You’ll have to use your elbows to get in at meal time, but Tast Unión welcomes drinkers and diners at all hours. Like its sister tapas bar Tast Avenidas (Av. Comte de Sallent, 11; tel.  97-110-15-40), it specializes in creative tapas, crafted by executive chef Patxi Castellano, that use seasonal produce and the catch of the day. His version of squid stuffed with gulas (imitation baby eels) and sabrosada was a big winner at the national Spanish tapas competition. The meltingly soft pan-fried duck liver is also popular. Don’t worry if you can’t get to the bar; tapas are also passed on trays, with plates color-coded to indicate the price.