I’m always encouraged when an Indian restaurant is full of young Indian-descended people having a good time. Knowing that fact might help entice you inside an otherwise unappealing location inside a budget hotel just east of Universal. Tabla, recently renovated with white-stone walls to feel a lot like a spa, rises above that. It does the standards well (Tandoori meats with mint chutney, korma, masala, biryani), but also plays around (Chinese and Thai fusion curries with lobster sauce or basil sauce, tangy Manchurian dumplings, samosas filled with melted chocolate, good old pad thai), and the presentation always has a flourish. It’s a safe place to try your first Indian food as well as being a strong place to enjoy it if you already love it.