Planning a trip to Nicaragua

Fast Facts

American Express -- American Express is located at the Viajes Atlántida office (1 block east of Rotonda El Güegüense, Managua; tel. 505/266-4050). It is open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm.

Business Hours -- Banks are generally open weekdays from 8:30am to 4pm, and some are open on Saturday mornings. Shopping hours are weekdays from 8am to noon and 2 to 5pm, and Saturday 8am to noon. Shopping centers are open daily from 10am to 8pm.

Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age in both countries is 18, although it is often not enforced. Beer, wine, and liquor are all sold in most supermarkets and small convenience stores from Monday through Saturday. No liquor is sold on Good Friday, Easter Sunday, or election days. If you're caught possessing, using, or trafficking drugs anywhere in the region, expect severe penalties, including long jail sentences and large fines.

Electricity -- Nicaragua and El Salvador run on 110 volts, 60 Hz, the same as the United States and Canada. However, three-prong grounded outlets are not universally available. It's helpful to bring a three-to-two prong adapter. European and Asian travelers should bring adapters with any accompanying appliances. Be prepared for frequent blackouts and bring surge protectors.

Embassies -- All embassies are in Managua, as follows: United States, Carr Sur Km 4.5 (tel. 505/2266-6012, or 505/2266-6038 after hours); Canada, De los Pipitos, Calle Nogal #25, Bolonia (tel. 505/2268-0433 or 505/268-3323); and the United Kingdom, Carretera Masaya, Los Robles (tel. 505/2278-0014 or 505/2278-0887). Australia and New Zealand do not have an embassy or consulate in Nicaragua.

Emergencies -- The following emergency numbers are valid throughout Nicaragua. For an ambulance, call tel. 128; in case of fire, call tel. 115; for police assistance, call tel. 118.

Hospitals -- The best hospital in Managua is the Hospital Bautista, 1km (1/2 mile) east of the Intercontinental Hotel (tel. 505/2249-7070 or 505/2249-7277; www.hospitalbautistanicaragua.com); some staff members are English-speaking.

Internet & Wifi -- Access is generally free at most hotels, with the notable exception of larger chain hotels, which generally charge between US$3 and US$8 per day.

Language -- Nicaragua's official language is Spanish, but a form of creole English is also frequently used along the Caribbean coast and the Corn Islands.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen, and file a report at the nearest police precinct.

If you need emergency cash, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com). Their website can direct you to the closest location.

Maps -- It is difficult to produce reliable maps of towns and cities that have no street names, but Intur makes a good effort at it. Guía Mananic is one good country map that can be purchased at most bookstores in the country.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Major local papers are El Nuevo Diario (center-left) and La Prensa (conservative). La Tribuna is the country's main business paper, and El Mercurio is the most popular tabloid.

Police -- Call tel. 911 for emergencies.

Post Offices & Mail -- Post offices are generally open Monday through Friday from 8am to 6pm and Saturday from 8am to 1pm. Airmail postage for a letter weighing 198g (7 oz.) or less from Nicaragua to North America is 60¢ and $1 to Europe. Mail takes on average between 7 and 10 days to get to the U.S. and Europe.

Safety -- In the more populated southern parts and poorer areas of Managua, crime is reportedly on the increase, but it's by no means as bad as in other Central American countries. Travelers should be especially alert to pickpockets and purse snatching on the streets and on buses. Always keep your belongings in sight while dining or drinking, and expect street kids to ask for money or food. A different safety concern, but worth noting, is the strong Pacific currents and lack of lifeguards. Be aware of this while enjoying the beach.

Smoking -- There are no government smoking bans in Nicaragua at the moment. Private companies do not allow smoking in places like cinemas or long-distance buses, however. The better hotels and restaurants have nonsmoking rooms and areas, but in general, you can still puff wherever you want.

Taxes -- Nicaragua's value-added tax (IGV) is 15% and is generally added on after the bill, especially when eating in the finer restaurants. If you're ever unsure about a price, ask if the bill includes el impuesto (the tax).

Telephone & Fax -- Public phones take either phone cards (sold at kiosks on the street) or coins. Local calls cost 20 centavos to start and more the longer you talk. ENITEL is the name of the biggest phone company, though it is still often referred to as TELCOR. You will find an ENITEL office in all major cities and towns. There are telephone booths on many corners, but you may have difficulty finding one that accepts change (it's easier to find ones that work with calling cards).

Time -- Nicaragua is 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time.

Tipping -- A 10% tip is expected at cafes and restaurants. This is often added to the bill automatically, even though the waiter/waitress may never see it. If you are worried your tip is not getting into the right hands, give a little extra to the waiter directly. You are not obliged to pay the automatic tip if the service was bad.

Toilets -- These are known as sanitarios, servicios sanitarios, or baños. They are marked damas (women), and hombres or caballeros (men). Public restrooms are hard to come by in both countries. You will almost never find a public restroom in a city park or downtown area. You can take refuge in the many huge malls that are now springing up in both countries. Otherwise, one must count on the generosity of some hotel or restaurant. Same goes for most beaches. Most restaurants and, to a lesser degree, hotels will let you use their facilities, especially if you buy a soft drink or something. Bus and gas stations often have restrooms, but many of these are pretty grim. Don't flush toilet paper; put it in the trash bin.

Water -- The water in the major cities and tourist destinations is ostensibly safe to drink. However, many travelers react adversely to water in foreign countries, and it's probably best to drink bottled water and avoid ice or food washed with tap water throughout your visit to the region.

Money

The official Nicaraguan currency is the córdoba (it is sometimes referred to as a peso). It is made up of 100 centavos. Money is denominated in notes of 10, 20, 50, 100, and 500 córdobas. Coins are made of 1 and 5 córdobas and 50 centavos. At press time, the exchange rate was 22 córdobas to the American dollar and 36 to the British pound. It's often difficult to find change for 100-córdoba notes and next to impossible to change the princely sum that is a 500-córdoba note (a bank is your best bet for doing so).

Córdobas are virtually useless outside Nicaragua and should be changed before you leave. Prices in this guide are quoted in córdobas with the symbol "C" and American dollars with the symbol "$." Because of high inflation and volatile exchange rates, prices quoted here may vary greatly in accuracy.

Sales tax in Nicaragua is known as IGV (Impuesto General de Valor) and allows for an extra charge of 15% on all goods. Always check menus and price lists to see if it's included in the quoted price.

Currency Exchange -- U.S. dollars are widely accepted in Nicaragua and can be used to pay taxis, hotels, restaurants, and stores. However, do keep some córdobas on hand, since you may run into spots where you'll need them. You can convert your currency in hotels, at casas de cambio (money-exchange houses), at some banks, and at Managua International Airport. It is difficult to change traveler's checks outside the capital.

ATMs -- ATMs are becoming increasingly available, even in far-flung places like the Corn Islands. There are plenty in the main cities, such as Managua, Granada, León, and Rivas (try gas stations and shopping malls). Don't bet on finding any off the beaten path. Typically, ATMs are connected to Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787) or PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587) networks. Many ATMs also accept Visa and MasterCard.

Credit Cards -- If you choose to use plastic, Visa, American Express, MasterCard, and Diners Club are the commonly accepted cards. Credit cards are accepted at most hotels and restaurants except the very cheapest ones. You cannot use credit cards in taxis or at most attractions (museums, parks, and so on).

Staying Connected

The country code for Nicaragua is 505, which you use only when dialing from outside the country. Telephone numbers in this guidek include it because most businesses' published phone numbers include the prefix.

• To place a call from your home country to Nicaragua: Dial the international access code (011 in the U.S., 0011 in Australia, 0170 in New Zealand, 00 in the U.K.) plus the country code (505), the city or region's area code, and the local number.
• To make long-distance calls within Nicaragua: Dial a 0 before the seven-digit number.
• To place an international call from Nicaragua: Add 00 before the country code.
• To call an operator: Dial tel. 113 for directory assistance. Dial tel. 110 for long-distance assistance. Dial tel. 116 to make collect calls to the U.S., U.K., Australia, and Canada.
• To make an emergency call: Dial tel. 118 for police help, dial tel. 115-06-120 to report a fire, and tel. 128 for the Red Cross.

New Numbers in Nicaragua -- In 2009, all Nicaraguan telephone numbers increased from seven to eight digits with the addition of the number "2" before all fixed lines (numbers that previously began with 2, 3, 5, and 7) and the number "8" before all cellphone numbers (numbers that previously began with 4, 6, 8, or 9). Telephone numbers have been updated in this guide, but you may come across the old seven-digit system in flyers and brochures when you travel around the country.

ENITEL (www.claro.com.ni), the national telephone company in Nicaragua, was privatized in 2011 and is now owned by Claro. It has call centers dotted around the country in every major town. There are also ENITEL and PUBLITEL phone booths, operated by phone cards that can be bought at most corner stores and service stations.

Cellphones

The cellphone networks are Movistar and Claro. Claro is reputed to have the best overall reception. You will need to buy a new chip on arrival if you wish to bring your own phone; or better and more reliable, but more expensive, is to arrange a roaming facility with your phone company before your trip. The roaming service can cost anywhere between $1 and $4 a minute, while a new chip costs $35. Whichever you decide, consult with your provider beforehand, as many a traveler has found his phone still useless with a new chip; it has something to do with different bands in different countries and not all phones being compatible.

Pay-as-you-go phones can be purchased in the airport or any high street, the cheapest of which cost $60. Make sure to ask if the phone can take international calls and how much this costs, as packages vary and can be restrictively expensive. It's also important to ask how long your credit is valid for; this can vary from 15 to 60 days. Usually, the more credit you buy, the longer the validity. Local calls vary from 10¢ to 50¢ a minute. Look out for promotions such as free incoming calls and cheap international calls for 10¢ a minute with certain networks.

Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP)

Your best, cheapest bet for making international calls is to head to an Internet cafe. The vast majority have an international calling system called Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP), which most of us know as Skype. These cafes are easily spotted because they have headphones attached to each computer (and often a loud foreigner shouting down a microphone). International calls made this way can range anywhere from free to $1 per minute -- much cheaper than making direct international calls or using a phone card. If you have your own Skype or similar account, you just need to find one of the many Internet cafes in Nicaragua and El Salvador that provide the service. To open an account is easy -- just go to www.skype.com and follow the instructions. If you are calling another Skype user, the call is free.

Internet & E-mail

With Your Own Computer -- Wi-Fi is pretty much in every establishment that deals with tourists in Nicaragua. Hotels, cafes, and retailers are signing on as "hot spots," meaning you can access the Internet from your own wireless-enabled laptop. Most places don't charge, though it is best to check with your hotel. Wireless Internet in Spanish is known as internet inalámbrico. Mac owners have their own networking technology: Apple AirPort. iPass providers (www.ipass.com) also give you access to a few hundred wireless hotel lobby setups. To locate other hot spots that provide free wireless networks in cities around the world, go to www.personaltelco.net/index.cgi/WirelessCommunities or www.jiwire.com, which holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels throughout Central America offer dataports for laptop modems.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Without Your Own Computer -- Every self-respecting hotel or youth hostel nowadays has at least one computer you can access the Internet on, and many provide at least 15 minutes free. There are also plenty of cybercafes in every Nicaraguan town and city center. When entering an Internet cafe, ask for una máquina and the assistant will direct you to an available computer. Charges vary between C30 and C40 an hour.

If you need to access files on your office computer while you're on the road, look into GoToMyPC (www.gotomypc.com). The service provides a Web-based interface for you to access and manipulate a distant PC from anywhere -- even a cybercafe -- provided your "target" PC is on and has an always-on connection to the Internet (such as with Road Runner cable). The service offers top-quality security, but if you're worried about hackers, use your own laptop rather than a cybercafe's computer to access the GoToMyPC system.

Getting There

By Plane

Augusto C Sandino International Airport (MGA; tel. 505/2233-1624; www.eaai.com.ni) is 11km (6 3/4 miles) east of Managua and is the country's main airport. Here, you'll find direct flights from Miami, Houston, Dallas, Mexico City, San Salvador, Panama City, and San José. American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300 or 505/2255-9090; www.aa.com) flies twice a day from Miami. Delta (tel. 505/2254-8130; www.delta.com) has a daily flight to Atlanta. Spirit Airlines (tel. 505/2233-2884; www.spiritair.com) operates a daily flight to Fort Lauderdale.

Copa (tel. 505/2267-0045; www.copaair.com) has connections all over Central America, particularly to cities in Guatemala and Panama and to San José and San Salvador. Aeroméxico (tel. 800/237-6639 or 505/2266-6997; www.aeromexico.com) flies four times a week to Mexico City from Managua. TACA (tel. 505/2266-3136; www.taca.com) operates flights from Miami, Panama City, and San Salvador. Iberia (tel. 800/2772-4642; www.iberia.com) flies once a day to Miami with onward connections to Europe.

By Bus

There are a handful of established international bus companies that trundle up and down the Central American isthmus. All have separate stations and offices in Barrio Martha Quezada in Managua, and some have offices in León, Rivas, and Granada where you can also alight. Tica Bus, 2 blocks east of the Antiguo Cine Dorado (tel. 505/2222-6094 or 505/2222-3031; www.ticabus.com), is the best-known operator, with intercity routes going as far as Mexico City. The bus from Honduras leaves Tegucigalpa daily at 9:15 a.m., takes hours to reach Managua, and costs C440 one way. The bus from San José in Costa Rica leaves daily at 3 a.m., takes 7 hours, and costs C572. They also operate a route from San Salvador, leaving from the Hotel San Carlos at 3 a.m. and arriving in Managua 6 1/2 hours later. The cost is C660.

King Quality/Cruceros del Golfo, opposite Tica Bus (tel. 505/2228-1454; www.king-qualityca.com) has a reputation for being more comfortable and provides meals. Their service from Honduras leaves at 6 a.m and 2 p.m. and costs C1,562. The Costa Rica service leaves San José at 3 p.m., takes 8 hours, and costs C968. The bus from San Salvador leaves at 3:30, 5:30, and 11:30 a.m.. It takes 6 1/2 hours and costs C1,694.

Trans Nica, 300m (984 ft.) north of Rotonda Metrocentro and 50m (164 ft.) east (tel. 505/2277-2104 or 505/2270-3133; www.nuevo.transnica.com), services El Salvador, Costa Rica, and Honduras. Their bus from Costa Rica departs from San Juan at 4:30, 5:30, and 9 a.m. It takes 9 hours and costs C577. Central Line, (tel. 505/254-5431), next to King Quality goes south to San José in Costa Rica. The service leaves Costa Rica at 4:30 a.m. and takes 9 hours. The cost is C580.

For those who are on a strict budget, are in no hurry, and don't mind the discomfort of jumping off and changing buses at the border, getting around by a chicken bus, is another option. The two main crossings on the Honduran border are Guasale and El Espino. These buses arrive and depart in Managua at Mercado Israel Lewites, also known as Boer (tel. 505/2265-2152) and Mercado Mayoreo (tel. 505/2233-4729). The main crossing into Costa Rica is Peñas Blancas. Buses arrive and depart from Mercado Roberto Huembes (no phone). It is very important that you get two stamps -- an exit and entrance stamp -- from the corresponding immigration office on either side, or you may have problems entering or leaving at the border.

By Cruise Ship/Ferry

San Juan del Sur is now a well-established stop-off for luxury cruise liners plying the Caribbean and Pacific coasts via the Panama Canal. Two reputable companies that make this trip are Miami-based Seabourn Cruise Line (www.seabourn.com) and California-based Princess Cruises (www.princess.com).

Getting Around

Getting around the country is often very taxing, especially if you want to use public transportation. Decrepit roads and a chaotic bus system mean you may have to ante up for an expensive taxi or shuttle ride between cities if you don't fancy taking a chicken bus. Fortunately, everything is relatively close, and the only real epic journeys are if you want to explore the interior highlands or get to the Caribbean by land and sea.

By Plane

At the end of Managua's airport terminal, there is a tiny departure lounge that accommodates Nicaragua's domestic airline operator La Costeña (tel. 505/2263-2142; www.lacostena.com.ni) which provides "puddle jumper" propeller planes that carry people and packages to Puerto Cabezas, San Carlos, Bluefields, and the Corn Islands.

Air Nicaragua -- You can relive the romance (and fear) of early aviation on Nicaragua's La Costeña airline. You realize that this is going to be a flight with a difference when you are physically weighed along with your luggage as part of the check-in process. Your boarding pass is a big, plastic, re-usable card and the plane itself something you might see in an Indiana Jones movie. You sit so close to the pilots you can hear them chat about their round of golf, since some planes have no cockpit partitions. Yet, these daredevil puddle jumpers do get you there, and the ride on a clear day turns into a glorious aerial tour of the country.

By Bus

Have you ever wondered where those old yellow school buses go after being decommissioned from carrying North American children? They go south. The potholed roads of Nicaragua are full of trundling "chicken buses" or old school buses, which riders (some of whom do carry livestock) can hop onto and off of at multiple destinations, making for a very slow ride.

The country also has small express vans that are faster than chicken buses, but -- since they still allow as many folks as possible to pile on along the way -- they can get very crowded and uncomfortable on long journeys.

Some better-quality bus companies do exist, but in general, traveling by bus is a colorful, yet exhausting and sometimes intimidating, business. The main problem is not the actual buses but the chaotic market bus stations you must negotiate upon departure and arrival.

By Taxi & Shuttle Bus

Taking taxis or shuttle buses is an increasingly popular way of getting around the country. Small, private companies usually connected to a travel agency or hotel will pick you up at your airport or hotel and transfer you to your next destination. It is particularly popular for those traveling among the main tourist destinations of Granada, San Juan del Sur, Managua, and León. The price depends on whether you are lucky enough to have somebody else sharing the ride, but will never be less than C600 between destinations. Two reputable companies are Tierra Tour (tel. 505/2315-4278; www.tierratour.com) and Paxeos (tel. 505/2552-8291; www.paxeos.com).

By Car

Nicaragua used to be described as a country of oxen and Mercedes Benzes, but now it is more like a country of old school buses and SUVs. In general, the roads are very bad, and you will be doing yourself a big favor if you spring for a four-wheel-drive. One good thing about driving here is that there is very little traffic. The northern highlands are the most beautiful area for touring by car.

Car rentals are generally cheap, but it is wise to shop around. Make sure you get unlimited mileage or are aware of the charge per kilometer if you go over. A car costs C600 to C2,000 per day, more if you require a 4WD. The best-known company is Hertz (tel. 505/2266-8400 in the Intercontinental Hotel or 505/2222-2320 in the airport; www.hertz.com). Lugo Rent-a-Car (tel. 505/2266-4477) and Dorado Rent-a-Car (tel. 505/2278-1825) are both located at Rotonda El Dorado in Managua. Alamo has a desk in the international airport (tel. 505/2277-4477; www.alamonicaragua.com) and offices in Granada and San Juan del Sur. Budget, 1 block south of Estatua Montaya (tel. 505/2255-9000; www.budget.com.ni) and Avis, 1/2 block south of Estatua Montaya (tel. 505/2268-1838; www.avis.com.ni) are two other good options. Note that many towns (such as Masaya) lack rental-car outlets, so if you are intent on touring the country by car, it is probably best that you do so from Managua or Granada.

Traffic Cops -- An on-the-spot "fine" for a missing fire extinguisher is a common trick for a roadside shakedown by unscrupulous traffic police. Check with your car-rental company that your car possesses all the legal requirements.

Driving Rules -- The official rules of the road in Nicaragua are very much the same as those in North America. People drive on the right, and standard international signage makes it clear who has the right of way at city junctions. Seat belts are obligatory, and speed limits apply to urban areas.

Not that anybody notices. The standard of driving is poor and sloppy, with speeding and fender benders very common. Watch out for drivers turning without indicating and chaotic city traffic circles where anything goes. Huge potholes are frequent, especially in rural areas of Nicaragua, where kids make a living by filling these hazardous craters with dirt in exchange for change from drivers.

A valid driver's license is necessary, and it is recommended that you get an international license before you travel. Police checkpoints are frequent. It is important never to move your car after an accident, even if it is blocking the road. If an accident causes an injury, both drivers are taken into custody until the matter is cleared up, which can take several days.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

For such a Catholic and conservative country, Nicaragua is a fairly tolerant place regarding homosexuality. Gay bars exist not just in the capital, but in some of the regional cities, as well. Nevertheless, this is not San Francisco, and discretion is the name of the game -- gay sex was only decriminalized in 2008, after all. For listings on gay-friendly bars and hotels, go to www.gaynicaragua.net.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Entry Requirements

Citizens of the United States, Canada, Australia and New Zealand, and the European Union require just a passport to enter Nicaragua and may stay for up to 90 days. The passport must be valid for at least 6 months after the date of entry. Visas can be extended at the Office of Immigration in Managua for $12 a month. The office, called the Dirección General de Migración y Extranjería (tel. 505/2244-3989), is located 2 1/2 blocks north of the Tenderí stoplights.

Nicaragua is part of a 2006 border control agreement with Honduras, Guatemala, and El Salvador, allowing travel among the four countries under one tourist card. The number of days of your tourist card is determined at the first of the four countries entered.

When leaving Nicaragua, you must pay a C700 airport tax, which must be paid in cash in either U.S. dollars or Nicaraguan córdobas. (This is sometimes included in the price of your airline ticket.) There is also a tourist entry fee of C100 that must be paid upon arrival into the country.

Nicaraguan Embassy-Consulate Locations -- For countries not listed below, consult www.ni.embassyinformation.com.

In the U.S. and Canada: 1627 New Hampshire Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20009 (tel. 202/939-6531; fax 202/939-6532).

In the U.K.: 36 Upper Brooke St., London W1Y 1PE (tel. 171/409-2593; fax 171/409-2536; www.nicaragua.embassyhomepage.com).

In New Zealand: 50 Clonbern Rd., Remuera (tel. 64/9373-7599; fax 64/9373-7646; c.tremewan@auckland.ac.nz).

Passports

The websites listed below provide downloadable passport applications, as well as the current fees for processing applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "International Travel" tab of the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov.

For Residents of Australia -- You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232 or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office (Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3; tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.

For Residents of Ireland -- You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office (Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2; tel. 01/671-1633; www.dfa.ie). Those 17 and under, or 66 and older, must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 21/494-4700) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand -- You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand, or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children 15 and under), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency; contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410; or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States -- Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center's toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Customs

There is a C100 entrance fee for all tourists. In theory, you may also be asked for an onward ticket and proof of sufficient funds, but this rarely happens. There is a tax on all electronic, alcohol, and other luxury goods that are not obviously personal objects (things still in their original packaging, for example).

Special-Interest Vacations

Archeological Sites

If you are looking for Maya splendor, visit the ruins at Tazumal in western El Salvador. Another interesting Maya site in El Salvador, though not as visually stunning, is the abandoned village known as Joya de Cerén.

The Maya did not make it to Nicaragua, but that does not mean the country lacks fascinating pre-Columbian heritage. The islands of Zapatera and Ometepe have large zoomorphic basalt statues, a collection of which can be seen at the Museo Antiguo Convento de San Francisco. in Granada León Viejo is an abandoned colonial city now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Museo Las Huellas de Acahualinca in Managua holds a set of footprints that date back to 4000 B.C.

Spas & Yoga

Besides the spas you'll find in the high-end hotels and several exclusive seaside resorts, wellness retreats are a little thin on the ground. There are, however, some notable places beginning to appear, and it is only a matter of time before the health and pampering scene in Nicaragua and El Salvador will rival that of Costa Rica, especially considering the amount of undeveloped hot springs that dot both countries.

Nica Yoga (tel. 505/8400-0255; www.nicayoga.com) is Nicaragua's first yoga community, located 3km (1 3/4 miles) outside San Juan del Sur. This is an all-inclusive yoga retreat, with accommodations and surfing excursions provided, starting at $700 per person per week.

Tips for Single Travelers

Like everywhere else, you will pay a premium for that hotel room if you are traveling alone in Nicaragua, and most tour prices are based on groups of two to four people.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism is not just about staying in an overpriced ecolodge. How you conduct yourself on your vacation can have a positive or negative effect on the places you visit. Nicaragua's unique attractions and strong community-level organizations provide ample opportunities for you to have a holiday that also benefits the community. For example, when choosing a language school, choose one of the small local schools affiliated with a women's group, rather than a capital-based money maker. When buying souvenirs, choose locally made products, rather than Taiwanese-produced trinkets from a Managua shopping mall. Think twice about handing cash to panhandling kids when you could easily drop into the orphanage around the corner and make a donation. Avoid buying souvenirs made from captured wildlife and don't be tempted by the turtle eggs on the menu. One tenet of sustainable tourism is to spend your money in locally owned establishments, but Nicaragua turns this principle on its head, as often the most community-spirited operations are owned by foreigners.

The most garlanded ecolodges are often the most expensive, such as Morgan's Rock in San Juan del Sur, but you don't have to pay a king's ransom if you want a truly sustainable holiday. Finca Esperanza Verde in Matagalpa is, in my opinion, the best ecolodge in Nicaragua. The rooms may be basic, but the surroundings are beautiful, and the management's environmental policies are spot-on, which is all you really need. As for conventional hotels that are not exactly green but go out of their way to help the community, a few to try include Hotel Los Arcos in Estelí and La Perla in León.

Nicaragua and El Salvador are not immune to the boom in ecotourism, with the former especially well positioned to take advantage of the vast amount of untamed nature it possesses. Lodges vary greatly in luxury and amenities: Be sure to choose a lodge that meets your expectations. Also, take into consideration that many by their very "nature" are in isolated areas.

San Simian Eco Resort (tel. 505/8813-6866; www.sansimian.com) is a cluster of ecohuts on the shore of Laguna de Apoyo, just outside Granada.

Mariposa Eco Hotel & Spanish School (tel. 505/8418-4638; www.mariposaspanishschool.com) is situated in the hills between Masaya and Managua and offers a farmhouse-style atmosphere and Spanish classes.

Finca Magdalena (tel. 505/8880-2041; www.fincamagdalena.com) is an old coffee plantation with a simple farmyard lifestyle on the enchanting Isla de Ometepe.

Montecristo River Lodge (tel. 505/2583-0197 or 505/8649-9012; www.montecristoriverlodge.com) is set on the Río San Juan on the way to the old fort of El Castillo. It practices sustainable tourism, with a wildlife refuge and hiking trails.

Greenfields Nature Reserve (tel. 505/2268-1897; www.greenfields.com.ni), near Bluefields, offers excellent jungle excursions and canoeing trips in pristine wilderness.

Selva Negra Mountain Resort (tel. 505/8612-3883; www.selvanegra.com) is a working coffee farm and cloud-forest retreat in the northern highlands.

Finca Esperanza Verde (tel. 505/2772-5003; www.fincaesperanzaverde.org) is a pioneer in responsible tourism and sustainable agriculture, with organic coffee plantations, cloud forest, waterfalls, and a butterfly farm.

Posada La Soñada (tel. 505/2713-6333) is a well-established lodge in the beautiful Miraflor Nature Reserve, close to the northern town of Estelí.

Morgan's Rock Hacienda and Eco Lodge (tel. 505/8670-7676; www.morgansrock.com) combines both luxury and environmentally friendly accommodations. It is located north of San Juan del Sur.

Jicaro Island Lodge (tel. 505/8403-1236; www.jicarolodge.com) is an island paradise located on freshwater Lake Nicaragua, a 10-minute boat ride from Granada.

Insurance

Medical Insurance

For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710).

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced-cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC covers only "necessary medical treatment," and for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or trip cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

Travel Insurance

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out to be cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance

Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Volunteering

Nicaragua has always attracted an unconventional tourist, starting with the pirates and Californian gold prospectors who came here centuries ago. A new breed of visitor appeared after the Sandinista revolution -- thousands of internacionalistas intent on joining the great leap forward and helping the country's poor and impoverished (the less than committed were wittily referred to as Sandalistas). Those idealists have now morphed into ordinary people doing amazing things, and Nicaragua is now officially a hot spot for volunteering opportunities in Central America. Below is a list of the more established volunteer organizations offered in the country, but just scratch the surface, and you'll find many more. If you are serious about taking up a good cause, you need to commit considerable time (at least a month) and have basic Spanish skills to get the most from your experience.

Granada

Building New Hope (www.buildingnewhope.org) is a Pittsburgh-based nonprofit organization that runs a learning center for underprivileged kids, among many other projects in Granada. The volunteer organizer is Donna Tabor, and she can be contacted through their website. Tax-deductible donations are also welcome.

Hogar Madre Albertina is a girls' orphanage that sorely needs money and volunteers. Desperate to get rid of an old laptop? You can donate yours here, as well as donate your time by teaching a word-processing class. The orphanage (tel. 505/2552-7661) is located 2 blocks north of Colegio Padre Misieri.

La Esperanza Granada (tel. 505/2552-7044; www.la-esperanza-granada.org) helps educate locals in rural areas, as well as offers badly needed healthcare. They provide cheap accommodations and can organize homestays if you're looking for total cultural and language immersion. Their office is located in Hospedaje Central, 1 1/2 blocks east of the central plaza.

San Juan del Sur

San Juan del Sur Biblioteca Móvil (janem101@aol.com) is sponsored by the Hester J. Hodgdon Libraries for All Program. Teachers and donations are required, as well as Spanish books, which can be sent to the library's U.S. depository at 1716 del Norte Blvd., Loveland, CO 80538, or directly dropped off.

The Newton-San Juan del Sur Sister City Project (www.newtonsanjuan.org) is a Massachusetts-based nonprofit organization that sends teams of doctors, dentists, and builders to San Juan. Visit their website or contact local representative Rosa Elena Bello at rosaebel@ibw.com.ni.

Fundación A. Jean Brugger (www.fundacionajbrugger.org) focuses on children's educational needs, offering uniforms, school supplies, and scholarships to students from poor backgrounds.

Matagalpa

Habitat for Humanity (tel. 505/2772-6121; www.habitatnicaragua.org.ni) is a Christian organization that builds decent housing for the poor, in an effort to "change Nicaragua house by house." They have projects all over the country, including in León and Bluefields. Their Matagalpa branch is located 2 blocks east of the Deportiva Brigadista.

Centro Girasol (tel. 505/2772-6030) is a community center that can hook you up with different organizations that require volunteers such as indigenous rights campaigners Movimento Comunal and Comunidad Indígena. Their offices are located in the yellow building at the bridge, as you enter the city from Managua.

Ometepe

Nuestros Pequeños Hermanos (www.nph.org) operates an orphanage in San Lázaro that offers volunteer programs on the island and in other parts of Central America.

La Suerte Biological Teaching Station (www.maderasrfc.org) is dedicated to protecting tropical rainforests and wildlife. They offer teaching opportunities to students and professors, and accommodate educational groups with the goal of "Bridging the Americas."

Bainbridge-Ometepe Sisters Island Association (www.bosia.org) does countless good works on the island, including promoting fair-trade coffee and creating schools, scholarships, and water systems.

Managua

Sí a la Vida! (www.asalv.org) works with troubled kids and expands their opportunities through education, sports, and art. They seek volunteers with experience in healthcare, construction, and agriculture. They also operate a retreat on Ometepe Island.

Casa Ben Linder (www.casabenlinder.org) is a meetinghouse and resource center devoted to helping alleviate poverty.

When to Go

In my opinion, December is the best time to visit Nicaragua: It's just after the rainy season, and the Pacific coast is lush, green, and not too hot. As the dry season progresses towards May, it can get uncomfortably hot in this part of the country, and the Pacific basin loses its bloom and becomes dry and leafless. This is the best time for bird-watching in the rainforests and snorkeling in the Caribbean, where the waters are calmer. The rainy season is not as uncomfortable as it sounds, with showers normally occurring in the afternoon and at night.

Christmas, New Year's, and Easter are the big holidays in Nicaragua, when the locals flock to the beaches and hotels are at capacity and charge premium rates. Unless you want to party and spend big, avoid these holiday periods.

Climate -- Like most of Central America, Nicaragua's climate is tropical, and the year is split between summer (Dec-Apr) and winter (May-Nov), though the temperature is consistent throughout the year, ranging from 54° to 82°F (12°-28°C). The main seasonal difference involves rainfall; the rainy season falls between May and October, with hurricanes buffeting the coast in September and October. Generally speaking, the Caribbean side of the country receives a lot more rainfall than the Pacific side. Altitude is also a factor with the weather -- the highlands have a more spring-like climate compared to the hotter and more humid lowlands and coastal areas.

Public Holidays -- Public holidays include New Year's Day (Jan 1); Easter Week (Thurs, Fri, and Sat before Easter Sunday), Labor Day (May 1), and Christmas Day (Dec 25). Liberation Day (July 19) celebrates victory over the Somoza regime, while the Battle of San Jacinto (Sept 14) rejoices the ending of William Walker's tyranny in 1856. Independence Day (Sept 15) is followed by Día de los Muertos (Nov 2), or the Day of the Dead, which is the Latin American version of All Souls' Day. Feast of the Immaculate Conception (Dec 8) is also known as La Purisma.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Badly maintained sidewalks, complete with death-trap manholes, mean that Nicaragua's cities and towns are going to be a struggle for anybody with mobility issues. There is little in the way of wheel ramps, and disability-friendly transportation is nonexistent. Mud roads and river access in the countryside are no help, either. Yet those who are determined will find a way.

If you are interested in volunteering in this particular field, check out Los Pipitos (www.lospipitos.org), a nationwide group that helps Nicaraguan children with disabilities and their families.

Health & Safety

Contaminated water and food, as well as mosquitoes, are the usual sources of discomfort in Nicaragua (and El Salvador). Always be careful about what you eat and insist on bottled water. As for those pesky mosquitoes, a good repellent with DEET should be enough to keep off bugs that bear unwanted gifts such as dengue fever and malaria. Go to www.cdc.gov for more specific info on malaria hot spots (usually rural areas). Vaccinations in general are not required, unless you are traveling from a yellow-fever zone. Nevertheless, you should always have up-to-date jabs for diphtheria, measles, tetanus, mumps, rubella, and polio. The CDC also advises travelers to vaccinate against Hepatitis A and B.

Before You Go

It can be hard to find a doctor you can trust when you're in an unfamiliar place. Try to take proper precautions the week before you depart to avoid falling ill while you're away from home. Amid the last-minute frenzy that often precedes a vacation, make an extra effort to eat and sleep well.

Pack prescription medications in their original labeled containers in your carry-on luggage. Also, bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out. Carry written prescriptions in generic form, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. If you wear contact lenses, pack an extra pair or your glasses.

If you worry about getting sick away from home, you may want to consider medical travel insurance.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. For conditions such as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert identification tag (tel. 888/633-4298; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hot line.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883, or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and lists of local, English-speaking doctors.

General Availability of Healthcare

Not surprisingly, most of Nicaragua's and El Salvador's best hospitals and healthcare centers are in the capitals, but service varies widely. If you do get sick, it's best to contact your home country's consulate or embassy. They all have health departments with staff who can recommend the best English-speaking doctors and hospitals in the area.

Common Diseases & Ailments

Dietary Distress -- It's unfortunate, but many travelers to Central America do suffer from some sort of food or waterborne illness. Most of this is just due to tender northern stomachs coming into contact with slightly more aggressive Latin American intestinal flora. Symptoms vary widely -- from minor cases of diarrhea to debilitating flulike illnesses. To minimize your chances of getting sick, be sure to always drink bottled or boiled water and avoid ice. In high altitudes, you will need to boil water for several minutes longer before it is safe to drink. If you don't have access to bottled water, you can treat it with iodine or chlorine, with iodine being more effective. You can buy water purification tablets at pharmacies and sporting-goods stores. You should also be careful to avoid raw food, especially meats, fruits, and vegetables. If you peel the fruit yourself, you should be fine.

If you do suffer from diarrhea, it's important to keep yourself hydrated. Many pharmacies sell Pedialyte, which is a mild rehydrating solution. Drinking fruit juices or soft drinks (preferably without caffeine) and eating salted crackers are also good remedies. In extreme cases of diarrhea or intestinal discomfort, it's worth taking a stool sample to a lab for analysis. The results will usually pinpoint the amoebic or parasitic culprit, which can then be readily treated with available over-the-counter medicines.

Typhoid fever is a food- or waterborne illness that occurs throughout Central America and is caused by salmonella. Long-term travelers should seriously consider getting a typhoid-fever vaccine before setting off, as the malaria-like symptoms are very unpleasant.

Hepatitis A is another viral infection acquired through water and food (it can also be picked up from infected people), this time attacking the liver. Usually the symptoms of fever, jaundice, and nausea will pass, but it can in some cases cause liver damage. There is an effective vaccine that you can take before the trip.

Tropical Illnesses -- Yellow fever is no longer a problem in Central America. However, if you are traveling from yellow-fever zones in South America or Africa you will require a vaccination certificate to enter Nicaragua and El Salvador.

Malaria does exist in Nicaragua and El Salvador, especially in rural areas. To protect yourself, use mosquito repellent with DEET, wear long-sleeved shirts and pants, and use mosquito nets. You can also take anti-malarial drugs before you go; consult your doctor about the pros and cons of such medications. Be sure to ask whether a recommended drug will cause you to be hypersensitive to the sun; it would be a shame to come down here for the beaches and then have to hide under an umbrella the whole time. Because malaria-carrying mosquitoes usually come out at night, you should do as much as possible to avoid being bitten after dark. Also, be aware that symptoms such as high fever, chills, and body aches can appear months after your vacation.

Dengue fever, transmitted by an aggressive daytime mosquito, is a risk in tropical environments and densely populated urban areas. As with malaria, the best prevention is to avoid mosquito bites; there is no vaccine available. Dengue is also known as "bone-break fever" because it is usually accompanied by severe body aches. The first infection with dengue fever will make you very sick but should cause no serious damage. However, a second infection with a different strain of the dengue virus can lead to internal hemorrhaging and could be life-threatening. If you are unfortunate enough to get it, take some paracetamol and lots of fluids.

Bees, Bugs & Bites -- Snakes, scorpions, and spiders rarely bite without provocation. Keep your eyes open and never walk barefoot. If you're in the jungle or rainforest, be sure to shake your clothes and check your shoes before putting them on. Africanized bees (the notorious "killer bees" of fact and fable) are common in this region, but there is no real danger of being attacked unless you do something silly like stick your hand into a hive. Other than mosquitoes, the most prevalent and annoying biting insect you are likely to encounter, especially along the coast, is sand flies. These tiny biting bugs leave a raised and itchy welt, but otherwise are of no significant danger. They tend to be most active around sunrise and sunset, or on overcast days. Your best protection is to wear light long-sleeved shirts and long pants.

The chances of contracting rabies while traveling in Nicaragua and El Salvador are low, but it's not completely impossible. Most infected animals live in rural areas. If you are bitten by an infected dog or bat, wash the wound and get yourself to a hospital as quickly as possible. There is a pre-vacation vaccine that requires three injections, but you should only get it if you are planning a high-risk activity such as cave exploring. Treatment is effective but must be given promptly.

Riptides -- Many of the Pacific coast beaches have riptides, strong currents that can drag swimmers out to sea. A riptide occurs when water that has been moved toward the shore by strong waves forms a channel back out to open water. These channels have strong currents. If you get caught in a riptide, you can't escape the current by swimming toward shore; it's like trying to swim upstream in a river. To break free of the current, swim parallel to shore and use the energy of the waves to help you get back to the beach. Note: Lifeguards are a rarity both here and in El Salvador.

Sunstroke -- Do not be a mad dog, nor an Englishman, for that matter. Do as the locals do and stay out of the midday sun. Your proximity to the equator means you burn much faster, and it's no accident that everybody escapes indoors between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.. Hats and a SPF 30 (or higher) sunscreen are wise accessories, and if you do manage overdo it on the beach, drink lots of water and treat burns with aloe vera.

Safety

Nicaragua is the safest country in Central America and has somehow avoided the chronic gang violence so prevalent in Honduras and El Salvador. Nevertheless, there are some dangerous neighborhoods to avoid, especially in Managua and if you choose to get around on public buses; in frequently crowded places such as markets, watch your stuff, as pickpockets and bag snatchers might be tempted.

Staying safe is generally a case of common sense. Stay alert and be aware of your surroundings; don't walk down dark, deserted streets; and always keep an eye on your personal belongings. Keep your passport and credit cards on your person (but not stuffed in your back pocket). It's a good idea to keep separate money amounts, so if you are unlucky, you do not lose everything. Theft at airports and bus stations is not unheard of, so be sure to put a lock on your luggage.

Always report crime to the nearest police station or call tel. 118. It may take up some precious time, but your insurance claim will be useless without an official police report. The police are, in general, honest but poorly paid, so you may be solicited for some sort of multa (fine) or even just a simple contribution to pay for their gas. Taxis are the way to go at night, especially in Managua. However, single women travelers should avoid getting into cabs that have multiple passengers.

Tips for Families

The only inconvenience you might find in Nicaragua regarding traveling with kids is the high price of disposable diapers. Otherwise, traveling with children will actually open doors and make the friendly locals even friendlier. Of course, you'll need to make commonsense accommodations choices, like paying the premium for the all-inclusive resort, rather than staying at the hippy surfer hostel. Also, bus travel might be just too much to handle if you have a trail of toddlers or teenagers behind you. Locations like Granada and San Juan del Sur are the most child-friendly, and the Corn Islands will give any 12-year-old pirate lots of room to roam.