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Getting There -- Panarea is between Salina and Stromboli, and is served by the summer SNAV (tel. 081/4285555; www.snav.it) hydrofoil service from Naples, and by the ferries and hydrofoils from Milazzo, usually with a connection at Lipari.

Getting Around -- Hydrofoils arrive at the single pier at the village of San Pietro, on the east coast. Most everything on Panarea is walkable, but the best coves are accessible only by sea: Rent a motorboat (Da Diego, just a few meters west of the ferry dock; tel. 338/5774880) or avail of the informal group shuttle services from the port to popular swimming areas like Cala Junco and the offshore rock islets of Basiluzzo and Lisca Bianca (about 5€ round-trip): Just hang around the waterfront and follow the swarthy men yelling out "Lisca," "Junco," and so on.

Fast Facts -- Hydrofoil and ferry tickets can be bought at the small ticket office opposite the jetty (hours vary to coincide with departures). The island is serviced by Siremar (tel. 090/983007) and SNAV (tel. 090/983009). For the Carabinieri (police), call 090/983181. It's best to stock up on anything you might need before arriving. There is an ATM on the island (although not a bank), at the southern end of the seafront at San Pietro next to the small supermarket. Boutiques in the winding streets of San Pietro tend to sell expensive and studiedly carefree boho-chic, although there are a couple of grocery stores where you'll be able to find last-minute sun-cream or batteries, and a couple of places selling sandwiches and snacks. The only pharmacy on the island is Farmacia Sparacino, Via Comunale Iditella, 12 (tel. 090/983148?), just up beyond the port.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.