Active Pursuits in Nova Scotia
There are many, many ways to get outdoors in Nova Scotia. Here are just a few of the best.
Biking in Nova Scotia
The low hills and gentle, low-traffic roads of mainland Nova Scotia make for wonderful cycling. The highlands of Cape Breton Island present the most challenging roads; the south coast, north coast, and Bay of Fundy regions yield wonderful ocean views while making fewer cardiovascular demands on the cyclist. Visit Cycling Nova Scotia (tel. 902/377-2960) to view and download specific cycling routes, itineraries and other useful resources. For information on where to cycle along the Blue Route, made up of 3,000 kilometers (1,900 mi) of on- and off-road bicycle trails connecting communities throughout the province the Blue Route, visit blueroute.ca.
Bird Watching in Nova Scotia
More than 400 species of birds have been spotted in Nova Scotia, ranging from odd and exotic birds blown off course in storms, to northern birds in their extreme southern range in summer, to year-round residents like majestic bald eagles. Nova Scotia gained the distinction of having the highest concentration of breeding bald eagles in northeastern North America in 1975; by the mid-'80s, numbers were robust enough to supply eaglets to the northeastern United States to rebuild their population. The highest concentration is seen around Bras d’Or Lakes in the summer, but they appear throughout the province. Nova Scotia’s official bird is the osprey, a smaller bird of prey nicknamed here “the fishhawk” because it dives dramatically for fish. You might spot poles erected for their use, topped with wide twig nests with chicks peering over the edge. Many whale-watching tours also offer specialized seabird-spotting tours, including trips to puffin colonies.
Camping in Nova Scotia
With backcountry options rather limited, Nova Scotia’s forte is drive-in camping. The 20 or so provincial parks offer some 1,500 campsites. Campgrounds are uniformly clean, friendly, well-managed, and reasonably priced. For a complete list, visit novascotiaparks.ca. Make advance reservations at provincial or national parks during the summer. For a list of private campgrounds, check out the website run by the Campground Owners Association of Nova Scotia.
Canoeing & Kayaking in Nova Scotia
Nova Scotia offers an abundance of accessible canoeing on inland lakes and ponds. The premier destination is Kejimkujik National Park in the southern interior, which has plenty of backcountry sites accessible by canoe. You can even trace the traditional trading routes of the Mi’kmaq—check in with park staff for details. A number of other fine canoe trips allow paddlers and portagers to venture off for hours or days. Canoe Kayak Nova Scotia has a wealth of downloadable information, including route maps, on their website.
Fishing in Nova Scotia
Saltwater-fishing tours are easily arranged on charter boats berthed at many of the province’s harbors or through websites such as GetMyBoat.com or RentABoat.com. Also, inquire locally at visitor information centers. No fishing license is required for most saltwater species for those on charters, but there are important restrictions. For questions, current fishing regulations, or lists of licensed fishing guides, check out the Nova Scotia Department of Fisheries and Aquaculture website.
Committed freshwater anglers come to Nova Scotia in pursuit of trout, bass, and the tragically dwindling Atlantic salmon, which requires a license separate from that for other freshwater fish. Salmon licenses must be obtained from a provincial office, campground, or licensed outfitter.
Golf in Nova Scotia
With the opening of Cabot Links in 2012 and Cabot Cliffs in 2016, Nova Scotia golf hit the big time. These sister courses run along the coast in Inverness on Cape Breton Island. Both Golf Digest and Golf Magazine placed Links in the world’s top 100 courses upon opening. Canada Golf Magazine named Cabot Links the country’s top course. These and more than 70 other courses make a golfing holiday to Nova Scotia particularly attractive, especially when you consider that the tempering influence of the Atlantic Ocean on the weather means some courses on the South Shore are playable up to 10 months a year.
New courses are always being constructed. For one-stop shopping, Golf Nova Scotia represents about 20 well-regarded properties around the province and sells golfing packages at its member courses.
Hiking in Nova Scotia
Serious hikers make tracks for Cape Breton Highlands National Park, which is home to the most dramatic terrain in the province. But trails are found throughout Nova Scotia. An energetic “rails to trails” movement has seen former railway beds converted to hiking trails, and communities have developed these and other trails as a way to give visitors and residents more to do. Ask at the visitor information centers, check the “Hiking & Walking” sections at novascotia.com or read any of the excellent books by Nova Scotia hiking guru Michael Haynes.
Sailing in Nova Scotia
Any area with so much indented coastline, and so many islands, is kismet for sailors. Tours and charters are available almost everywhere there’s a decent-size harbor. The province’s premier sailing experience for the non-sailor is an excursion aboard the Bluenose II, which is virtually an icon for Atlantic Canada, and calls at Halifax, Lunenburg, and other ports. Bras d’Or Lakes are very popular with sailing fans. Boat tour operators can be found in the “Tours” section at novascotia.com or by calling tel. 800/565-0000. Skilled sailors will want to check in with the Nova Scotia Yachting Association. They have a race schedule, events, and sailing school information at sailnovascotia.ca.
Sea Kayaking in Nova Scotia
Nova Scotia’s 7,600km (4,722 miles) of coastline is increasingly attracting the attention of kayakers worldwide. Sea kayak excursions are especially rewarding when seals, puffins, or porpoises come alongside. Kayakers traveling on their own should be especially cautious on the Bay of Fundy side; the massive tides create strong currents that overmatch even the fittest of paddlers. More than a dozen kayak outfitters do business in Nova Scotia, offering everything from 1-hour introductory paddles to intensive weeklong trips.
Among the most respected outfitters is Coastal Adventures, 84 Mason’s Point Rd., Tangier (tel. 877/404-2774 or 902/772-2774). The company is run by veteran kayaker and doctorate-in-biology Dr. Scott Cunningham, who leads trips throughout the Maritimes and Newfoundland. For kayaking on the eastern side of Cape Breton, check with North River Kayak (tel. 888/865-2925 or 902/929-2628). Owner Angelo Spinazzola is a native Cape Bretoner and a professional musician.
Whale Watching in Nova Scotia
When on the Nova Scotia coast, you’re never far from a whale-watching operation. Around two-dozen such tour outfits offer trips in search of finback, humpback, pilot, and minke whales, among others. The richest waters for whale-watching are on the Fundy Coast and Cape Breton. Fundy Bay is where the endangered right whale is often seen feeding in summer; thus, Digby Neck (the thin strand of land extending southwest from the town of Digby) has the highest concentration of whale-watching excursions in the province, but you’ll find them in many other coves and harbors, as well. Pods of pilot whales on the Atlantic coast are a sight to behold.