While not a raging party town, Otavalo has several cozy bars and clubs. It's easy to find a place with a local group playing traditional Andean music. One of my favorite spots is Peña la Jampa (tel. 06/2922-988), on Modesto Jaramillo between Quito and Quiroga, which churns out Spanish rock, merengue, and salsa. Cover is $3 (£2); open 10pm to 3am on Friday and Saturday.

For dancing, check out the Habana Club (tel. 06/2920-493), on Quito and 31 de Octubre. For a more mellow, boho scene, try Casa de Arte Da Pinto (tel. 06/2920-058), Calle Colón 410, between Bolívar and Sucre. This place features creative artwork on the walls, tables, and floors, and serves up pizzas, burgers, beer, and wine.

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