The North is, for most visitors to Bali, the world on the other side of the mountains. It's the wild and open side of Bali that has been the least touched by recent tourism. The majority of tourism here is contained, mercifully, to the flat lands west of Lovina. The irony is that the regency of Buleleng is central to Bali's colonial history and hosted the old capital, the port of Singaraja, the major trading post for the Dutch, Chinese, and Arabs, and the disembarkation point for generations of visitors.