Planning a trip to Norway

Getting Around

By Plane

The best way to get around Norway is to take advantage of air passes that apply to the whole region. If you're traveling extensively, special European passes are available.

SAS's "Visit Scandinavia" Fare -- The vast distances encourage air travel between Norway's far-flung points. One of the most worthwhile promotions is SAS's Visit Scandinavia Pass. Available only to travelers who fly SAS across the Atlantic, it includes up to six coupons, each of which is valid for any SAS flight within or between Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. Each coupon costs $60, $80, or $100, depending on the route. The pass is especially valuable if you plan to travel to the far northern frontiers of Sweden or Norway; in that case, the savings over the price of a regular economy-class ticket can be substantial. For information on buying the pass, call SAS (tel. 800/221-2350; www.flysas.com).

Within Norway -- Norway has excellent domestic air service. In addition to SAS, an independent airway, Wideroe Flyveselskap, provides quick and convenient ways to get around a large country with many hard-to-reach areas. For more information, call tel. 47-75-11-11-11 or visit www.wideroe.no.

By Train

Norway's network of electric and diesel-electric trains runs as far as Bodø, 100km (62 miles) north of the Arctic Circle. (Beyond that, visitors must take a coastal steamer, plane, or bus to Tromsø and the North Cape.) Upgraded express trains (the fastest in the country) crisscross the mountainous terrain between Oslo, Stavanger, Bergen, and Trondheim. For information and reservations, contact the Norwegian State Railways (NSB; tel. 81-50-08-88; www.nsb.no).

The most popular and most scenic run covers the 483km (299 miles) between Oslo and Bergen. Visitors with limited time often choose this route for its fabled mountains, gorges, white-water rivers, and fjords. The trains make frequent stops for passengers to enjoy breathtaking views.

Second-class travel on Norwegian trains is recommended. In fact, second class in Norway is as good as or better than first-class travel anywhere else in Europe, with reclining seats and lots of unexpected comforts. Of course, first-class train travel in Norway is better, though not necessarily that much better, than second class. For those who want the added comforts and can afford it, first class is the way to go.

The one-way second-class fare from Oslo to Bergen is NOK739 ($148/£74), plus a mandatory seat reservation of NOK40 ($8/£4). Another popular run, from Oslo to Trondheim, costs NOK813 ($163/£81) one-way in second class. First class from Oslo to Bergen costs NOK814 ($163/£81), and from Oslo to Trondheim NOK888 ($178/£89).

One of the country's obviously scenic trips, from Bergen to Bodø, is not possible by train because of the terrain. Trains to Bodø leave from Oslo. Express trains are called Expresstog, and you have to read the fine print of a railway schedule to figure out whether an Expresstog is much faster than a conventional train.

On express and other major trains, you must reserve seats at the train's starting station. Sleepers are priced according to the number of berths in each compartment. Children 4 to 15 years of age and seniors are granted reduced fares.

There are special compartments for persons with disabilities on most medium- and long-distance trains. People in wheelchairs and others with physical disabilities, and their companions, may use the compartments. Some long-distance trains offer special playrooms ("Kiddie-Wagons") for children, complete with toys, games, and books.

Eurail Norway Pass -- A restricted rail pass applicable only to the state railway lines, the Eurail Norway Pass is available for 3 to 8 days of unlimited rail travel in 1 month. It's suitable for anyone who wants to cover the long distances that separate Norwegian cities. The pass is available in North America through Rail Europe (tel. 800/848-7245; www.raileurope.com). The cost is $299 for adults in second class for any 3 days in 1 month. For 4 days of travel in 1 month, the second-class cost is $325. For 5 days of travel in 1 month, the second-class cost is $359. For 6 days of travel in 1 month, the second-class cost is $405. For 8 days of travel in 1 month, second class is $455. Children 4 to 15 years of age pay half the adult fare; and those under 4 ride free. Discount passes are available for youth 16 to 25 (Norway Youth Pass) and for travelers over 60 (Norway Senior Pass).

Minirpis Tickets -- NSB's regional trains offer unlimited travel for NOK199 to NOK299 ($40-$60/£20-£30). The offer is valid for a limited number of seats. You can purchase the ticket by logging on to www.nsb.no. Tickets are often sold out, so make reservations as soon as possible. At this price, tickets are not refundable and a change of reservation is not possible. A supplement of NOK75 ($15/£7.50) will grant you access to the NSB "Komfort Class" section.

By Bus

Where the train or coastal steamer stops, passengers can usually continue on a scenic bus ride. Norway's bus system is excellent, linking remote villages along the fjords. Numerous all-inclusive motor-coach tours, often combined with steamer travel, leave from Bergen and Oslo in the summer. The train ends in Bodø; from there you can get a bus to Fauske (63km/39 miles east). From Fauske, the Polar Express bus spans the entire distance along the Arctic Highway, through Finnmark (Lapland) to Kirkenes, near the Russian border, and back. The segment from Alta to Kirkenes is open only from June to October, but there's year-round service from Fauske to Alta. Passengers are guaranteed hotel accommodations along the way.

Buses have air-conditioning, toilets, adjustable seats, reading lights, and a telephone. Reservations are not accepted on most buses, and payment is made to the driver onboard. Fares depend on the distance traveled. Children under 4 travel free, and children 4 to 16 and seniors pay half-price. For the Oslo-Sweden-Hammerfest "Express 2000," a 30-hour trip, reservations must be made in advance.

For more information about bus travel in Norway, contact Norway Buss Ekspress AS, Karl Johans Gate (tel. 81-54-44-44; www.nor-way.no) in Oslo, or Passage Tours of Scandinavia (tel. 800/548-5960 in the U.S.; www.passagetours.com).

By Car & Ferry

Dazzling scenery awaits you at nearly every turn if you drive through Norway. Some roads are less than perfect (dirt or gravel is frequent), but all are passable (you'll even be able to drive to the North Cape). Most mountain roads are open by May 1; the so-called motoring season lasts from mid-May to the end of September. In western Norway, hairpin curves are common, but if you're willing to settle for doing less than 240km (149 miles) a day, you needn't worry. The easiest and most convenient touring territory is in and around Oslo and south to Stavanger.

Bringing a car into Norway is relatively uncomplicated. If you own the car you're driving, you must present your national driver's license, car registration, and proof that the car is insured. (This proof usually takes the form of a document known as a "Green Card," which Customs agents will refer to specifically.) If you've rented a car in another country and want to drive it into Norway, be sure to verify at the time of rental that the registration and insurance documents are in order -- they probably will be. Regardless of whether you own or rent the car you're about to drive into Norway, don't assume that your private North American insurance policy will automatically apply. Chances are good that it will, but in the event of an accident, you may have to cope with a burdensome amount of paperwork.

If you're driving through any of Norway's coastal areas, you'll probably have to traverse one or many of the country's famous fjords. Although more and more bridges are being built, Norway's network of privately run ferries is essential for transporting cars across hundreds of fjords and estuaries. Motorists should ask the tourist bureau for the free map Norway by Car and a timetable outlining the country's dozens of car-ferry services. The cost for cars and passengers is low.

Rentals -- Avis, Budget, and Hertz offer well-serviced, well-maintained fleets of rental cars in Norway. Prices and terms tend to be more favorable for those who reserve vehicles from home before their departure and who present evidence of membership in such organizations as AA (Automobile Association), AAA (American Automobile Association), or AARP. The major competitors' prices tend to be roughly equivalent, except for promotional deals scheduled from time to time.

The prices quoted here include the 23% government tax. The major U.S.-based car rental firms are represented in Norway, including Budget (tel. 800/527-0700 in the U.S. and Canada; www.budget.com), Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001 in the U.S.; www.hertz.com), and Avis (tel. 800/331-1212 in the U.S.; www.avis.com). Despite pressure from the telephone sales representative, it pays to ask questions and shop around before you commit to a prepaid reservation. Each company maintains an office at the Oslo airport, in the center of Oslo, and at airports and city centers elsewhere around the country.

Note: Remember that prices and the relative merits of each company can and will change during the lifetime of this edition, depending on promotions and other factors.

An auto supplier that might not automatically come to mind is Kemwel (tel. 800/678-0678; www.kemwel.com), an auto-rental broker that monitors the availability of rental cars in markets across Europe, including Norway. Originally established in 1908 and now operating in close conjunction with its affiliated company, Auto Europe (tel. 800/223-5555; www.autoeurope.com), it offers convenient and prepaid access to thousands of cars, from a variety of reputable car-rental outfits throughout Europe; sometimes you'll find more favorable rates than those you might have gotten by contacting those companies directly.

Car rentals are reserved and prepaid, in dollars or pounds, prior to your departure for Europe, thereby avoiding the confusion about unfavorable currency conversions and government tax add-ons that you might have discovered after your return home. You're given the option at the time of your booking of whether you want to include collision-damage and other forms of insurance. Most car rentals can be picked up either at the airport or in the downtown offices of cities throughout Norway, and there's usually no penalty for one-way rentals.

Driving Rules -- Driving is on the right, and the law requires that you keep your headlights on at all times. Every passenger, including infants, must wear seat belts. Children 5 years of age and under must ride in the back. A driver must yield to cars approaching from the right. On most major highways, the maximum speed limit is 90kmph (55 mph). On secondary routes, the speed limit ranges from 70kmph (43 mph) to 80kmph (50 mph). Do not drink and drive. Norway has perhaps the strictest laws in Europe about drinking and driving, and there are roadside checks. Speeding is also severely punished, and most highways are monitored by radar and cameras.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- There are plenty of gas stations in Norway, and unleaded gasoline (blyfri bensin) and diesel fuel are sold from self-service pumps. Those pumps labeled kort are open day and night. Most of them accept regular bank credit cards or else oil company credit cards. In the countryside of Norway, gas stations' hours of operation vary widely.

Winter Motoring in Norway -- If you're going to drive in Norway in winter, you must be prepared for the conditions. Most of the main roads are kept open by snowplows year-round, but the road surface will often be hard-packed snow and ice. Journey times will be much longer than in summer, 50km (31 miles) per hour is a typical average, and in bad weather there can be long delays over mountain passes. Most Norwegians use winter tires with metal studs, which come with all rental cars. Temperatures as low as 25°F (-3°C) are common. A good ice scraper and snow brush are essential, as is a diesel engine.

Getting There

By Plane

All transatlantic flights from North America land at Oslo's Fornebu Airport. SAS (tel. 800/221-2350 in the U.S.; www.flysas.com) flies nonstop daily from Newark to Oslo. The trip takes about 7 1/2 hours. Most other SAS flights from North America go through Copenhagen. Flying time from Chicago is 11 hours; from Seattle, it's 12 hours, not including the layover in Copenhagen. From New York, Continental (tel. 800/525-0280; www.continental.com) flies 4 days a week in the summer (Thurs-Sun) to Oslo direct. In winter there are New York-to-Oslo flights on Saturday, Sunday, and Thursday.

If you fly to Norway on another airline, you'll be routed through a gateway city in Europe and will sometimes continue on a different airline. British Airways (tel. 800/AIRWAYS in the U.S.; www.britishairways.com), for example, has dozens of daily flights from many North American cities to London, where you can continue to Oslo. Icelandair (tel. 800/223-5500 in the U.S.; www.icelandair.com) can be an excellent choice, with connections through Reykjavik. KLM (tel. 800/225-2525 in the U.S.; www.klm.com) serves Oslo through Amsterdam.

For passengers from the U.K., British Airways (tel. 0844/493-0787 in the U.K.) operates at least four daily nonstops to Oslo from London. SAS (tel. 0870/6072-7727 in the U.K.) runs four daily flights from Heathrow to Oslo. Flying time from London to Oslo on any airline is around 2 hours.

Summer (generally June-Sept) is the peak season and the most expensive. Norway's off season is in winter (about Nov 1-Mar 21). Shoulder season is in both spring and fall. In any season, midweek fares (Mon-Thurs) are lowest.

By Car

If you're driving from the Continent, you must go through Sweden. From Copenhagen, take the E47/55 express highway north to Helsingør and catch the car ferry to Helsingborg, Sweden. From there, the E6 runs to Oslo. From Stockholm, drive across Sweden on E18 to Oslo.

By Train

Copenhagen is the main rail hub for service between Scandinavia and the rest of Europe. There are three daily trains from Copenhagen to Oslo. All connect with the Danish ferries operating to Norway through either Helsingør or Hirtshals.

Most rail traffic from Sweden into Norway follows the main corridors between Stockholm and Oslo and between Gothenburg and Oslo.

If you plan to travel a great deal on Norwegian railroads, it's worth securing a copy of the Thomas Cook European Timetable of European Passenger Railroads. It's available online at www.thomascooktimetables.com.

Thousands of trains run from Britain to the Continent, and at least some of them go directly across or under the Channel, through France or Belgium and Germany into Denmark, where connections can be made to Norway. For example, a train leaves London's Victoria Station daily at 9am and arrives in Copenhagen the next day at 8:25am. Another train leaves London's Victoria Station at 8:45pm and arrives in Copenhagen the next day at 8:20pm. Both go through Dover-Ostende, or with a connection at Brussels. Once you're in Copenhagen, you can make rail connections to Oslo. Because of the time and distances involved, many passengers rent a couchette (sleeping berth). Designed like padded benches stacked bunk-style, they're usually clustered six to a compartment.

Rail Passes for North American Travelers
Eurailpass -- The Eurailpass permits unlimited first-class rail travel in any country in western Europe except the British Isles (good in Ireland). Passes are available for purchase online (www.eurail.com) and at various offices/agents around the world. Travel agents and railway agents in such cities as New York, Montreal, and Los Angeles sell Eurailpasses. You can purchase them at the North American offices of CIT Travel Service, the French National Railroads, the German Federal Railroads, and the Swiss Federal Railways. It is strongly recommended that you purchase passes before you leave home as not all passes are available in Europe; also, passes purchased in Europe will cost about 20% more. Numerous options are available for travel in France.

The Eurail Global Pass allows you unlimited travel in 20 Eurail-affiliated countries. You can travel on any of the days within the validity period which is available for 15 days, 21 days, 1 month, 2 months, 3 months, and some other possibilities as well. Prices for first-class adult travel are $745 for 15 days; $965 for 21 days; $1,199 for 1 month; $1,695 for 2 months; and $2,089 for 3 months. Children 4 to 11 pay half-fare; those 3 and under travel for free.

A Eurail Global Pass Saver, also valid for first-class travel in 20 countries, offers a special deal for two or more people traveling together. This pass costs $629 for 15 days; $819 for 21 days; $1,019 for 1 month; $1,439 for 2 months; and $1,785 for 3 months.

A Eurail Global Youth Pass for those 12 to 25 allows second-class travel in 18 countries. This pass costs $485 for 15 days; $625 for 21 days; $779 for 1 month; $1,099 for 2 months; and $1,359 for 3 months.

The Eurail Select Pass offers unlimited travel on the national rail networks of any three, four, or five bordering countries out of the 22 Eurail nations linked by train or ship. Two or more passengers can travel together for big discounts, getting 5, 6, 8, 10, or 15 days of rail travel within any 2-month period on the national rail networks of any three, four, or five adjoining Eurail countries linked by train or ship. A sample fare: For 5 days in 2 months you pay $469 for three countries. Eurail Select Pass Youth for travelers under 26 allows second-class travel within the same guidelines as Eurail Selectpass, with fees starting at $305. Eurail Select Pass Saver offers discounts for two or more people traveling together -- first-class travel within the same guidelines as Eurail Selectpass -- with fees starting at $399.

Where to Buy Rail Passes -- Travel agents in all towns and railway agents in major North American cities sell all these tickets, but the biggest supplier is Rail Europe (tel. 877/272-RAIL; www.raileurope.com), which can also give you informational brochures.

Many different rail passes are available in the United Kingdom for travel in Britain and continental Europe. Stop in at the International Rail Centre, Victoria Station, London SWIV 1JY (tel. 0870/5848-848 in the U.K.). Some of the most popular passes, including Inter-Rail and Euro Youth, are offered only to travelers under 26 years of age; these allow unlimited second-class travel through most European countries.

Scanrail Pass -- If your visit to Europe will be primarily in Scandinavia, the Scanrail pass may be better and cheaper than the Eurailpass. This pass allows its owner a designated number of days of free rail travel within a larger time block. (Presumably, this allows for days devoted to sightseeing scattered among days of rail transfers between cities or sites of interest.) You can choose a total of any 5 days of unlimited rail travel during a 15-day period, 10 days of rail travel within a 1-month period, or 1 month of unlimited rail travel. The pass, which is valid on all lines of the state railways of Denmark, Finland, Norway, and Sweden, offers discounts or free travel on some (but not all) of the region's ferry lines as well. The pass can be purchased only in North America. It's available from any office of RailEurope (tel. 800/848-7245) or ScanAm World Tours, 108 N. Main St., Cranbury, NJ 08512 (tel. 800/545-2204; www.scandinaviantravel.com).

Depending on whether you choose first- or second-class rail transport, 5 days in 10 days costs $249 to $329, 8 days out of 2 months costs $180 to $360, 10 days out of 22 days costs $359 to $489, and 21 consecutive days of unlimited travel costs $469 to $629. Seniors get an 11% discount, and students receive a 30% discount.

Rail Passes for British Travelers
If you plan to do a lot of exploring, you may prefer one of the three rail passes designed for unlimited train travel within a designated region during a predetermined number of days. These passes are sold in Britain and several other European countries.

An InterRail Pass is available to passengers of any nationality, with some restrictions -- they must be under age 26 and able to prove residency in a European or North African country (Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia) for at least 6 months before buying the pass. It allows unlimited travel through Europe, except Albania and the republics of the former Soviet Union. Prices are complicated and vary depending on the countries you want to include. For pricing purposes, Europe is divided into eight zones; the cost depends on the number of zones you include. For ages 25 and under, the most expensive option (£399) allows 1 month of unlimited travel in all eight zones and is known to the staff as a "global." The least expensive option (£159) allows 5 days of travel within 10 days.

Passengers age 26 and older can buy an InterRail 26-Plus Pass. The cost varies from £359 to £489 for 16 days to £599 to £809 for 1 month. Passengers must meet the same residency requirements that apply to the InterRail Pass.

For information on buying individual rail tickets or any of the just-mentioned passes, contact National Rail Inquiries, Victoria Station, London (tel. 08705/848-848). Tickets and passes also are available at any of the larger railway stations, as well as selected travel agencies throughout Britain and the rest of Europe.

By Ship & Ferry

From Denmark -- The trip from Frederikshavn at the northern port of Jutland in Denmark to Oslo takes 11 hours. Call Stena Line (tel. 96-20-02-00; www.stenaline.com) for general reservations.

From Sweden -- From Strømstad, Sweden, in the summer the daily crossing to Sandefjord, Norway, takes 2 1/2 hours. Bookings can be made through Color Line, Tollbugata 5, N-3210 Sandefjord (tel. 47-22-94-42-00; www.colorline.com).

From England -- SeaEurope Holidays, 6801 Lake Worth Rd., Ste. 107, Lake Worth, Florida 33467 (tel. 800/533-3755; www.seaeurope.com), is a U.S.-based company that will arrange a variety of seagoing options for you, all before you land in mainland Europe. For example, if you'd like to sail from Newcastle in England to Bergen in Norway, these trips can be arranged.

By Cruise Ship

Norway's fjords and mountain vistas are among the most spectacular panoramas in the world. Many ship owners and cruise lines offer excursions along the Norwegian coast.

One of the most prominent lines is Cunard (tel. 800/7CUNARD in the U.S. and Canada; www.cunard.com, or tel. 0845-071-0300; www.cunard.co.uk in the U.K.).

Ten-day cruises are offered on the new Cunard flagship, Queen Mary 2 (from $3,422/£1,711 in summer). This vessel re-creates the grandeur of those old queen liners, Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth, but on a larger, more modern scale. The 150,000-ton ship carries a total of 2,620 passengers.

Departing from Southampton, England, the ship calls at Oslo and Bergen and cruises the North Sea. En route it also stops at the most frequently visited fjords, including the Eidfjord. Prices for the 6-day cruise (starting at $1,294/£647 in summer) include round-trip airfare to London on British Airways from 79 gateway cities throughout the world.

In its tour of Baltic capitals, Norwegian Cruise Line (tel. 866/234-0292; www.ncl.com) stops at Helsinki, Stockholm, and Copenhagen, but, ironically, doesn't go as far as Norway itself.

Money

The Norwegian currency is the krone (plural: kroner), written as NOK. There are 100 øre in 1 krone. Bank notes are issued in denominations of 50, 100, 200, 500, and 1,000 kroner. Coins are issued in denominations of 50 øre, 1 krone, and 5, 10, and 20 kroner.

At press time, faced with some of the greatest fiscal instability since before World War II, U.S. and Norwegian currency experts held widely varying opinions about the 2-year outlook for the interrelated values of the kroner, the dollar, the pound, and the euro. With that in mind, we compiled the following chart as a very rough guide for how the Norwegian kroner might stack up against other international currencies.

For American readers: At the time of this writing, US$1 = approximately 5NOK (or stated differently, 1NOK = approximately 20¢). This was the rate of exchange used to calculate the simplified dollar values provided throughout this edition.

For British readers: At this writing, £1 = approximately 10NOK (or 1NOK = approximately 10p). This was the rate of exchange used to calculate the pound-designated values within the chart below and throughout this edition.

Regarding the Euro: At the time of this writing, 1€ = 10NOK (or stated differently, 1NOK = 10 eurocents).

These monetary relationships can and probably will change during the lifetime of this edition. For more on exact ratios between these and other currencies, check an up-to-date source at the time of your arrival in Norway.

Currency Exchange

Banks offer the best rates for performing currency exchanges. Most hotels will exchange money but usually at an unfavorable rate.

Many hotels in Norway simply do not accept a dollar- or pound-denominated personal check; those that do will certainly charge for making the conversion. In some cases, a hotel may accept countersigned traveler's checks or a credit or charge card.

If you're making a deposit on a hotel reservation, it's cheaper and easier to pay with a check drawn from a Norwegian bank. This can be arranged by a large commercial bank or by a specialist such as Ruesch International, 700 11th St. NW, Fourth Floor, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 800/424-2923 or 202/408-1200; www.ruesch.com), which performs a wide variety of conversion-related tasks, usually for about $15 per transaction.

If you need a check payable in a Norwegian currency, call Ruesch's toll-free number, describe what you need, and write down the transaction number. Mail your dollar-denominated personal check (payable to Ruesch International) to the Washington, D.C., office. When it's received, the company will mail you a check denominated in the requested currency for the specified amount, minus the $3 charge. The company can also help you with wire transfers, as well as converting VAT (value-added tax) refund checks. Information is mailed upon request.

In England, contact Ruesch International Ltd., Lower Cookham Road, Maidenhead Berkshire SL6 8XY (tel. 0845/880-0400).

ATMs

PLUS, Cirrus, and other networks connecting automated teller machines (ATMs) operate throughout Norway. The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM. The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, and then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home, and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones. On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks' ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

You can also get cash advances on your credit card at an ATM. Keep in mind that credit card companies try to protect themselves from theft by limiting the funds cardholders can withdraw outside their home country, so call your credit card company before you leave home. And keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time.

Important note: Make sure that the PINs on your bank cards and credit cards will work in Norway. You'll need a four-digit code (six digits won't work); if you have a six-digit code, you'll have to go into your bank and get a new PIN for your trip. If you're unsure about this, contact Cirrus or PLUS. Be sure to check the daily withdrawal limit at the same time.

Emergency Cash -- the Fastest Way -- If you need emergency cash over the weekend, when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you from Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com). You must present valid ID to pick up the cash at the Western Union office. However, in most countries you can pick up a money transfer even if you don't have valid identification, as long as you can answer a test question provided by the sender. Be sure to let the sender know in advance that you don't have ID. If you need to use a test question instead of ID, the sender must take cash to his or her local Western Union office rather than transfer the money over the phone or online.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are a safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. If you've forgotten yours, or didn't even know you had one, call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother's maiden name or some other personal information. Keep in mind that when you use your credit card abroad, most banks assess a 2% fee above the 1% fee charged by Visa, MasterCard, or American Express for currency conversion on credit charges. But credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you factor in such things as exorbitant ATM fees and higher traveler's check exchange rates (and service fees).

Traveler's Checks

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/528-4800 or 800/221-7282 for cardholders). At the latter number, which accepts collect calls, services are offered in several foreign languages, and Amex gold and platinum cardholders may be exempted from the 1% fee. Other popular traveler's check providers include Visa (tel. 800/732-1322; AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee for checks up to $1,500 at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378) and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, which are useful if you're traveling to one country, or to the Euro zone; they're accepted at locations where dollar checks may not be.

If you carry traveler's checks, keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Regions in Brief

Western Norway -- Western Norway is fabled for its fjords, saltwater arms of the sea that stretch inland. Many date from the end of the last ice age. Some fjords cut into mountain ranges as high as 1,006m (3,300 ft.). The longest fjord in western Norway is the Sognefjord, north of Bergen, which penetrates 177km (110 miles) inland. Other major fjords in the district are the Nordfjord, Geirangerfjord, and Hardangerfjord. The capital of the fjord district is Bergen, the largest city on the west coast. Lofthus, a collection of farms extending along the slopes of Sørfjorden, offers panoramic views of the fjord and the Folgefonn Glacier. Hiking is the primary activity in this region. The area north of the Hardangerfjord is a haven for hikers. Here you'll find Hardangervidda National Park, on Europe's largest high-mountain plateau, home to Norway's largest herd of wild reindeer. The town of Voss, birthplace of the American football great Knute Rockne, is surrounded by glaciers, fjords, rivers, and lakes.

Central Norway -- Fjords are also common in central Norway; the two largest are the Trondheimsfjord and Narnsfjord. It's not unusual for roads to pass waterfalls that cascade straight down into fjords. Many thick forests and snowcapped peaks fill central Norway. The town of Geilo, halfway between Bergen and Oslo, is one of Norway's most popular ski resorts. It boasts more than 129km (80 miles) of cross-country trails. Trondheim, central Norway's largest city, is home to Nidaros Domen, the 11th-century cathedral that was once the burial place for kings. Røros is a well-preserved 18th-century mining town. The medieval city of Molde, Norway's capital during World War II, plays host to one of Europe's largest jazz festivals. Geiranger, site of the Seven Sisters waterfall, is one of Norway's most popular resorts.

Eastern Norway -- On the border with Sweden, eastern Norway is characterized by clear blue lakes, rolling hills, and green valleys. In some ways, it's the most traditional part of the country. Because of its many fertile valleys, it was one of the earliest areas to be settled. Some of the biggest valleys are Valdres, Østerdal, Hallingdall, Numedal, and Gudbrandsdalen. Campers and hikers enjoy the great forests of the Hedmark region, site of Norway's longest river, the Glomma (Gløma), which runs about 580km (360 miles). The area has many ski resorts, notably Lillehammer, site of the 1994 Winter Olympics. Norway's most visited destination is the capital, Oslo, which rises from the shores of the Oslofjord. The city of Fredrikstad, at the mouth of the Glomma, was once the marketplace for goods entering the country. Its 17th-century Kongsten Fort was designed to defend Norway from Sweden. Tønsberg, Norway's oldest town, dates to the 9th century. This area is also the site of the Peer Gynt Road, of Ibsen fame, and the mountainous region is home to numerous ski resorts.

Southern Norway -- Southern Norway is sometimes referred to as "the Riviera" because of its unspoiled and uncrowded -- but chilly -- beaches. It's also a favorite port of call for the yachting crowd. Stavanger, the oil capital of Norway, is the largest southern city and is also quite popular. There's much to explore in this Telemark region, which is filled with lakes and canals popular for summer canoeing and boating. Skien, birthplace of the playwright Henrik Ibsen (1828-1906), is primarily an industrial town. In Skien, you can board a lake steamer to travel through a series of canals. The southern part of Kristiansand links Norway with continental Europe. Close by is 10km (6 1/4-mile) Hamresanden Beach, one of the longest uninterrupted beaches in Europe. More fjords lie along the western half of the district, notably the Lysefjord, Sandefjord, and Vindefjord.

Northern Norway -- The "Land of the Midnight Sun" is a region of craggy cliffs that descend to the sea and of deep, fertile valleys along the deserted moors. It has islands with few, if any, inhabitants, where life has remained relatively unchanged for generations. The capital of the Nordland region is Bodø, which lies just north of the Arctic Circle; it's a base for Arctic fishing trips and visits to the wild Glomfjord. Norway's second-largest glacier, Svartisen, is also in this region, as is the city of Narvik, a major Arctic port and the gateway to the Lofoten Islands. The islands, which have many fishing villages, make up one of the most beautiful areas of Norway. Visitors come here from all over the world for sport fishing and bird-watching.

Troms -- Troms is the name of the province, and Tromsø, from which polar explorations are launched, is its capital. Troms contains one of Norway's most impressive mountain ranges, the Lyngs Alps, which attract winter skiers and summer hikers. Alta, site of the Altafjord, is reputed to have the best salmon-fishing waters in the world.

Finnmark -- At the top of Norway is the Finnmark region, home of the Sami. Settlements here include Kautokeino (the Sami town) and Hammerfest, the world's northernmost town. Most tourists come to Finnmark to see the North Cape, Europe's northernmost point and an ideal midnight-sun viewing spot. Vardø is the only Norwegian mainland town in the Arctic climate zone. In the 17th century, Vardø was the site of more than 80 witch burnings. The town of Kirkenes lies 274km (170 miles) north of the Arctic Circle, close to the Russian border.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior when you first make your travel reservations. All major airlines and many Norwegian hotels offer discounts for seniors. In Norway, people over age 67 are entitled to 50% off the price of first- and second-class train tickets. Ask for the discount at the ticket office.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those ages 55 and over.

INTRAV (tel. 800/680-2858; www.tourvacationstogo.com) is a high-end tour operator that caters to the mature, discerning traveler, not specifically seniors, with trips around the world that include guided safaris, polar expeditions, private jet adventures, small boat cruises down jungle rivers, and trips to the Norwegian fjords.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com) and the bestselling paperback Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 2009-2010, 18th Edition (McGraw-Hill), by Joan Rattner Heilman.

Tips for Families

The family vacation is a rite of passage for many households, one that in a split second can devolve into a National Lampoon farce. But as any veteran family vacationer will assure you, a family trip can be among the most pleasurable and rewarding times of your life.

Most Norwegian hoteliers will let children 12 and under stay in a room with their parents for free; others will not. Sometimes this requires a little negotiation at the reception desk.

Norwegians like kids but don't offer a lot of special amenities for them. For example, a kiddies' menu in a restaurant is a rarity. However, you can order a half portion, and most waiters will oblige. At attractions -- even if it isn't specifically posted -- inquire if a kids' discount is available. European Union citizens under 18 are admitted free to all state-run museums.

Babysitting services are available through most hotel desks or by applying at the Tourist Information Office in the town where you're staying. Many hotels have children's game rooms and playgrounds.

Recommended family travel Internet sites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an award-winning site that offers travel features, deals, and tips; Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children; and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com), which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families.

Package Deals

For travelers who feel more comfortable if everything is prearranged -- hotels, transportation, sightseeing excursions, luggage handling, tips, taxes, and even meals -- a package tour is the obvious choice, and it may even help save money.

From the U.S. -- One of the best tour operators to Norway is ScanAm World Tours (tel. 800/545-2204; www.scanamtours.com). Its best and most highly sought-after itinerary is its Norway in a Nutshell Fjord Tours. These tours, which cost $218 to $480 per person from May to September, take 2 days and 1 night. They include a tour of the famous Flåm Mountain Railroad and a 2-hour cruise on the Aurland Fjord and the Naeroy Fjord. Tours are operated from Oslo to Bergen or vice versa. The company also operates many other tours, the most useful being the 9-day, 8-night tour of Oslo and Bergen, plus the fjord country, for those wanting to cover just the highlights of Norway. Prices include only land and begin at $915 per person.

Grand Circle Travel (tel. 800/959-0405; www.gct.com) offers 17-day tours of the Norwegian fjords and Lapland, with carefully chosen hotels and big Norwegian breakfasts. Highlights of this tour are Bergen, Trondheim, the Lofoten Islands, and Geirangerfjord.

Surprisingly, the major carrier to Norway, SAS Airlines, does not offer tours to Norway. Although American Express (tel. 800/335-3342) also doesn't itself offer package deals to Norway, Amex agents can customize a special package just for you. For holiday tours and packages, turn to Icelandair (tel. 800/223-5500) and see what deals are being offered at the time of your visit.

From the U.K. -- The oldest travel agency in Britain, Cox & Kings, Gordon House 10, Greencoat Place, London SW1P 1PH (tel. 020/7873-5000; www.coxandkings.co.uk), was established in 1758. Today the company specializes in unusual, if pricey, holidays. Its offerings in Norway include cruises through the spectacular fjords and waterways, bus and rail tours through sites of historic and aesthetic interest, and visits to the region's best-known handcraft centers, Viking burial sites, and historic churches. The company's staff is noted for its focus on tours of ecological and environmental interest.

Another reliable tour operator is ScanTours, Inc. (tel. 020/7554-3530; www.scantours.co.uk).

When to Go

In the summer, the average temperature in Norway ranges from 57° to 65°F (13°-18°C). In January, it hovers around 27°F (2°C), ideal weather for winter sports.

The Gulf Stream warms the west coast, where winters tend to be temperate. Rainfall, however, is often heavy here. Above the Arctic Circle, the sun shines night and day from mid-May until late July. For about 2 months every winter, the North Cape is plunged into darkness.

From May to mid-June, the scenery in Norway is at its most spectacular, with fruit trees in blossom, snow in the mountains, and meltwater swelling the waterfalls. There are several public holidays in May, and the Norwegians make full use of them to celebrate springtime after a long winter. In particular, National Day, on May 17, is marked by parties, music, and street parades, with many people dressed in beautiful national costumes. Low-season rates apply during this period.

Late June to early August is the high season in Norway, when the weather is warmest and the schools are on holiday. The most popular tourist places can be busy, but finding peace and quiet, if you wish, is easy. All the man-made tourist attractions are open, and public transport services are more frequent.

Mid-August to October is a time when accommodations and ferries are at mid- or low-season rates. There is so little traffic that you may feel as if you have the whole country to yourself. The temperature drops slowly through September, making for good berry- and mushroom-picking weather. The glorious colors of autumn are at their best in October.

Norway's summer weather is variable and unpredictable, with a number of surprising features. The Atlantic Gulf Stream keeps the western fjord area and the coast up into the Arctic North much warmer than you might expect. The west coast receives the most rain, but the area farther east is drier. The sea temperature can reach 64°F (18°C) or higher on the south coast, where swimming is a popular pastime. Surprisingly, the water is often calm, as most of the inhabited places in Norway are sheltered from the prevailing wind by mountains and forest.

The warmest and most stable weather occurs on the eastern side of the southern mountains, including the south coast between Mandal and Oslo. Even in the north, summer temperatures are pleasantly warm; however, as nearly all of this area is near the west coast, the weather can be wet and changeable. Be sure to take waterproof clothing. If you should be unlucky with the weather, remember a wise Norwegian saying, "There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing."

In winter, much of Norway is transformed into a snow-clad paradise from November to April. Undoubtedly, the best way to enjoy it is on skis, but there are many other things to do as well. Just sitting by the fire in a warm and cozy log cabin is a pleasure for some, as is the friendly, relaxed atmosphere of the hotel bar. Children of all ages (and many grown-ups) never get tired of just playing in the snow. Active types can go tobogganing, skating, ice fishing, ice climbing, dog sledding, and more.

The Midnight Sun -- In the summer, the sun never fully sets in northern Norway; and even in the south, the sun may set around 11pm and rise at 3am. Keep in mind that although the sun shines at midnight, it's not as strong as at midday. Always bring a warm jacket or sweater.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Citizens of the United States, Canada, Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand, and British subjects need a valid passport to enter Norway. You need to apply for a visa only if you want to stay more than 3 months.

For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the International Travel Web page of the U.S. Department of State at http://travel.state.gov (click on "International Travel for U.S. Citizens").

It's always wise to have plenty of documentation when traveling with children in today's world. For changing details on entry requirements for children traveling abroad, go to the U.S. Department of State website at http://travel.state.gov, and click on "Children & Family."

A British Visitor's Passport is also valid for holidays and some business trips of less than 3 months. The passport can also include your spouse, and it's valid for 1 year. Apply in person at a main post office in the British Isles, and the passport will be issued that day.

Your current domestic driver's license is acceptable in Norway. An international driver's license is not required.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Norway -- With certain food exceptions (such as meat, meat products, and cheese), personal effects intended for your own use can be brought into Norway. If you plan to take them with you when you leave, you can bring in cameras, binoculars, radios, portable TVs, and the like, as well as fishing and camping equipment. Visitors of all nationalities can bring in 200 cigarettes, or 250 grams of tobacco and 200 sheets of cigarette paper, or 50 cigars; and 1 liter of spirits or 1 liter of wine. Upon leaving, you can take with you up to NOK25,000 ($5,000/£2,500) in Norwegian currency.

What You Can Take Home from Norway
U.S. Residents -- Returning U.S. residents who have been away for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, $800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You'll be charged a flat rate of 4% duty on the next $1,000 worth of purchases. Any dollar amount beyond that is dutiable at whatever rates apply. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is $200. Be sure to have your receipts or purchases handy to expedite the declaration process. Note: If you owe duty, you are required to pay on your arrival in the United States, by cash, personal check, government or traveler's check, or money order, and in some locations a Visa or MasterCard.

To avoid having to pay duty on foreign-made personal items you owned before you left on your trip, bring along a bill of sale, insurance policy, jeweler's appraisal, or receipts of purchase. Or you can register items that can be readily identified by a permanently affixed serial number or marking -- think laptop computers, cameras, and CD players -- with Customs before you leave. Take the items to the nearest Customs office or register them with Customs at the airport from which you're departing. You'll receive, at no cost, a Certificate of Registration, which allows duty-free entry for the life of the item.

With some exceptions, you cannot bring fresh fruits and vegetables into the United States. For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8867), and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Residents -- For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet Be Aware and Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). Canada allows its residents a C$750 exemption, and adults are allowed to bring back duty-free one carton of cigarettes, one can of tobacco, 40 imperial ounces of liquor, and 50 cigars. In addition, you're allowed to mail gifts to Canada valued at less than C$60 a day, provided they're unsolicited and don't contain alcohol or tobacco (write on the package "Unsolicited gift, under C$60 value"). Declare all valuables on the Y-38 form before departure from Canada, including serial numbers of valuables you already own, such as expensive foreign cameras. Note: The C$750 exemption can be used only once a year and only after an absence of 7 days.

U.K. Residents -- U.K. residents who are returning from a European Union country go through a separate Customs Exit (the "Blue Exit") especially for E.U. travelers. In essence, there is no limit on what you can bring back from an E.U. country, as long as the items are for personal use (this includes gifts) and you have already paid the necessary duty and tax. However, Customs law sets out guidance levels. If you bring in more than these levels, you may be asked to prove that the goods are for your own use. Guidance levels on goods bought in the E.U. for your own use are 3,200 cigarettes, 200 cigars, 400 cigarillos, 3 kilograms of smoking tobacco, 10 liters of spirits, 90 liters of wine, 20 liters of fortified wine (such as port or sherry), and 110 liters of beer.

For information, contact HM revenue Customs at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 02920/501-261), or visit www.hmrc.gov.uk.

Australian Residents -- The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$900. Residents can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 2.25 liters of alcohol. If you're taking valuables you already own, such as foreign-made cameras, you should file form B263. A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-63, or go to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Residents -- The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Residents 18 and over can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture of all three, if their combined weight doesn't exceed 250g); plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer or 1.125 liters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export listing the valuables you are taking out of the country; that way, you can bring them back without paying duty. Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice No. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs Service, the Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Calendar of Events

Dates are approximate. Check with the local tourist office before making plans to attend a specific event.

January

Northern Lights Festival, Tromsø. Classical and contemporary music performances by musicians from Norway and abroad. Visit www.nordlysfestivalen.no for details. Late January.

February

Kristiansund Opera Festival. Featuring Kristiansund Opera's productions of opera and ballet, plus art exhibitions, concerts, and other events. Visit www.oik.no for details. Early February.

March

Holmenkollen Ski Festival, Oslo. One of Europe's largest ski festivals, with World Cup Nordic skiing and biathlons, international ski-jumping competitions, and Norway's largest cross-country race for amateurs. Held at Holmenkollen Ski Jump on the outskirts of Oslo. To participate, attend, or request more information, contact Skiforeningen, Kongeveien 5, Holmenkollen, N-0787 Oslo 3 (tel. 22-92-32-00; www.skiforeningen.no). Early March.

Narvik Winter Festival. Sports events, carnivals, concerts, and opera performances highlight this festival dedicated to those who built the railway across northern Norway and Sweden. Visit www.vinterfestuka.no for details, or call tel. 76-95-03-50. Second week of March to mid-April.

Birkebeiner Race, Rena to Lillehammer. This historic international ski race, with thousands of participants, crosses the mountains between Rena and Lillehammer, site of the 1994 Olympics. It's a 53km (33-mile) cross-country trek. For details, call tel. 41-77-29-00 or go to www.birkebeiner.no. Mid-March.

April

Voss Jazz Festival. Three days of jazz and folk music performances by European and American artists. Visit www.vossajazz.no, or call tel. 56-52-99-11 for details. First week of April.

May

Bergen International Festival (Bergen Festspill). A world-class music event, featuring artists from Norway and around the world. This is one of the largest annual musical events in Scandinavia. Held at various venues in Bergen. For information, contact the Bergen International Festival, Slottsgaten 1, 4055, Dregen N-5835 Bergen (tel. 55-21-06-30; www.fib.no). Late May to early June.

June

Faerder Sailing Race. Some 1,000 sailboats participate in this race, which ends in Borre, by the Oslofjord. Call tel. 23-27-56-00, or go to www.kns.no for details. Mid-June.

North Cape March. This trek from Honningsvåg to the North Cape is one of the world's toughest. The round-trip march is 68km (42 miles) long. Details at www.nordkapp.no. Mid-June.

Emigration Festival, Stavanger. A festive commemoration of Norwegian emigration to North America, with exhibitions, concerts, theater, and folklore. Mid-June.

Midsummer Night, nationwide. Celebrations and bonfires explode all over Norway in honor of the midnight sun. June 23.

Emigration Festival, Kvinesdal. Commemorates the Norwegian emigration to the United States. Late June to early July.

Midnight Sun Marathon, Tromsø. This marathon in northern Norway starts at midnight and draws eager runners from over 30 countries. For details, call tel. 77-67-33-63 or go to www.msm.no. Mid-June.

July

Kongsberg International Jazz Festival. International artists participate in one of the most important jazz festivals in Scandinavia, with open-air concerts. Call tel. 32-73-31-66, or visit www.kongsberg-jazzfestival.no for details. Early July.

Exxon Mobil Bislett Games, Oslo. International athletic competitions are staged in Oslo, with professional participants from all over the world. For details, call tel. 22-59-17-59 or visit www.bislettgames.com. Early to mid-July.

Molde International Jazz Festival. The "City of Roses" is the site of Norway's oldest jazz festival. It attracts international stars from both sides of the Atlantic every year and is held at venues in Molde for 6 days. For details, contact the Molde Jazz Festival, Box 415, N-6401 Molde (tel. 71-20-31-50; www.moldejazz.no). Mid-July.

Norway Cup International Youth Soccer Tournament, Oslo. The world's largest youth soccer tournament attracts 1,000 teams from around the world to Oslo. Call tel. 22-28-90-57, or visit www.norway-cup.no. Late July to early August.

August

Telemark International Folk Music Festival, Bø. An international festival of folk music and folk dance takes place in the home of many famous fiddlers, dancers, and singers. Call tel. 33-95-19-19, or visit www.telemarkfestivalen.no. Early August.

Peer Gynt Festival, Vinstra. Art exhibitions, evenings of music and song, parades in national costumes, and other events honor Ibsen's fictional character. Call tel. 61-29-47-70, or visit www.peergynt.no for details. Early August.

Oslo Jazz Festival. This annual festival features music from the earliest years of jazz (1920-25), as well as classical concerts, opera, and ballet. For details, call the Oslo Tourist Bureau, at tel. 81-53-05-55, or visit www.oslojazz.no. Second week of August.

Chamber Music Festival, Oslo. Norwegian and foreign musicians perform at Oslo's Akershus Castle and Fortress, which dates from A.D. 1300. Call tel. 23-10-07-30, or visit www.oslokammermusikkfestival.no for details. Mid-August.

September

Oslo Marathon. This annual event draws some of Norway's best long-distance runners. Call tel. 22-69-31-20-21, or visit www.oslomaraton.no. Mid-September.

December

Nobel Peace Prize Ceremony, Oslo. A major event on the Oslo calendar, attracting world attention. Attendance is by invitation only. For information, contact the Nobel Institute, Henrik Ibsen Gate 51, N-0255 Oslo 2 (tel. 22-12-93-00; http://nobelprize.org). Held at Oslo City Hall. December 10.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

As one of the most sophisticated countries on the planet, it naturally follows that Norway is also one of the most gay-friendly. Most Norwegians are tolerant of the lifestyles of others, including their sexual preference. Obviously, an urban center such as Oslo will accommodate a more openly gay life than in rural areas.

In Norway, gays and lesbians have the same legal status as heterosexuals, with the exception of adoption rights. Legislation passed in 1981 protects gays and lesbians from discrimination. In 1993, a law was passed recognizing the "partnerships" of homosexual couples -- in essence, a recognition of same-sex marriages. The age of consent for both men and women in Norway is 16 years of age.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/630-1637; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com) are gay Australia tour specialists. San Francisco-based Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) offers worldwide trips and cruises. And Olivia (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) offers lesbian cruises and resort vacations.

Gay.com Travel (tel. 415/834-6500; www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide.

The Canadian website GayTraveler (www.gaytraveler.ca) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide) and Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner, 17th Edition (Odysseus Enterprises, Ltd.); and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Norway has been in the vanguard of providing services for people with disabilities. In general, trains, airlines, ferries, department stores, and malls are accessible. For information about wheelchair access, ferry and air travel, parking, and other matters, contact the appropriate tourist board. The Norwegian Association of the Disabled, Schweigaardsgt #12, 9217 Grønland, 0185 Oslo (tel. 24-10-24-00; www.nhf.no), also provides useful information.

If you're flying around Norway or Europe in general, the airline can help with such things as reserving seats with enough space, while ground staff can help you on and off planes; but you must arrange for this assistance in advance through the airline.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) offers escorted tours and cruises that emphasize sports, and private tours in minivans with lifts. Access-Able Travel Source (www.access-able.com) offers extensive access information and advice for traveling around the world with disabilities. Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com) caters specifically to slow walkers and wheelchair travelers and their families and friends.

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS; www.mossresourcenet.org), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; SATH (Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org; annual membership fees: $45 adults, $30 seniors and students), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services; and the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org), a referral resource for the blind or visually impaired that includes information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs.

For more information specifically targeted to travelers with disabilities, the community website iCan (www.icanonline.net) has destination guides and several regular columns on accessible travel. Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com) and Open World Magazine, published by SATH.

For British Travelers -- The Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation (RADAR), Unit 12, City Forum, 250 City Rd., London EC1V 8AF (tel. 020/7250-3222; www.radar.org.uk), publishes three holiday "fact packs." The first provides general information, including tips for planning and booking a holiday, obtaining insurance, and handling finances; the second outlines transportation available when going abroad and equipment for rent; and the third deals with specialized accommodations. Another good resource is Holiday Care Service, Seventh Floor, Sunley House, 4 Bedford Park, Croydon, Surrey CR0 2AP (tel. 0845/124-9971; www.holidaycare.org.uk), a national charity advising on accessible accommodations for seniors and persons with disabilities. Annual membership is £37.

Health & Insurance

Insurance

Medical Insurance -- For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services up front and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. at tel. 800/777-8710).

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or contact Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC only covers "necessary medical treatment." For repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

Travel Insurance -- The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com (tel. 800/487-4722). Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check out Moneysupermarket House (tel. 0845/345-5708; www.moneysupermarket.com), which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multitrip policies.

Most big travel agencies offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes "Holiday Insurance," a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip Cancellation Insurance -- Trip-cancellation insurance will help you retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip before departing, if you have to end your trip abruptly, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Health

Norway is viewed as a "safe" destination, although problems, of course, can and do occur anywhere. You don't need to get shots, most food is safe, and the water in cities and towns is potable. It is easy to get a prescription filled in towns and cities, and nearly all places throughout Norway contain hospitals with English-speaking doctors.

General Availability of Health Care -- If a medical emergency arises, your hotel staff can usually put you in touch with a reliable doctor. If not, contact the American embassy or a consulate; each one maintains a list of English-speaking doctors. Medical and hospital services aren't free, so be sure that you have appropriate insurance coverage before you travel.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435 or 404/498-1515; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Healthy Travels to You -- The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice.

• Australia: www.dfat.gov.au/travel
• Canada: www.hc-sc.gc.ca/index_e.html
• U.K.: www.dh.gov.uk/en/Policyandguidance/Healthadvicefortravellers
• U.S.: www.cdc.gov/travel

What to Do If You Get Sick away from Home -- For travel abroad, you may have to pay all medical costs up front and be reimbursed later. Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Very few health insurance plans pay for medical evacuation back to the U.S. (which can cost $10,000 and up). A number of companies offer medical evacuation services anywhere in the world. If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice virtually anywhere in the world in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are $225 individual, $350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

U.K. nationals will need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC; tel. 0845/606-2030; www.ehic.org.uk) to receive free or reduced-costs health benefits during a visit to a European Economic Area (EEA) country (European Union countries plus Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway) or Switzerland. The European Health Insurance Card replaces the E111 form, which is no longer valid. For advice, ask at your local post office or see www.dh.gov.uk/travellers.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

Staying Safe

Norway has a relatively low crime rate, with rare but increasing instances of violent crime. Most crimes involve the theft of personal property from cars or residences or in public areas. Pickpockets and purse-snatchers often work in pairs or groups, with one distracting the victim while another grabs valuables. Often they operate in or near major tourist attractions like in central Oslo, especially at restaurants, museums, bars, and buses, and on subway trains. Hotel breakfast rooms and lobbies attract professional, well-dressed thieves who blend in with guests and target purses and briefcases left unguarded by unsuspecting visitors and business travelers. Valuables should never be left unguarded in parked vehicles.

The loss or theft abroad of a passport should be reported immediately to the local police and your nearest embassy or consulate. U.S. citizens may refer to the Department of State's pamphlet, A Safe Trip Abroad, for ways to promote trouble-free journeys. The pamphlet is available by mail from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402, via the Internet at www.access.gpo.gov, or via the Bureau of Consular Affairs home page at http://travel.state.gov.

Fast Facts

American Express -- There is an office in Oslo. American Express Reisebyrå, Maribores Gate 13 (tel. 22-98-35-00), is open Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm, Saturday 10am to 4pm.

Area Code -- The international country code for Norway is 47. If you're calling from outside the country, the city code is 2 for Oslo and 5 for Bergen. When calling within Norway, no area or city codes are needed. Phone numbers have eight digits.

Babysitters Hotels can often enlist the help of a housekeeper for "child-minding." Give at least a day's notice, two if you can. You can also contact one of the local tourist offices as well; they often keep a list of available sitters on file.

Business Hours -- Most banks are open Monday to Friday from 8:15am to 3:30pm (on Thurs to 5pm), and are closed Saturday and Sunday. The bank at Gardermoen Airport in Oslo is open Monday to Saturday from 6:30am to 8pm and Sunday from 7am to 8pm. Most businesses are open Monday to Friday from 9am to 4pm. Stores are generally open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm (many stay open on Thurs until 6 or 7pm) and Saturday 9am to 1 or 2pm. Sunday closings are observed.

Doctors -- Your embassy or consulate, as well as most hotels, keep a list of recommended English-speaking physicians.

Drinking Laws -- Most restaurants, pubs, and bars in Norway are licensed to serve liquor, wine, and beer. The drinking age is 18 for beer and wine and 20 for liquor.

Drugstores -- Drugstores, called apotek, are open during normal business hours.

Electricity -- Norway uses 220 volts, 30 to 50 cycles, AC, and standard Continental two-pin plugs. Transformers and adapters will be needed with Canadian and American equipment.

Embassies & Consulates -- In case you lose your passport or have some other emergency, contact your embassy in Oslo. The embassy of the United States is at Henrik Ibsensgate 48, N-0244 Oslo (tel. 22-44-85-50; http://norway.usembassy.gov); United Kingdom, Thomas Heftyesgate 8, N-0244 Oslo (tel. 23-13-27-00; http://ukinnorway.fco.gov.uk); and Canada, Wergelandsveien 7, N-0244 Oslo (tel. 22-99-53-00; http://norway.gc.ca). The Irish Embassy is at Haakon VII's gate 1, N-0244 Oslo (tel. 22-01-72-00; www.embassyofireland.no). The Australian Embassy is closed in Oslo; contact the Australian Consulate, Strandveien 20, N-1324 Lysaker (tel. 67-58-48-48). The New Zealand Embassy is also closed in Oslo; contact the New Zealand Consulate, Strandveien 50, N1324 Lysaker (tel. 67-11-00-33). There is a British consulate in Bergen at Carl Konowsgate 34 (tel. 55-36-78-10).

Emergencies -- Throughout Norway, call tel. 112 for the police, tel. 110 to report a fire, or tel. 113 to request an ambulance.

Holidays -- Norway celebrates the following public holidays: New Year's Day (Jan 1), Maundy Thursday, Good Friday, Easter, Labor Day (May 1), Ascension Day (mid-May), National Day (May 17), Whitmonday (late May), Christmas (Dec 25), and Boxing Day (Dec 26).

Hospitals -- Nearly all places throughout Norway contain hospitals with English-speaking doctors.

Language -- Norwegians are taught English in grade school. There are two official versions of Norwegian itself, one called Bokmail, spoken by about 85% of the population, the lesser known called Nynorsk. Nynorsk is identified as "new Norwegian," but it actually isn't. The language is a form of older dialects spoken in rural parts of the country. In the north, the Sami or Lapps have their own language, which is a distant cousin of Finnish.

Laundry & Dry Cleaning -- Most hotels provide these services. There are coin-operated launderettes and dry cleaners in most Norwegian cities.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover that your wallet has been lost or stolen, and then file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or a police record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's emergency number outside the U.S. is tel. 410/581-3836; call collect. American Express cardholders should call collect tel. 336/393-1111. MasterCard holders should call collect tel. 314/542-7111. If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- Airmail letters or postcards to the United States and Canada cost NOK10.5 ($2.10/£1.10) for up to 20 grams (7/10 oz.). Airmail letters take 7 to 10 days to reach North America. The principal post office in Norway is the Oslo Central Post Office, at Dronningensgate 15, N-0101 Oslo. Mailboxes are vibrant red and are embossed with the trumpet symbol of the postal service. They're found on walls, at chest level, throughout cities and towns. Stamps can be purchased at the post office, at magazine kiosks, or at some stores.

Passports -- The websites listed below provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the International Travel Web page of the U.S. Department of State at http://travel.state.gov (click on "International Travel for U.S. Citizens"). International visitors to the U.S. can obtain a visa application at the same website. Note: Children are required to present a passport when entering the United States at airports. More information on obtaining a passport for a minor can be found at http://travel.state.gov. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 4 to 6 weeks (3 weeks for expedited service) but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia -- You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport.

For Residents of Ireland -- You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 21/494-4700) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand -- You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-yr. passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

Police -- Dial tel. 112 nationwide.

Smoking -- This progressive country bans smoking in public places. Under the law, Norwegians are allowed to smoke in private homes and outdoors. One of the main reasons for law is to protect employees in restaurants and bars, and other places, from secondhand smoke.

Taxes -- Norway imposes a 19.4% value-added tax (VAT) on most goods and services, which is figured into your final bill. If you buy goods in any store bearing the TAX-FREE sign, you're entitled to a cash refund of up to 18.5% on purchases costing over NOK315 ($63/£32). Ask the shop assistant for a tax-free shopping check. You may not use the articles purchased before leaving Norway, and they must be taken out of the country within 3 months of purchase. Complete the information requested on the back of the check you're given at the store; at your point of departure, report to an area marked by the TAX-FREE sign, not at Customs. Your refund check will be exchanged there in kroner for the amount due you. Refunds are available at airports, ferry and cruise-ship terminals, borders, and train stations.

Telephones -- The country code for Norway is 47, but there are no area codes inside Norway. Phone numbers have eight digits. In every case, you dial all eight digits. Toll-free numbers begin with the prefix 800 or 810. If a number has a prefix of 815, it is not toll free, and you must pay NOK1 (20¢/10p) per call. Also, phone numbers that start with the prefix of 82 cost extra.

Norway is the land of the cellular phone. It is estimated that some 90% of all Norwegians carry these phones. If the number you're calling starts with a 4 or a 9, chances are good that you're calling a mobile phone number. It is more expensive to call a mobile phone than it is to call a regular phone.

For information in Norway, dial 1881, or else call 1882 for international phone numbers. Dial 115 if you want to call collect or need help from an operator. Outside of Norway, call 117 for collect or operator-assisted calls.

If you wish to place an international call, you can dial directly using the access code of 0, then the country code and the number: 1 for the United States and Canada; 61 for Australia; 44 for Great Britain, and 64 for New Zealand. Access codes are as follows: AT&T Direct (tel. 800/CALL-ATT); MCI WorldPhone (tel. 800/19912), and Sprint International Access (tel. 800/19877).

To use public phones in Norway, you can purchase a Tellerskritt or phone card at most shops and kiosks. These costs NOK40 ($8/£4) to NOK140 ($28/£14). About 50% of the public phones in Norway also take major credit cards.

Some public phones are called "Green Card" phones, and these will only accept phone cards, Tellerskritt, or a major credit card.

Others are push-button phones, taking coins of NOK1 (20¢/10p), NOK5 ($1/50p), or NOK10 ($2/£1). Some of these phones will also accept NOK20 ($4/£2) coins. Lift the receiver and listen for the dial tone, then insert the coins and dial the number. Local calls from a pay phone cost NOK3 to NOK5 (60¢-$1/30p-50p).

Time -- Norway operates on Central European Time -- 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time and 6 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time. (At noon Eastern Standard Time -- say, in New York City -- it's 6pm in Norway.) Norway goes on summer time -- 1 hour earlier -- from the end of March until around the end of September.

Tipping -- Hotels add a 10% to 15% service charge to your bill, which is sufficient unless someone has performed a special service. Most bellhops get at least 10NOK ($2/£1) per suitcase. Nearly all restaurants add a service charge of up to 15% to your bill. Barbers and hairdressers usually aren't tipped, but toilet attendants expect at least 4NOK (80¢/40p). Taxi drivers throughout Norway don't expect tips unless they handle heavy luggage.

Toilets -- All terminals, big-city squares, and the like have public lavatories. In small towns and villages, head for the marketplace. Hygiene standards are usually adequate. If you patronize the toilets in a privately run establishment (such as a cafe), it's polite to buy something, such as a small pastry or coffee.

Useful Phone Numbers -- U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory tel. 202/647-5225 (24 hrs.); U.S. Passport Agency tel. 202/647-0518; U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hotline tel. 404/332-4559.

Water -- Tap water is generally safe to drink throughout Norway. Never drink from a mountain stream, fjord, or river, regardless of how clean it might appear.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism is conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore, and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are ecotourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that ecotourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Ecotravel.com, which lets you search for sustainable touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

While much of the focus of eco-tourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Volunteer travel has become popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn't require special skills -- just a willingness to work hard -- and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly.

For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Before you commit to a volunteer program, it's important to make sure any money you're giving is truly going back to the local community, and that the work you'll be doing will be a good fit for you. Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program.

It's Easy Being Green

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel:

• Each time you take a flight or drive a car greenhouse gases release into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce your greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you're using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon offset companies include Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and CoolClimate (http://coolclimate.berkeley.edu).