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Wine Road Detour

East of Orebić, about 32km (20 miles) along the main road to Ston, you’ll see a turnoff for Trstenik that leads to Grgić Vina, the ancestral home of the founders of Grgich Hills, one of America’s greatest wineries. Grgić is very modest compared to its American counterpart, but it produces some of Croatia’s most sought-after wines. The winery is open daily from 9am to 5pm and takes credit cards. The Bartulović tours include Grgić on their “Three Winery” tour. You can also visit independently, though whether anyone will be available to give an actual tour will depend on how busy it is. I recommend calling in advance, as these are family-run establishments which have somewhat unreliable working hours outside peak season (July and August). You can contact Grgić at Grgić Vina d.o.o., Trstenik 28, Pelješac (www.grgic-vina.com; tel. 020/748-090).

A few miles past Grgić on the way to Grgić, you’ll encounter many signs advertising homemade wine and rakija. Stop if you are curious, but be sure to leave time for the Dingać wine district, about 16km (10 miles) past Grgić. There are many big names here, including Matuško (www.matusko-vina.hr; tel. 020/742-399) at Potomje 5A and Skaramuča (www.dingac-skaramuca.hr; tel. 020/742-211) at at Pijavičino 7. As you approach you’ll see a sign for Dingać and a “tunel” [sic] sign on the right. Turn left and you’ll hit the 400m (1,312-ft.) “tunel,” a dark narrow passage through the mountain that was carved out so vineyard workers wouldn’t have to haul grapes up and down the steep hills. Make a left at the end (slow down before you get there because the tunnel leads straight to a cliff and into the sea) for a trip down a character-building road that affords some of the most beautiful coastal vistas I’ve seen in Croatia. There are many tasting opportunities and apartments for rent the closer you get to the water.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.