Planning a trip to Northern Italy

With such a long laundry list of historical treasures, epicurean pleasures, and equally tempting outdoor resorts, the hardest part of planning a trip to northern Italy will be deciding where to spend your time. Fortunately, much of what you will want to see and do can be dictated by the seasons, and anyway, with such short distances between the cities, a change of heart might be only a 2-hour train ride away.

Getting around northern Italy is a breeze (minus the city and highway traffic and the occasional jam-packed train), and getting to and from the region couldn't be easier with a nice selection of local airports and a very busy international airport in Milan.

In fact, it is so easy to travel to northern Italy that the greatest hindrance might be that the region is so very busy. You'll have to plan far ahead to get a nice hotel room in Milan -- especially during the spring and fall fashion weeks and the design trade show in April. Self-catered chalets in the Alps and the Dolomites fill up many months prior to the weeks around New Year's Eve, and the choicest spots on the Riviera and Cinque Terre are snapped up before it starts getting hot. As for Venice, it's a general mob scene in any month not containing an R and during any of its spectacular festivals. The secret is to plan your trip months in advance, or at least secure accommodations and tickets to museums and concerts in advance.

Other than that, if you do your homework on special events, pick the right place for the right season, and pack for a variety of climates, preparing for a trip to northern Italy should be pleasant and uncomplicated.

Tips for Student Travelers

The International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) was formed in 1949 to make travel around the world more affordable for students. Check out its website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same agency, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

In northern Italy, students will find many university cities that offer ample student discounts and inexpensive youth hostels. Padua is home to one of Italy's oldest universities, founded in 1222, and today it is still a thriving student city with a young university population that keeps the city's piazzas and cafes alive.

When to Go

The best time to visit northern Italy really depends on what you're planning to do. Skiers will find the best snow in the Dolomites in February and March, whereas sun worshippers will find the best sun and people-watching on the Riviera in the height of summer. Wine enthusiasts will find grapes on the vine in late summer and early fall, and might even take part in an early October harvest.

In a general sense, April to June and September and October are the most pleasant months for touring Italy -- temperatures are usually mild and the hordes of tourists not so intense. But starting in mid-June, the summer rush really picks up, and from July to mid-September, the country teems with visitors. (It should also be noted that the post-summer cooling rains come to northern Italy almost like clockwork on Sept. 1 and can last a week or two.)

August (with July a close runner-up) is the worst month to visit any Italian city. Not only does it get uncomfortably hot, muggy, and crowded with foreigners, but the entire country goes on vacation from at least August 15 to the end of the month -- and a good percentage of Italians take off the entire month, leaving the urban centers to the tourists. Venice in July and August is a swarming and sweltering Disneyland. Elsewhere, many hotels, restaurants, and shops are closed in mid-August -- except along the coast and on the islands, which is where most Italians head.

From late October to Easter, most tourist sights have shorter winter hours or close for renovation periods, many hotels and restaurants take a month or two off between November and February, beach destinations become padlocked ghost towns, and it can get much colder than you'd expect (it may even snow). The crowds thin remarkably, especially in Venice.

In mountain towns and ski resorts, high season is from mid-December through mid-March; low season is June, when many hotels are closed (which is a shame, for there's great hiking in the mountains during June's warm days).

High season on most airlines' routes to Milan usually stretches from June to the end of September, plus Christmas/New Year's week. This is the most expensive and most crowded time to travel. Shoulder season is from the Easter season (usually late Mar or Apr) to May, late September to October, and December 15 to 24. Low season is generally January 6 to mid-March, November 1 to December 14, and December 25 to March 31.

Dog Days of August -- Try to avoid traveling to Italy in August, as this is when most Italians take their ferie (vacations) and many shops and restaurants in the cities will be closed. Also keep in mind that many of the lodgings that will be open in August do not have air-conditioning.

Weather

It's hot all over Italy in summer, especially inland. The high temperatures begin in May (sometimes later for the Alps), often lasting until some time in late September. July and August can be impossible, which explains why life in the cities slows down considerably (and life in the coastline resorts comes alive). Few budget hotels have air-conditioning (and just a handful of hotels in all of Italy have discovered mosquito screens, so when you open the windows for some respite from the heat, you tend to invite dozens of tiny bloodsuckers in as well). In Venice, the November rains kick off acqua alte, when the lagoon backs up a few times each month, flooding the central city with .6 to 1.8m (2-6 ft.) of water (no joke). That may sound like an invitation to stay away, but I think it's one of the most remarkable times to be there. Bring rubber boots.

Winters in the north of Italy are cold with rain and snow, and December through February can often be unpleasant unless you're skiing in Cortina or enjoy a snow-sprinkled city. Nights can be cold, and hotels' heating systems can be frustrating sometimes. Purpose-built, modernized hotels in their own buildings often have independent heating/cooling systems you (or they) can control, but in older hotels and in small ones that take up only part of a building, the heat can often be turned on for the winter only on a pre-established date dictated by the local government, and left on only during certain hours of the day (just one of the many lovely laws still hanging on from the Fascist era).

For the most part, it's drier in Italy than in North America. Since the humidity is lower, high temperatures don't seem as bad; exceptions are cities known for their humidity factor, such as Venice. It's important to remember that this is not a country as smitten by the notion of air-conditioning and central heating as the United States. And remember that the inexpensive hotels we list in this book are often the very places that will remind you of the pros and cons of ancient stone palazzi built with 1m-thick (3-ft.) walls. Don't expect the comfort of the Ritz at cheaper inns.

Holidays

Offices and shops in Italy are closed on the following dates: January 1 (New Year's Day), January 6 (Epiphany, usually called La Befana, after Italy's Christmas Witch, who used to bring the presents until Hollywood's version of Santa Claus moved the gift giving to Dec 25 by popular kiddie demand, though a few presents are always held over for La Befana), Easter Sunday, Easter Monday, April 25 (Liberation Day), May 1 (Labor Day), August 15 (Assumption of the Virgin -- much of Italy takes its summer vacation Aug 15-30), November 1 (All Saints' Day), December 8 (Feast of the Immaculate Conception), December 25 (Christmas Day), and December 26 (Santo Stefano); most Italians' Christmas holidays last from December 24 though January 6.

Closings are also observed in the following cities on feast days honoring patron saints: Venice, April 25 (St. Mark); Genoa and Turin, June 24 (St. John the Baptist); Bologna, October 4 (St. Petronio); Trieste, November 3 (San Giusto); and Milan, December 7 (St. Ambrose).

Health & Insurance

Staying Healthy

There are no special health risks you'll encounter in Italy. The tap water is safe -- excellent, even -- and medical resources are high quality.

General Availability of Healthcare -- With Italy's partially socialized medicine, you can usually stop by any hospital emergency room with an ailment, get swift and courteous service, receive a diagnosis and a prescription, and be sent on your way with a wave and a smile -- without filling out a single sheet of paperwork. However, the benefits of Italy's partially socialized medicine really apply only to Italians, so foreigners should be prepared to pay medical bills up front.

Pharmacies offer essentially the same range of generic drugs available in the United States, plus a lot of them that haven't been approved yet by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Pharmacies are also the only place you'll find simple stuff such as aspirin and run-of-the-mill cold medicines: You won't find Tylenol at any old corner store (even if there were such a thing as a corner store).

Strangely, though, I have found it very hard to locate decongestants in Italy the way you can in other countries. If you regularly suffer from a stuffy nose, it is best to pack a good supply of Sudafed with you before you leave.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

For travel abroad, you may have to pay all medical costs up front and be reimbursed later. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. Your health insurance in your home country may not cover any extended treatment abroad. However, even if you don't have insurance, you will be seen and treated in an emergency room, just as you would at home.

Northern Italy has good hospitals, and Italy's public health care system is generally well regarded.

Pharmacies in Italy are ubiquitous (look for the green cross) and they serve almost like mini-clinics, where pharmacists diagnose and treat minor ailments, like flu symptoms and general aches and pains, with over-the-counter drugs. In Italy, most over-the-counter drugs are available in either generic form or a local brand. You may want to pack a simple decongestant, which is oddly rare in Italy. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise, they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

Pharmacies in Venice, Milan, and several other towns in northern Italy often take turns doing the night shift. Normally there is a list posted at the entrance of each pharmacy, telling customers which pharmacy is open which night of the week.

If you experience an emergency, dial tel. 113, Italy's general emergency number. For an ambulance, call tel. 118.

Safety

Italy is a remarkably safe country, and in my opinion, northern Italy is one of the safest regions on Earth. The worst threats you'll likely face are the pickpockets that sometimes frequent touristy areas and public buses; just keep your valuables in an under-the-clothes money belt there and you should be fine. There are, of course, thieves in northern Italy, as there are everywhere, so be smart; don't leave anything valuable in your rental car overnight, and leave nothing visible in it at any time to avoid tempting a would-be thief. I have had a car full of valuables, including my passport, stolen on a respectable street in Milan, so it does happen. The fact that there is so little overt crime in Italy, though, is a good thing, as police enforcement is notoriously lax. If you do happen to be robbed, you can fill out paperwork at the nearest police station, but this is mostly for insurance purposes -- don't expect them to actually hunt down the perpetrator or find your lost valuables.

In general, avoid public parks at night and public squares in the wee hours of the morning. The square in front of Milan's main train station is pretty dodgy at any hour. Travelers -- especially young women -- should avoid the port area of Genoa after dark. Other than that, there is a remarkable sense of security in this wealthy corner of the world.

Unfortunately, a level of racism still exists in Italy, and recent immigrants from Africa are often discriminated against and are occasionally accused of committing the few crimes that do exist in northern Italy -- even if the accusations are unwarranted. As a result, people of African descent may meet some skeptical looks in the northeast especially, unless they clearly appear to be well-heeled Westerners. Late at night, however, if there is trouble around, police will probably not make any distinction at all.

Escorted & Package Tours

Academic Trips & Language Classes

A number of organizations offer intensive Italian language courses for adults in northern Italy, especially in Venice and Milan. A good budget option that attracts a variety of ages is the Venice Institute (www.istitutovenezia.com), which holds week-long courses in Venice and Trieste starting at 160€ for the week. (One of the other great values of the experience is staying at the secluded Palladian cloisters on the Giudecca for about 35€ per night for a single.) There are language courses for every ability level, and the instructors are certified in Italian as a second language.

Milan is a venue for Italian classes, because many employees of foreign countries relocate here without much of a background in the language. The International House of Milan (www.ihmilano.com) is well known in these circles, as it specializes in key sectors; for example, there is a 2-week program devoted to the language of the fashion and design industry, which costs 530€. A slightly more affordable option is the Scuola Leonardo da Vinci (www.scuolaleonardo.com), where a general 2-week course is available for 300€. It also has more specialized courses for food and gastronomy, and other subjects; prices and required fluency levels increase with specialization.

Bike Tours

In many ways, northern Italy is the birthplace of cycling, or at least home to many of the biggest names in the industry. Bianchi, Campagnolo, De Rosa, and Pinarello are all headquartered in Lombardy or the Veneto, regions that also host the most exciting stages of the Giro d'Italia, which ends in Milan.

Organizing your own bike tour is easy if you rely on a few resources. Arm yourself with a good map and make use of the resources of the Club Alpino Italiano, 7 Via E. Fonseca Pimental, Milan 20127 (tel. 02-2614-1378; fax 02-2614-1395; www.cai.it). You can rent a bike by the week or longer at outlets in most cities.

Several operators specialize in setting up itineraries and making some of the arrangements for you or in leading fully guided tours. Ciclismo Classico (tel. 800/866-7314 in the U.S., or 781/646-3377; fax 781/641-1512; www.ciclismoclassico.com) is one of the best operators and has been leading bike and walking tours in Italy since 1988. A week-long tour of Piedmont runs about 4,500€ per person, staying at premier accommodations. April through November, the outfit runs several guided tours through the Alps, Dolomites, and Fruili, and a pair of trips out of Venice. Six- to 15-day trips usually include Italian-language and cooking lessons, along with wine tasting and cultural itineraries. Groups average 10 to 18 people, with all ages and ability levels welcome.

Experience Plus (tel. 800/685-4565 in the U.S., or 970/484-8489; www.experienceplus.com) offers both guided and self-guided biking and walking tours through northern Italy lasting 8 or 9 days.

Walking Tours

If you don't feel the need to cover so much territory, you can appreciate even more of the countryside by walking or hiking (called trekking in Italian). Italy's resource for everything from countryside ambles to serious mountain trekking is the Club Alpino Italiano, 7 Via E. Fonseca Pimental, Milan 20127 (tel. 02-2614-1378; fax 02-2614-1395; www.cai.it).

Many outfits run walking tours in northern Italy. Besides Ciclismo Classico , you might want to try Butterfield & Robinson, 70 Bond St., Ste. 300, Toronto, ON M5B 1X3 (tel. 800/678-1147 or 416/864-1354; fax 416/864-0541; www.butterfield.com); or Country Walkers (tel. 800/464-9255 in the U.S., or 802/244-1387; www.countrywalkers.com), which has a rather refined, romantic outlook on Italy and offers several northern Italy tours, including tours in Cinque Terre and the lakes region.

For walking tours in Venice, one of the better resources is Context Travel (tel. 215/609-4888; www.contexttravel.com), which offers tours and seminars led by graduate students and other experts in their respective fields on everything from Renaissance art to ceramics to cuisine.

Food & Wine Trips

Just as it's not hard to find a cooking class in Italy (most top-flight hotels will show you how to make a classic northern Italian dish and pair it with the right wine for some extra money), nearly every organized tour will have a strong culinary component. For example, check out Discover Friuli (www.discoverfriuli.com), which combines language courses, cooking classes, and wine tours in a single program.

Wine tours in Italy are often a trade unto themselves. Most tourist boards will have a selection of guided tours of the vineyards in their province (mentioned in the individual chapters). Friuli is heavily promoting itself as a wine destination and has even unveiled a fleet of yellow Vespas (www.collioinvespa.it) as part of the promotion. These Vespas can be rented at various tour agencies in the region, such as Key Tre Viaggi (www.keytreviaggi.it), which offers a Vespa tour with a self-guided itinerary, private tours of vineyards, and a 2-night package in an agriturismo starting at 192€ per person.

There are also tour companies which concentrate solely on wine. Cellar Tours (www.cellartours.com), one of the better-known, high-end wine tour operators, will chauffer you in a Mercedes to the most prestigious vineyards in Piedmont, Friuli, and the Veneto, and put you up in five-star accommodations; their tours cost 375€ to 1,000€ per person, per day, depending on the trip. Sara Cossiga is an art historian, journalist, tour guide, and sommelier who offers wine-focused tours of Venice and the Veneto; contact Venice & Veneto Gourmet (www.venicevenetogourmet.com) for more information.

Cooking Schools

Italy's best-known cooking schools seem to be in Tuscany -- but northern Italy still has its share of cooking classes and excellent cuisine. LINGUA IT (tel. 045-597-975; www.linguait.it) is an Italian-language school in Verona which offers a course on the food and wine of the region. In Genoa, A Door to Italy (tel. 010-246-5870; www.adoortoitaly.com) offers 1-week and 2-week classes (for about 200€ per week), ranging from the basics of making pasta to preparing more elaborate Ligurian dishes.

Generally, small group classes at a local inn are more memorable culinary experiences. The Acquolina Venezia bed and breakfast (tel. 041-526-2336; www.acquolinavenezia.com) in Venice offers interesting and intimate cooking courses; take the boat out to Lido from San Marco and join Marika Seguso in her kitchen for a 4-hour course. First-timers learn how to prepare Venetian seafood dishes as well as innovative vegetable sides and classic desserts.

Some hotels also offer cooking classes. The Four Seasons (tel. 02-77088; www.fourseasons.com) in Milan recently launched its own cooking classes; half-day classes cost 90€ for guests, starting with a discussion of the daily menu with the hotel chefs and ending with a four-course lunch.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

From the priciest pampered tours to the most inexpensive bare-bones trips, you'll find no shortage of tour operators who offer tours to northern Italy. Many travelers opt for escorted tours because they let you sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility, and they can be a great way to make new friends. On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. While these escorted trips are hassle-free and often cost-efficient, there really is no substitute for exploring the back roads of northern Italy in small numbers, making spur-of-the-moment decisions and finding unexpected gems.

Some tour operators who offer downright cheap deals to northern Italy are Globus Escorted Tours (tel. 866/755-8581; www.globusjourneys.com), Insight Vacations (tel. 866/680-1241; www.insightvacations.com), and Trafalgar Tours (tel. 866/544-4434; www.trafalgar.com). It's hard to book your own hotels, transportation, and food for anything near the prices offered by these companies, but you likely won't stay or eat at top-notch establishments.

One higher-quality -- and more expensive -- tour operator is Go Ahead Tours (tel. 800/590-1170; www.goaheadtours.com). They offer refined trips that focus heavily on food and wine rather than just the standard tourist sites. For example, they offer an 11-day tour called "Venice, Como & the Italian Riviera."

For more information on escorted general-interest tours, including questions to ask before booking your trip, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing, consult a currency exchange website, such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic, to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Like many other European countries, Italy uses the euro as its currency. Euro coins are issued in denominations of .01€, .02€, .05€, .10€, .20€, and .50€, as well as 1€ and 2€; bills come in denominations of 5€, 10€, 20€, 50€, 100€, 200€, and 500€.

The aggressive evolution of international computerized banking and consolidated ATM networks has led to the triumph of plastic throughout the Italian peninsula -- even if cold cash is still the most trusted currency, especially in smaller towns or cheaper mom-and-pop joints, where credit cards may not be accepted. Traveler's checks, while still the safest way to carry money, are going the way of the dinosaur.

You'll get the best rate if you exchange money at a bank or one of its ATMs. The rates at "Cambio/change/wechsel" exchange booths are invariably less favorable but still a good deal better than what you'd get exchanging money at a hotel or shop (a last-resort tactic only). The bill-to-bill changers you'll see in some touristy places exist solely to rip you off.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), referred to in Italy as a "Bancomat." ATMs are very prevalent in the cities of northern Italy and are not as common in smaller towns and villages. While every town usually has one, it's good practice to fuel up on cash in urban centers, ideally during business hours. (International circuits seem to go off-line on occasion late at night and on weekends.) The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe. Go to your bank card's website to find ATM locations in northern Italy.

Be sure to check with your bank that your card is valid for international withdrawal and that you have a four-digit PIN. (Most ATMs in Italy will not accept any other number of digits.) Also, be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee, although this is not common practice in Italy. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

If at the ATM you get a message saying your card isn't valid for international transactions, don't panic: It's most likely the bank just can't make the phone connection to check it (occasionally this can be a citywide epidemic) or else simply doesn't have the cash. Try another ATM or another town.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are widely accepted in northern Italy these days, especially in hotels and larger establishments. However, it is always a good idea to carry some cash, since some small businesses may accept only cash or may claim that their credit card machine is broken to avoid paying fees to the credit card companies.

Visa and MasterCard are almost universally accepted at hotels, plus most restaurants and shops; the majority of them also accept American Express. Diners Club is gaining some ground. Note: It is an unfortunately common practice among many restaurants in Italy to claim that the credit card machine is down when, in fact, it is more often the case that the owner simply doesn't want to pay the merchant fees. On more than one occasion I've insisted that they try it just in case, as I had no cash, and -- surprise -- it's been instantly fixed! The best way to avoid this chicanery is to inform the waitstaff up front that you intend to use a credit card. If they tell you it's broken, you have the option of finding a restaurant where the machine "works."

Chip and PIN represent a change in the way that credit and debit cards are used. The program is designed to cut down on the fraudulent use of credit cards. More and more banks -- especially in Europe -- are issuing customers chip and PIN versions of their debit or credit cards. In the future, more and more vendors will be asking for a four-digit PIN, which will be entered into a keypad near the cash register. For now, traditional "swipe" cards are commonly accepted in northern Italy even though they are being phased out elsewhere, and chip cards are also commonly accepted.

Finally, be sure to let your bank know that you'll be traveling abroad to avoid having your card blocked after a few days of big purchases far from home. Note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

Calendar of Events

For more details on each event below, contact the tourist office of the city or town where the festival is held.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Epiphany celebrations, nationwide. All cities, towns, and villages in Italy stage Roman Catholic Epiphany observances and Christmas fairs. From Christmas to January 6.

Festival of Italian Popular Song, San Remo (Italian Riviera). A 3-day festival where major artists and up-and-comers perform the latest Italian pop songs and launch the newest hits. Late January.

Foire de Saint Ours, Aosta, Valle d'Aosta. Observing a tradition that has existed for 10 centuries, artisans from the mountain valleys come together to display their wares -- often made of wood, lace, wool, or wrought iron -- created during the long winter months. Late January.

February

Carnevale (Carnival), Venice. Venice's Carnival evokes the final theatrical 18th-century days of the Venetian Republic. Historical presentations, elaborate costumes, and music of all types in every piazza cap the festivities. The balls are by invitation, but the cultural events, piazza performances, and fireworks (Shrove Tuesday) are open to everyone. From two Fridays before Shrove Tuesday to Shrove Tuesday.

April

Good Friday and Easter Week observances, nationwide. Processions and age-old ceremonies -- some from pagan days, some from the Middle Ages -- are staged. Beginning on the Thursday or Friday before Easter Sunday, usually in April.

May

Voga Longa, Venice. This 30km (19-mile) rowing "race" from San Marco to Burano and back again has been enthusiastically embraced since its inception in 1975, following the city's effort to keep alive the centuries-old heritage of the regatta. The event is colorful, and every local seems to have a relative or next-door neighbor competing. For details, call tel. 041-521-0544. A Sunday in mid-May.

June & Events That Last Throughout the Summer

Regatta of the Great Maritime Republics. Every year, the four medieval maritime republics of Italy celebrate their glorious past with a boat race that rotates among Venice, Amalfi, Genoa, and Pisa. Call the tourist offices for details.

Biennale d'Arte, Venice. This is Europe's most prestigious -- and controversial -- International Exposition of Modern Art, taking place in odd-numbered years only. More than 50 nations take part, with art displayed in permanent pavilions in the Public Gardens and elsewhere about town. Many great modern artists have been discovered at this world-famous show. Contact the board at tel. 041-521-8711 (www.labiennale.org) for more information. June to October.

Shakespearean Festival, Verona. Ballet, drama, and jazz performances are included in this festival of the Bard, with a few performances in English. June to September.

July

Arena di Verona (Outdoor Opera Season in Verona), Verona. Culture buffs flock to the open-air, 20,000-seat Roman amphitheater, one of the world's best preserved. The season lasts from early July to August for awesome productions of Aïda and others.

Festa del Redentore (Feast of the Redeemer), Venice. This celebration marking the July 1576 lifting of a plague that had gripped the city is centered around the Palladio-designed Chiesa del Redentore on the island of Giudecca. A bridge of boats across the Giudecca Canal links the church with the banks of Le Zattere in Dorsoduro, and hundreds of boats of all shapes and sizes fill the Giudecca. It's one big floating festa until night descends and an awesome half-hour spettacolo of fireworks fills the sky. Third Saturday and Sunday in July.

August

Rossini Opera Festival, Pesaro. The world's top bel canto specialists perform Rossini's operas and choral works at this popular festival on the Italian Adriatic Riviera. Mid-August to late September.

Venice International Film Festival. Ranking after Cannes, this film festival brings together stars, directors, producers, and filmmakers from all over the world. Films are shown day and night to an international jury and to the public, at the Palazzo del Cinema, on the Lido, and other venues. Contact the tourist office or the Venice Film Festival (tel. 041-272-6501 or 041-524-1320; www.labiennale.org). Two weeks in late August to early September.

September

Regata Storica, Grand Canal, Venice. Just about every seaworthy gondola, richly decorated for the occasion and piloted by gondolieri in colorful livery, participates in the opening cavalcade. The aquatic parade is followed by three regattas that proceed along the Grand Canal. You can buy grandstand tickets through the tourist office or arrive early and pull up along a piece of embankment near the Rialto Bridge for the best seats in town. First Sunday in September.

Giostra del Saracino (Joust of the Saracen), Arezzo. A colorful procession in full historical regalia precedes the 13th-century-style tilting contest, with knights in armor in the town's main piazza. First Sunday in September.

Partita a Scacchi con Personnagi Viventi (Living Chess Game), Marostica. This chess game is played in the town square by living pawns in period costume. The second Saturday and Sunday of September during even-numbered years.

October

Sagra del Tartufo, Alba, Piedmont. The truffle is the honoree of this festival in Alba, the truffle capital of Italy, with contests, truffle-hound competitions, and tastings of this ugly but precious and delectable (and expensive) fungus. Two weeks in mid-October.

Maratona (Marathon), Venice. The marathon starts at Villa Pisani on the mainland, runs alongside the Brenta Canal, and ends along the Zattere for a finish at the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute on the tip of Dorsoduro. For details, call tel. 041-950-644. Usually the last Sunday of October.

November

Festa della Salute, Venice. For this festival, a pontoon bridge is erected across the Grand Canal to connect the churches of La Salute and Santa Maria del Giglio, commemorating another delivery from a plague in 1630 that wiped out a third of the lagoon's population; it's the only day La Salute opens its massive front doors (a secondary entrance is otherwise used). November 21.

December

La Scala Opera Season, Teatro alla Scala, Milan. At the most famous opera house of them all, the season opens on December 7, the feast day of Milan's patron St. Ambrogio, and runs into July. Though it's close to impossible to get opening-night tickets, it's worth a try; call tel. 02-860-787 or 02-860-775 for the box office, 02-7200-3744 for a listing of performances (www.teatroallascala.org).

Getting Around

By Car

Much of northern Italy is accessible by public transportation, but to explore remote vineyards, ski resorts, and smaller towns on the lakes, a car will be very useful. In fact, one of the most common and convenient ways to take a tour of this area is to fly or take a train into, say, Milan, see the city, and then pick up a rental car to wend your way through whichever bit takes your fancy before ending up in Genoa, Venice, or Bologna (or Florence or Rome to the south), where you can drop off the car and fly home.

That said, driving in Italy is also notoriously nerve-racking -- for both the winding roads and the Italian penchant for driving a Fiat like a Ferrari. Both rental-car and gas prices are as high as they get in all of Europe. Before leaving home, you can apply for an International Driver's Permit from the American Automobile Association (AAA; tel. 800/222-1134 or 407/444-4300; www.aaa.com). In Canada, the permit is available from the Canadian Automobile Association (CAA; tel. 613/247-0117; www.caa.ca). In the U.K., contact the British Automobile Association (AA; tel. 0800/26-20-50; www.theaa.com). Technically, you need this permit, your actual driver's license, and an Italian translation of the latter (also available from AAA and CAA) to drive in Italy, though in practice your license itself often suffices. (Take all three along, to be safe.)

Italy's equivalent of AAA is the Automobile Club d'Italia (ACI), a branch of the Touring Club Italiano. They're the people who respond when you place an emergency call to tel. 803-116 for road breakdowns, though they do charge for this service if you're not a member. If you wish, you may join at the border as you're driving into Italy or at one of the club's regional offices (in Milan, Viale Scarca 336, tel. 02-661-271). You can also join online at www.aci.it.

Driving Rules -- Italian drivers aren't maniacs; they only appear to be. Actually, they tend to be very safe and alert drivers -- if much more aggressive than Americans are used to. If someone races up behind you and flashes his lights, that's the signal for you to slow down so he can pass you quickly and safely. Stay in the right lane on highways; the left is only for passing and for cars with large engines and the pedal to the metal. If you see someone in your rearview mirror speeding up with his hazard lights blinking, get out of the way because it means his Mercedes is opened up full throttle. On a two-lane road, the idiot passing someone in the opposing traffic who has swerved into your lane expects you to veer obligingly over into the shoulder so three lanes of traffic can fit -- he would do the same for you. (Plus, the alternative is not pretty.)

Autostrade are superhighways, denoted by green signs and a number prefaced with an A, like the A1 from Rome to Florence. A few aren't numbered and are simply called raccordo, a connecting road between two cities (such as Florence-Siena and Florence-Pisa). On longer stretches, autostrade often become toll roads. Strade Statale are state roads, usually two lanes wide, indicated by blue signs. Their route numbers are prefaced with an SS or an S, as in the SS222 from Florence to Siena. On signs, however, these official route numbers are used infrequently. Usually, you'll just see blue signs listing destinations by name with arrows pointing off in the appropriate directions. Even if it's just a few kilometers down on the road, often the town you're looking for won't be mentioned on the sign at the appropriate turnoff. It's impossible to predict which of all the towns that lie along a road will be the ones chosen to list on a particular sign. Sometimes the sign gives only the first minuscule village that lies past the turnoff, at other times it lists the first major town down that road, and some signs mention only the major city the road eventually leads to, even if it's hundreds of kilometers away. It pays to study the map before coming to an intersection.

The speed limit on roads in built-up areas around towns and cities is 50kmph (31 mph). On rural roads and the highway, it's 110kmph (68 mph), except on weekends, when it's upped to 130kmph (81 mph). Italians have an astounding disregard for these limits, mostly because the limits are enforced only if the offense is egregious. However, police can ticket you and collect the fine on the spot. The blood-alcohol limit in Italy is 0.05%, often achieved with just two drinks, but this, too, is not enforced as often as it is in northern Europe or North America. Clearly drunk drivers, however, can expect to be arrested.

As far as parcheggio (parking) is concerned, on streets, white lines indicate free public spaces and blue lines indicate pay public spaces. Meters don't line the sidewalk; rather, there's one machine on the block where you punch in how long you want to park. The machine spits out a ticket that you leave on your dashboard. Sometimes streets will have an attendant who'll come around and give you your time ticket (pay him or her when you get ready to leave). If you park in an area marked PARCHEGGIO DISCO ORARIO, root around in your rental car's glove compartment for a cardboard parking disc (or buy one at a gas station). With this device, you dial up the hour of your arrival (it's the honor system) and display it on your dashboard. You're allowed un ora (1 hr.) or due ore (2 hr.), according to the sign. Parking lots have ticket dispensers, but booths are not usually manned as you exit. Take your ticket with you when you park; when you return to the lot to get your car and leave, first visit the office or automated payment machine to exchange your ticket for a paid receipt that you then use to get through the automated exit.

Road Signs -- Here's a brief rundown of the road signs you'll most frequently encounter. A speed limit sign is a black number inside a red circle on a white background. The end of a speed zone is just black and white, with a black slash through the number. A red circle with a white background, a black arrow pointing down, and a red arrow pointing up means yield to oncoming traffic, while a point-down red-and-white triangle means yield ahead. In town, a simple white circle with a red border, or the words zona pedonale or zona traffico limitato, denotes a pedestrian zone (you can drive through only to drop off baggage at your hotel); a white arrow on a blue background is used for Italy's many one-way streets; a mostly red circle with a horizontal white slash means do not enter. Any image in black on a white background surrounded by a red circle means that image is not allowed (for instance, if the image is two cars next to each other, it means no passing; a motorcycle means no Harleys permitted, and so on). A circular sign in blue with a red circle-slash means no parking.

Gasoline -- Benzina (gas or petrol) is even more expensive in Italy than in the rest of Europe. Even a small rental car can guzzle about 60€ for a fill-up. There are many pull-in gas stations along major roads and on the outskirts of town, as well as 24-hour rest stops along the autostrada highways, but in towns most stations are small sidewalk gas stands where you parallel park to fill up. Almost all stations are closed for riposo and on Sundays, but the majority of them now have a pump fitted with a machine that accepts bills so you can self-service your tank at 3am. Unleaded gas is senza piombo.

By Train

Italy has one of the best train systems in Europe, especially the northern half, and even traveling on a regional level you'll find many destinations connected. Most lines are administered by the state-run Ferrovie dello Stato, or FS (tel. 892-021 for national train info, or 199-166-177 to buy tickets; www.trenitalia.com), but servicing the Casentino and western Valdichiana in Tuscany is a private line called LFI, and northern Umbria is serviced by the private FCU. About the only difference you'll notice is that these private lines don't honor special discount cards or passes.

Italian trains are about as clean and comfortable as commuter trains in the United States, which is to say, it really depends. Though increasingly trains are of the boring straight-through commuter variety, on long-haul runs especially you'll still be blessed with those old-fashioned cars made up of couchette compartments that seat only six or occasionally eight. First class (prima classe) is usually only a shade better than second class (seconda classe), with four to six seats per couchette instead of six to eight. The only real benefits of first class comes if (a) you're traveling overnight, in which case four berths per compartment are a lot more comfortable than six or (b) the train is overcrowded, and first-class gives you much more breathing space and legroom.

Few visitors are prepared for how crowded Italian trains can sometimes get, though you can count your blessings that, with the increase in automobile travel, they're not as crowded as they were in times gone by. An Italian train is full only when the corridors are packed solid and there are more than eight people sitting on their luggage in the little vestibules by the doors. Overcrowding is often a problem on Friday evenings, weekends, and holidays, especially in and out of big cities, or just after a strike. In summer the crowding escalates, and any train going toward a beach in August all but bulges like an overstuffed sausage.

Italian trains come in six varieties based on how often they stop. The Eurostar (ES) is the "pendulum" train that zips back and forth between Naples and Milan, stopping at Rome, Florence, and Bologna along the way, and there is also one that crosses northern Italy (described earlier). It's the fastest but most expensive option (first class only, a meal included); it has its own ticket window at the stations and requires a seat reservation. Other Eurostar/Eurocity (ES/EC, EN if it runs overnight) trains connect Italian cities with cities outside the country; these are the speediest of the standard trains, offering both first and second class and always requiring a supplement (except for Eurail passholders, though the conductors won't always believe you on this one); Intercity (IC) trains are similar to Eurocity trains in that they offer both first and second class and require a supplement, but they never cross an international border.

Of the regular trains that don't require supplements -- often called Regionale (R) if they stay within a region (Tuscany) or Interregionale (IR) if they don't (Tuscany to Umbria) -- the Espresso stops at all the major and most of the secondary stations, the Diretto stops at virtually every station, and the snail-paced Locale (sometimes laughingly called accelerato) frequently stops between stations in the middle of the countryside for no apparent reason.

When buying a regular ticket, ask for either andata (one-way) or andata e ritorno (round-trip). If the train you plan to take is an ES/EC or IC, ask for the ticket con supplemento rapido (with speed supplement) to avoid on-train penalty charges. On a trip under 200km (124 miles), your ticket is good to leave within the next 6 hours; over 200km, you have a full day. (This code isn't rigorously upheld by conductors, but don't push your luck.) On round-trip journeys of less than 250km (155 miles), the return ticket is valid only for 3 days. This distance-time correlation continues, with an extra day added to your limit for each 200km above 250km (the maximum is 6 days). If you board a regular train without a ticket (or board an IC/EC without the supplement), you'll have to pay a hefty "tax" on top of the ticket or supplement, which the conductor will sell you. Most conductors also get extremely crabby if you forget to stamp your ticket in the little yellow box on the platform before boarding the train.

Schedules for all lines running through a given station are printed on posters tacked up on the station wall. Binario (bin) means "track." You can also get official schedules (and more train information, some even in English) on the Web at www.ferroviedellostato.it.

Stations tend to be well run, with luggage storage facilities at all but the smallest and usually a good bar attached that serves surprisingly palatable food. If you pull into a dinky town with a shed-size or nonexistent station, find the nearest bar or tabacchi, and the man behind the counter will most likely sell you tickets.

Special Passes & Discounts -- To buy the Eurail Italy Pass, available only outside Italy and priced in U.S. dollars, contact Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com). You have 2 months in which to use the train a set number of days; the base number of days is 3, and you can add up to 7 more. For adults, the first-class pass costs $239, second class is $211. Additional days cost roughly $30 more for first class, $25 for second class. For youth tickets (25 and under), a 3-day pass is $171 and additional days about $20 each. Saver passes are available for groups of two to five people traveling together at all times, extending a discount of about $20 off an adult pass.

There are also Italy-Greece, Italy-Spain, and Italy-France combinations, in addition to a rail-and-drive pass. This is valid for 2 months, during which you can use 3 rail days and 2 car days (and add more car or rail days cheaply). Prices start at $398 for second-class tickets and an economy car. Fares vary depending on type of car.

When it comes to regular tickets, if you're under 26, you can buy at any Italian train station a 40€ Carta Verde (Green Card) that gets you a 10% discount for domestic trips and 25% on international connections on all FS tickets for 1 year. Present it each time you go to buy a ticket. A similar deal is available for anyone over 75 with the Carta d'Argento (Silver Card): 15% off domestic and 25% off international, for 30€. Children 11 and under always ride half-price (and can get the passes mentioned above at half-price), and kids under 4 ride free.

By Bus

Although trains are quicker and easier, you can get just about anywhere through a network of dozens of local, provincial, and regional bus lines, but in northern Italy you'll mainly be using buses in the cities where there is no subway or, in the case of Venice, boat, available. Schedules in cities are posted in a little box on the pole of the large orange or yellow signs that demarcate the stops. Keep in mind that in smaller towns buses exist mainly to shuttle workers and schoolchildren, so the most runs are on weekdays, early in the morning, and usually again around lunchtime.

A town's bus stop is usually either the main piazza or, more often, a large square on the edge of town or the bend in the road just outside the main city gate. You should always try to find the local ticket vendor -- if there's no office, it's invariably the nearest newsstand or tabacchi (signaled by a sign with a white T), or occasionally a bar -- but you can usually also buy tickets on the bus. You can also flag a bus down as it passes on a country road, but try to find an official stop (a small sign tacked onto a telephone pole). Tell the driver where you're going and ask him courteously if he'll let you know when you need to get off. When he says "E la prossima fermata," that means yours is the next stop. "Posso scendere?" (Poh-so shen-dair-ay?) is "May I please get off?"

Northern Italy Bus Lines -- Unlike in central Italy and even the South, buses in northern Italy have limited appeal, as nearly every town is easily reached by train. Popular destinations for buses include hard-to-reach ski areas in the Alps and Dolomites, isolated towns in the Veneto, the Lakes Region (although it is a much prettier ride by boat), and beach resorts along the Ligurian coast.

Austostradale, with an office in Piazza Castello, Milan (tel. 166-845-010; www.autostradale.it), offers regular service to Aosta and to the Dolomite ski resorts of Madonna del Campiglio and Cortina d'Ampezzo. To move around the Dolomites, you can catch a bus from the unfortunately acronymed SAD company (tel. 0472-801-075; www.sad.it). To get to the Alpine resorts from Aosta, look for SAVDA buses (tel. 0165-841-397).

The Lakes Region is also best navigated by bus if you find the ferry schedule inconvenient. For towns on Lake Garda, contact SAIA (tel. 030-223-761) in Brescia or APT (tel. 045-800-4129) in Verona. For Lake Como, look for the blue SPT buses (tel. 031-304-744) in the center of any of the towns.

There is no shortage of local trains along the Ligurian coast (in fact, most trains stop in every small town, like it or not), but still a handful of companies operate bus service to popular destinations. One of them is Riviera Trasporti (tel. 0184-592-706; www.rivieratrasporti.it), which connects towns along the northern coast: San Remo, Imperia, Bordighera, and Ventimiglia.

In the Veneto, neither Bassano del Grappa nor Asolo is reachable by train. To get to Bassano, and then on to Asolo, you'll need to catch a FTV bus (tel. 0424-30-850; www.ftv.vi.it) in Vicenza.

Tips for Black Travelers

Italy for centuries was and, to a large degree, still is a homogenous culture. Add to that the fact that issues of race here are discussed so frankly and openly -- there's apparently no taboo to saying, in a loud voice, "That black guy over there. . . ." Moreover, the reality is that most people of African descent in Italy are working as street vendors, not bankers. All this may make travelers with darker skin feel -- correctly at times -- as if they're being singled out.

Pockets of outright racism do exist in Italy, especially in the Veneto and the Northeast in general. There African and South Asian workers fill the need for low-paid labor and, according to outfits like the Northern League, are generally responsible for any crime that might occur in the streets. Skinhead violence is extremely rare, but you might expect the occasional slur from a soccer hooligan and maybe some sideways glances from a few provincial old men.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The country code for Italy is 39. City codes (for example, Milan’s is 02, Venice’s is 041) are incorporated into the numbers themselves. Therefore, you must dial the entire number, including the initial zero, when calling from anywhere outside or inside Italy and even within the same town. To call Milan from the States, you must dial 011-39-02, then the local phone number. Phone numbers in Italy can range anywhere from 6 to 12 digits in length

Business Hours -- General open hours for stores, offices, and churches are from 9:30am to noon or 1pm and again from 3 or 3:30pm to 7:30pm. That early afternoon shutdown is the riposo, the Italian siesta. Most stores close all day Sunday and many also on Monday (morning only or all day). Some shops, especially grocery stores, also close Thursday afternoons. Some services and business offices are open to the public only in the morning. Traditionally, museums are closed Monday, and though some of the biggest stay open all day long, many close for riposo or are only open in the morning (9am–2pm is popular). Some churches open earlier in the morning, but the largest often stay open all day. Banks tend to be open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 1:30pm and 2:30 to 3:30pm or 3 to 4pm.

Drinking Laws -- There is no legal drinking age in Italy, in the sense that a young person of any age can legally consume alcohol, but a person must be 16 years old in order to be served alcohol in a restaurant or a bar. Similarly, laws in other countries that exist in order to stamp out public drunkenness simply aren’t quite as necessary in Italy, where binge-drinking is unusual. Noise is the primary concern to city officials, and so bars generally close at 2am at the latest, though alcohol is commonly served in clubs after that. Supermarkets generally carry beer, wine, and sometimes spirits.

Electricity -- Italy operates on a 220 volts AC (50 cycles) system, as opposed to the United States’ 110 volts AC (60 cycles) system. You’ll need a simple adapter plug (to make the American flat pegs fit the Italian round holes) and, unless your appliance is dual-voltage (as some hair dryers, travel irons, and laptops are), an electrical currency converter. You can pick up the hardware at electronics stores, travel specialty stores, luggage shops, airports, and from Magellan’s catalog (www.magellans.com).

Embassies & Consulates -- The Australian Embassy is in Rome at Via Antonio Bosio 5 (📞 06-8527-21; www.italy.embassy.gov.au). Australia’s consulate in Milan is at Via Borgogna 2 (3rd floor; 📞 02-777-041; fax 02-7770-4242).

The Canadian Embassy is in Rome at Via Zara 30 (📞 06-85444-3937; www.canada.it). The Canadian consulate in Milan is at Via Vittor Pisani 19 (📞 02-67581), open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 4pm.

The New Zealand Embassy is in Rome at Via Clittuno 44 (📞 06-853-7501; www.nzembassy.com/italy). New Zealand’s Milan consulate is at Via Terragio 17 (📞 02-721-70001; fax 02-4801-2577), open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 12:45pm and 1:45 to 5pm.

The U.K. Embassy is in Rome at Via XX Settembre 80a (📞 06-4220-0001; fax 06-4220-2334; www.britain.it), open Monday through Friday from 9:15am to 1:30pm. The U.K. consulate in Milan is at Via San Paolo 7 (📞 02-723-001; fax 02-869-2405). It’s open Monday to Friday 9:30am to 12:30pm and 2:30 to 4:30pm.

The U.S. Embassy is in Rome at Via Vittorio Veneto 119a (📞 06-46-741; fax 06-488-2672 or 06-4674-2217; www.usembassy.it). The U.S. consulate in Milan—for passport and consular services but not for visas—is at Via Principe Amadeo 2/10 (📞 02-290-351; fax 02-2900-1165), open to drop-ins Monday through Friday from 9am to 12:30pm. Afternoons 2 to 4:30pm, the consulate is open by appointment only; call ahead.

Emergencies -- Dial 📞 113 for any emergency. You can also call 📞 112 for the carabinieri (police), 📞 118 for an ambulance, or 📞 115 for the fire department. If your car breaks down, dial 📞 116 for roadside aid courtesy of the Automotive Club of Italy.

Gasoline -- Benzina (gas or petrol) is even more expensive in Italy than in the rest of Europe. Even a small rental car guzzles 40€ to 60€ for a fill-up. Unleaded gas is senza piombo. An important thing to remember is that petrol stations in Italy rarely accept U.S. credit cards in the after-hour machines, which will usually take only cash and Italian ATM/debit cards. For that reason, it’s always wise to stop and fill up if you see an open gas station.

Holidays -- Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums in Italy are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day), January 6 (Epiphany), Easter Sunday and the following Monday (called pasquetta, or Little Easter), April 25 (Liberation Day), May 1 (Labor Day), August 15 (Feast of the Assumption), November 1 (All Saint’s Day), December 8 (Immaculate Conception), and December 25 and December 26 (Santo Stefano).

Hospitals -- In Milan, the Ospedale Maggiore Policlinico (📞 02-5503-3103; www.policlinico.mi.it) is centrally located a 5-minute walk southeast of the Duomo at Via Francesco Sforza 35 (Metro: Duomo or Missori). In Venice, the Ospedale Civile Santi Goivanni e Paolo (📞 041-785111), on Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo, has English-speaking staff and provides emergency service 24 hours a day (vaporetto: San Toma).

Insurance -- Italy may be one of the safer places you can travel in the world, but accidents and setbacks can and do happen, from lost luggage to car crashes. For information on traveler’s insurance, trip cancelation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Internet Access -- Cybercafes are in healthy supply in most Italian cities. In smaller towns, you may have a bit of trouble, but increasingly hotels are offering Wi-Fi throughout the rooms, although those in rural areas are not as likely to have a high-speed connection. In a pinch, hostels, local libraries, and often pubs will have some sort of terminal for access.

Language -- Italians may not be quite as polished with their English as some of their European counterparts, but they’ve been hosting Anglophones for a long time now, and English is a regular part of any business day. In very rural parts, slow and clear speech, a little gesticulating, and a smile will go a long way. In Venice and other cities, you will probably be the 20th English-speaking tourist they’ve spoken with that day.

Legal Aid -- Your embassy or consulate can provide a list of foreign attorneys, should you encounter legal problems in Italy. In criminal cases, if you cannot afford an attorney, the local court will provide one for you.

Mail -- At press time, the cost of sending a postcard or letter up to 20 grams, or a little less than an ounce, was 0.65€ to other European countries, 0.85€ to North America, and 1€ to Australia and New Zealand. Prices go up incrementally to 5.70€/8.70€/11.70€ for letters weighing up to 500 grams, or nearly 1 pound. For a full table, visit www.poste.it; there is an English version.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The International Herald Tribune (published by the New York Times and with news catering to Americans abroad) and USA Today are available at just about every newsstand, even in smaller towns. You can find the Wall Street Journal Europe, European editions of Time and Newsweek, the Economist, and just about any major European newspaper or magazine at the larger kiosks.

Police -- For emergencies, call 📞 113. Italy has several different police forces, but there are only two you’ll most likely ever need to deal with. The first is the urban polizia, whose city headquarters is called the questura and can help with lost and stolen property. The most useful branch—the cops to go to for serious problems and crimes—is the carabinieri (📞 112), a national order-keeping, crime-fighting civilian police force.

Smoking -- Smoking has been eradicated from all restaurants and bars in Italy, as well as most hotels. That said, there are still smokers in Italy, and they tend to take the outside tables. Be aware that if you are keen for an outdoor table, you are essentially choosing a seat in the smoking section, and requesting that your neighbor not smoke may not be politely received.

Taxes -- There’s no sales tax added onto the price tag of your purchases, but there is a 19% value-added tax (in Italy: IVA) automatically included in just about everything. For major purchases, you can get this refunded. Some four- and five-star hotels don’t include the 13% luxury tax in their quoted prices. Ask when making your reservation.

Time -- All of Italy is in the same Western European time zone—that is, GMT plus 1 hour.

Tipping -- In hotels, a service charge is usually included in your bill. In family-run operations, additional tips are unnecessary and sometimes considered rude. In fancier places with a hired staff, however, you may want to leave a .50€ daily tip for the maid, pay the bellhop or porter 1€ per bag, and tip a helpful concierge 2€ for his or her troubles. In restaurants, 10% to 15% is almost always included in the bill—to be sure, ask “è incluso il servizio?”—but you can leave up to an additional 10%, especially for good service. At bars and cafes, a generous gesture is to leave a 1€ coin per drink on the counter for the barman, though it is hardly expected; if you sit at a table, leave 10% to 15% only if the service is good. Taxi drivers expect 10% to 15%.

Toilets -- Aside from train stations and petrol stations, where the typical donation to use the toilet is measured in .05€ pieces, public toilets are few and far between in northern Italy. Standard procedure is to enter a café, make sure the bathroom is not “out of order” (fuori servizio), and then order a cup of coffee before bolting to the WC. In Venice, the price of using a toilet is a little steeper: about 1€ in the major squares and parking garages, but they usually close at 8pm. It is advisable to always make use of the facilities in the hotel, restaurant, and bar before a long walk around the calles.

Visas -- Travelers from Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the U.S., and the U.K. can visit Italy for up to 90 days without a visa, and can enter Italy with a valid passport. Visits of more than 90 days may require a visa, but the requirements vary depending on the purpose of your visit.

For more information on visas to visit or stay in Italy, go to the Foreign Ministry’s English-language page at www.esteri.it/visti/index_eng.asp.

Water -- Although most Italians take mineral water with their meals, tap water is safe everywhere. (Unsafe sources will be marked “acqua non potabile.”) In fact, Veniceis now urging its citizens to cut back on their plastic-wasting ways and turn back to the tap. If the water comes out cloudy, it’s only the calcium or other minerals inherent in a water supply that often comes untreated from fresh springs. Also, the water from fountains in public parks is not only potable, it’s often the best water you’ve ever tasted.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Italy as a whole, and northern Italy in particular, is gay-friendly. Homosexuality is legal, and the age of consent is 16. Luckily, Italians are already more affectionate and physical than Americans in their general friendships, and even straight men occasionally walk down the street with their arms around each other -- however, kissing anywhere other than on the cheeks at greetings and goodbyes will certainly draw attention. As you might expect, smaller towns tend to be less permissive and accepting than cities. Milan has the largest and most visible homosexual population, and during fashion week especially, gay travelers will feel particularly at home.

Italy's national association and support network for gays and lesbians is ARCI-Gay/ARCI-Lesbica. The national website is www.arcigay.it, and every city has a local office. In Venice, it is found at San Polo 2003 (tel. 340-593-8934); in Trieste, Via Pondares 8 (tel. 040-630-606); in Verona, Via Gela 9 (tel. 045-810-6253); in Milan, Via Bezzecca 3 (tel. 02-54-12-22-25; www.arcigaymilano.org); in Genoa, Corso Torino 46/1 (tel. 010-565971; http://nuke.arcigaygenova.it); and in Turin, Via Fratelli Faa di Bruno 2 (tel. 011-19-70-31-45; www.arcigaytorino.it).

Tips on Accommodations

Italy ceased to be the country of the cheap pensione a long time ago. In fact, it takes some searching these days to find a hotel room with a shared bathroom.

Hotels are rated by regional boards on a system of one to five stars. Prices aren't directly tied to the star system, but for the most part, the more stars a hotel has, the more expensive it'll be -- but a four-star in a small town may be cheaper than a two-star in Venice. The number of stars awarded a hotel is based strictly on the amenities offered and not how clean, comfortable, or friendly a place is, or whether it's a good value for the money overall.

A few of the four- and five-star hotels have their own private garages, but most city inns have an agreement with a local garage. In many small towns, a garage is unnecessary because public parking, both free and pay, is widely available and never too far from your hotel. Parking costs and procedures are indicated under each hotel, and the rates quoted are per day (overnight). It should go without saying that there are no garages in Venice, as there are no cars.

The high season throughout most of northern Italy runs from Easter to early September or October -- peaking June through August -- and from December 24 to January 6. You can almost always bargain for a cheaper rate if you're traveling in the shoulder season (early spring and late fall) or winter off season (not including Christmas). In these reviews, I usually quote a range of prices. If there is one figure only, that represents the maximum. Prices vary so wildly, depending entirely on availability, that sometimes the only dependable figure is the highest the hotel is allowed to charge. The moral of the story: If it seems like availability is high, you should be getting a discount.

Supposedly, Italian hotels must quote the price for breakfast separately from the room and can't force it on you if you don't want it. However, most hotels include breakfast automatically in the room rate, hoping you won't notice, and many also argue that breakfast is required at their hotel. I've tried to include the separate per-person breakfast price for each hotel. With very few exceptions, Italian hotel breakfasts tend to consist of a brioche, or croissant (called a cornetto anywhere south of Bologna), and coffee, occasionally with juice and fresh fruit as well. It's rarely worth the 3€ to 15€ charged for it, since you can get the same breakfast -- and freshly made instead of packaged -- for around 2€ at the bar down the block. Ask for your room quote with a prezzo senza colazione (pretz-zoh sen-zah coal-lat-zee-oh-nay), or price without breakfast.

Agriturismo (Staying on a Farm)

The agriturismo movement is gaining ground in Italy. Though Tuscany is at the forefront of this movement, northern Italy also highlights this rural movement. Agriturismi are working farms or agricultural estates that offer accommodations to visitors who want to stay out in the countryside. An operation can call itself agriturismo only if (a) it offers fewer than 30 beds total, and (b) the agricultural component of the property brings in a larger economic share of profits than the hospitality part -- in other words, the property has to remain a farm and not become just a rural hotel. That's why you'll almost always be offered homemade sausages, home-pressed olive oil, and so on, either because they've been doing it that way for years or because these country barons essentially have been required to become farmers by law.

Agriturismi are generally a crapshoot. The types of accommodations can vary dramatically. Most, though, are mini apartments, usually rented out with a minimum stay of 3 days or a week. Sometimes you're invited to eat big country dinners at the table with the family; other times you cook for yourself. Rates can vary from 60€ for two per day to 250€ and beyond -- as much as a board-rated four-star hotel in town. I've reviewed a few choice agriturismi throughout this book, but there are hundreds more.

If you feel handy enough with Italian, you can avail yourself of the three independent national organizations that together represent all agriturismi (or, at least, all the reputable ones).

Go to the website of Terranostra (www.terranostra.it) and click on "La tua vacanza," then "Ricerche." This will bring up a map of Italy. Mouse over each region, and you'll find a list of local agriturismi; for example, in Lombardia, you'll find over 100 choices. They are arranged, unfortunately, alphabetically by name of the actual property (not by, say, town, which would make selecting one so much easier), with price categories of basso (low), medio (medium), and alto (high). Click on the property name, and you'll get a review with pictures and symbols (in Italian, but understandable enough), plus contact info and a link to the place's own website, if available.

At the site of Turismo Verde (www.turismoverde.it), click on "Scegli il tuo Agriturismo," and choose from a list of regions and then provinces (for example, click on Liguria and then La Spezia for something in or near Cinque Terre); this will give you a list of local agriturismi. Another useful website is Agriturist (www.agriturist.it), which is easy to navigate and offers its text in English. You can find hundreds upon hundreds of individual properties via a search engine.

In the States, a few agencies will help you track down a perfect agriturismo in Italy; Ralph Levey's Italy Farm Holidays, 547 Martling Ave., Tarrytown, NY 10591 (tel. 914/631-7880; fax 914/631-8831; www.italyfarmholidays.com), represents a few northern Italian properties and can help you book a stay there. For apartment, farmhouse, or cottage stays of 2 weeks or more, Idyll Untours (tel. 888-868-6871; www.untours.com) provides exceptional vacation rentals for a reasonable price -- which includes air/ground transportation, cooking facilities, and on-call support from a local resident. Best of all: Untours -- named the "Most Generous Company in America" by Newman's Own -- donates most profits to provide low-interest loans to underprivileged entrepreneurs around the world.

Villa Rentals

Each summer, thousands of visitors rent an old farmhouse, or "villa," a marketing term used to inspire romantic images of manicured gardens, a Renaissance mansion, and chianti martinis, but in reality this term guarantees no more than four walls and most of a roof.

Actually, finding your countryside Eden isn't that simple, and if you want to ensure a romantic and memorable experience, brace yourself for a lot of research and legwork. Occasionally, you can go through the property owners themselves, but the vast majority of villas are rented out via agencies.

Shop around for a trustworthy agent or representative. Often several outfits will list the same property but charge radically different prices. At some, you sign away any right to refunds if the place doesn't live up to your expectations. Make sure the agency is willing to work with you to find the right property. Try to work with someone who has personally visited the properties you're considering, and always ask to see lots of photos: Get the exterior from several angles to make sure the railroad doesn't pass by the back door, as well as pictures of the bedrooms, kitchen, and bathrooms, and photos of the views out each side of the house.

If you're traveling with other couples, ask to see a floor plan to make sure access to the bathroom isn't through one couple's bedroom. Find out if this is the only villa on the property -- some people who rent the villa for the isolation find themselves living in a small enclave of foreigners all sharing the same small pool. Ask whether the villa is purely a rental unit or if, say, the owning family lives there during winter but lets it out during summer. Renting a lived-in place offers pretty good insurance that the lights, plumbing, heat, and so on will all be working.

One of the best agencies to call is Rentvillas.com (formerly Rentals in Italy), 700 E. Main St., Ventura, CA 93001 (tel. 800/726-6702 or 805/641-1650; fax 805/641-1630; www.rentvillas.com). Its agents are very helpful in tracking down the perfect place to suit your needs. A U.K. agency -- and one of the best all-around agents in Britain -- is International Chapters, a division of Abercrombie & Kent, Sloane Square House, Holbein Place, London SW1W 8NS (tel. 08450/700-618). Marjorie Shaw's Insider's Italy, 41 Schermerhorn St., Brooklyn, NY 11201 (tel. 718/855-3878; fax 718/855-3687; www.insidersitaly.com), is a small, upscale outfit run by a very personable agent who's thoroughly familiar with all of her properties and with Italy in general.

The Parker Company Ltd., Seaport Landing, 152 Lynnway, Lynn, MA 01902 (tel. 800/280-2811 or 781/596-8282; fax 781/596-3125; www.theparkercompany.com), handles overseas villa rentals and offers several properties in northern Italy.

For some of the top properties, call the local representative of the Cottages to Castles group. In the United Kingdom, contact Cottages to Castles, Tuscany House, 10 Tonbridge Rd., Maidstone, Kent ME16 8RP (tel. 1622/775-217; www.cottagestocastles.com).

One of the most reasonably priced agencies is Villas and Apartments Abroad, Ltd., 370 Lexington Ave., Ste. 1401, New York, NY 10017 (tel. 212/897-5045; fax 212/897-5039; www.vaanyc.com). Homeabroad.com, 22 Railroad St., Great Barrington, MA 02130 (tel. 413/528-6610; www.homeabroad.com), handles hundreds of rather upscale properties. A popular but very pricey agency is Villas International, 4340 Redwood Hwy., Ste. D309, San Rafael, CA 94903 (tel. 800/221-2260 or 415/499-9490; fax 415/499-9491; www.villasintl.com).

House-Swapping

House-swapping is becoming a more popular and viable means of travel; you stay in their place, they stay in yours, and you both get a more authentic and personal view of a destination, the opposite of the escapist retreat many hotels offer. Try HomeLink International (http://homelink.org), the largest and oldest home-swapping organization, founded in 1952, with more than 11,000 listings worldwide ($115 yearly membership). InterVac.com ($100 for over 10,000 listings) is also reliable. Craigslist.org also has an extensive list of housing swap options in Italy, as many Italians are eager to find a cheap vacation alternative in American cities.

Staying Healthy

Academic Trips & Language Classes

Bike Tours

Several operators specialize in setting up itineraries and making some of the arrangements for you or in leading fully guided tours. Ciclismo Classico ★★ (tel. 800/866-7314 in the U.S., or 781/646-3377; fax 781/641-1512; www.ciclismoclassico.com) is one of the best operators and has been leading bike and walking tours in Italy since 1988. A week-long tour of Piedmont runs about 4,500€ per person, staying at premier accommodations. April through November, the outfit runs several guided tours through the Alps, Dolomites, and Fruili, and a pair of trips out of Venice. Six- to 15-day trips usually include Italian-language and cooking lessons, along with wine tasting and cultural itineraries. Groups average 10 to 18 people, with all ages and ability levels welcome.

Walking Tours

Food & Wine Trips

Cooking Schools

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Staying Connected

If you want to be in touch, it is a good idea to rent a cellphone on your visit to northern Italy. Pay phones have not entirely gone by the wayside, but these days there are very few pay phones in Italy -- a place where there are far more cellular numbers than land line numbers.

Alternatively, you can buy phone cards with special fixed rates to the United States, Canada, Australia, and other countries (una carta telefonica prepagata per chiamare gli Stati Uniti, Canada . . .). The rates on these phone cards are heavily discounted from what you would pay from a land line and far less expensive than calling abroad from a cellphone. Newsstands and tobacconists in cities carry these cards.

Telephones

To call northern Italy:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.

2. Dial the country code 39.

3. Dial the city code (for Milan: 02) and then the number. (Do not drop the initial 0 as you might in other European countries.) Even when calling within Italy, you always need to dial the city code first.

To make international calls: To make international calls from Italy, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800.

For directory assistance: Each cellphone carrier has its own directory assistance number, which is listed automatically in the address book of your SIM card. For Telecom Italia, and its mobile carrier, TIM, the directory assistance number is tel. 412.

For operator assistance: For operator assistance in making either a domestic or an international call from a Telecom Italia land line, call tel. 170.

Toll-free numbers: Numbers in Italy beginning with 800 or 877, and a few others beginning with 8, are toll-free, but calling a 1-800 number in the States from Italy is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Cellphones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system and you have a world-capable multiband phone such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across civilized areas around much of the globe, including Italy. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high -- usually $1 to $1.50 in Italy. Coverage with major carriers is excellent in northern Italy cities, like Milan, but can be spotty sometimes in the region's less populated countryside.

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, we suggest renting the phone before you leave home. There are a number of places in Milan where you can rent cellphones, but it is generally expensive.

Buying a phone can be economically attractive, as Italy has relatively cheap prepaid phone programs. Once you arrive at your destination, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package; you'll pay less than $100 for a phone and a starter calling card. The best deals will probably be in Milan. The city's principal train station, Stazione Centrale, has several cellular stores in the lower-level shopping center. Local calls may be as low as 10¢ per minute, and incoming calls are free.

Internet & E-Mail

More and more hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers are going Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity), becoming "hotspots" that offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. Most hotels and lots of wine bars and Irish pubs in Milan have wireless Internet access, as do many hotels throughout northern Italy. In Milan, a reliable cafe to go to for wireless Internet access is Bar Magenta, on Carducci 13 at Corso Magenta (tel. 02-805-3808).

Most major airports have Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices. Both of Milan's airports offer wireless Internet access; visit www.sea-aeroportimilano.it for more information.

If you are bringing your own computer, keep in mind that the outlets are 220V in Italy, and you will need an adapter for a U.K. or North American plug -- the same one used for France and most of the rest of the Continent.

If you're not traveling with your own computer, you'll generally find small Internet cafes scattered around high-density tourist locales throughout northern Italy. A reliable Internet cafe in Milan is Grazia Internet Café, Piazza Duca d'Aosta 14 (tel. 02-670-0543), a large computer lab just outside Milan's Stazione Centrale. In Venice, one of the bigger Internet cafes is Venetian Navigator (Casselleria 5300; tel. 041-277-1056; www.venetiannavigator.com), which is between San Marco and the Grand Canal.

Regions in Brief

Venice & the Veneto

The Po River created the vast flood plain of the Veneto under the brow of pre-Venetian Alps to the north and the Dolomites in the west. What draws visitors to these agricultural flatlands are the art treasures of Padua (Padova), the Renaissance villas of Palladio in Vicenza, the ancient Roman and pseudo-Shakespearean sights of Verona, and -- rising on pilings from a lagoon on the Adriatic coast -- that most serene city of canals and year-round carnival, Venice (Venezia).

The Friuli-Venezia Giulia

This forgotten northeast corner of Italy marks the border with Slovenia, a region of tame Alps, rolling hills, and Adriatic beaches. Its culture lies at the crossroads of Italy, Yugoslavia, and Austria -- the Adriatic city of Trieste was once the main port for Vienna and the Habsburgs, and has the coffeehouses to prove it. The influence of the old, neighboring sea power Venice is still strong in its staunch ally of Udine, while nearby Cividale dei Friuli preserves remnants of cultures from the Celts through the Lombards, with coastal Aquilea weighing in with Roman ruins and mosaics.

The Dolomites & South Tirol

The Dolomites, bordering Austria, cap the eastern stretches of the South Tirol region with sharp pinnacles straight out of a fairy tale, while the peaks of the Alps crown the west. This region comprises legendary resorts such as Cortina d'Ampezzo and Merano, as well as cities such as Trent (Trento) and Bolzano -- home to a fascinating international scientific treasure, the prehistoric Ice Man -- that lie at the crossroads of the German and Italian worlds.

Milan & Lombardy

Lombardy (Lombardia) is Italy's wealthiest province, an industrial, financial, and agricultural powerhouse named for the Lombards, a Germanic people who migrated south over the Alps in the early Dark Ages (they were part of the barbarian hordes that overran the Roman Empire). Beyond its Po Valley factories and cities, the scenic diversity of this prosperous region ranges from legendary lakes like Como, Garda, and Maggiore backed by Alpine peaks to the fertile plains of the Po River. The region's capital, Milan (Milano) -- hotbed of high fashion, high finance, and avant-garde design -- is a city of great art and architecture (Leonardo's The Last Supper is but the beginning), and the region's Renaissance past is still much in evidence in mountain town Bergamo, merchant city Mantua (Mantova), musical Cremona (where Stradivarius once crafted his violins), and the other cities of the Lombard plains.

Piedmont & the Valle d'Aosta

Piedmont (Piemonte) means "foot of the mountains," and the Alps are in sight from almost every parcel of Italy's northernmost province, which borders Switzerland and France. The flat plains of the Po River rise into rolling hills clad with orchards and vineyards. North of Turin -- the historic baroque capital of the region and, with its wealth of auto factories, a cornerstone of Italy's "economic miracle" -- the plains meet the Alps head-on in the Valle d'Aosta, with its craggy mountains, rugged mountain folk, and year-round skiing at resorts such as Courmayeur and Entrèves in the shadow of Mont Blanc.

Liguria: the Italian Riviera

The Italian Riviera follows the Ligurian Sea along a narrow coastal band backed by mountains. At the center of the rocky coast of Liguria is Genoa (Genova), the country's first port and still its most important -- a fascinating city that greets visitors with a remarkable assemblage of Renaissance art and architecture. Some of Italy's most famous seaside retreats flank Genoa on either side, from the tony resort of San Remo on France's doorstep all the way down to the picturesque string of fishing villages known as the Cinque Terre that line the coast just above Tuscany.

Getting There

By Plane

If you're flying across an ocean, you'll most likely fly into Milan's Malpensa Airport (MXP; tel. 02-2680-0613; www.sea-aeroportimilano.it), 45km (28 miles) from downtown -- closer to Como than to Milan itself.

From Malpensa, a 40-minute express train heads half-hourly to Cadorna train station in western Milan rather than to the larger and more central Stazione Centrale from which most trains onward to Tuscany will leave (you'll have to take the Metro to get there). The Malpensa Express train costs 11€. To grab a bus instead, which will take you directly to the central downtown rail station, take the Malpensa Shuttle (tel. 02-5858-3185) for 7€, which leaves two or three times per hour for the 50-minute ride to the east side of Milan's Stazione Centrale. A taxi to the city center runs about 70€.

For flights to Milan from within Europe, you might also fly into Linate Airport (LIN; tel. 02-7485-2200; www.sea-aeroportimilano.it), about 8km (5 miles) southeast of the city, a much more convenient option. From Linate, STAM buses (tel. 02-717-100) make the 20-minute trip to Milan's Stazione Centrale every 20 to 30 minutes daily from 7am to 11pm, and cost 2€. The slightly slower city bus no. 73 leaves hourly for the S. Babila Metro stop downtown (1€ for a regular bus ticket bought from any newsagent inside the airport, but not onboard).

From Milan's Stazione Centrale, you can get trains to Florence.

Flying Directly to Genoa, Bergamo, or Venice -- Budget carriers within Europe fly to a number of northern Italian cities; three of the most popular are Genoa's Cristoforo Colombo Airport (www.airport.genova.it), Bergamo's Orio al Serio (www.sacbo.it), and Venice's Marco Polo Airport (www.veniceairport.it).

In Venice, ATVO buses (www.atvo.it) run every 30 minutes between Piazzale Roma and the airport for 3€, and also run to the busy train station in nearby Mestre on a more frequent basis. Bergamo's airport is easily reached from Milan with a shuttle that leaves every 30 minutes from the main station, Stazione Centrale, which takes about an hour door-to-door and costs about 9€ one-way. Genoa's airport is very close to the downtown, taking 20 minutes on the bus (4€) that runs to the Stazione Principe.

By Car

If you're planning to drive to northern Italy, you'll likely need to rent a car. You'll get the best rental rate if you book your car from home instead of renting direct in Italy -- in fact, if you decide to rent once you're over there, it's worth it to call home to have someone arrange it all from there. You must be 25 or older to rent from most agencies (although some accept ages 21 and up).

The legalities and contractual obligations of renting a car in Italy (where accident and theft rates are very high) are more complicated than those in almost any other country in Europe. You must have nerves of steel, a sense of humor, a valid driver's license or International Driver's Permit (with photo), and a valid passport; and you must be 25 or over (some places accept 21). Payment and paperwork are much easier if you present a valid credit card with your completed rental contract (many companies won't even consider a non-credit card payment). If that isn't possible, you'll likely be required to pay a substantial deposit, sometimes in cash. Insurance on all vehicles is compulsory, though what kind and how much is up to you and your credit card company: Ask the right questions and check with your credit card company before leaving home.

Note: If you're planning to rent a car in Italy during high season, you really should book well in advance: It's not at all unusual to arrive at the airport in Milan in June and July to find that every last agent is all out of cars, perhaps for a week.

When offered the choice between a compact car and a larger one, always choose the smaller car (unless you have a large group) -- you'll need it for maneuvering the winding, steeply graded Italian roads and the impossibly narrow alleyways of towns and cities. Likewise, if you can drive a stick shift, order one; it'll help you better navigate the hilly terrain. It's also a good idea to opt for the Collision Damage Wavier (CDW). Although the 19% IVA value-added tax is unavoidable, you can do away with the government airport pickup tax of 10% by picking up your car at an office in town.

The main autostrada, or super highway, that runs the length of the Po valley from Turin to Trieste is the A4. From Milan, you'll need to follow the signs for the tangenziale, or beltway, that will eventually lead to an exit to whatever highway you choose. Getting onto the tangenziale, however, can be tricky. Insist on specific, detailed directions from the car rental agencies and make use of a co-pilot; otherwise, just do it the Italian way and feel your way onto it by intuition. If you're calm and patient, seemingly ridiculous road signs really do make sense.

Northern Italy is rather compact. Genoa to Milan, for example, is 129km (80 miles) on a highway where people regularly drive in excess of 129kmph (80mph). Milan to Verona is about 161km (100 miles), and Verona to Venice is another 121km (75 miles). Coast to coast, then, is only 4 hours, even at North American driving speeds -- that is when there is not traffic. In reality, this is the most traveled highway in all of Europe, so the going can get slow, especially on Friday afternoons and Sunday nights, and rush hour around the cities is epic. Plan to travel mid-week and midday, if possible. See www.autostrade.it for live traffic updates.

Tolls can also get expensive, costing about 1€ for every 19km (12 miles), which means that it would cost about 20€ for a trip from Genoa to Venice. Add in the gasoline and the car rental, and it's cheaper to take the train from city to city even with two people.

By Train

Traveling to northern Italy by train is the best option if you're looking to visit the major sites without the hassle of renting and driving a car. Most towns in northern Italy have their own train stations; the major train hubs are in Genoa, Turin, and Milan.

Along the major east-west train line in northern Italy, the distance from Turin to Milan is about an hour and 20 minutes; the trips costs 23€ (second class) on the Eurostar high-speed train. Milan to Verona is the same price (train travel in Italy is priced per kilometer, with different rates for the speed of the train and the class). Verona and Padua are 40 minutes apart by train, and the trip costs 13€. The train continues east to Venice; from Padua, it will take 20 minutes to get to Venice and will cost 12€. The fastest way to continue on to Trieste from Venice is on the international Cisalpino train (www.raileurope.com), which costs 14€ and takes about an hour and a half.

The major north-south train lines in northern Italy are Milan-Genoa (1 1/2 hr. and 15€ on the midspeed Intercity train) and Trento-Verona (1 hr. and 5€ on the infrequent, high-speed trains to and from Austria). Otherwise, apart from the main artery that runs from Milan to Rome and quicker lines along the coasts, north-south routes around here can be pretty slow going because they rely on the regional trains that stop at every minor hamlet in the valleys.

Visitor Information

In Milan, the main Azienda di Promozione Turistica (APT) tourist office is on the north side of Piazza del Duomo at the corner of Via Silvio Pellico (📞 02-7740-4343;www.visitamilano.it). Hours are Monday to Saturday from 8:45am to 1pm and 2 to 6pm, Sunday from 9am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm. There is also an office in Stazione Centrale (📞 02-7740-4318), open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm, and Sunday 9am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm.

In Venice, the main tourist office is Venice Pavilion/Palazzina dei Santi (📞 041-529-8710 or 041-522-5150; www.turismovenezia.it), located near the San Marco vaporetto stop. Wedged between the Giardinetti Reali, a small green park on the Grand Canal, and the famous Harry’s Bar, this tourist office is, frankly, often more interested in running its gift shop than in helping tourists; it’s open daily from 10am to 6pm. There’s also a small tourist office in Venice’s train station.

Hot Tickets -- For major events where tickets should be procured well before arriving on the spot, check out Box Office at tel. 055-210-804 or www.boxol.it. They will deliver tickets only to an Italian address, but you can buy ahead of time and pick them up at the booth when you arrive.

Tips for Women Travelers

Women feel remarkably welcome in Italy -- sometimes a bit too welcome, actually. It seems every young Italian male is out to prove himself the most irresistible lover on the planet; remember, this is the land of Romeo and Casanova, so they have a lot to live up to. And with most every Italian woman playing the especially hard-to-get Juliet, well, you see what's coming next for attractive foreign women.

It should be noted that, culturally, northern Italy feels a lot more like its Austrian and Swiss neighbors in the sense that the divide between the sexes is not quite as deep, a lot more egalitarian and perhaps less chivalrous than, say, Sicily, but naturally attractive women everywhere will, er, attract attention.

Note that much of the attention is kept to verbal flirtation and that occasional inappropriate touching deserves a slap in the face. These men want to conquer you with their charm, not their muscles. Rape is much rarer in Italy than in the United States -- but it does happen, mostly by non-Italian men, if you believe the newspapers. Use common sense: Don't walk through poorly lit city parks alone late at night, especially in Milan, Turin, and Genoa.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Environmentalism in Italy has always been an area of stark contrasts. Italians conserve fuel and energy like most Europeans do, they go to great lengths to limit air pollution, and their shopping habits of consuming locally grown vegetables and bringing a bag to the store would put a smile on just about any environmentalist's face. Meanwhile, local entities' recycling efforts are dubious (investigative journalism reveals that most of the recyclables and trash in Rome, for example, ended up in the same place anyway), and, incredibly, sewage treatment plants have only begun to spring up around Milan in the past decade or so. Previously, it simply was flushed into the rivers.

That aside, the tourism industry here leads the charge in protecting the resources of a country where visitor spending accounts for a whole lot of the nation's income. Northern Italy has taken several measures to ensure sustainable tourism. Many hotels in Milan and other northern Italian cities, as well as higher-end agriturismi in the countryside, have implemented green practices, like encouraging patrons to reuse towels rather than throw them immediately in the wash. Organic agriculture is widespread, especially on smaller farms around northern Italy that host visitors, so when you eat in a restaurant in this region, chances are that the food didn't travel very far to get to your table. (The insistence on bottled water, however, is one blemish on an otherwise good record.)

Towns and provinces push for more intercity cycling paths to connect tourist sites, and many cities, like Milan, have implemented a bike-sharing program, which, for a nominal fee, allows people to ride bicycles around town for short increments of time (usually 30 min.). You pick up a bike in one of the many racks around town and leave it at another. Milan has also managed to cut down on traffic by instituting a fee for cars to enter the city center during the day from Monday to Friday. Venice, on the other hand, has no car traffic, since the only means of transportation in the city is boat. This water traffic -- as well as a history of poor sewage systems that fed right into the canals -- has contributed to high levels of pollution in the city's water. However, Venice has recently taken measures to improve its water quality by installing more septic tanks and controlling sewage flow, and by improving standards of water treatment.

Public transportation is generally reliable, and trains provide an excellent way of getting around northern Italy. Buses can also take you around the countryside. However, there is no escaping the fact that most often a family with luggage will need a car to get around the remote areas of the northern Italian countryside.

Overall, as a nation that needs to import the great majority of its energy from far away, and with 60 million people living in relative proximity, Italians have always been a culture to live and consume at a sustainable rate and a very human scale.

You can do your part by reusing towels, taking public transportation whenever possible, discarding trash and recyclables in the appropriate white and blue bins around the region, and eating locally grown produce. And don't shy away from Italy's tap water; it's very good.

General Resources for Green Travel

The following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

In Canada, www.greenlivingonline.com offers extensive content on how to travel sustainably, including a travel and transport section, and profiles of the best green shops and services in Toronto, Vancouver, and Calgary.

In Australia, the national body which sets guidelines and standards for eco-tourism is Ecotourism Australia (www.ecotourism.org.au). The Green Directory (www.thegreendirectory.com.au), Green Pages (www.thegreenpages.com.au), and Eco Directory (www.ecodirectory.com.au) offer sustainable travel tips and directories of green businesses.

Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.

Greenhotels (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Environmentally Friendly Hotels (www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com) offers more green accommodation ratings. The Hotel Association of Canada (www.hacgreenhotels.com) has a Green Key Eco-Rating Program, which audits the environmental performance of Canadian hotels, motels, and resorts.

Sustain Lane (www.sustainlane.com) lists sustainable eating and drinking choices around the U.S.; also visit www.eatwellguide.org for tips on eating sustainably in the U.S. and Canada.

For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org). For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society (www.wdcs.org).

Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a list of questions to help you determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Tips for Single Travelers

On package vacations, single travelers are often hit with a "single supplement" to the base price. To avoid it, you can agree to room with other single travelers or find a compatible roommate before you go, from one of the many roommate-locator agencies. This is also a good way to avoid the relatively high cost of a double room-single use, as opposed to splitting a double.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

In Italy, a few of the top museums and churches have installed ramps at the entrances, and a few hotels have converted first-floor rooms into accessible units by widening the doors and bathrooms. Other than that, don't expect to find much of northern Italy -- or really any part of Italy -- easy to tackle. Builders in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance didn't have wheelchairs or mobility impairments in mind when they built narrow doorways and spiral staircases, and preservation laws keep modern Italians from being able to do much about this. Buses and trains can cause problems as well, with high, narrow doors and steep steps at entrances. There are, however, seats reserved on public transportation for travelers with disabilities.

One organization that helps travelers with disabilities in Tuscany is Accessible Italy (tel. 378-0549-9411; www.accessibleitaly.com). It provides travelers with information about accessible tourist sites and places to rent wheelchairs, as well as offering organized "Accessible Tours" around Italy. Additionally, this nonprofit organization invests its proceeds in Italy's infrastructure, to make the country more accessible.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Anyone traveling to Italy from outside the 15 Schengen agreement countries (which essentially comprises all of western Europe except the U.K. and Ireland) will need a passport to enter. You technically do not need a passport to travel between these countries, although you are required to present one to authorities upon request, as they are commonly looking for fugitives from justice or illegal immigrants. You are required to present a passport at hotel desks in Italy for the same reason. Citizens of the United States, Canada, the U.K., Australia, and New Zealand are allowed to stay in Italy for 90 days; after that period, they are required to have a residence visa.

See www.frommers.com/planning for information on how to obtain a passport.

For other information, please contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia—Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at 📞 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada—Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (📞 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland—Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (📞 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh).

For Residents of New Zealand—Contact the Passports Office at 📞 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom—Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at 📞 0870/521-0410, or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States—To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (📞 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

U.S., Canadian, U.K., Irish, Australian, and New Zealand citizens with a valid passport don't need a visa to enter Italy if they don't expect to stay more than 90 days and don't expect to work there. If, after entering Italy, you find you want to stay more than 90 days, you can apply for a permit for an extra 90 days, which, as a rule, is granted immediately. Go to the nearest questura (police headquarters) or your home country's consulate.

For more information on visas to visit or stay in Italy, go to the Foreign Ministry's English-language page at www.esteri.it/visti/index_eng.asp.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Italy -- Foreign visitors can bring along most items for personal use duty-free, including merchandise up to $800, such as fishing tackle, a pair of skis, two tennis rackets, a baby carriage, two hand cameras with 10 rolls of film or a digital camera, computer, CD player with 10 CDs, tape recorder, binoculars, personal jewelry, portable radio set (subject to a small license fee), and 400 cigarettes and a quantity of cigars or pipe tobacco not exceeding 500 grams (1.1 lb.). There are strict limits on importing alcoholic beverages. However, for alcohol bought tax-paid, limits are much more liberal than in other countries of the European Union.

If you are planning to mail items to Italy, you can mail only merchandise costing up to $200. That means that if you are having your laptop or your skis shipped to you, make sure they do not appear to be straight from the shop. Otherwise, you could face either providing a receipt that you may have discarded years ago, or paying the 20 percent Value Added Tax (IVA).

What You Can Take Home from Italy -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise, at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, the Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

There are no special medical requirements for entering Italy.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Italy is a multigenerational culture that doesn't tend to marginalize its seniors, and older people are treated with a great deal of respect and deference throughout Italy. But there are few specific programs, associations, or concessions made for them. The one exception is on admission prices for museums and sights, where those ages 60 or 65 and older will often get in at a reduced rate or even free. There are also special train passes and reductions on bus tickets and the like in various towns. As a senior in Italy, you're un anziano (una anziana if you're a woman), or "ancient one" -- consider it a term of respect and let people know you're one if you think a discount may be in order.

Tips for Families

Italy is a family-oriented society, and kids have free rein just about anywhere they go. A crying baby at a dinner table is greeted with a knowing smile rather than with a stern look. Children under a certain age almost always receive discounts, and maybe a special treat from the waiter, but the availability of such North American accoutrements as child seats for cars and dinner tables are more the exception to the rule than the norm.