Real barbecue done the way devotees like it, from cornbread stuffed with gooey butter pads to fall-off-the-bone ribs proven to stain shirts. There’s no pretense at this tidied-up dive: Order at the counter and eat at picnic-style tables stocked with paper towel rolls and squirt bottles of sauce going from “sweet” to “killer.” Get the standards: Texas brisket, pulled pork, 1/2 chicken, fried catfish, even gizzards. Sandwiches go for $7, but add any 4 sides (like baked beans, black-eye peas, Brunswick stew, or crunchy cole slaw) for $4 more. Or opt for meat by the pound ($11–$14), and take it back to the gang.