Given the sometimes dangerous condition of the roads and the difficulty of finding things on Nuku Hiva, I recommend seeing the sights on a guided tour. The best are offered by the Keikahanui Nuku Hiva Pearl Lodge, which offers a full-day tour to the Taipivai Valley and Hatiheu for about 14,000CFP (US$175/£89) per person, including lunch at Chez Yvonne. It also has a half-day version that goes as far as the Taipivai. The lodge's guides speak English.

Another option is Pua Excursions (tel. 92.06.87; www.puaexcursions.pf). Owner Georges "Pua" Taupotini will arrange excursions by land as well as on foot and horseback.