Planning a trip to Panama City

Getting There

By Plane

All international flights, except those from Costa Rica, land at the newly expanded Tocumen International Airport (PTY; tel. 238-2700), located 21km (13 miles) from Panama City. Flights from Costa Rica to Panama City land at Albrook Airport, and there is direct service from San José to David and Bocas del Toro airports.

There are ATP visitors' kiosks inside Tocumen's arrival terminal (one in baggage claim and another through the Customs gate), with information about Panama City and some brochures; it's recommended, though, that travelers research accommodations and make reservations before their arrival because hotels are often booked.

The unit of currency in Panama is the U.S dollar, so for those coming from the United States there is no need to exchange money. Euros can be exchanged at the Banco Nacional (tel. 238-4161; Mon-Fri 8am-5pm and Sat 10am-3pm) in the arrival terminal; this bank also has ATMs in the airport terminal.

A licensed taxi from Tocumen to Panama City costs $25 (£13), plus toll fees for a total of about $30 (£15). Many hotels offer free scheduled pickup and drop-off service, or you can arrange transportation for a cheaper price -- inquire when booking at your hotel. Another option for taxis is with Easy Travel Panama (tel. 6617-4122; www.easytravelpanama.net). They offer high-quality vehicles and bilingual drivers, and cost about the same as regular taxis ($40/£20) for one or two people and $50 (£25) for three or four people, tolls included, but you must reserve ahead of time. Easy Travel offers personalized ground transportation anywhere; contact them for prices for long-distance destinations (the beaches outside of Panama City, for example).

All rental-car agencies have desks in the arrival terminal and are open 24 hours a day.

Domestic flights, flights to Costa Rica, and charter flights to the 150 or so airstrips located on Panama's islands and remote jungle areas leave from Marcos A. Gelabert Airport (PAC), which is more commonly referred to as Albrook Airport (tel. 501-9271). Albrook is located northwest of Cerro Ancón (Ancón Hill) off Avenue Omar Torrijos Herrera, near the canal. A taxi costs $2 to $3 to downtown Panama City and takes about 20 minutes. There are usually taxis waiting at the airport, although you can also cross the street and hail a taxi for a shorter wait. Rental-car agencies here are generally open from 8am to 6:30pm. Each company offers a key drop-box for customers who need to return a vehicle when rental desks aren't open.

Tip: Travelers who arrive at Tocumen Airport and plan to head directly to another destination in Panama via a domestic flight must transfer to Albrook Airport, about a 45-minute drive (or longer during rush hour) from Tocumen. A taxi costs about $30 (£15).

By Bus

If arriving by bus, you'll be dropped off at the Albrook bus terminal near the Albrook airport and shopping center. A taxi to town costs $2 to $3 (£1-£1.50) and takes 10 to 15 minutes. A taxi to the Gamboa area costs $20 (£10) and takes 30 minutes.

By Car

Travelers arriving to Panama City by car will do so via the Pan-American Highway from the west, first crossing the canal on the Puente de las Américas (Bridge of the Americas) and arriving in the Balboa district of the city. Follow signs to Avenida Balboa to reach downtown. Drivers headed to Panama City from the west may also use the new Puente Centenario (Centennial Bridge), which crosses the canal near Paraíso, and avoid traffic congestion on the Bridge of the Americas. The road that crosses this bridge is also known as Vía Benedicto XVI, named after Pope Benedict XVI.

The Pan-American Highway continues east toward Colombia and ends in Yaviza, in the Darién Region. It is not possible to reach Colombia by car, and at this book's publication there were no ferries for vehicles to Colombia, although there is talk that this service might be reinstated soon.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Amador Causeway This man-made peninsula on the south end of town is a popular recreation and dining area that provides sweeping views of the city skyline, and a reliable breeze that is a cool tonic on hot Panamanian days. It is also the site of several monstrous condominium and marina developments, as well as the new Frank Gehry museum dedicated to biodiversity.

Balboa/Cerro Ancón/Albrook These are three quiet residential neighborhoods located within the former Canal Zone. The domestic airport, Albrook is here, occupying what once was the U.S. Air Force base, and many young professionals have moved into the "reverted area" for its trademark, sturdy wooden houses with wide verandas and lush foliage. Cerro Ancón hill is the most salient landmark here, offering a 360-degree view of the city and the canal from the lookout point up high.

The neighborhoods El Chorrillo, Santa Ana, and Chinatown, on the eastern side of Cerro Ancón, are dangerous and not safe to visit, especially at night.

Calidonia/La Exposición The shoreline that fronts these two neighborhoods is the future site of many of Panama City's most ambitious high-rise developments. There are many budget (and downright scary) lodging options here, but low-cost lodging can also be found in better neighborhoods like El Cangrejo. Avenida Balboa, which hugs the shore, is an excellent place for an afternoon stroll.

Casco Viejo/San Felipe Panama's loveliest neighborhood was once a collection of homes built during the late 1800s and early 1900s, before it became fashionable to live elsewhere in the city. The historical barrio, now revitalized with public and private funds, is undergoing a thorough renovation that prompted UNESCO to designate it a World Heritage Site. If you have time to visit just one neighborhood in Panama City, make it this one.

The Coastline: Marbella/Punta Paitilla/Punta Pacífica Residential towers and shopping malls are the identifying characteristics of this area, where there's a confluence of Panama's newly moneyed, illegally moneyed, and recently retired residents living in glitz-and-glass high-rises overlooking the sea.

El Cangrejo/Area Bancaria/Bella Vista These three neighborhoods border each other, but they are so compact that they could be considered part of the "upscale zone." Older El Cangrejo has a "lived-in" look and hilly streets that lend this neighborhood charm. Just to the south, the Area Bancaria (Financial District), in addition to El Cangrejo, is where most travelers feel happiest lodging, as everything is within walking distance: top restaurants, shopping, and nightlife. Dozens of trendy eateries are concentrated in Bella Vista east of Avenida Frederico Boyd -- the reason why Bella Vista is sometimes referred to as the Zona Rosa.

Panama Viejo On the eastern edge of the city are the ruins of Panama Viejo, the first settlement in Panama that later burned to the ground. Many visit as part of a guided tour, but the area also has a pleasant walking/jogging path along the shore and a self-guided interpretive trail that winds through the ruins.

Learning Vacations

Spanish-Language Programs

If you're moving to Panama, or if you plan to stay for an extended time, you'll need to pick up the local lingo. The two top language-institute options offer very different programs for different kinds of people. Classes are either one-on-one or in groups -- obviously the keen traveler with time restraints will want private classes.

Spanish Panama is a Canadian-directed school with certified bilingual professors, offering crash courses, private classes either at the school or in your hotel, residence, or business; and a month-long program that includes excursions around town to place yourself in real-life situations where Spanish is necessary. They also have cultural excursions and Latin dance classes. The Spanish Panama school classrooms are divided units within an old apartment building, and the ambience is folksy and very friendly. They offer three housing options that are suitable for all types. First, there are homestays with Panamanian families. Second, their Carmen's Realty finds furnished apartments in the area (basic, at $500/£250 a month, to luxury, at $1,300/£650 a month) that can be rented weekly and monthly. Finally, Anita's Inn hostel, on the second floor above the school, has shared rooms for $10 (£5), and a few private rooms for $15 to $30 (£7.50-£15) per night; most have shared bathrooms. The hostel hosts fun but mature guests who are serious about learning. Their "Just the Classes" one-on-one program is 16 hours per week for $199 (£100), and you decide when and where. Their month-long program costs $775 (£388), with around a total of 50 hours of instruction. Spanish Panama is centrally located on Calle 2a Norte, off Vía Argentina (tel. 213-3121; www.spanishpanama.com).

Your second option is ILISA Language School, with offices in the more austere environment of the so-called "City of Knowledge," the old U.S. Army base in Clayton, which is being renovated as a center for academic organizations. ILISA is a Costa Rican company and a newcomer to Panama; they have group and private classes in a more polished, corporate-style classroom. Their four-person classes are the most popular, and run from 8am to noon, with afternoon activities like coffee chats and excursions; their four-person "Plus" course is the same but with an additional 2-hour private tutoring session in the afternoon. Private, 4-hour lessons cost $655 (£328) for 5 days; $885 (£443) for 6 hours a day. Groups of four cost $430 (£215) per person for 20 hours of instruction per week. ILISA offers homestays, furnished apartment rentals, and two nearby guesthouses with shared rooms starting at $14 (£7) a night, and private double rooms for $45 (£23). The school is at Calle Gonzalo Crance 8 (tel. 317-1011, or 800/454-7248 in the U.S. and Canada; www.ilisa.com).

Fast Facts

American Express -- American Express Travel Services has an office on Calle 50 and Calle 59, (tel. 269-2971 or 800/528-4800 for 24-hr service in the United States). This office provides traveler's checks and replacement cards, along with other standard services. To report lost or stolen traveler's checks within Panama, call the numbers above, or try 1/336-393-1111, American Express's international collect-call service.

Bookstores -- Exedra Books, on the corner of Vía Brasil and Vía España (tel. 264-4252; www.exedrabooks.com; Mon-Fri 10am-8pm and Sat 10am-7pm) is the top resource for English-language books, with dozens of titles, a cafe, a reading area, a children's corner, and Internet access. If you're spending extended time in Panama, you may order books on Exedra's website and have them delivered for free for orders over $25 (£13). The Smithsonian's small but excellent Corotu Bookstore, at the Earl S. Tupper Research and Conference Center on Roosevelt Avenue in Ancón (tel. 212-8000; www.stri.org; Mon-Fri 10am-4:30pm) offers a comprehensive collection of books about Panama's flora, fauna, history, and culture, including large-format photo books, maps, and gifts. El Hombre de la Mancha (www.bookshombredelamancha.com) is a bookstore cafe with a small selection of English-language fiction and the best Panama City map in town. They have locations in the Multiplaza, Multicentro, Albrook Mall, and the Centro Comercial Camino de Crucez Boulevar El Dorado; or try Calle 52 at Avenida Federico Boyd (tel. 263-6218). The Gran Morrison chain (Vía España at Calle 51 Este: tel. 269-2211; Punta Paitilla: tel. 264-5266), has a limited English-language book section and a variety of U.S. magazines such as People and Time.

Camera Repair -- Electric Caribe, located at Vía España in front of the Bon Bini cafe (tel. 223-0205 or 264-7451; www.electricaribe.com), can help with all your camera needs.

Dentists & Doctors -- Panama City has no shortage of English-speaking dentists or doctors, most of whom trained in the U.S. For a list of dentists or doctors, contact your embassy.

Drugstores -- Called farmacias in Spanish, drugstores are plentiful in Panama City. For 24-hour service, visit a branch of El Rey supermarket, the most central of which is on Vía España (tel. 223-1243). Another reliable pharmacy is Farmacias Arrocha (tel. 360-4000), with locations at Vía España in front of El Panama Hotel, Vía Argentina, and Punta Paitilla.

Emergencies -- For fire, dial tel. 103; for police dial 104; for an ambulance, dial Seguro Social at tel. 502-2532, or Cruz Roja at tel. 228-2187.

Express Mail Services -- Many international courier and express-mail services have offices in Panama City, including UPS (tel. 269-9222) in Obarrio (near El Cangrejo) at Calle 53 E in the Edificio Torre Swiss Bank; Fed Ex (tel. 800-1122) on Calle 3 in Costa del Oeste; Mail Boxes Etc, a one-stop service with locations on Avenida Balboa in Paitilla in the Marisol Building, no. 1, next to McDonald's (tel. 264-7038), on Vía España, next to Niko's Café in the Financial District (tel. 214-4620), and in the Multiplaza Mall (tel. 302-4162).

Eyeglasses -- Eyeglass shops are referred to as ópticas. Optica López, in Plaza Paitilla (tel. 269-0358), and Natural Vision, in the Multicentro Mall (tel. 208-2648), are dependable chains with other locations throughout the city. Both eyeglass shops offer repairs, exams, and name-brand eyewear.

Hospitals -- Many Panamanian doctors receive their medical degrees in the U.S.; therefore, many speak English. The best hospitals in Panama City are: Centro Médico Paitilla, at Calle 53 and Avenida Balboa (tel. 265-8800); Clínica Hospital San Fernando, at Avenida Central España (tel. 305-6300); Hospital Nacional, at Avenida Cuba between Calle 38 and Calle 39 (tel. 207-8100 or 207-8102); and Hospital Punta Pacífica, at Calle 53 in Bella Vista (tel. 204-8000). Punta Pacífica is the newest and most advanced hospital in the country and is affiliated with Johns Hopkins University.

Internet Access -- All hotels recommended in this guide have at least one computer with an Internet connection; some have wireless service in their lobby. Service in guest rooms is usually at an additional, and often expensive, price. Or try the best Internet cafe in town, ClaroCOM, at Avenida Eusebio A. Morales and Avenida Vía Veneto (tel. 200-0015; Mon-Sat 8am-10:30pm and Sun 9am-8:30pm), with free wireless service if you have a laptop, no matter how long you need to be connected, as well as plentiful computers. Or try Esc@pate Internet cafe, on Vía Argentina close to Avenida España (tel. 263-0616). There are Internet cafes throughout El Cangrejo and the Area Bancaria as well as the el Dorado neighborhood northwest of downtown Panama, all charging about $1 to $1.50 (50p-75p) per hour.

Laundry & Dry Cleaning -- Lavandería Diamond Dry Cleaners Plus (tel. 213-2216) is at Calle J in El Cangrejo. Lavandería Flash (tel. 213-8092) is at Vía Argentina. SU-PERC-KLIN is in Bella Vista next to Supermercado Riba-Smith (tel. 225-7869), and in El Cangrejo in front of the Einstein statue at Calle F and Calle L -1 (tel. 223-5666).

Maps -- ATP's information desk at the Tocumen Airport offers a general map of Panama City, but the best available is Mapi, produced by bookstore El Hombre de la Mancha and available at their stores or at the Gran Morrison stores. This map is also available at gift shops in major hotels. The tourism publication Focus has a fold-out map that is accurate but does not show all street names; this publication can be found at hotels and other tourism-oriented shops and restaurants.

Newspapers & Magazines -- You'll find the international English version of the Miami Herald at drugstores such as Gran Morrison and at supermarkets such as El Rey. Also, many hotels carry copies. Most sell English-language publications like People, Time, and Newsweek.

For magazines about Panama tourism and real estate, the quarterly magazine Panama 980 provides decent information. The Panama Planner also provides basic country and tourism information, as does the quarterly publication Focus, which also has quite a bit of real estate information. Most of these publications can be obtained at the airport or your hotel.

Photographic Needs -- Few photo shops develop slides -- really, you'd do better waiting until you return home to do this. Kodak can be found inside El Rey supermarkets or at Calle San Francisco between Calles 74 and 75 (tel. 270-3333). You can also try FotoDigital at Calle 50 (tel. 263-3000), or in the Multiplaza Mall (tel. 302-1100).

Police -- Dial tel. 104 or 316-0080.

Post Office -- Postal service is scarce in Panama City; your best bet is to ask your hotel to mail something for you, or try Mail Boxes Etc. The central post office (Correos y Telégrafos) is open Monday to Friday 8am to 4pm and Saturday 8am to 1pm, and is located on Avenida Central in front of the Mercado de Mariscos (tel. 212-7680).

Restrooms -- Restrooms, called baños, are marked hombres or caballeros for men, and damas or mujeres for women. There are few public restrooms in Panama City; your best bet is a hotel lobby or fast-food restaurant.

Safety -- Panama law requires that foreigners carry their passport with them at all times, but play it safe and carry a photocopy of only the opening pages and entrance stamp or tourist card. Leave all valuables and extra cash in your hotel. As Latin American cities go, Panama City is very safe for foreign travelers who stay out of bad neighborhoods such as Calidonia, Curundú, El Chorrillo, and Santa Ana. Chinatown is dangerous day and night as well. As in any major urban area, use common sense when it comes to safekeeping valuables -- for example, don't put your wallet in your back pocket. Money and other valuables are best carried in hard-to-reach places, like deep pockets or a money belt, but purses are fine for women. Keep an eye out for suspicious characters who linger too close or follow too closely. Also, consider taking money out of ATMs during the day to avoid stepping out from a brightly lit cashpoint into darkness. Scams are not common here; muggings and purse-snatchings happen, but not frequently. If you park a car on the street, do not leave any valuables inside that could attract a thief, even if you park in a guarded parking lot.

Taxes -- All hotels charge a 10% accommodations tax, which may or may not already be included in the published rate. Restaurants charge 5% tax on all consumption, and they often sneak in a 10% service charge for a tip -- check your bill carefully before paying. A tourist card costs $5 (£2.50) and is purchased when checking in for your flight or when crossing the border.

Telephones -- There are no city or area codes to dial from within Panama; use the country code, 507, only when dialing a Panama City number from outside Panama. Cellphone numbers begin with 6. All cellphone numbers listed in this guide already include the 6 prefix.

Time Zone -- Panama is on Eastern Standard Time (the same as New York or Montreal), and 5 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time. Panama does not change the hour for daylight saving time, during which the time in Panama coincides with that of the Central Time Zone in the States. Note: Panama is 1 hour ahead of Costa Rica and the rest of Central America.

Useful Telephone Numbers -- For national directory assistance, dial tel. 102; to reach an international operator, dial tel. 106; for the time, dial tel. 105.

Water -- The water in Panama City is perfectly safe to drink. Nonetheless, travelers with highly sensitive digestive tracts might want to stick to bottled water.

Weather -- The year-round temperature in Panama City is a humid 85°F to 90°F (29°C-32°C) during the day, and around 70°F (21°C) at night. The rainy season is from April to December, with torrential rain showers -- however, rain occurs during the afternoon, and mornings are generally clear and sunny.

Getting Around

By Taxi

Taxis are inexpensive, safe, and plentiful -- except when it is raining during rush hour and it seems that every worker heading to, or leaving, work is trying to flag one down. Quite often, a taxi will stop for another passenger if he or she is headed in your general direction, but the driver will usually deliver you to your destination first. Taxis charge $1.25 to $2 (65p-£1) for most destinations within Panama City, but confirm the price beforehand as the "zones" that taxi drivers use for price reference are vague. Taxis from the city center to the Amador Causeway will run you about $5 (£2.50). Unscrupulous drivers may try to charge you more, especially to and from the Amador Causeway. Tip: Some taxis work directly for a hotel, and rip off guests by charging up to three times the going fare -- and they're not going to budge when you contest the fare. These are the taxis that await guests directly at the front door. Simply walk out to the street and flag a taxi down for cheaper fare.

On Foot

Panama City is not easy to navigate on foot because of its interweaving streets, streets that are not signed, and lack of recognizable landmarks for visitors. Also, many neighborhoods aren't within walking distance of each other. To get around without a fuss, take a cab.

On the other hand, the best (really only) way to see Casco Viejo is on foot so that you can savor the neighborhood's colonial architecture, visit a museum, and stop for lunch. Avenida Balboa has a long seafront walkway that starts near Punta Paitilla and ends at the Mercado de Marisco (the fish market). The Calzada de Amador (Amador Causeway) was designed for walking, jogging, and bicycling, with some 6.5km (4 miles) of landscaped pedestrian trails.

By Bus

The traveler in Panama City will feel more comfortable getting around by taxi than by bus. There are no printed bus routes, but the name of the bus's destination should appear on a sign in the front window. Panama City is supposedly overhauling its public transportation system, as the city's famous "Red Devils" are replaced by a modern fleet of coaches, but these plans have been in the works for years without any visible progress. Red Devils are retired U.S. school buses that drivers individualize with electric graffiti art, flashing lights, and other knickknacks, and they are driven until the wheels fall off. Though emblematic of the funky, vibrant culture that makes Panama what it is, Red Devils are often in the news for crashing and other unsafe practices, and "devil" drivers are notorious for their recklessness.

By Car

You do not need or want a rental car while visiting just Panama City, considering how economical taxis are. Admittedly, there are a lot of destinations and attractions outside the city, and independent travelers who desire a vehicle to see the sights on their own will have better luck renting at one of the airport terminals and heading straight out of the city on a well-signed thoroughfare. Pay attention to every sign on the road because some road signs are small and easy to miss; other times there is no "official" sign for a turnoff, but a couple of commercial signs with the town name, giving you only a vague idea of where you are. Travelers who have a basic command of Spanish and who can ask for directions will have the easiest time. Bring a good map and ask the rental agency exactly how to get to your destination.

There are car rental kiosks at both the Tocumen and Albrook airports (car rental agencies at Tocumen are open 24 hr.; Albrook rental agencies are open 8am-6:30pm), and each agency has a few locations in town. If you are renting a car to visit outlying areas such as the canal, Portobelo, or the Panamanian interior, have your rental agency show you, in detail, the quickest and most efficient route to your destination.

Tips for Drivers in Panama City -- If for some reason you must drive through town, consider the following advice:

• Prepare for abrupt stops when cars turn into or cross your lane, especially on wide avenues such as Balboa. You as a driver should be aggressive in this sense, too, and nose your way into oncoming traffic when making a left turn or merging into traffic -- other cars will slow down for you, but this is a maneuver that is best learned from watching other drivers.
• Many streets are unsigned or not named, and often a one-way street is only advertised by the fact that all parked cars face one direction. First-time drivers in Panama City make a lot of U-turns and last-minute decisions, so don't lose patience.
• Keep cool under pressure and don't panic if an unexpected turn takes you into a spooky neighborhood. Have an open map at hand, keep your doors locked, and pull over if you need to find a route to get you headed in the right direction again.
• Cross walks in Panama City are poorly marked to non-existent, so most pedestrians J-walk (or rather run) across the street when the coast is more or less clear. Keep this in mind if you'll be driving in Panama City because the last thing you want is to have your trip ruined by an unfortunate accident.
• Do not leave anything inside a parked vehicle.
• On some busy streets, a raggedy, self-styled "parking guard" might ask to watch your car. Pay him or her around 50¢ (25p). Some parking guards will demand payment of $1 or $2 (50p-£1) before you leave your car in neighborhoods such as Casco Viejo or Bella Vista.