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Nico’s has expanded from a hole-in-the-wall to a gleaming, open-air restaurant almost four times its original size. The food isn’t quite as good as it used to be, but it’s still one of the best places around to get fresh fish plates for under $20. I also love its setting along the industrial waterfront, where Hawaii’s commercial fishing fleet resides—this isn’t a fake fisherman’s wharf but the real deal. Popular dishes here are the furikake pan-seared ‘ahi and the catch-of-the-day special—perhaps opah sauced with tomato beurre blanc or swordfish topped with crab bisque (the chef, Nico Chaize, is French born). As part of the expansion, there’s also a fish market next door where you can take out fresh poke and smoked swordfish to eat on the tables outside. Renting a place with a kitchen? Pick up fresh fish filets to take home and cook. (There’s also a new location in Kailua.)