Zwolle in Overijssel

28km (17 miles) N of Deventer; 34km (21 miles) N of Apeldoorn

The capital of Overijssel, Zwolle (pop. 117,000) was founded in the 9th century and flourished during the 14th and 15th. In that boom time, churches and civic buildings were enlarged or embellished, and Zwolle became an important religious and cultural center, and a hub of trade. Thomas à Kempis (1379-1471), who wrote the influential Imitation of Christ, was a monk at the Agnietenberg Augustinian monastery north of Zwolle and is buried in the town's Sint-Michaelskerk. The fortified bastions and the distinctive star-shaped moat that makes an island of the old center date from the 17th century.

Getting There -- There are two trains every hour from Deventer and from Apeldoorn. Buses depart about every 30 minutes from Deventer and every hour from Apeldoorn. By car, take N337 north from Deventer; A50 north from Apeldoorn.

Visitor Information -- VVV Zwolle, Grote Kerkplein 15 (entrance on Sassenstraat), 8011 PK Zwolle (tel. 0900/112-2375; www.vvvzwolle.nl), is in the center of town. The office is open Monday from 1 to 5pm, Tuesday to Friday from 10am to 5pm, and Saturday from 10am to 4pm.

Places of Interest

Most of the original city wall has been demolished. But you can follow the walkways along what's left and discover Zwolle's hidden charms. Particularly impressive is the red-brick Sassenpoort (Saxon Gate), Sassenstraat 53 (tel. 038/421-6626), a fortified gateway from 1406 adorned with four octagonal towers. It holds an exhibit on the town's history. It's open Friday from 2 to 5pm, and weekends and holidays from noon to 5pm; admission is 2€ ($3.20) for adults, 1€ ($1.60) for children ages 5 to 12, and free for children 4 and under.

Affectionately dubbed the Peperbustoren (Pepperpot Tower), the restored tower (1487) of the massive Onze-Lieve-Vrouwbasiliek (Basilica of Our Lady), Ossenmarkt (tel. 038/421-4894; www.olvbasiliek-zwolle.org), west of the Grote Markt, is Zwolle's primary landmark. Climb it to treat yourself to wide views over the town and the IJssel valley. Inside the 15th-century church are interesting medieval relics and statues. The church is open May to October Monday from 1:30 to 4:30pm, and Tuesday to Saturday from 11:30am to 4:30pm; and November to April Monday to Saturday from 1:30 to 3:30pm. Admission is 2€ ($3.60) for adults, 1€ ($1.60) for children ages 5 to 12, and free for children 4 and under.