Hotels in Nova Scotia's Northern Shore
Antigonish
Antigonish is located just off the Trans-Canada Highway, the last town of any size before you reach Cape Breton Island. As such, it's home to a number of chain motels, both downtown and on the "strip" leading into town. If nightfall is coming, and you're bound for Cape Breton, I'd suggest overnighting here and pushing off the next morning. That's because Port Hastings and Port Hawkesbury -- the first towns you encounter on Cape Breton -- are also full of chain motels. Antigonish is a better choice, with better restaurants.
Budget travelers can also book a no-frills dorm room or apartment at St. Francis Xavier University (tel. 902/867-2855 or 877/STAY-AT-X [782-9289]) from mid-May through mid-August. The dorm rooms are mostly simple and share hallway washrooms, but they include all the basics: linens, pillows, towels, and soap. Apartments have private bathrooms and kitchens -- but no utensils; bring your own. Dorm room rates here range from about C$40 to C$125 for two, including tax, while the dorm apartments (four single bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a living room) cost from C$115 to C$145 per night. Meals are available in the Morrison Dining Hall for a small charge. The best thing about staying here is that you get the use of some campus facilities -- and walk-to-it proximity to the summer theater festival. If you're looking for a room and it's after business hours, head to the Security Office in the basement of MacKinnon Hall and ask nicely.
At the west edge of town on the Trans-Canada Highway (Route 104), you'll find the plain Chateau Motel (tel. 877/339-8544 or 902/863-4871) with about 16 double rooms (queen and king beds) and simple cottages (double beds, but full kitchens). There's also a Laundromat on the premises. Rates are C$69 to C$99 per night.
- B&B
Antigonish Victorian Inn
Despite the name, some rooms at this downtown inn (across the street from the Maritime Inn, above) are a combination of period and contemporary—carved four-poster beds, say, and new armchairs. The best, like The Library, are grand rooms with hardwood floors showing off the tiled…$$Antigonish - Hotel
Auberge Walker Inn
This handsome downtown inn is located in a brick townhouse dating from 1865; it overlooks one of Pictou's more active intersections. The innkeepers have done a good job of making the place comfortable while still retaining its heritage sensibilities. Some rooms (such as no. 10, on…$Pictou - Hotel
Castle Rock Country Inn
The hillside perch from which Castle Rock overlooks the Ingonish area and the ocean beyond feels like a eagle’s eyrie. It’s the last view of the Ingoinish enclave and the park before climbing over Cape Smokey. As you’d expect, the rooms facing that direction come with extraordinary…$$Ingonish Ferry - Hotel
Keltic Lodge and Spa
Once Nova Scotia’s premier resort, the Keltic Lodge has seen better days. Service is only so-so, with the maids making a racket long before most guests want to rise, and harried servers in the several restaurants. Speaking of those restaurants, meals can be hit or miss. The kitchen…$$$Ingonish Beach - Hotel
Maritime Inn Antigonish
Location, location, location is what recommends this comfortable, clean motel/inn. Step out the front door and you are in the middle of a Main Street bustling with shops, restaurants, and services. The rooms are clean and comfortable; the least expensive are drive-ups on the main…$$Antigonish - Hotel
Pictou Lodge Beachfront Resort
The original lodge and log outbuildings here have gone through a number of ownership changes -- including the Canadian National Railway and an inn chain -- since entrepreneurs built the compound on a grassy bluff overlooking a nice beach early in the 20th century. It's now owned…$$Pictou - Campground
Seafoam Campground
Among the many campgrounds along this coast, there’s none better equipped than Seafoam. Grassy fields lead down to the beach and the warm, very calm waters of the Northumberland Strait. Kids will be entertained for days at the beach, playing and watching fishing boats putter along…$River John - Hotel
The Scotman Inn
This 1865 heritage property is so loaded with character, a murder mystery could be set here, and indeed, the innkeepers will warn you about the (friendly) ghost. Inside the large brick townhouse, recently renovated rooms are decorated with original artwork and period furniture. The…$$Pictou - Hotel
Train Station Inn
This is one of the most unique lodgings in Nova Scotia—and in Canada, for that matter. Located down a side street in Tatamagouche’s former railyard, the Train Station Inn offers eight Canadian National cabooses and two boxcars for overnight lodging. The rail cars have been…$$Pugwash & Tatamagouche

