Christini’s, a fixture since 1984, is much more expensive than most Italian places, and it doesn’t permit young children. Those facts qualify it as a special-occasion restaurant and not one at which to suck down a bowl of noodles. Picture a prototypical high-end Italian splurge and you’ve got it: gilded-frame paintings, wandering accordion player, sommelier, lifetime waiters alert to your every twitch. It does pasta well, but guests tend to most praise its meats, particularly the tender osso buco. Dress code is business casual at the least.