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Christini’s, a fixture since 1984, is much more expensive than most Italian places and it doesn’t permit young children. Those facts qualify it as a special occasion restaurant and not one to grab a bowl of spaghetti. Picture a prototypical high-end Italian splurge and you’ve got it: wandering accordion player, sommelier, lifetime waiters alert to your every twitch. It does pasta well, but guests tend to praise its meats, particularly the tender osso buco, above all. Reservations are recommended, and the dress code is business casual at the least.