Zutphen in Overijssel

26km (16 miles) NE of Arnhem; 18km (11 miles) SE of Apeldoorn

A handsome walled medieval town, Zutphen (pop. 47,000) stands on the east bank of the IJssel. From Arnhem, up to four trains arrive every hour and buses every half-hour or so; by car, take N48. For tourist information, visit VVV Zutphen, Stationsplein 39, 7201 MH Zutphen (tel. 0900/269-2888; www.vvvzutphen.nl).

Zutphen's magnificent Gothic Sint-Walburgiskerk (St. Walburga's Church), 's-Gravenhof (tel. 0575/514-178), in the center of town, houses important works of art and the Librije (Library) from 1564. The medieval books and manuscripts here are still in use, chained to reading desks.

Zutphen is a gateway into Gelderland's Achterhoek (Back Corner) district, which stretches east from the IJssel to the German border. Make a rewarding foray by bicycle or car into this tranquil landscape of farms, forests, and châteaux.