Planning a trip to Perth

Fast Facts

American Express -- The foreign exchange office at 645 Hay St. Mall (tel. 1300/139 060) is open Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm and Saturday 10am to 2pm, closed Sunday.

Business Hours -- Banks are open Mon through Thu 9:30am to 4pm and until 5pm Fri, though some branches open Sat mornings. Shopping hours have finally moved into the 21st century. Most retail shops open 8am to 9pm Mon to Fri and 8am to 5pm Sat. They can also open Sun and holidays in Perth, Fremantle, Northbridge, and Subiaco. Note that not all stores open from 6pm onward.

Currency Exchange -- Go to the American Express office or Travelex, Murray St Mall, 267 Murray St, (tel. 08/9322 6277; Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 10am-3:30pm, Sun noon-4pm). Check www.travelex.com.au for other locations.

Dentists -- LifeCare Dental (tel. 08/9221 2777, or 08/9383 1620 emergencies) is on the Upper Walkway Level, Forrest Chase shopping complex, 419 Wellington St., opposite Perth Railway Station. Open daily 8am to 8pm.

Doctors -- Central City Medical Centre is on the Perth Railway Station concourse, 378 Wellington St. (tel. 08/9225 1188. Open daily 8am to 6pm.

Embassies & Consulates -- The United States Consulate-General is at 16 St. Georges Terrace (tel. 08/9202 1224). The Canadian Consulate is at 267 St. Georges Terrace (tel. 08/9322 7930). The British Consular Agency is at Level 26, 77 St. Georges Terrace (tel. 08/9224 4700).

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 000 for fire, ambulance, or police for emergencies only. This is a free call; no coins are needed from a public phone.

Hospitals -- Royal Perth Hospital, in the city center, has a public emergency/casualty ward (tel. 08/9224 2244). Enter from Victoria Square, off the eastern end of Murray Street.

Luggage Storage & Lockers -- The Perth YHA Backpackers Hostel, 300 Wellington St. (tel. 08/9287 3333) stores luggage, and there are lockers at both international and domestic terminals at the airport.

Pharmacies -- Amcal Pharmacy Forrest Chase (tel. 08/9221 1691), on the upper level of the Forrest Chase shopping center, 425 Wellington St., is open Mon through Thu 8am to 7pm, until 9pm Fri, Sat 8:30am to 6pm, and Sun 10am to 6pm. Most pharmacies will make local deliveries -- try either Friendlies or Amcal Chemist branches, listed in the telephone directory.

Police -- Dial tel. 000 in a life-threatening emergency. Otherwise call tel. 13 14 44 to be connected to the nearest station. Perth Police Station, 60 Beaufort St. (tel. 08/9223 3715), and Fremantle Police Station, 45 Henderson St. (tel. 08/9430 1222), are open 24 hours.

Safety -- Perth is safe, but steer clear of the back streets of Northbridge and the city center malls late at night -- where groups of teenagers may congregate -- even if you are not alone.

Time Zone -- Western Australian time (WS) is Greenwich Mean Time plus 8 hours. Standard time is 2 hours behind Sydney and Melbourne, but 3 hours behind Oct to March. Call tel. 1194 for the exact local time.

Weather -- Call tel. 1196 for a recorded local weather forecast, or check www.bom.gov.au/weather/wa/forecasts/perth.shtml.

Getting There

By Plane

Qantas, or its subsidiary Qantaslink (tel. 13 13 13 in Australia; www.qantas.com.au), flies at least once a day from all mainland capitals as well as Broome, Kalgoorlie, and Alice Springs. It also services several other towns in Western Australia. Virgin Blue (tel. 13 67 89 in Australia; www.virginblue.com.au) flies direct from Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Brisbane, Darwin, and Broome, with connections from other cities. Jetstar (tel. 13 15 38 in Australia; www.jetstar.com) has daily flights from Sydney, with connections from Melbourne, Brisbane, and Gold Coast. Skywest (tel. 1300/660 088 in WA; www.skywest.com.au) connects Perth to many significant towns in WA, to Darwin, and to Melbourne (weekly). Tiger Airways (tel. 03/9335 3033 in Australia; www.tigerairways.com) has daily flights from Melbourne, with connections to other mainland cities.

Perth Airport is 12km (7 1/2 miles) northeast of the city. There are three main terminals: international, T1, on the east side of the facility; domestic, T2 (Qantas & Jetstar), and T3 (others) on the west. Luggage trolley hire is expensive, costing A$4 (coins needed) curbside at all terminals, and in domestic arrivals. They are free for international arrivals. Allow a minimum of 20 minutes to transfer between international and domestic terminals; using the CONNECT inter-terminal shuttle, A$8 for everyone over 5 years, though Qantas, Oneworld and Virgin Blue passengers may be eligible for free transfers. At T1, look for volunteer Customer Service Officers called "Gold Coats," who can provide assistance and information; while all terminals have WOWs (West Oz Welcomers) wearing Akubra hats.

Avis (tel. 08/9277 1177 domestic terminal, 08/9477 1302 international terminal), Budget (tel. 08/9277 9277), Europcar (tel. 08/9237 4325 domestic, 08/9237 6870 international), Hertz (tel. 08/9479 4788), and Thrifty (tel. 08/9277 1854) have desks at both terminals.

The Perth Airport CONNECT shuttle (tel. 1300/666 806 in Australia, www.perthairportconnect.com.au) aims to meet all flights within 30 to 45 minutes of Customs clearance, or luggage collection at domestic terminals. The shuttle services hotels, motels, and hostels in the city and Fremantle (where it may also operate to a private address).You need to book all Fremantle transfers and Perth to airport pick-ups. Prices are on a sliding scale depending on numbers in a group. Transfers between the international terminal and Perth cost A$18 one-way and A$30 return for one passenger, up to A$48 one-way and A$89 return for four passengers, or A$35 for families; from the domestic terminal, they cost from A$15 one-way and A$25 return for one passenger, up to A$36 one-way and A$67 return for four passengers, and A$28 for families. Fremantle prices are higher.

Public bus no. 37 runs to the city from the domestic terminal, but no buses run from the international terminal. A taxi to the city is about A$40 from the international terminal and A$32 from the domestic terminal, including a A$2 fee for picking up a taxi at the airport.

By Train

The 3-day journey to Perth from Sydney via Broken Hill, Adelaide, and Kalgoorlie aboard the Indian Pacific, operated by Great Southern Rail (tel. 13 21 47 in Australia; www.greatsouthernrail.com.au), is a great experience. It has the world's longest stretch of straight rail (over 483km/300 miles) along the Nullarbor Plain. The train runs twice a week (Sept-Nov and Jan-Mar, otherwise once a week) in each direction, and can carry your vehicle. The one-way fare ranges from A$3,450 in the spacious Platinum Service (only certain times of year), to A$2,068 in Gold Service with meals and an en-suite bathroom, to A$1,452 in comfy but cramped (if you're large or tall) Red Sleeper Service (meals cost extra, and bathrooms are shared), down to A$751 for sit-up-all-the-way Daynighter Seats (for the young budget traveler). Rail passes are available. There are connections from the Overland and Ghan trains.

All long-distance trains pull into the East Perth Terminal, Summers Street off Lord Street, East Perth. A taxi to the city center costs about A$18.

By Bus

Greyhound Australia (tel. 13 14 99 in Australia) has no service from the eastern states; there's only a 3-days-a-week service from Darwin via Broome (about 62 hr.), and the full fare is about A$718. The Western Explorer Pass gives greater flexibility; it is valid for 183 days and costs A$849.

By Car

There are only two interstate routes -- the 4,310km (2,694-mile) route from Darwin via Broome in the north, and the 2,708km (1,679-mile) odyssey from Adelaide across the Nullarbor Plain. Arm yourself with up-to-date details on sightseeing and the limited accommodations before setting off.

Getting Around

By Public Transportation

Transperth (www.transperth.wa.gov.au) runs Perth's buses, trains, and ferries. For route, bus stop, and timetable information, call tel. 13 62 13 in Western Australia, or drop into the Transperth InfoCentres at the Perth Train Station, Perth Underground Station (Murray St entrance), Wellington Street Bus Station, or Perth Esplanade Busport on Mounts Bay Road. You can transfer between bus, ferry, and train services for up to 2 hours (Zones 1-4) or 3 hours (Zones 5-9). Travel costs A$2.50 in one zone, and A$3.70 in two, which gets you most places, including Fremantle, with discounts for kids aged 5 to 14.

SmartRider is an electronic ticketing system, which can save up to 25% off the cash fare, but it involves a basic A$10 cost plus a minimum A$10 travel component, so it's of doubtful value to most tourists unless you plan to stay several days. Check the website or an InfoCentre for more information. To use SmartRider, you need to validate it by tagging on and off the machines onboard buses and ferries or at train station platforms.

A DayRider ticket can be purchased to allow 1 day of unlimited travel on the network after 9am on weekdays and all day on weekends and public holidays for A$9. A FamilyRider pass is valid for unlimited all-day travel anywhere on the network, for a group of up to seven people, including two full fares, but only on weekends and public holidays, or from 9am during school holidays, for A$9.

Take a Free Ride -- A welcome freebie in Perth is the availability of free public transport within the city center and some nearby areas. There are the free CAT (Central Area Transit) buses , and there is the Free Transit Zone (FTZ). You can travel free on all buses within this zone any hour, day or night. For free train travel in the FTZ, a SmartRider must be used, but it's not practical for most visitors. The FTZ allows free travel to Kings Park, Northbridge, east to major sporting grounds, and anywhere within the city center. Signs mark the FTZ boundaries; just ask the driver if you're unsure.

By Bus

The Wellington Street Bus Station (close to Perth Train Station) and the Perth Esplanade Busport on Mounts Bay Road are the two main arrival and departure points. The vast majority of buses travel along St. Georges Terrace. You must hail the bus to ensure that it stops. Buy tickets from the driver. Buses run from about 5:30am until about 10:30 or 11:30pm, depending on the route.

The best way to get around town is on the free CAT buses which run a continual loop of the city and Northbridge. They operate generally from between 6am and 7am weekdays, but starting 8:30am Saturdays and 10am Sundays, with less frequency. Last bus times vary . Transperth InfoCentres dispense free route maps.

The Red CAT runs east-west approx every 5 minutes, Monday through Friday, and every 15 minutes weekends and public holidays. The last bus is 7:30pm Monday to Thursday, 9pm Friday, and 7pm weekends/holidays.

The Blue CAT runs north-south, between Northbridge and Barrack Street Jetty every 8 minutes Monday to Friday. The last service is at 6:20pm Monday through Thursday, but Friday to Saturday it then runs every 15 minutes until 1am. Last bus Sunday is 7pm.

The Yellow CAT runs between East Perth and West Perth every 8 minutes weekdays, and every 15 minutes weekends. Last bus is 6:20pm Monday to Friday and 7pm weekends.

Perth Tram Co. tours are a good way to get around, too.

By Train

Trains are fast and clean. They start at about 5:30am and run every 15 minutes or more often during the day, and every half-hour at night until midnight (about 2am Fri and Sat nights). All trains depart from Perth Station or the adjacent Perth Underground Station. Buy your ticket before you board, at the vending machines on the platform. There are five lines: north to Clarkson (called the Joondalup Line); northeast to Midland; southeast to Armadale; southwest to Fremantle; and south to the resort town of Mandurah.

By Ferry

You can use ferries to visit South Perth and Perth Zoo. They run every half-hour or so, daily from 6:50am until 7:36pm (or until 9:30pm Fri-Sat in summer, Sept-Apr) between the Barrack Street Jetty and Mends Street in South Perth. Buy tickets before you board from the vending machine on the wharf. The trip takes approximately 7 minutes.

By Bike

You're allowed, even encouraged, to take your bicycle on Perth's suburban trains and ferries -- at no extra charge. You have to avoid the Monday to Friday peak services -- toward the city from 7 to 9am, and away from the city between 4 and 6:30pm -- and to not have your bike at Perth Station during these times.

By Taxi

Perth's two biggest taxi companies are Swan Taxis (tel. 13 13 30) and Black & White Taxis (tel. 13 10 08). Ranks (stands) are at Perth Railway Station and at the Barrack Street end of Hay Street Mall.

By Car

Perth's signposting is reasonably good for helping drivers find their way around. The major car-rental companies are Avis (tel. 08/9325 7677), Budget (tel. 08/9480 3111), Europcar (tel. 08/9226 0026), Hertz (tel. 08/9321 7777), and Thrifty (tel. 08/9225 4466). All except Hertz also have outlets in Fremantle.

Neighborhoods in Brief

City Center -- The central business district (CBD) is home to offices, shops, and department stores. It has a modest collection of 19th-century heritage buildings, especially the convict-built Government House and Town Hall. A good introduction to Perth's charms is to take in the views from the pathway that skirts the river along Riverside Drive. Within walking distance is Kings Park & Botanic Garden.

Northbridge -- Most of Perth's nightclubs, and a good many of its restaurants, bars, and cafes, are in this 5-block precinct north of the railway line. It's within easy walking distance of the city center. The Cultural Centre is here too, with the Western Australian Museum, Art Gallery of Western Australia, State Library, the stunning new State Theatre Centre, and Perth Institute of Contemporary Arts.

Subiaco -- This well-heeled inner suburb is on the other side of Kings Park. Take a stroll through "Subi's" village-like concoction of restaurants, cafes, markets, boutiques, pubs, and galleries. Most of the action is near the intersection of Hay Street and Rokeby (pronounced Rock-er-bee) Road, with the Subiaco Hotel and Art Deco Regal Theatre on opposing corners. Take the train to Subiaco station.

Fremantle -- Not only is "Freo" a working port, it's also Perth's second city heart, and a favorite weekend spot to eat, drink, shop, and sail. A 1980s restoration of Victorian warehouses and hotels turned Freo into a marvelous example of a 19th-century seaport, although a takeover of many buildings by Notre Dame University has taken away some of the old vibrancy. Take the train 19km (12 miles) to Fremantle, at the mouth of the Swan River.

Scarborough Beach -- This is one of Perth's prize beaches, 12km (7 1/2 miles) northwest of the city center. The district is a little tatty, with an oversupply of cheap takeout-food outlets, but if you like sun, sand, and surf, this is the place to be. You will find bars, restaurants, and surf-gear rental stores here.

Cottesloe Beach -- This is another great beach, quieter and safer than Scarborough, with a protective rocky groyne to one side. The surrounding area is very pleasant with grassy slopes, good hotels, and cafes, and the entire suburb is defined by towering Norfolk pines.

Burswood/East Perth -- These two areas are on opposite sides of the Swan River just upstream of Perth city. Both are on land reclaimed from earlier industrial use, and show enlightened development with parkland, pathways, and artworks. Burswood has major entertainment complexes, a public golf course, and superb gardens. East Perth is mostly modern housing, parks, galleries, and restaurants, based around a river inlet with walkways.

When to Go

Climate

South Western Australia is known for its sunshine and warm climate, and Perth lives up to the hype, boasting more sunny days per year than any other Australian state capital. Summers are hot, reaching up to 30°C–33°C (85°F–92°F) in January and February. Winters are mild and often still offer plenty of sunshine, with temperatures rarely dipping below 15°C (60°F), peaking at around 21°C (70°F) in both June and August.

Calendar of Events

Australia’s oldest and largest multi-arts festival hits Perth from February to March in the form of the Perth International Arts Festival, showcasing extensive dance, music, and visual arts programs. July sees the Revelation Perth International Film Festival (www.revelationfilmfest.org) screen a diverse range of cinematic works across the city. The Kings Park Festival celebrates the arrival of spring in September with a month of family events set among the park’s blossoming trees. Visit Perth in December for the highlight of the city’s social calendar, The Perth Cup thoroughbred horse race.