Pátzcuaro generally closes down before 10pm, so bring a good book or plan to rest up. Late-night-music lovers can go to Viejo Gaucho to hear Latin American folk music. The small restaurant serves salads and hamburgers. It's in the Hotel Mansión Iturbe (tel. 434/342-3627); enter from Calle Iturbe. It's open Wednesday through Saturday from 6pm to midnight. Music starts between 8:30 and 9pm.

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