Olympe Versini earned a Michelin star in her 20s and has been writing cookbooks and dazzling discerning palates ever since. One of the pioneers of “nouvelle cuisine” in the 1970s, she has since moved on to warmer climes, as reflected in the menu. There is a distinctly Mediterranean flair to dishes like marinated sardines, sweetbreads with Pantelleria capers, and roast shoulder of lamb with thyme. Finish off with whipped lemon sherbet with Prosecco.