14km (9 miles) N of Zutphen; 14km (9 miles) E of Apeldoorn

Just across the province line in Overijssel, Deventer (pop. 98,000) began in the 11th century and later became a fountain of religious and intellectual scholarship, with Thomas à Kempis, Erasmus, and Descartes among those who passed through its monastery school of the Brothers of the Common Life. You still see fine medieval and Renaissance buildings along its streets. The town is known for its spicy gingerbread, Deventer koek.

Getting There -- Up to four trains depart every hour from Arnhem via Zutphen. Buses leave every half-hour from Zutphen. By car, take N348 north from Zutphen.

Visitor Information -- VVV Deventer is housed in the Waag (Weigh House) at Brink 56, 7411 BV Deventer (tel. 0900/353-5355; www.vvvdeventer.nl), in the center of town. The office is open Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 5pm, and Sunday and Monday from 1 to 5pm.

What to See & Do

The old center and the IJssel waterfront are dominated by the magnificent Gothic Sint-Lebuïnuskerk (St. Lebuin's Church), Groote Poot (tel. 0570/612-548), named after an 8th-century Saxon missionary. Its 17th-century Hemony carillon is among the finest in Holland. The church is open Monday to Saturday from 11am to 5pm; admission is free. In the neighboring 17th-century Stadhuis (Town Hall), Grote Kerkhof 4 (tel. 0570/649-959), is a large library of medieval books and manuscripts that's well worth a look. It's open Monday to Friday from 10am to 4pm; admission is free.

Objects relating to the area and a marvelous collection of local costumes are exhibited in the Historisch Museum Deventer, Brink 56 (tel. 0570/693-780; www.deventermusea.nl), in the extravagant 1528 Waag (Weigh House) on Deventer's main square. The museum is open Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 5pm, and Sunday and holidays from 2 to 5pm (closed Jan 1, Easter weekend, Pentecost, and Dec 25). Admission is 4€ ($6.40) for adults, 1€ ($1.60) for children ages 2 to 18, and free for children 1 and under.

Organized Tours

Rederij Eureka (tel. 0570/615-914; www.rederij-eureka.nl) operates boat trips on the IJssel from Deventer, going north to Kampen and south to Arnhem.

Nearby Places of Interest

Just north of the pretty little village of Holten, 19km (12 miles) east of Deventer, are the ancient heathland and forests of the Sallandse Heuvelrug (Salland Hills). These rear up all of 76m (250 ft.) at the Holterberg, and mark the spot where the northern glaciers ground to a halt during the last ice age. Part of the area is a protected nature reserve, but you can hike and bike in the rest of it.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.