In Iqaluit

Dining choices are limited, even in the capital. You'll find prices are sometimes double that of more southern locales, and the quality is often low. But there are a few spots that beat out the rest.

The Grind 'n Brew (Building 116B; tel. 867/979-0606), essentially a shack across the street from the Bay, is a local favorite. Don't let the clutter and kitsch throw you off: This is the best place in town to get a pizza, and the early morning "Eye Opener" breakfast sandwiches are delicious, especially before a day out on the land. Sit down at one of the tables for a coffee, and you'll learn all the local gossip.

Water's Edge (tel. 867/979-4726), in the Nova Inn, is Iqaluit's newest and arguably most up-scale dining establishment, and has menu items on par with anything you'd find in the south. You can order salads, crab cakes, and even filet mignon and live lobster, and they sometimes have local cuisine (called "Country Food") like caribou, musk-ox, and Arctic char on offer.

Two local classics sure to cure junk food cravings are the Snack (Building 163; tel. 867/979-6767) and the Chinese food at the Captain's Table Dining Room at the Navigator Inn (Building 1036; tel. 867/979-8833). You'll see Snack delivery jeeps riding all through town 24 hours a day, so getting delivery is a popular option, or you can slide into one of the red patent-leather booths at the restaurant and treat yourself to Québécois favorites like poutine (C$9.25) or submarine sandwiches (C$21 for the steak sub). The "Nav's" buffet (C$21 Mon-Fri noon-1pm, C$31 Fri 5-8:30pm) has all you'd imagine -- chow mein, sweet-and-sour pork, deep-fried chicken balls, spicy calamari, and won ton soup. It's a good value, but get there at noon to beat the office crowd.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.