Lolailo’s Galician cuisine rises above its mundane-appearing strip mall location, and its interior, with its burnished copper bar and Victoria Arduino espresso machine, elevate the mood, too. Both excellent tapas (grilled octopus, piquillo peppers) and mains (lamb, traditional cured ham) are available, but paella is not (unless you’re there for Sun brunch) because this is Spanish cuisine that celebrates delicate ingredients, not piles of rice. Finish with the elogia al vino, a surprising dessert of ice cream, custard, and red wine reduction.