If you are interested in seeing the region's traditional dances, you can check out the small-scale Guelaguetza performed by professional dancers at the Hotel Camino Real on Fridays from 7 to 10pm. The cost (365 pesos) includes a buffet. La Casa de Cantera (tel. 951/514-9522; www.casadecantera.com), at Federico Ortiz 104, just off Calzada Porfirio Díaz in the Colonia Reforma offers something similar. The cover charge of 180 pesos is for the show only, which runs most nights from 8:30 to 10:15pm. Supper costs another 145 pesos, which doesn't include drinks. Call for reservations.
Concerts and dance programs take place all year at the Teatro Macedonio de Alcalá, Independencia and Armenta y López. Schedules are often posted by the front doors of the theater. In the early evening, the zócalo is a happening place. The municipal brass band and marimba players perform free concerts on alternating nights. As the night wears on, you'll usually find some mariachis hanging about.
Just south of the zócalo is a 90-year-old cantina called La Farola (tel. 951/516-5352), at 20 de Noviembre 3. Daily from 9:30am to 1:30am it serves mezcal, both its own house brand and many others. You can also get beer and other forms of alcohol, of course. It has an original section and a newer section, so you should explore it a bit before you settle down for a drink.
For salsa, go to La Candela, Murguía 413 (tel. 951/514-2010), with live music Thursday through Saturday from 10:30pm to 2am. The cover is usually 50 pesos.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.