Real barbecue done the way devotees like it, from cornbread to fall-off-the-bone ribs proven to stain shirts. There’s no pretense at this tidied-up dive: Order at the counter and eat at picnic-style tables stocked with paper towel rolls and squirt bottles of sauce going from “sweet” to “killer.” Get the standards: Texas brisket, pulled pork, half chicken, fried catfish, even gizzards. Sandwiches come with two sides (like baked beans, black-eyed peas, or Brunswick stew), or order them by the pint, quart, or gallon. You can always opt for meat by the pound and take it back to the gang.