Planning a trip to Northern Thailand

Getting There

Before the 1920s, when the railway's Northern Line to Chiang Mai was completed, one traveled throughout this area by either boat or elephant. So when your train ride gets boring or the flight is crowded, remember that not so long ago the trip here from Bangkok took 4 to 6 weeks.

By Plane -- Thai Airways, Bangkok Airways, and budget carriers  Nok Air, and Air Asia all fly from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. From Chiang Mai, flights to Chiang Rai, Mae Hong Son, and Pai are serviced by SGA Airlines and Nok Air, while Lampang and Nan can be reached from Bangkok by PB Air. There are also connections between Chiang Mai and Singapore (Silk Air), Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia (Air Asia), Luang Prabang in Laos (Lao Airlines), Seoul in South Korea (Korean Airlines), and Taipei in Taiwan (China Airlines).

By Train -- Express and rapid trains leave Bangkok daily for Chiang Mai, the northern terminus. Sleeper cars are available on certain trains and are highly recommended for the 13-hour overnight trip (reserve as early as possible).

By Bus -- There are dozens of daily and nightly air-conditioned VIP buses to Chiang Mai and other northern cities, as well as cheaper, less comfortable, buses from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal. Journey time is much shorter than by train (8-10 hr.) but, depending on your driver, it can be a nerve-racking experience.

Getting Around

By Taxi -- Chiang Mai has metered taxis but taxi drivers are generally unwilling to use the meter, so rates are commonly fixed. Trips in town are generally less than 160B. While Uber left Southeast Asia in 2018, the popular ride-hailing app GrabTaxi performs the same function (www.grab.com; available in the iTunes store and Google Play). You can take taxis from Chiang Mai to neighboring cities, but it will be pricey.

By Public Bus -- There's frequent, inexpensive bus service between Chiang Mai and other northern cities. You'll also find songtaews (shared pickup trucks) fitted with long bench seats (also known locally as seelor) along the streets of Chiang Mai as well as all the major roads throughout the north. They have no fixed schedule, stopping points, or price; just flag them down and ask how much they are.

By Car -- Renting your own car offers you freedom and the chance to see some beautiful countryside at your own pace; main roads are well-paved with frequent petrol stations. It must be stressed, however, that upcountry driving regulations do not really exist, and in some seasons -- especially during festivals -- drunk driving, passing on blind bends, or overtaking in the lane reserved solely for uphill drivers is especially common. Both Budget Car Rental and Avis have branches in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. While these larger rental companies have better insurance policies, they will cost more. Patronizing local companies in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai will save you money, but cost you dearly if you end up in an accident or hospitalized. If you're driving out to mountain destinations, select the best-maintained car on the lot (older cars are only for in-town driving). Consider hiring a car and driver from a smaller private company for around 2,000B per day, depending on the distance traveled and fuel used.

By Motorcycle -- Motorcycle touring in northern Thailand is another option and best considered in the dry season (Nov-May). For up-to-date info on the best routes to follow, check out the Golden Triangle Rider website (www.gt-rider.com). Inexperienced riders should stick to day trips, and all should arm themselves with up-to-date information about the weather. Hot, precipitous roads doused in monsoon showers make for an early (and easy) death. Stay left, expect the unexpected (such as head-on traffic, putrid exhaust fumes from farmers' trucks, and total abandonment of road rules), and keep your speed steady. No one in his or her right mind would dream of riding here without full medical insurance. In Chiang Mai, Tony’s Big Bikes (www.chiangmai-motorcycle-rental.com; tel; 083865-0935) is the place to go for well-maintained motorcycle rentals, lessons, repairs, questions about where to ride or to join a guided tour.

By Scooter -- Scooter rental places are common in the region with hires averaging an affordable 250B per day. If this entry-level two-wheeled option is appealing, get at least a 150cc motorbike, so it has the pep to get up the hills.

Calendar of Events

Many of these annual events are based on the lunar calendar. Contact the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; www.tourismthailand.org) for exact dates.

January

Umbrella Festival, Bo Sang. Held in a village of umbrella craftspeople and painters, about 9km (5 2/3 miles) east of Chiang Mai, the Umbrella Festival features handicraft competitions, an elephant show, and a local parade. Third weekend of January.

February

Flower Festival, Chiang Mai. Celebrates the city's undisputed accolade as the "Rose of the North," with a parade, concerts, flower displays, and competitions. A food fair and a beauty contest take place at Buak Hat Park, on the first weekend in February.

King Mengrai Festival, Chiang Rai. Known for its special hill-tribe cultural displays and a fine handicrafts market. Early February.

Sakura Blooms Flower Fair, Doi Mae Salong. Sakura (Japanese cherry trees) were imported to this hilly village 50 years ago by fleeing members of China's Nationalist, or Kuomintang, party (KMT). Their abundant blossoms bring numerous sightseers. Early to mid-February.

March

Poy Sang Long. A traditional Shan ceremony honoring Buddhist novices -- particularly celebrated in the northwestern town of Mae Hong Son, but can also be seen in Chiang Mai. Late March or early April.

April

Songkran (Water) Festival. Thai New Year is celebrated at home and in more formal ceremonies at wats (temples). Presents and merit-making acts are offered, and water is "splashed" over Buddha figures, monks, elders, and tourists to encourage the beginning of the rains and to wish good fortune. Those who don't want a good soaking should avoid the streets. The festival is celebrated in all Northern provinces and throughout the country, but Chiang Mai's celebration is notorious for being the longest (up to 10 days) and the rowdiest. The climax comes April 12 to April 14, days that are official holidays.

May

Visakha Bucha. Honors the birth, enlightenment, and death of the Lord Buddha. Celebrated nationwide, it is a particularly dramatic event in Chiang Mai, where residents walk up Mount (Doi) Suthep in homage. On the first full moon day in May.

Harvest Festival, Kho Loi Park, Chiang Rai. This festival honors the harvest of litchis (lychees), a small, fragrant fruit encased in bumpy red skin. There is a parade, a litchi competition and display, a beauty contest to find Miss Chiang Rai Litchi Nut, and lots of great food. Mid-May.

Mango Fair, Chiang Mai. This fair honors mangoes, a favorite local crop. Second weekend in May.

August

Longan (lamyai) Fair, Lamphun. Celebrates North Thailand's most dearly loved fruit and one of the country's largest foreign-exchange earners. There is even a Miss Longan competition. First or second weekend of August.

October

Lanna Boat Races. Each October, Nan Province holds 2 days of boat racing, with wildly decorated, long, low-slung crafts zipping down the Nan River. The Lanna Boat Races are run 7 days after the end of the Buddhist Rains' Retreat, which generally marks the beginning of the dry season. In mid- to late October.

November

Loy Krathong. Occurs nationwide on the full moon in the 12th lunar month. Small krathongs (banana-leaf floats bearing candles, incense, and garlands) are sent downriver to carry away the previous year's sins. In Chiang Mai, the waterborne offerings are floated on the Ping River. In the city, enormous 1m-tall (3 1/4-ft.) paper lanterns (khom loy) are released in the night sky, and there's a parade of women in traditional costumes. Late October to mid-November.

December

Day of Roses, Chiang Mai. Exhibitions and cultural performances are held in Buak Hat Park. First weekend in December.

When to Go

The Climate -- Northern Thailand has three distinct seasons. The hot season (Mar-May) is dry, with temperatures up to 97°F (36°C). At this time of year, there is little difference between the north and other regions. The rainy season (June-Oct) is cooler, with the heaviest daily rainfall in September (predictably heavy daily afternoon downpours). While trekking and outdoor activities are still possible, mud and leeches should be taken into consideration. The cool season (Nov-Feb) is brisk and invigorating, with daytime temperatures as low as 50°F (10°C) in Chiang Mai town, and 41°F (5°C) in the hills. Bring a sweater and some warm socks, and a jacket if you plan to head for the hills. November to February is the best time for trekking, with December and January drawing a peak of visitors. In October and November, after the rains, the forests are lush, rivers swell, and waterfalls are more splendid than usual.

Festivals -- Northern Thailand celebrates many festivals -- even the nationwide ones -- in different ways than the rest of the country. Many Thais travel to participate in these festivals, and advance booking in hotels is a must.