Bookstore
Available as paperback
and as e-book.
Palm Springs Attractions
Here's the Rub: Two Bunch Palms Desert Spa
Since the Native American Cahuilla learned how great it felt to soak in the Coachella Valley's natural hot springs, this desert has drawn stressed-out masses seeking relaxation. My number-one choice is heavenly Two Bunch Palms. Posh yet intimate, this spiritual sanctuary in Desert Hot Springs (about 20 min. north of Palm Springs) has been drawing weary city dwellers since Chicago mobster Al Capone hid out here in the 1930s. Two Bunch Palms later became a playground for the movie community, but today it's a friendly and informal haven, with 56 acres of renowned spa services, well-appointed bungalows on lush grounds, and lagoons of steaming mineral water. Float in serenity at the Grotto, which consists of small mineral pools surrounded by tall, tranquil greenery. Service is famously discreet, and legions of return guests will attest that the outstanding spa treatments (including 12 varieties of massage, mud baths, body wraps, facials, salt rubs, water therapy) and therapeutic waters are what make the luxury of Two Bunch Palms irresistible. To maintain the relaxed atmosphere, guests are requested to speak softly, just above a whisper. Loud, argumentative guests will be asked to leave and denied access in the future. Room rates run from $225 to $425 (including breakfast) in high season, with substantial discounts midweek and off-season. Spa treatments cost between $80 and $185 per hour, and multiday money-saving room/spa packages run from $1,049 to $1,379 for two, with double occupancy. There is a $10 resort fee. Other packages may be available. The quiet dining room serves delicious lunches and dinners, with a full bar and wine available. No one 17 and under is allowed. The resort is off Palm Drive (Gene Autry Trail) at 67-425 Two Bunch Palms Trail in Desert Hot Springs (tel. 877/839-3609 or 760/329-8791; www.twobunchpalms.com).
Sweet Desert Treat: The Coachella Valley Date Gardens
In a splendid display of wishful thinking and clever engineering, the Coachella Valley has grown into a rich agricultural region, known internationally for grapefruit, figs, and grapes -- and dates. Entrepreneurs, fascinated with Arabian lore and fueled by the Sahara-like conditions of the desert around Indio, planted these date palm groves in the 1920s. Launched with a few parent trees imported from the Middle East, the groves now produce 95% of the world's date crop.
Farmers hand-pollinate the trees, and the resulting fruit is bundled in wind-protective paper while still on the tree, which makes an odd sight indeed. You'll see them along Hwy. 111 through Indio, locally known as the "Date Highway."
The most picturesque place in the valley to sample dates is Oasis Date Gardens, 59111 Hwy. 111 (tel. 800/827-8017 or 760/399-5665; www.oasisdate.com), started in 1912 with nine Moroccan trees and now one of the nation's largest commercial date groves. It's a 40-minute drive from downtown Palm Springs -- but there's a lot to do here. Picnic tables dot an inviting lawn, videos illustrate the history and art of date cultivation, and there's a cool palm arboretum and cactus exhibit. Many varieties of dates are laid out for free tasting. Oasis also sells date shakes, ice cream, date pie by the slice, homemade chili and sandwiches, and gourmet food gifts from all over the Southwest. Open Monday to Saturday (except Christmas) from 8am to 5pm.
- Cooking Class
Palm Springs Aerial Tramway
To gain a bird's-eye perspective on the Coachella Valley, take this 14-minute ascent up nearly 5,900 feet to the upper slopes of Mount San Jacinto. While the Albert Frey-designed boarding stations retain their 1960s ski-lodge feel, the Swiss funicular cars are sleekly modern and… - Tour
Palm Springs Windmill Tours
An astonishing forest of towering white "windmills" (nearly 1,000 of them today, but destined to dwindle as efficiency improves) is a landmark that, for many, is synonymous with the Coachella Valley. This 75-minute tour, which leaves from a convenient spot about 10 minutes north of… - Gardens & Museum
Shields Date Garden
Actually in Indio, about a 25-minute drive east of Palm Springs, Shields is one of those corny old-fashioned roadside attractions you wish America had more of. It has been cultivating dates since 1924, when this part of the desert was pretty much only good for sand and earthquakes.… - Zoo/Aquarium
The Living Desert Zoo & Gardens
The Living Desert (about 16 miles southeast of downtown Palm Springs) has been around since 1970, when it was established to bring people closer to the type of animals and plants that resort development was displacing. But these days, it has stepped up its game to meet the standards… - Gym/Spa
The Spa at Séc-he
No one's quite sure which springs gave Palm Springs its name, but historians consistently guess it had to do with the area'a natural hot springs, which Native Americans were using long before Europeans showed up to settle the area in the 1800s. Starting more than a century ago, a…$$Downtown
Palm Springs Shopping
Downtown Palm Springs revolves around North Palm Canyon Drive; many art galleries, souvenir shops, and restaurants are here, along with a couple of large-scale hotels and shopping centers. This wide one-way boulevard is designed for pedestrians, with many businesses set back from the street (don't be shy about poking around the little courtyards you'll encounter). On Thursday nights from 6 to 10pm, the blocks between Amado and Baristo roads are transformed into VillageFest, a town street fair. Handicrafts vendors and aromatic food booths vie for attention with wacky street performers and even wackier locals shopping at the fresh-produce stalls.
The northern section of Palm Canyon, known for collectibles, is touted as the Antique and Heritage Gallery District. Check out Antiques Collector, 798 N. Palm Canyon Dr. (tel. 760/323-4443), a discriminating mall-style store with 35 dealers displaying wares that range from vintage linens to handmade African crafts, to prized Bakelite jewelry. Open hours are 10am to 4:30pm.
Serious shoppers head south to Palm Desert, with the delicious excesses of El Paseo, a cornucopia of high-rent boutiques, salons, and upscale restaurants reminiscent of Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, along with more than a dozen major shopping malls.
- Antiques
Dazzles
If you're looking for unusual and collectible 20th-century item for your shelves, cabinets, or wrists, Dazzles is a find, and more than a few regular Palm Springs vacationers make it their first stop. Tucked into the courtyard of an unlikely midcentury apartment building that's all…$$Design District - Antiques
Victoria's Attic Antique Mall
Victoria's is a collection of some 30-odd vendors who sell under the same roof, which guarantees that the pickings are varied enough to appeal to most tastes, from traditional silver sets to midcentury-modern sets of cocktail tumblers. It's light on furniture—this is more about…$$Design District
Palm Springs Nightlife
Every month a different club or disco is the hot spot in the Springs, and the best way to tap into the trend is by consulting the Desert Guide, the Bottom Line, or one of the many other free newsletters available from area hotels and merchants. VillageFest turns Palm Canyon Drive into an outdoor party every Thursday night. Below, I've described a couple of the enduring arts and entertainment attractions around the desert resorts.
The Fabulous Palm Springs Follies, at the Plaza Theatre, 128 S. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs (tel. 760/327-0225; www.psfollies.com), a vaudeville-style show filled with highly polished and lavishly costumed production numbers reminiscent of the Ziegfeld days, is a long-running hit in the historic Plaza Theatre in the heart of town. With a cast of retired showgirls, singers, dancers, and comedians, the revue is hugely popular. In addition, there are guest stars such as Susan Anton, The Crystals, and Leslie Gore and the Four Preps. The season runs November through May; call for exact schedule. Tickets range from $50 to $95. Matinees are at 1:30pm, evening shows at 7pm.
The McCallum Theatre for the Performing Arts, 73000 Fred Waring Dr., Palm Desert (tel. 866/889-2787 or 760/340-2787), offers the only cultural high road around. Frequent symphony performances feature visiting virtuosos such as conductor Seiji Ozawa or violinist Itzhak Perlman. Other recent offerings have included musicals such as Hairspray and Chicago; comedy by Norm Crosby, Tim Conway, and Kathy Griffin; and musical shows such as A Tribute to Glenn Miller, with the Tex Beneke Orchestra, and Sinatra Sings, featuring Frank Jr. Call for upcoming events.
Casinos
Native American gaming has been part of desert life for years now, but recently the industry seems to have joined the major leagues, with a professionalism and polish that have given rise to a "virtual Vegas."
The best-known and most centrally located casino is the Spa Resort Casino in the heart of Palm Springs. Gaming rooms that were once an afterthought now share the spotlight with the hot springs. Attendees at the hotel's conference center on business can often be found playing hooky at one or both.
You can't help but be impressed by the brilliant neon fireballs of the Agua Caliente Casino, northeast of Palm Springs at 32-250 Bob Hope Dr., Rancho Mirage (tel. 888/999-1995 or 760/321-2000; www.hotwatercasino.com), down the street from the Westin Mission Hills. The new hotel has 340 rooms, a 10,000-square-foot spa, three restaurants, and a 2,000-seat showroom; call tel. 866/923-7244 for reservations.
The former Trump 29, now run by the owning Indian tribe, is called Spotlight 29, 46-200 Harrison Place, Coachella (tel. 866/377-6829 or 760/775-5566; www.spotlight.com), about a half-hour from Palm Springs. Although the land is tribal owned, this sophisticated complex is Vegas all the way, from its big-name shows and high-roller players club to its 24-hour fine dining and all-you-can-eat prime-rib buffets.
Other tribal casino/resorts flank the valley, with the Morongo Casino, Resort and Spa to the northwest, at 49500 Seminole Dr., Cabazon, CA 92230 (tel. 888/MORONGO [667-6646]; www.morongocasinoresort.com), with 310 rooms, 32 suites, and six casitas by the pool. Four restaurants, food court, and full-service salon and spa augment the three nightclubs, not to mention the tables.
