The Nuku Ataha Airport is on Nuku Hiva's dry northwestern corner, 48km (29 miles) from Taiohae. A vehicle will be sent from your accommodations to meet you for about 8,000CFP (US$100/£51) per person round-trip. From the airport, it's a tiring ride of about 2 hours on the winding road that climbs up and down two steep mountain ridges and across the Toovii Plateau before descending into Taiohae. (You did not misread me; it takes 2 hours to go 48km/29 miles.) Add that to the 3 1/2-hour flight from Papeete, and you can easily eat up a day just getting to Taiohae. There is some great scenery along the way, however, so I look at the ride from the airport to Taiohae as just another four-wheel-drive excursion.

Nuku Hiva is the place to get carsick. Although the government is slowly paving them, all of its few roads are narrow, winding, and often treacherous, especially when wet. In places, they are literally blasted into the sides of cliffs. If you miss one of the many 180-degree hairpin curves, you could plunge more than 1,000 feet to your ultimate demise. For this reason, I recommend exploring by guided tour rather than rental vehicle. If you insist on taking your life into your own hands, Europcar (tel./fax 92.04.89; www.europcar-tahiti.com) and Pension Moana Nui (tel. 92.03.30; http://pensionmoananui.ifrance.com), both in Taiohae, rent four-wheel-drive vehicles for about 12,500CFP (US$156/£79) per day. I warned you, though, so don't sue me if you drive off a cliff.

There is no regular taxi service on Nuku Hiva as such, but several locals will take you about in their four-wheel-drive vehicles. The arrangements can be made through your accommodations, or contact Nuku Hiva Transports (tel. 92.06.08), Huku Tours (tel. 92.04.89), or Rose Marie Tours (tel. 92.05.96). Fares depend on how far you want to go, so be sure to agree on a price before setting out.

Residents of the outlying villages are as likely to travel by boat as they are by vehicle. Several individuals rent crewed boats to take you from place to place, such as from Taiohae around to the Hakaui Valley, or from Hatiheu to Anaho on the north shore. Ask at your accommodations to arrange a boat, or contact the local tourism committee for advice. The boats moor at the marina on the eastern side of Taiohae Bay.

Fast Facts

Currency Exchange -- Banque Socredo has an office on the waterfront in Taiohae. The ATM is inside the building, so you'll have to come here during banking hours: Monday through Friday from 7:30 to 11:30am and 1:30 to 4pm.

Drugstores -- Pharmacie Nuku Hiva, on the western side of Taiohae (tel. 91.00.90), is open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to noon and 3 to 5pm, Saturday from 9 to 11am.

Emergencies & Police -- The emergency police phone number is tel. 17. The phone number of the gendarmerie in Taiohae is tel. 92.03.61.

Healthcare -- Taiohae has a government hospital (tel. 91.02.00), and Haitiheu and Taipivai villages both have infirmaries.

Internet Access -- The island's one hotel and some of its pensions have Internet access for their guests, or you can go to the post and telecommunications office . Nuku Hiva Yacht Services (tel. 91.01.50; anneragu@hotmail.com) has access for cruising yachts.

Post Office -- The post and telecommunications office in Taiohae is uphill between the small boat marina and the cruise-ship port. It's open Monday through Thursday from 7:30 to 11:30am and noon to 3:30pm, Friday to 4:30pm.

Telephone -- There are télécarte phones at the Taiohae post and telecommunications office, at the small boat marina, at the ship dock, on the waterfront near the Kovivi restaurant, and in Hatiheu and Taipivai villages. As in the Tuamotu Archipelago, Nuku Hiva residents are more likely to write their phone numbers in two groups rather than three (for example, 920 000 instead of 92.00.00).

Visitor Information -- The Comité du Tourisme de Nuku Hiva, B.P. 32, 98742 Nuku Hiva (tel. 92.03.73; fax 92.03.25; www.marquises.pf), has a visitor information office near the Taiohae mairie (town hall). Its hours are irregular, so call ahead.

Water -- Don't drink the tap water on Nuku Hiva. The grocery stores sell bottled water.

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