/932-4259; www.hollandamerica.com), Crystal Cruises (tel. 888/722-0021; www.crystalcruises.com), Regent Seven Sea Cruises (tel. 877/505-5370; www.rssc.com), Princess Cruises (tel. 800/PRINCESS [774-6237]; www.princess.com), P&O Cruises (tel. 0845/678-0014; www.pocruises.com), Fred.Olsen Cruise Lines (tel. 44/01473-746175; www.fredolsencruises.com), and Oceania Cruises (tel. 800/531-5619; www.oceaniacruises.com).

Staying Safe

New Zealand is generally a very safe destination, one of the safest in the world. Still, exercise the same care that you would in any major city. People-oriented dangers - theft, assault, murder - should be mentioned, but it's important to remember that violent crimes in most countries, especially in New Zealand, occur between acquaintances. As a traveler, it's unlikely you'll be a victim. If you're hitchhiking, however, that may be another matter.

On the subject of theft, it should be noted that many travelers are lulled into a false sense of security, leaving cars unlocked and valuables clearly visible. Always park your car in a well-populated area whenever possible; lock it and cover your luggage with a blanket or a coat. Never leave handbags or cameras in cars. The simple rule should be, if you can't do without it, don't leave it in the car, locked or otherwise.

The downtown areas of New Zealand's major cities, especially Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch, are now well covered by closed-circuit cameras, which are monitored by police. This has significantly helped to reduce crime. It is still advisable to exercise caution, especially on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights, when social drinking sometimes gets out of hand.

There is a significant youth drinking problem in New Zealand, and this tends to manifest itself in areas with a large concentration of bars - Wellington's Courtenay Place and Christchurch's Oxford Strip are two good examples. That doesn't necessarily make these areas dangerous - far from it - but it is a good idea to be more vigilant and to stay away from any fights that might break out.

When it comes to traveling in the countryside, you should always be as cautious as you would be anywhere else. New Zealanders are generally friendly and welcoming, but if you're going to encounter any gender or racial bigotry, it is more likely to be in smaller rural communities. The risk is small, though. New Zealand is a bicultural country with increasing numbers of immigrants residing here.

Female travelers should never hitchhike alone or at night. Despite the wider population being tolerant of solo female travelers, there are always some unsavory characters who view this as an opportunity for theft, assault, rape, or worse. Don't put yourself in a vulnerable position. New Zealand men generally are fine, but there is a macho undercurrent in our society, especially when rugby and alcohol are part of the equation. Always take care in social environments, and if you are a single female traveling alone, don't drink too much, or you'll be easy prey.