Active Pursuits in Outside Akureyri

In Delvík

Hótel Sóley, Skíðarbraut 18 (tel. 466-3395; www.hotel-soley.com), is the best town agent for bike rental, guided hiking tours on Tröllaskagi Peninsula (including the fabulous 2- to 3-day route from Dalvík west to Hólar), sea kayaking, and horseback riding in the lovely Svarfaðardalur Valley south of town.

Most vacationers in north Iceland save their whale-watching for Húsavík, which has better infrastructure -- more scheduled departures, harborside coffee houses, the whale museum -- but only a marginal advantage in whale sightings. Sea Tours (Sjóferðir) (tel. 863-2555; www.hvalaskodun.is), based in Dalvík, leads 3-hour whale-watching tours (3,900kr/$62/£31 adults, 1,950kr/$31/£16 children 8-12; June 16-July daily 9am, 1:30pm, 8pm; Aug 1-Aug 20 9am, 1:30pm; Apr-June 15 and Aug 21-Sept 9am), and sea-angling trips by arrangement. Whale Watching Eyjafjörður (tel. 867-0000; www.niels.is), based in Hauganes, 30km (19 miles)north of Akureyri and 14km (8 3/4 miles) south of Dalvík, has comparable services.