James and Julie Petrakis have won renown for knowing just when to deploy bacon and in what amount, a talent dear to me, and they have been rewarded by operating one of the city’s most influential dining choices. Expect a beer-friendly yet sophisticated evening where the food is gourmet without pretentiousness. The menu changes seasonally but always features traditional farmhouse meats—in the form of frites, say—and some perennial Southern comfort dishes with an upscale spin, like shrimp and grits with Gruyere biscuits. The Petrakis’ cookbook, on sale here, is all about exploiting the best of Florida’s ingredients.