Planning a trip to Panama

Staying Safe

Panama is one of the safest countries in Latin America, with a few exceptions. The ragged port town of Colón is dangerous day and night, except in the Colón 2000 cruise-ship and Zona Libre (Free Zone) areas. The northeastern region of the Darién Province near the Caribbean Sea is dangerous due to incidents of kidnapping, murder, and drug-running by Colombian guerrilla and paramilitary groups who have crossed the border into Panama. Other regions of the Darién are home to several lodges that are in a no-risk area.

Panama City is safe, with low to moderate crime occurring mostly in neighborhoods such as El Chorrillo and Curundú; these neighborhoods should be avoided if possible. El Chorrillo surrounds Casco Viejo, to which visitors should take a taxi instead of walking. Panama City is a modern, clean city, yet a very visible poor underclass lives in run-down neighborhoods that feature prominently in the city's west side. As with any urban area, visitors should be alert, exercise caution when taking money out of an ATM, and not walk around with large sums of cash.

Visitors headed for the beach should be extremely cautious when swimming or surfing in both the Pacific and Caribbean oceans, where there are strong riptides. Often there are no warning signs; and tour guides rarely advise their clients of dangerous areas. Remember, no matter what happens, stay calm, and swim parallel to the shore and out of the current.

Illegal drugs are easy to buy in Panama, but stiff penalties apply to anyone caught with illegal substances.

For current security information about Panama, check the U.S. Department of State's Travel Advisory website at http://travel.state.gov.

Regions in Brief

Panama, an S-shaped isthmus that measures little more than 77,700 sq. km (30,000 sq. miles), is just slightly smaller than South Carolina -- yet there is a huge diversity of landscapes and microclimates within this tiny nation. Costa Rica borders Panama to the west, Colombia to the east, and, in what can be vexing to the traveler with no sense of direction, the Pacific Ocean to the south and the Caribbean Sea to the north. Because Panama City faces southeast, travelers are presented with the uncommon view of the sun rising over the Pacific. At its narrowest point, Panama measures just 50km (31 miles) wide.

Besides the isthmus, Panama is made up of than 1,500 islands, many of them uninhabited and cloaked in thick vegetation. These islands are grouped into four regions. In the Caribbean Sea there are the Bocas del Toro and San Blas archipelagos; in the Pacific Ocean, Las Perlas Archipelago in the Gulf of Panama, and Coiba Island and its accompanying tiny islands in the Gulf of Chiriquí.

Panama is home to two mountain ranges, the Serranía del Darién in the east, and the Cordillera Central in the west, the latter of which is home to the highest peak in the country, the dormant Volcán Barú, at 3,475m (11,400 ft.). This is the only place in Panama where you are likely to experience brisk temperatures -- the rest of the country averages 75°F to 85°F (24°C-29°C) year-round.

Panama is a centralized nation, with about a third of its population of 4 million living in Panama City; in comparison, the population of the second-largest city, Colón, is approximately 200,000 residents. The country is divided into nine provincias, or provinces, three provincial-level indigenous territories called comarcas, and two sub-provincial comarcas. For the most part, sections of this guide are divided into general regions rather than provinces.

Panama City, the Canal & Surroundings

Beyond the urban streets of Panama City, the Canal Zone is characterized by a species-rich, dense tropical rainforest, hundreds of rivers, mangrove swamps, the Pacific Ocean coastline, and Las Perlas Archipelago in the Gulf of Panama. Thanks to the Panama Canal and its reliance on the local watershed, the rainforest in this area is protected as a series of national parks and reserves (Chagres, Soberanía, Sherman, and Camino de Cruces, for example). Visitors to Panama City are often surprised at how quickly they can reach these parks and surround themselves in steamy jungle and view a dazzling array of both North and South American birds and other wildlife. Near the city, the shore consists mostly of mudflats; visitors seeking beaches must head to the islands or drive about 1 hour southwest. 

Central Panama

Considered the country’s cultural heartland, Central Panama in this book covers Panama City beaches, the Coclé Province, and the Azuero Peninsula. In Coclé, city dwellers flock to popular El Valle de Antón, a verdant mountain hideaway located in the crater of an extinct volcano (1,173m/3,850 ft. at its highest peak). The area is blessed with a mild climate that is a welcome respite from the humid lowlands. Southwest of the city, the Pacific Coast is another popular weekend getaway for its beaches and a few all-inclusive resorts. Farther southwest, the Azuero Peninsula has been largely deforested, but it is still a popular destination for its traditional festivals, handicrafts, and Spanish villages whose architecture dates back to the medieval era. The beaches along the peninsula are blissfully uncrowded any time of year. 

Bocas del Toro Archipelago

In the northwest corner of the country, near the border with Costa Rica, Bocas del Toro is one of the more popular and easily accessed Caribbean destinations, with a wide variety of hotels and amenities. The region is characterized by an eclectic mix of indigenous groups, Spanish descendants, Afro-Caribbeans, and, more recently, American expats; it is also one of the wettest areas of Panama. Outside of brief dry seasons in September/October and February/March, the rain is constant, so bring an umbrella or waterproof gear. Although the area has a few beautiful beaches, it also has dangerous riptides; visitors come more to scuba dive, snorkel, boat, see wildlife, or just soak in the bohemian vibe of Bocas Town, the capital city.

The Western Highlands & Gulf of Chiriqui

The Western Highlands—so-called for the region’s location and its Cordillera Central range—is a veritable paradise of fertile peaks and valleys, crystal-clear rivers, mild temperatures, and fresh air. The region is undergoing a palpable growth spurt as hundreds of North Americans continue to buy second and retirement homes here, so expect to hear a lot of English. The region centers around the skirt of Volcán Barú, a dormant volcano capped by a moist cloud forest. Farther south are the humid lowlands, the capital city (David), and the wondrous coast and islands of the Gulf of Chiriquí. This is Panama’s up-and-coming beach/ocean destination, with its highlight being Coiba National Park, comprised of some of the world’s most diverse and pristine islands for scuba diving and snorkeling.

The Darién

The easternmost region of Panama is known as the Darién Province, a swath of impenetrable rainforest and swampland that is undeveloped save for a handful of tiny villages and indigenous settlements. It is Panama’s wildest region and the most difficult to reach: This is the famous “missing link” of the Pan American Highway, which runs from Alaska to Puerto Montt, Chile. The interior of the Darién can be reached only by foot, boat, or small plane—and herein lies the allure of adventure for travelers. Within the province lies Darién National Park, most of it inaccessible except for the Cana Research Station, an area revered by birders for the abundance of endemic and “show-bird” species such as macaws and harpy eagles, the largest raptor in the Americas. Along the Pacific shore is the famous Tropic Star Lodge; otherwise, lodging in the Darién is relegated to rustic shelters and tents. 

The Comarca Kuna Yala (The San Blas Archipelago)

Though commonly referred to as the San Blas Archipelago, this semiautonomous region, or comarca, is named for the Kuna Yala, perhaps Panama’s most well-known indigenous group. The Kuna are recognized for their tightly knit culture, colorful clothing, and handicrafts such as mola tapestries. More than 300 lovely, palm-studded islands in turquoise Caribbean waters make up the archipelago in what is truly an unspoiled paradise. The San Blas is a very popular cruise stop; however, staying on the islands requires a sense of adventure—they can be reached only by small plane or boat. Lodging is largely rustic and alfresco, and there’s little in the way of activities other than swimming and swaying in a hammock.

Tips for Families

Panama is an excellent destination for families, especially those with young children who are easily bored by stuffy museums. Jungle cruises, wildlife sightings, interactive marine museums, and outdoor activities such as snorkeling and kayaking are kid-pleasers. Hotel resorts are generally family-friendly, with children's swimming pools, playgrounds, and even kids' organized activities. A handful of resorts in Panama accept adults only, which is indicated in hotel reviews.

Unfortunately, though many hotels in Panama do not charge for kids under 3, they do charge extra for older kids, usually about $10 to $15 (£5-£7.50) extra per child for a larger "triple" or "quadruple" with additional beds. Other hotels ask that you book a junior suite because a regular double does not have the space for an additional bed. Junior suites and suites have a sofa bed for one to two small children. Major hotels have rooms with connecting doors for two doubles; this can be a costlier option if a hotel doesn't offer a break in price. Ask anyway; you never know what they'll be willing to offer.

Take special care with the health of your kids. Sunburn, bug bites, and unfamiliar food can take its toll. Major hotels offer babysitting service, though it's less common at country-style inns -- but ask anyway as they might have a reliable babysitter on hand.

Some tour operators can put together dynamic, activity-rich trips for families, either privately or as part of a larger travel group.

Tips on Accommodations

Panama offers a wide variety of lodging options, from five-star luxury eco-lodges to well-known chains, to budget backpacker hostels. Outside of Panama City, there aren't many chain hotels, however. In Panama City, the Marriot, Radisson, and Intercontinental are among the best chain hotels. Sprawling resorts are limited to the Pacific Coast, with the best bed and breakfasts in Boquete and the Valle de Anton.

The hotels listed in this guide are categorized broadly by price: Very Expensive, $150 (£75) and up; Expensive, $100 to $150 (£50-£75); Moderate, $50 to $100 (£25-£50); and Inexpensive, under $50 (£25) for a double. Rates in this guide do not include a government-mandated 10% hotel tax, unless otherwise specified. This tax could add considerably to the cost of your stay, especially at expensive hotels.

Hotels may include breakfast in the price, either continental or a full breakfast or breakfast buffet. If your hotel offers an all-inclusive package that includes meals, compare the package price against the room cost alone paired with ordering meals from their restaurant's menu -- some hotels inexplicably gouge travelers when it comes to meals in all-inclusive packages. Also inquire as to whether a hotel includes round-trip transportation from the airport. If not, hotels can usually organize transportation for about $20 (£10) one-way.

Moderate and upscale accommodations in Panama are on par with hotels of similar caliber in the U.S, while budget options can range from scary hole-in-the wall type places to charming pensiones and B&Bs. Though there are plenty of standard smaller hotels throughout Panama, I find that the abundance of delightful and reasonably priced eco-lodges and B&Bs are your best bet for lodging, and one of the things that will make your vacation to Panama memorable.

Panama's strong suit is its moderately priced hotels in the $50 to $100 (£25-£50) range. Hotels from $40 to $65 (£20-£33) are lean on style, and mattresses are not orthopedic and fitted with high-thread-count sheets, but more budget-minded or bohemian travelers won't mind. These hotels usually have air-conditioning and TV, too. In the $65 to $100 (£33-£50) per night range, you'll find outstanding hotels, ecolodges, and B&Bs that include all amenities and are usually located in beautiful surroundings. Few remote lodges have in-room amenities such as television, telephones, or hair dryers, and some solar-power-generated hotels may have electricity for a few hours only, or no electricity at all. Remote lodges usually have ceiling fans or cross-ventilation instead of air-conditioning.

Panama is a world-class eco-tourism destination, and therefore there are many nature-oriented ecolodges throughout the country. These lodges are found in natural settings and frequently offer opportunities to see sloths, monkeys, and a host of birds, sometimes even from your bedroom window. Ecolodges are so-called for their commitment to sustainable tourism, or because they are centered around activities that involve learning about tropical forests or bird-watching. They range from spartan facilities in converted scientific research stations to luxury accommodations. Ecolodges can be quite expensive if you throw in the cost of a chartered plane, guided excursions, and meals. Also, consider the elements you'll be forced to put up with, including biting insects, heat and humidity, strenuous hikes, or rugged transportation to see wildlife.

In most of Panama, hotels with kitchenettes are referred to as "aparthotels," an amalgam of apartment and hotel. Kitchenettes can be anything from a hot plate and microwave to a full-scale kitchen.

When booking a hotel room, be sure to ask if there is any construction going on nearby (this is especially true in Panama City); if so, ask for a room facing the interior of the hotel to reduce noise disturbances.

High season in Panama is the dry season, roughly early December to late April. Hotels in Panama City do not generally adhere to high- and low-season rates, but some hotels in popular tourist areas do. Price ranges listed in hotel reviews reflect a range encompassing low and high season; for example, $50 to $75 (£25-£38) for a double means $50 (£25) from May to November and $75 (£38) from December to April. Precise start and end dates for high season may vary from hotel to hotel. A few of the more remote lodges may close entirely from April to October. Check with individual properties for details about rates.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Panama is one of the hottest retirement destinations in the world, and most Panama hotels and businesses offer discounts of up to 40% to seniors 60 and older (age varies from business to business). Yet some are reluctant to extend discounts to foreign travelers, and claim the discount is for Panamanian seniors and foreigners with a residential visa only. Nevertheless, it doesn't hurt to request senior rates or discounts when booking.

When to Go

Panama lies between 7 degrees and 9 degrees above the Equator, which places it firmly within the Tropics. Accordingly, average year-round temperatures are a balmy 75°F to 85°F (24°C–29°C), varying only with altitude, from hot and humid in the tropical lowlands to cool in the highlands. The average temperature in the Chiriquí Highlands, for example, is 60°F (16°C), and it is the only area in Panama where you will likely feel cold.

Panama is tropical country, and as such has distinct dry and wet seasons. Generally speaking, December to mid-April are the driest months, while October and November are the wettest. However, cooler mountainous regions such as the Chiriquí Highlands and the Valle de Anton see rain throughout the year, though it’s usually limited to a light mist or barenje during the dry season. The Caribbean Coast also tends to be wetter than the Pacific, particularly Bocas del Toro, where it can rain anytime of the year. The Darien can be difficult at best in the rainy season, and you’ll be hard-pressed to find a company willing to go in the rainiest months, though there are so many bugs during this time that it’s unlikely you’d want to go anyway. The Azuero Peninsula is a bit drier than the rest of the country and has been subject to much deforestation. The Kuna Yala Islands represent an interesting topography. Unlike most Panamanian islands, which are heavily forested, the more than 365 Kuna Islands are made up of sand and palm trees, and temperatures are often more comfortable there than other beach destinations, with nights even getting a bit cool.

The Chiriquí Highlands experience a variety of microclimates that can change drastically, sometimes even within a few miles. In Boquete, high winds and a peculiar misting rain called bajareque are common from mid- December to mid-February; January sees the occasional thunderstorm, and March to May are the sunniest months.

If you are unable to visit during the dry season, keep in mind that the months April through July are characterized by sunny skies in the morning or afternoon, punctuated by sudden, heavy thunderstorms midday or in early afternoon that are short in duration and can happen every few days.

Public Holidays

There is a saying in Panama that the only thing Panamanians take seriously are their holidays—and it’s no joke. Nearly every business, including banks, offices, and many stores and restaurants, closes, making even Panama City feel like a ghost town. Official holidays that fall on a Saturday or Sunday are usually observed on Mondays, allowing for a long weekend. Transportation services are also greatly reduced. During holidays, most locals head for the beach or other getaway destinations, so if you plan to travel during this time, book lodging well in advance and make certain you have confirmed reservations.

Panama’s most revered holiday is Carnaval, the 4 days that precede Ash Wednesday. (Though not officially a holiday, most call in sick to work to recover from Carnaval on Wed.) The largest celebrations take place in Panama City and the Azuero Peninsula, with parades, floats, drinking, costumes, and music. Note that celebrations in Panama City can be a bit raucous and aren’t usually as classy as those on the Azuero Peninsula.

Official holidays in Panama include January 1 (New Year’s Day), January 9 (Martyr’s Day), Good Friday, Easter Sunday, May 1 (Labor Day), August 15 (Founding of Old Panama—observed in Panama City only), October 12 (Hispanic Day), November 2 (All Souls’ Day), November 3 (Independence Day), November 4 (Flag Day), November 5 (Colón Day—observed in the city of Colón only), November 10 (First Call for Independence), November 28 (Independence from Spain), December 8 (Mother’s Day), and December 25 (Christmas Day).

Panama Calendar of Events & Festivals

Many of the following listings are annual events whose exact dates vary from year to year, and the majority are local festivals. For more details, go to www.visitpanama.com, the website for autoridad de turismo Panama (atP), the country’s official tourism board (or call 800/962-1526).

JANAUARY

Feria de las Flores y del Café (Flower and Coffee Festival), Boquete. This festival is one of the grandest celebrations of flowers in the world, drawing thousands of people to Boquete for 10 days. Expect lush flower displays, food stands, live music, amusement rides, handicrafts booths, and hotel rooms booked far in advance. Go to http://feriadeboquete.com. Mid-January.

Jazz Festival, Panama City. For one 3-day weekend, Panama City throbs with live jazz performances by outstanding international musicians. Some events are held outdoors and are free; log on to www.panamajazzfestival.com. Mid-to late January.

FEBUARY

Carnaval (Carnival). Panama’s largest yearly celebration (occasionally falling in early March) takes place during the 4 days that precede Ash Wednesday. The largest celebrations are in small towns on the Azuero Peninsula, such as Las Tablas, and Panama City, with parades, music, and dancing. Be prepared to get wet by mojaderos, or trucks that spray revelers with water.

MARCH

Semana Santa. During this week (Holy Week), parades, religious processions, and other special events take place across the country. Palm Sunday through Holy Saturday.

Feria Internacional de David. The Chiriquí capital’s largest festival (http://www.feriadedavid.com/?fbclid=IwAR3IzEbxutb5g6XkAbJj5LFM9mk2obzZmHIutU_2pza18iadZJ8edrrCkTM) draws more than 500 exhibitors from around the world to display industrial products and new technology. During the 10-day fest, the city hosts cultural and folkloric events. Mid-March.

APRIL

Feria de Orquídeas (Orchid Festival), Boquete. It’s not as grand as the flower festival, but the Orchid Festival showcases thousands of varieties of these delicate flowers for public viewing. Go to http://feriadeboquete.com. At the fairgrounds late March to early April.

Feria Internacional de Azuero, La Villa de Los Santos. This multiday festival is something akin to a county fair, with animal displays, food stalls, and lots of drinking. Mid-April.

JUNE

Festival Corpus Christi, La Villa de Los Santos. The town explodes with activity for a 2-week religious festival known for its elaborate dances led by men in devil masks. Forty days after Easter.

JULY

Festival Patronales de La Virgen de Santa Librada, Las Tablas. This festival is famous for its festival nacional de la Pollera on July 22, which showcases the region’s most beautiful pollera dresses and elects the “Queen of the Pollera” for that year. July 20 to July 23.

SEPTEMBER

Feria del Mar (Festival of the Sea), Bocas del Toro. This 4-day event features food stands serving local cuisine, handicrafts booths, exhibits by the Smithsonian Institute and ANAM (the park service), folkloric presentations, and dances. Mid-September.

Festival Nacional de la Mejorana, Guararé. This nationally famous folkloric festival features hundreds of dancers, musicians, and singers coming together for a week of events and serious partying. Last week of September.

OCTOBER

Festival del Cristo Negro (Black Christ Festival), Portobelo. Thousands of pilgrims come to pay penance, perform other acts of devotion, and do some reveling at the Iglesia de San Felipe, home to a wooden black Christ effigy that is paraded around town on this day. October 21.

NOVEMBER

Independence Days. Panama celebrates three independence days. November 3 and 4 are Independence Day and Flag Day, and the largest independence celebrations, featuring parades, fireworks, and other entertainment, take place in Panama City and larger cities like David. November 10 is a holiday for the “First Call for Independence,” as is November 28, honoring Independence Day from Spain, with regional festivities— but nothing matches November 3 and 4.

Feria de las Tierras Altas, Volcán. This highlands Festival is a 5-day celebration of agriculture, local arts, and culture. Around the last week of November.

Money

Currency

The unit of currency in Panama is the U.S. dollar, but the Panamanian balboa, which is pegged to the dollar at a 1:1 ratio, also circulates in denominations of 5¢, 10¢, 25¢, and 50¢ coins. (U.S. coins are in circulation as well.) Balboa coins are sized similarly to their U.S. counterparts, and travelers will have no trouble identifying their value.

Travelers with pounds or euros may exchange money at Banco Nacional, which has branches in the airport and across the nation. To save time, you may want to convert your money into dollars before arriving at Panama. At time of publication US$1 is equal to .50£ and .75€.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), available in banks and supermarkets, and identifiable by a red SISTEMA CLAVE sign with a white key. ATMs, called cajeros automáticos, can be found in larger towns only, so if you're visiting out-of-the-way destinations such as an offshore island, plan to bring extra cash. Remember that you can usually only take up to $500 a day out of an ATM in Panama, so if you need a large sum of money, you'll need to start withdrawing a few days in advance. To find ATM locations in Panama, check out www.sclave.com/english.html.

Credit Cards

Businesses that accept credit cards always accept Visa and Mastercard, and to a lesser extent American Express. Diners Club is not widely accepted. Most businesses in Panama City and other major commerce centers accept credit cards. In small towns and more remote destinations, be sure to bring enough cash.

Traveler's Checks

Traveler's checks are readily accepted at major hotels, and less so at budget hotels and restaurants. In fact, beyond major hotels and banks, businesses in Panama seem reluctant to accept traveler's checks. Use an ATM for cash if you can, and bring traveler's checks as a backup in the event of a lost or stolen card.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Panama's country code is 507. Whenever you're calling a landline Panama phone number within Panama, simply dial the 7-digit number. Note that cell phones have 8-digits, and all cell phone numbers begin with a 6.

Many moderate to budget hotels don't allow outgoing calls to cell numbers, so it may be a good idea to buy or rent a cell phone in Panama. To dial an international number from a Panama phone, dial 00+the country code+the area code+the 7-digit number. Most hotels charge steep fees for international calls, and some moderate and most budget hotels don't allow international calls. Some Internet cafes also provide phones for local and international calls, generally with better rates than you'd get at a hotel.

Cellphones

There are no phone-rental kiosks in the Panama City airport, and travelers who need to make a lot of local calls and receive international calls are better off buying a phone in Panama or buying a sim card if you have an unlocked cellphone. Cellphones that accept prepaid phone cards are as cheap as $20 (£15.50) in electronics stores in Panama City (and come with a bonus of $20/£10 in calls), and phone-card companies have nonstop promotions that double or triple the value of phone cards. Local calls are as low as 10¢ per minute, and incoming calls are free. While some higher-end hotels rent cell phones, it's probably cheaper just to buy a new one.

Prepaid phone cards can be purchased in just about any grocery store or pharmacy, and instructions for how to add credit is listed on the back of each card. The instructions are in Spanish, but whoever sells you the card can credit your account if you ask.

The major cell phone providers in Panama are Movistar, Digicel, and Más Móvil. Note that some companies have better cell coverage in certain areas. Also, be aware that calling cards can be service-provider specific, so you'll have to buy a different card depending on whether you have a Movistar or Digicel cellphone. If you are unsure what kind of phone you have, a salesperson can help you. Calling cards generally come in denominations of $5 (£2.50), $10 (£5), and $12 (£6).

Voice-Over Internet Protocol (VOIP)

If you have web access while traveling, consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet Protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allow you to make free international calls from your laptop or in a cybercafe. Neither service requires the people you're calling to also have that service (though there are fees if they do not). Check the websites for details.

Internet & E-Mail

With Your Own Computer -- More and more hotels, cafes, and retailers are signing on as Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) "hot spots." Mac owners have their own networking technology: Apple AirPort. To locate other hot spots that provide free wireless networks in cities around the world, go to www.personaltelco.net/index.cgi/wirelesscommunities.

For dial-up access, most hotels offer dataports for laptop modems, and high-speed connection in their business centers. Most upscale hotels have stepped up to wireless connection in guest rooms, but often costs $10 to $20 (£5-£10) per day. Rates vary wildly from hotel to hotel (some even offer free service), so factor the price into your nightly stay if you're bringing your work with you and need prolonged access to the Internet. Moderate to budget hotels often offer free Wi-Fi, at least in their lobbies. Internet connections of any kind are more difficult to impossible to come by in more remote areas such as the Darién, some parts of Bocas del Toro, and the Kuna Yala Islands.

To find public Wi-Fi hotspots at your destination, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

Without Your Own Computer -- Many hotels have at least one computer hooked up to the Internet available for guests to use.

To find cybercafes in your destination, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

U.S. citizens traveling to Panama are required to present a valid passport. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the U.S. State Department’s website at http://travel.state.gov. Click on “U.S. Passports & International Travel” and then choose “Country Information.”

Important: When entering the country, travelers must be able to demonstrate proof of sufficient funds if requested, and they must present an onward or return ticket. However, it’s rare that an official will ask for this.

In an effort to prevent international child abduction, many governments require a parent or legal guardian (or someone other than the parent) traveling alone with a child to provide documentary evidence of relationship and travel permission. Having such documentation on hand can facilitate entry/departure if immigration requests it, although it is not always required. Inquire when booking your airline ticket about updated entry/departure procedures for children.

Visas

Citizens of the United States, Canada, Great Britain, and most European nations may visit Panama for a maximum of 180 consecutive days. No visa is necessary. If transiting the Panama Canal as vessel passengers, there is no need to even show a passport if not disembarking. A passport must be valid for at least 3 months from arrival in the country.

Carry your passport with you at all times. Panamanian police will sometimes ask for your documents, particularly on long bus rides on routine checks. The last thing you want is be detained by police for hours on your way somewhere, so be sure to have your passport with you. If you absolutely refuse to carry your passport, make a copy of your ID page and your Customs arrival stamp. Even in Panama City, police are known to take advantage of “gringos” without documents, threatening jail time or demanding a payment of whatever you have on you. (If you don’t have enough on you, they’ll be happy to drive you to the nearest ATM.) This little trick is most likely to happen to men walking around at night after a few too many drinks, but the bottom line is to always carry your passport or a copy of your ID and entry page.

Medical Requirements

There are no vaccination requirements when entering Panama. However, if you’ll be traveling to the tropical lowlands or to the jungle, it’s wise to get vaccinated for typhoid, yellow fever, and hepatitis A. All travelers should also be up-to-date on their tetanus immunizations. Occasionally, spikes in dengue fever occur, so travelers will want to be especially careful during the rainy season. If you’re going to the Darién, you may also want to take malaria pills, which should be prescribed by your doctor at least 10 days before your departure. However, if you’re traveling during the dry season or won’t be exploring the tropical lowlands or rainforests too much, your risk of tropical disease is relatively low. 

Customs

What You Can Bring into Panama 

Visitors to Panama may bring with them personal items, such as jewelry, and professional equipment, including cameras, computers, and electronics, as well as fishing and diving gear for personal use—all of which are permitted duty-free. Visitors may bring in up to 200 cigarettes and 3 bottles of liquor tax-free. Customs officials in Panama seldom check arriving tourists’ luggage. 

What You Can Take Home from Panama

For information on what you’re allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (www.cbp.gov; tel. 877/287-8667).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca; tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise, Crownhill Court, Tailor Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (www.hmce.gov.uk; tel. 0845/010-9000; from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Ave., Canberra City, ACT 2601 (www.customs.gov.au; tel. 1300/ 363-263; from outside Australia, 61/2-6275-6666).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington, 6140 (www.customs.govt.nz; tel. 04/473- 6099 or 0800/428-786).

Tips for Multicultural Travelers

Panama is a multicultural country, and although discrimination exists, multicultural travelers are unlikely to face any direct discrimination in Panama. Travelers may be regarded with curiosity and stared at in smaller, more isolated destinations, but it's unlikely anyone will turn you away or be rude to you because of your race.

Calendar of Events

Many of the following listings are annual events whose exact dates vary from year to year, and the majority are local festivals. Call the ATP tourism board at tel. 800/962-1526, or check out their website at www.visitpanama.com, for more information.

January

Feria de las Flores y del Café (Flower and Coffee Festival), Boquete. This festival is one of the grandest celebrations of flowers in the world, drawing thousands of people to Boquete for 10 days. Expect lush flower displays, food stands, live music, amusement rides, handicrafts booths, and hotel rooms booked far in advance. Mid-January.

Jazz Festival, Panama City. For one 3-day weekend, Panama City throbs with live jazz performances by outstanding international musicians. Some events are held outdoors and are free; log on to www.panamajazzfestival.com. Late January.

February

Carnaval (Carnival). Panama's largest yearly celebration takes place during the 4 days that precede Ash Wednesday. The largest celebrations are in small towns on the Azuero Peninsula, such as Las Tablas, and Panama City, with parades, music, and dancing. Be prepared to get wet by mojaderos, or trucks that spray revelers with water.

March

Semana Santa. During this week (Holy Week), parades, religious processions, and other special events take place across the country. Palm Sunday through Holy Saturday.

Feria de David. The Chiriquí capital's largest festival draws more than 500 exhibitors from around the world to display industrial products and new technology. During the 10-day event, the city hosts plentiful cultural and folkloric events; www.feriadedavid.com. Mid-March.

April

Feria de Orquídeas (Orchid Festival), Boquete. It's not as grand as the flower festival, but the Orchid Festival is enjoyable because it showcases thousands of varieties of these delicate flowers for public viewing. At the fairgrounds around mid-April.

Feria Internacional del Azuero, La Villa de Los Santos. This multiday festival is something akin to a county fair, with animal displays, food stalls, and lots of drinking. Mid-April.

June

Festival Corpus Christi, La Villa de Los Santos. The town explodes with activity for a 2-week religious festival known for its elaborate dances led by men in devil masks. Forty days after Easter.

July

Festival Patronales de La Virgen de Santa Librada, Las Tablas. This festival is famous for its Festival de la Pollera on July 22, which showcases the region's most beautiful pollera dresses and elects the "Queen of the Pollera" for that year. July 20 to 22.

September

Feria Internacional del Mar (International Festival of the Sea), Bocas del Toro. This 5-day event features food stands serving local cuisine, handicrafts booths, exhibits by the Smithsonian Institute and ANAM (the park service), folkloric presentations, and dances. Around the second week of September.

Festival de la Mejorana, Guararé. This nationally famous folkloric festival features hundreds of dancers, musicians, and singers coming together for a week of events and serious partying. Last week of September.

October

Festival del Cristo Negro (Black Christ Festival), Portobelo. Thousands of pilgrims come to pay penance, perform other acts of devotion, and do some reveling at the Iglesia de San Felipe, home to a wooden black Christ effigy that is paraded around town on this day. October 21.

November

Independence Days. Panama celebrates three independence days. November 3 and 4 are Independence Day and Flag Day and the largest independence celebrations, featuring parades, fireworks, and other entertainment in Panama City and larger cities like David. November 10th is a holiday for the "First Call for Independence," as is November 28th honoring Independence Day from Spain, with some regional festivities -- but nothing matching November 3 and 4.

Feria de las Tierras Altas, Volcán. This Highlands Festival is a 5-day celebration of agriculture, local arts, and culture. Around the last week of November.

Tips for Women Travelers

Walking alone at night will probably earn you a couple of catcalls, but women traveling in Panama will not feel overwhelmed by a macho presence. The influx of foreigners in Panama has helped, too. The best defense toward an inappropriate comment is to just ignore it and keep walking. In Panama City, women dress up in spite of the heat (meaning no flip-flops and shorts), but skimpier wear is accepted in beach areas.

Fast Facts

Staying Healthy

Travelers in Panama should have no problem staying healthy, as standards of hygiene are high, and tap water is safe to drink in most areas. Those with sensitive stomachs will want to drink bottled water when outside major hotels and cities. The most common health problems that affect travelers in Panama are sunburn and mosquito bites. Illnesses that once ravaged humans in the Tropics, such as yellow fever and malaria, are no longer epidemic in Panama.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883, in Canada, 416/652 0137 (www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and current information about health concerns in Panama, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/232-4636 (www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

General Availability of Health Care

Hospital quality in Panama City is on a par with that of the United States (most doctors are U.S.-trained), but medical service here is far more economical. Major cities such as David have at least one high-quality hospital, but in small towns, a medical clinic may be the extent of healthcare facilities in the area, and more serious cases must be treated in Panama City.

English-speaking doctors are very common in Panama -- your embassy can provide you with a list if you request one.

The most likely illness you'll face in Panama is traveler's diarrhea from unfamiliar foods or drinks. Even though the water in Panama is perfectly safe to drink almost everywhere, travelers with very delicate stomachs may want to stick to bottled water. Also, those with delicate stomachs may want to stick to moderate and high-end restaurants, and avoid raw vegetables and pealed fruits.

If you're traveling to the tropical lowlands or jungle areas, be sure to pack plenty of bug repellent with a high percentage of DEET, especially if you'll be hiking or spending most of your time outdoors. There's been a spike in Dengue cases in the last few years, and the last thing you want is to have your trip ruined by a tropical disease. Also, if you'll be traveling in the Darien or another heavily forested area, bring light, long sleeved clothing to avoid bug bites.

Most drugs can be bought over the counter at any pharmacy in Panama, and many prescription-only drugs in the U.S are sold over the counter in pharmacies. Headache, anti-diarrheal, and other common OTC mediations are readily available at all pharmacies

Common Ailments

Tropical Illnesses -- Travelers have a low risk of contracting a tropical disease while in Panama. Yellow fever, the mosquito-borne disease that decimated canal workers in the late 19th and early 20th century, is no longer epidemic and vaccinations are not required. However, if you're traveling to the Darién, Bocas del Toro, or other remote tropical destinations, you may want to consider getting vaccinated against yellow fever.

Governmental bulletins from the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) recommend that travelers planning to visit Bocas del Toro, Darién, or the San Blas Archipelago be vaccinated against malaria -- yet cases of malaria are not common and mostly afflict rural citizens who live in remote areas, such as Ngöbe-Buglé Indian tribes. You might consider vaccination against malaria if you plan to spend extended periods in the jungle in the aforementioned areas. Malaria is a parasite that lives in red blood cells and is transmitted by the female anopheles mosquito. The symptoms are cycles of chills, fever, and sweating, sometimes accompanied by headache, backache, and vomiting. Check with your doctor for updated news about malaria outbreaks and what vaccine is best for the region you plan to visit (mosquitoes in the Darién, for example, are resistant to the common vaccine chloroquine).

More common is dengue fever, an infectious disease caused by an arbovirus transmitted by daytime mosquitoes. Symptoms of the disease appear suddenly and include a high fever, chills, swollen and painful eyes, a headache, and severe aches in the legs and joints -- the reason dengue is commonly referred to as "breakbone fever." Symptoms last a week, and though most people recover fully, weakness and fatigue can continue for several weeks. Dengue fever outbreaks have been reported during the past few years in the Bocas del Toro and Colón provinces, mostly affecting locals who live near pools of stagnant water.

The most effective prevention against malaria and dengue fever is to protect yourself against mosquito bites.

Dietary Distress -- Hepatitis A is a highly contagious viral disease and one of the most common travel-related infections in the developing world. It's transmitted by eating contaminated food, by fecal-oral contact, or by contact with unsanitary conditions. Outbreaks usually occur in poor regions such as the Colón Province, where more than 50 cases were reported in early 2006 due to a contaminated aqueduct and poor food-handling practices. Hepatitis A symptoms range from mild to severe, and can include fever, nausea, and jaundice; cases are normally resolved without complications. The vaccination is safe and effective, and is recommended for anyone traveling to Panama.

Leptospirosis is a disease caused by contact with animals infected with leptospires, or by ingesting, or swimming in, water contaminated with animal urine. It causes fever, chills, headache, muscle aches, vomiting, and diarrhea. Travelers become sick from between 2 days to 4 weeks after exposure to the bacteria, the catch being that it can often be misdiagnosed without a blood or urine sample. If you experience the aforementioned symptoms, contact your doctor, who can treat leptospirosis with antibiotics such as penicillin.

The most common illness that affects tourists is TD, or traveler's diarrhea, caused by microbes in food and water and typically affecting persons from a country with a high standard of sanitation traveling to an area with a less-advanced system of sanitation. In addition to diarrhea, affected persons may experience nausea and headaches. To prevent TD, avoid foods or beverages from street vendors that look iffy, avoid eating raw or undercooked meat and seafood, and drink bottled water when outside major hotels and restaurants.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Panama is replete with bugs that bite, including chiggers, sandflies (also called no-see-ums, or chitras), mosquitoes, ticks, and ants. It is very important that you protect yourself against mosquitoes that may or may not carry a disease such as dengue fever. Mosquitoes are endemic, and in mountain ranges they can leave particularly large welts. Ticks are found mostly in the Darién jungle area during March and April. Chiggers leave a tiny bump that can itch for 2 weeks; but the gross-out factor is that these immature nymphs burrow their mouths into skin pores or hair follicles -- you notice the bite after they've left. Chitras live in sand, and are more active during sunrise and sunset -- but they can bite at any time of the day.

Panama City is the only area of the country where you won't have to worry too much about getting bitten. Otherwise, spray yourself with insect repellent every day, even if you are just stepping out for dinner at an outdoor cafe. In the jungle, wear long pants (tuck them into your socks) and give your ankle area and all exposed areas a coat of repellent that has at least 30% DEET. Some travelers soak their clothing with the insecticide Permethrin (some companies now sell adventure wear presoaked with Permethrin) to repel bugs. Above all, bring along a bite-soothing, anti-itch product like Sting-eeze.

Panama is home to many poisonous snakes such as the pit viper, the fer-de-lance, and the patoca, but bites are rare. Nevertheless, protect yourself by wearing high boots if you're walking in remote jungle, and keep alert, scanning the trail in front of you. If you're bitten, cutting X-shaped gouges and sucking out the venom is old-fashioned nonsense that won't work; instead, remain calm (panic speeds the venom's diffusion), wash the wound with soap and water if you can, try to identify the species, and seek emergency medical help.

Tropical Sun -- The blistering, equatorial sun can burn your skin faster than you think -- even on a cloudy day. Limit your exposure or apply, liberally, a high-factor sunscreen. The sun is especially strong from 11am to 2pm.

Sunstroke, or heatstroke, can afflict travelers in the Tropics when humidity interferes with the cooling of an overheated body. Sunstroke can be serious, so rest and cool off if you begin to feel dizzy or have a headache. Drink plenty of fluids to keep dehydration at bay.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

For travel abroad, you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Responsible tourism is conscientious travel. It means taking care to maintain the preservation of the environments you explore and respecting the communities you visit. In a place like Panama, with such extremely high levels of natural and cultural diversity, this is particularly important.

Ecotourism

In 2015, the Panamanian government launched a strategy to develop sustainable ecotourism, which included an application for smartphones that directs tourists entering protected forest areas throughout the country. The program, known as the Iniciativa Turismo Verde (Green Tourism Initiative), is a joint venture of the Ministry of Environment, the Tourism Authority of Panama (ATP) and the National Institute of Culture (INAC). Known as Ecotur Panama, the app works with Android and Apple- powered cell phones to provide comprehensive information about the country’s protected wildlife areas, including maps and trail information. It also features an alert system that can be engaged in the event someone finds them- selves lost in the woods.

The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as “responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment, sustains the well-being of the local people, and involves interpretation and education.” TIES suggests that ecotourists follow these principles:

Minimize environmental impact.
Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people. Raise sensitivity to host countries’ political, environmental, and social climates.
Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find tips for responsible travelers under “Get Involved” at the TIES website.

Ethical Tourism

Although much of the focus of ecotourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resources listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel:

Carbonfund, TerraPass, and Cool Climate provide info on “carbon offsetting,” or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights. Greenhotels (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company’s stringent environmental requirements. .
For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly. For information about the ethics of whale-watching, visit Whale and Dolphin Conservation.

Responsible Travel is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International promotes ethical tourism practices and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Getting There

By Plane

Almost all international flights land at Tocumen International Airport (PTY; tel.  238-2700), located 21km (13 miles) from Panama City. Flights from Costa Rica to Panama City with the country’s domestic carrier, Air Panama (tel. 316-9000), land at the Marcos A. Gelabert Airport (PAC), more commonly referred to as Albrook Airport. There is also direct service from San José, Costa Rica, to the David and Bocas del Toro airports. In addition, Avianca Airlines (see below) has service from Costa Rica, arriving at Tocumen.

The following airlines serve Panama City from the United States, using the gateway cities listed. American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300 in the U.S., or 269-6022 in Panama) has two daily flights from Miami. Avianca (800/284-2622 in the U.S., or 206-8222 in Panama) has flights from many major U.S. hubs, but most include a stopover in Bogotá, El Salvador, or Costa Rica. Copa Airlines (tel. 800/359-2672 in the U.S., or 227-0116 in Panama) has the most flights in and out of Panama City, with daily or weekly flights from Miami, Orlando, New Orleans, New York, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, and Washington, D.C., as well as destinations from around Latin America and the Caribbean.

Delta Airlines (tel. 800/241-4141 in the U.S., or 214-8118 in Panama) offers one daily flight from Atlanta. United Airlines (tel. 800/044-0001 in the U.S., or 265-0040 in Panama) offers flights between Panama and Chicago, Houston, Miami, New Orleans, New York, Orlando, Tampa Bay, and several regional cities.

From Europe, Iberia (tel. 0870/609-0500 in the U.K., or 227-3966 in Panama) has daily flights to Panama City that connect in either Madrid or Amsterdam. American Airlines (see above) and British Airways (tel. 800/246-9297 in the U.S.) have daily flights that connect in Miami.

From Australia, Qantas (tel. 9691-3636) has daily flights in conjunction with Copa Air from Sydney, connecting in Los Angeles; Air New Zealand (tel. 507-264-8756 in NZ) also works in conjunction with Copa Air with one daily flight from Auckland, connecting in Los Angeles.

By Bus 

Comfortable, air-conditioned international bus routes from Panama run to neighboring Costa Rica with Tica Bus (tel. 314-6385 in Panama), departing from Albrook station. There are three daily departures for the approximately 16-hour drive.

By Boat

Several major international cruise lines have itineraries that include the Panama Canal, often continuing on to various Caribbean or Latin American ports. Carnival, Celebrity, Holland America, Norwegian, and Princess ships travel through the 64km (40-mile) canal, rising and falling with the locks, from one ocean to the other.

Yachts also travel frequently between Portobelo and Cartagena, Colombia, on the Caribbean Coast. These are less formal and are usually arranged directly with the boat owners at marinas in either destination.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Major hotels in Panama City offer wheelchair-accessible guest rooms, and many public bathrooms are accessible to those with limited mobility. It's important to note, however, that travel outside Panama City or major hotels and resorts can be difficult, and most small towns and out-of-the way destinations are not well-equipped to handle travelers with disabilities.

Getting Around

Visitor Information

The Panama Tourist Board, known as the Autoridad de Turismo de Panama (ATP), has a website and toll-free number for North Americans and Canadians (tel. 800/231-0568; www.visitpanama.com); English-language brochures are available. The website offers more information than can be gotten from any ATP representative on the phone, and also has links to other helpful sites. Make sure to check out www.panamainfo.com as well; it's probably the best travel site currently available on Panama and they also publish a quarterly magazine with tourist, real estate, and restaurant information. The quarterly magazine Panama 980 (www.panama980.com), provides English-language tourist information and in depth hotel and restaurant reviews. 9 80 can be purchased at the airport and is available at some hotels and restaurants.

ATP centers in major tourist destinations such as Panama City, Boquete, and Bocas del Toros also generally provide decent regional maps. The best country and regional maps can be found in El Hombre de la Mancha bookstores in Panama City.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Panama is more tolerant toward gays and lesbians than other more conservative Latin American societies, but discrimination exists, and displays of public affection are not common. The Catholic Church is the most vociferous anti-gay organization in Panama, rallying against events such as gay participation in Carnaval parades. Panama held its first gay-pride parade in 2005 without incident. A few hotels in Panama advertise gay-friendly accommodations; you can find them at www.purpleroofs.com.