Planning a trip to Peru

Tips for Senior Travelers

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Regions in Brief

Peru shares borders with Ecuador and Colombia to the north, Brazil and Bolivia to the east, and Chile to the south. It lies just below the Equator and is the third-largest country in South America -- larger than France and Spain combined, covering an area of nearly 1,300,000 sq. km (500,000 sq. miles).

Peruvians like to say that their country consists of three distinct geological components: coast, sierra (highlands), and selva (jungle). The capital, Lima, lies on the coast, but the Amazon rainforest, which makes up nearly two-thirds of Peru, and the bold Andes mountain range dominate the country. Peru's considerable size, natural barriers, and a lack of efficient transportation alternatives make it a somewhat difficult and time-consuming place to get around.

The Central Coast & Highlands -- The Pacific coastal region is a narrow strip that runs from one end of the country to the other (a distance of some 2,200km/1,400 miles) and is almost entirely desert. Lima, the capital, lies about halfway down the coast. To the south, in one of the driest areas on earth, are Pisco, Ica, and Nasca, the cradle of several of Peru's most important ancient civilizations, as well as the famously mysterious Nasca Lines and the Ballestas Islands, promoted locally as "Peru's Galápagos" for their diverse indigenous fauna. The area is especially prone to earthquakes, such as the devastating one that struck the region in August 2007. Inland and tucked high in the Central Andes, Ayacucho is one of Peru's most fascinating cities, known for its colonial churches and artisanship but less felicitously associated with the Shining Path terrorist group.

Cusco & The Sacred Valley -- The dramatic Andes mountains in south-central Peru contain the country's most famous sights, including the former Inca capital of Cusco and scenic highland villages that run the length of the beautiful Sacred Valley. The valley is dotted with singularly impressive Inca ruins, of which Machu Picchu (and the Inca Trail leading to it) is undoubtedly the star. Cusco sits at an elevation of some 3,400m (11,000 ft.). Indigenous culture is particularly strong in the region.

Southern Peru -- Massive Lake Titicaca, shared with Bolivia, is the largest lake in South America and the world's highest navigable body of water (at 3,830m/12,566 ft.). Indigenous peoples inhabit ancient villages on islands (some of them man-made) in the middle of this huge body of water. Puno, at the edge of Lake Titicaca, is a rough-and-tumble town that hosts some of Peru's liveliest festivals. The elegant colonial city of Arequipa is one of Peru's most gorgeously situated, at the base of three snowcapped volcanoes. Nearby is Colca Canyon, twice as deep as the Grand Canyon and site of perhaps the best place in all South America to view the regal condor.

Amazonia -- Although about 60% of Peru is Amazon rainforest, only about 5% of the country's human inhabitants reside there. One of the world's most dazzling arrays of wildlife -- more than 1,700 species of birds (more than the population found in the continental U.S.) and 2,000 species of fish -- make it their home. For the visitor, there are two primary jungle destinations. The northern jungle, of which Iquitos is the principal gateway (but accessible only by plane or boat), is the most explored and has the most facilities. Much less trafficked and more controlled is the Madre de Dios department, in the south, which contains Manu Biosphere Reserve, Puerto Maldonado, and Tambopata National Reserve. These can be reached by land or air from Cusco.

Northern Peru -- Peru's north is much less visited than the south, even though it possesses some of the country's most outstanding archaeological sights. Trujillo, Chiclayo, and Cajamarca (a lovely small city in the highlands) are the main colonial towns of interest. Near Trujillo and Chiclayo are Chan Chan, Túcume, and Sipán, extraordinary adobe cities, pyramids, and royal tombs and treasures that predate the Incas.

The mountain ranges in the center of Peru, north of Lima, are among the highest in Peru. Within Huascarán National Park, the Cordillera Blanca stretches 200km (124 miles) and contains a dozen peaks more than 5,000m (16,400 ft.) tall; the highest is Huascarán, at 6,768m (22,205 ft.). The region is a favorite of trekkers and outdoor-adventure travelers who come to Peru with white-water rafting, ice climbing, and other sports in mind. The main jumping-off point for these activities is the town of Huaraz. In valleys east of the capital is the important archaeological site Chavín de Huántar.

Also in Northern Peru are unassuming beach towns where the waves attract surfers from across the globe; Máncora, Órganos, and Punta Sal are among the most popular among a 25km (15-mile) stretch of coast. They are getting increasingly built up into low-key resorts with hotels and second home owners from Lima.

Peru's UNESCO World Heritage Sites

• Cusco city (designated in 1983)
• Machu Picchu Historic Sanctuary (1983)
• Archaeological Site of Chavín (1985)
• Huascarán National Park (1985)
• Manu National Park (1987)
• Chan Chan Archaeological Zone (1988)
• Río Abiseo National Park (1990)
• Historic Center of Lima (1991)
• Nasca Lines (1994)
• Historic Center of Arequipa (2000)

Staying Connected

Internet & Wi-Fi: The availability of the Internet across Peru is in a constant state of development. How you access it depends on whether you’ve brought your own laptop, tablet, or smartphone, or if you’re searching for a public terminal. Internet access is plentiful, particularly in the form of free high-speed Wi-Fi, which is available in most hotels, cafes in larger cities, and airports. Cybercafes (cafés Internet, or cabinas) can still be found in some areas, though they are not nearly as prevalent as they once were. Most hotels will have at least one public computer.

If you have your own computer or smartphone, Wi-Fi makes access much easier. Always check before using your hotel’s network—many charge exorbitant rates, and free or cheap Wi-Fi isn’t hard to find elsewhere, in urban locations, at least. Ask locally, or even Google “free Wi-Fi + [town]” before you arrive.

Savvy smartphone users from overseas may call using Wi-Fi in combination with a Skype (www.skype.com) account and mobile app.

Where Are You @? -- The @ symbol is hard to find on a Latin American keyboard. You must keep your finger on the "Alt" key, and then press "6" and "4" on the number pad to the right. If you're still unsuccessful and at an Internet cafe, ask the assistant to help you type an arroba.

Mobile Phones

The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a seamless satellite network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout most of the planet. If your cellphone is unlocked and on a GSM system, you can make and receive calls throughout much of Peru. (Mobile coverage in Peru, even in rural areas, is surprisingly good.) Just call your wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high.

There are other options if you’re visiting from overseas but don’t own an unlocked GSM phone. For a short visit, renting a phone may be a good idea, and we suggest renting the handset before you leave home. North Americans can rent from iRoam (https://personal.iroam.com; tel. 866/454-7626). You can also rent an inexpensive cellphone once you touch down in Peru. In the International Arrivals terminal of Lima’s Jorge Chávez International Airport (as you enter the baggage carousels area), you’ll find young representatives of Peru Rent-a-Cell (tel. 01/517-1856) offering inexpensive cellphones and plans (around $10 for the phone, up to a month, and incoming calls are free).

Per-minute charges for international calls can be high whatever network you choose, so if you plan to do a lot of calling home, use a VoIP service like Skype (www.skype.com) in conjunction with a web connection. See “Internet & Wi-Fi,” above.

Getting There

By Plane

All overseas flights from North America and Europe arrive at Lima’s Aeropuerto Internacional Jorge Chávez (www.lap.com.pe; tel. 01/517-3100; airport code LIM). Major international airlines from North and South America, Europe, and Asia fly to Lima. Lima is a hub city for LATAM Airlines (www.latam.com; tel. 866/435-9526 in the U.S., or 01/213-8200), which has flights throughout Latin America as well as multiple destinations around North America and Europe. LAN flights also connect to Australia, New Zealand, and Tahiti through Chile. North American carriers have direct flights between Lima and cities including Atlanta, Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, Newark, Orlando, and Toronto. They include American Airlines (www.aa.com; tel. 800/221-1212 in the U.S., or 01/211-9211), Air Canada (www.aircanada.com; tel. 01/626-0900), Avianca (www.avianca.com; tel. 01/213-6060), Copa (www.copaair.com; tel. 01/709-2600), Delta (www.delta.com; tel. 01/211-3250), JetBlue (www.jetblue.com; tel. 01/517-2764), Spirit (www.spirit.com; tel. 212/641-9131), and United (www.united.com; tel. 01/712-9230).

Spanish carrier Iberia (www.iberia.com; tel. 01/411-7801) offers flights between Lima and Madrid, sometimes with partners like British Airways or KLM that connect to Amsterdam, Paris, and London.

Within Peru, it’s very important to reconfirm airline tickets in advance. For domestic flights, reconfirm 48 hours in advance; for international flights, reconfirm 72 hours before traveling (and be sure to arrive at the airport a minimum of 2 hr. in advance). Airport taxes are now included in the fares of tickets on both domestic flights and international flights. For domestic and international flight information, visit www.lap.com.pe or call tel. 01/517-3100. Connecting flights to other cities in Peru depart from the same terminal.

By Bus

You can travel over land to Peru through Ecuador, Bolivia, or Chile. Although the journey isn’t short, Lima can be reached from major neighboring cities. If traveling from Quito or Guayaquil, you’ll pass through the major northern coastal cities on the way to Lima. From Bolivia, there is frequent service from La Paz and Copacabana to Puno and then on to Cusco. From Chile, most buses travel from Arica to Tacna, making connections to either Arequipa or Lima.

The most common overland trip to Peru from a neighboring country is La Paz, Bolivia, to Puno (about 5 hr.), on the banks of Lake Titicaca (which is partly in Peru and partly in Bolivia). Ormeño (www.grupo-ormeno.com.pe; tel. 01/472-5000) travels to La Paz as well as Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Chile, and Argentina.

By Cruise Ship

While cruises stopping in Peru are still quite few, the industry is growing. There are several ports along the Peruvian coasts where large cruise liners make stops, including the port of Callao in Lima and the port of San Martín at Paracas. Most cruises are part of extended trips that run along the Pacific coast of South America, including lengthy routes that round Cape Horn in southern Chile or cross the Panama Canal. Cruise lines include Celebrity (www.celebritycruises.com), Holland America (www.hollandamerica.com), NCL (www.ncl.com), Princess (www.princess.com), and Silversea (www.silversea.com).

Tips for Women Travelers

Peru continues to be a very macho, male-dominated society. Although women are a growing part of the professional workforce and a relatively recent feminist movement is evident in urban areas, women do not yet occupy the (still unequal) position they do in many Western societies. Still, women should not encounter any insurmountable difficulties traveling in Peru.

However, women should not be surprised to encounter perhaps unwelcome attention from men, especially if traveling alone. Many Peruvian men consider gringas -- essentially, any foreign women -- to be more sexually open than Peruvian women; thus, foreigners are frequently the targets of their advances. Blonde women are frequently singled out. Piropos, come-ons that are usually meant as innocuous compliments rather than as crude assessments of a woman's physical attractiveness or sexuality, are common in Latin America. However, comments can occasionally be crude and demeaning, and groping is not unheard of in public places (such as on crowded buses). Sexual assaults are rare, but the threat felt by some women, especially if they do not comprehend the Spanish slang employed in come-ons, is understandable.

Many men, as well as Peruvian women, might be curious about why a woman isn't married or traveling with a boyfriend. A woman traveling alone could elicit comments of sympathy or even pity. Wearing a ring on your wedding finger and deflecting comments and advances with a story about your husband working in Lima and meeting you in 2 days (or something to that effect) could be a useful tactic. In general, the problem is much more pronounced in large cities than in small towns and the countryside. Amerindian populations are conservative and even shy in dealing with foreigners, including women.

Women on the receiving end of catcalls and aggressive come-ons should do what Peruvian women do: Ignore them. If that doesn't succeed, contact the tourist police. Although some Peruvian men might be innocently interested in meeting a foreign woman, it is not a good idea to accept an invitation to go anywhere alone with a man.

Women traveling in a group with other females, or especially with a man, are less likely to attract unwanted attention from men. Although I would hesitate to tell a woman friend that she should not travel alone in Peru, traveling with even one other woman might feel like a safer situation for many women, at least psychologically. If you are traveling alone, never walk alone at night anywhere -- always call for a registered taxi. It's also a good idea to have a whistle handy; a piercing sound blast will deter almost any aggressor.

Visitor Information

Within Peru, there's a 24-hour tourist information line, iPerú (tel. 01/574-8000. Peru doesn't maintain national tourism offices abroad, so your best official source of information before you go is www.peru.travel, the website of Prom Perú (Commission for the Promotion of Peru). Other helpful trip-planning websites include www.embassyofperu, the Embassy of Peru in Washington, D.C.

The Tourist Protection Bureau (Servicio de Protección al Turista), which handles complaints and questions about consumer rights, operates a 24-hour traveler's assistance line at tel. 0800/42-579, or 01/224-7888 in Lima.

Getting Around

Because of its size and natural barriers, including difficult mountain terrain, long stretches of desert coast, and extensive rainforest, Peru is complicated to navigate. Train service is very limited, covering only a few principal tourist routes, and many trips take several days by land. Visitors with limited time tend to fly everywhere they can. Travel overland, though very inexpensive, can be extremely time-consuming and uncomfortable. However, for certain routes, inter-city buses are your only real option.

By Plane

Flying to major destinations within Peru, including Cusco, is the only practical way around the country if you want to see several places in a couple of weeks or less. Peru is deceptively large, and natural barriers make getting around difficult. Most major Peruvian cities can be reached by air, though not always directly. Flying to major destinations, such as Lima or Cusco, is simple and relatively inexpensive. One-way flights to most destinations are between $200 and $650. Prices fluctuate according to the season.

Peru’s carriers, some of which are small airlines with limited flight schedules, include LATAM (www.latam.com; tel. 212/582-3250 in the U.S., or 01/213-8200 in Lima); LC Peru (www.lcperu.pe; tel. 01/204-1313); Peruvian Airlines (www.peruvian.pe; tel. 01/716-6000); Star Perú (www.starperu.com; tel. 01/705-9000); and Avianca (www.avianca.com; tel. 01/511-8222). All airlines fly in and out of Lima. LATAM is the airline that flies to most major destinations in Peru (Arequipa, Cajamarca, Chiclayo, Cusco, Iquitos, Lima, Piura, Pucallpa, Puerto Maldonado, Tacna, Tarapoto, Trujillo, and Tumbes), while Peruvian Airlines, Star Perú, LC Peru, and Avianca all fly between Lima and Cusco, as well as a few other select routes.

Connections through Lima are often necessary, although a few destinations are accessible directly from Cusco, such as Arequipa, Juliaca, and Puerto Maldonado. Some routes might be limited to only certain days or are seasonal. Flight schedules and fares are apt to change frequently and without notice. One-way fares are generally half the round-trip fare. Flights should be booked several days or weeks in advance, especially in high season, and make sure that you get to the airport at least 1 hour in advance to avoid being bumped from a flight.

By Train

By far the most popular train routes in Peru connect Cusco, the Sacred Valley, and Machu Picchu. The train to Machu Picchu is a truly spectacular journey. The two competing tourist train companies, IncaRail and PeruRail, primarily travel from Ollantaytambo, though some extensions can be made to Cusco or Urubamba. For prices and schedules of these and all Cusco and Sacred Valley trains, see chapters 7 and 8. There are no train passes like you might find in Europe. Additionally, PeruRail operates luxury sleeper trains to Puno and Arequipa.

For additional information, contact PeruRail (www.perurail.com; tel. 01/612-6700 in Lima, 084/581-414 in Cusco) or IncaRail (www.incarail.com; tel. 084/233-030 in Cusco).

By Bus

Buses are the cheapest and most popular form of transportation in Peru—for many Peruvians, they are the only means of getting around—and they have by far the greatest reach. A complex network of private bus companies criss-crosses Peru, with many competing lines covering the most popular routes. Many companies operate their own bus stations, and their locations, dispersed across many cities, can be endlessly frustrating to travelers. Luggage theft is an issue on many economy-class buses; passengers should keep a watchful eye on carry-on items and pay close attention when bags are unloaded. Only a few long-distance companies have luxury buses comparable in comforts to European models (bathrooms, reclining seats, movies, Wi-Fi). These premium-class buses cost up to twice as much as regular-service buses, although for many travelers, the additional comfort and services are worth the difference in cost (which remains inexpensive).

For many short distances (such as Cusco to Pisac), colectivos (smaller buses without assigned seats) are the fastest and cheapest option.

Ormeño (www.grupo-ormeno.com.pe; tel. 01/472-5000), Cruz del Sur (www.cruzdelsur.com.pe; tel. 01/311-5050), Oltursa (www.oltursa.com.pe; tel. 01/708-5000), and Transportes Civa (www.civa.com.pe; tel. 01/418-1111) are the bus companies with the best reputations for long-distance treks. Given the extremely confusing nature of bus companies, terminals, and destinations—which makes it impossible to even begin to list every possible option here—it is best to approach a local tourism information office or travel agency (most of which sell long-distance bus tickets) with a destination in mind and let the office direct you to the terminal for the best service (and, if possible, book the ticket for you).

By Car

Getting around Peru by rental car isn’t the easiest or best option for the great majority of travelers. It is also far from the cheapest in most cases. Distances are long, the terrain is either difficult or unrelentingly boring for long stretches along the desert coast, roads are often not in very good condition, Peruvian drivers are aggressive, and accident rates are very high. The U.S. State Department warns against driving in Peru, particularly at night or alone on rural roads at any time of day. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is the best option in many places, but trucks and jeeps are exceedingly expensive for most travelers.

However, if you want maximum flexibility and independence for travels in a particular region (say, to get around the Sacred Valley outside of Cusco, or to visit the beaches and towns south of Lima along the coast) and you have several people to share the cost with you, a rental car could be a decent option. By no means should you plan to rent a car in Lima and head off for the major sights across the country; you’ll spend all your time in the car. It is much more feasible to fly or take a bus to a given destination and rent a car there. The major international rental agencies are found in Lima, and a handful of international and local companies operate in other cities, such as Cusco. Costs average between $25 and $80 per day, plus 18% insurance, for an economy-size vehicle.

To rent a car, you need to be at least 25 years old and have a valid driver’s license and passport. Deposit by credit card is usually required. Driving under the influence of alcohol or drugs is a criminal offense. Major rental companies in Peru include Alamo (www.alamo.com; tel. 01/575-1111); Avis (www.avis.com; tel. 01/444-0450); Budget (www.budgetperu.com; tel. 01/517-1880); Hertz (www.hertz.com.pe; tel. 01/517-2402); and Thrifty (www.thriftyperu.com; tel. 01/484-0749). Taxes are included in the price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons.

For mechanical assistance, contact the Touring Automóvil Club del Perú (Touring Club of Peru) in Lima at www.touring.pe or tel. 01/611-9999.

Combi or Carro? Getting Around in & out of Town

Getting around Peru demands a mastery of terms that designate varied modes of transportation and a bewildering array of vehicles that aren’t always easy to distinguish.

Within cities, travelers have several options. The most convenient are taxis, which function, for the most part, like taxis elsewhere in the world. However, taxis in Peru are wholly unregulated; in addition to registered, licensed taxis, you’ll find "taxi" drivers who are merely folks with access to a two-bit car—usually rented for the purpose—and a taxi sticker to plunk inside the windshield. In Lima, this is overwhelmingly the case, and unregistered taxi drivers can be difficult to negotiate with for a fair price. There are no meters, meaning that you have to negotiate a price before (not after) accepting a ride. In other cities, such as Cusco, taxis conform to standard pricing (S/3–S/8 within town), so taking cabs outside of Lima is a considerably less daunting proposition for most travelers. An alternative in Lima is to download smartphone apps like Uber (www.uber.com) or Easy Taxi (www.easytaxi.com), which are safe, use GPS so they are rarely lost, and fix prices by distance, eliminating the need to haggle, saving a considerable amount of frustration and money.

Combis are vans that function as private bus services. They often race from one end of town to another, with fare collectors hanging out the door barking the name of the route. Combis also cover routes between towns. These are being phased out in Lima. Colectivos are sometimes indistinguishable from combis—they are vans, or at times, station wagons, that cover regular routes (such as between Cusco and Pisac), and they usually depart when they’re full. Routes are often so popular, though, that colectivos leave regularly, as often as every 15 minutes, throughout the day.

For inter-city transport, there is a similar slate of options. Micros are small buses, often old and quite colorful, that travel between cities. Both colectivos and micros are crowded, have a reputation for pickpockets, and can be hailed at any place along the street without regard for bus stops. You pay a cobrador (money collector), who usually hangs out at the door barking destinations at would-be travelers, rather than the driver.

Autobuses (also called buses or omnibuses) are large coaches for long-distance travel on scheduled inter-city routes. Classes of buses are distinguished by price and comfort: Económico is a bare-bones bus with little more than a driver and an assigned seat; classes designated especial (or sometimes Inka) have reclining seats, videos, refreshments, Wi-Fi, and bathrooms.

As if that complex web of terms wasn’t enough, there’s an additional warning to heed: It’s not uncommon to hear locals refer—loosely and confusingly—to buses as carros (which normally just means “car”) and to colectivos as taxis.

Tips on Accommodations

A wide range of places to stay—including world-class luxury hotels in modern high-rise buildings and 16th-century monasteries and manor houses, affordable small hotels in colonial houses, rustic rural lodges, and inexpensive budget inns—can be found in Peru. Mid-range options have expanded in recent years, but the large majority of accommodations still court budget travelers and backpackers (outside Lima’s hosting of international business travelers).

Those places go by many names in Peru. Hotel generally refers only to comfortable hotels with a range of services, but hostal (or hostales, plural) is used for a wide variety of smaller hotels, inns, and pensions. (Note that hostal is distinct from the English-language term “hostel.”) At the lower end are mostly hospedajes, pensiones, and residenciales. However, these terms are often poor indicators—if they are indicators at all—of an establishment’s quality or services. Required signs outside reflect these categories: H (hotel), HS (hostal), HR (hotel residencial), and P (pensión). As in most countries, the government’s hotel-rating system means that establishments are awarded stars for the presence of certain criteria—a pool, restaurant, elevator, and so on—more than for standards of luxury. Thus, it is not always true that the hotel with the most stars is necessarily the most comfortable or elegant. Luxury hotels were once exceedingly rare outside Lima, Cusco, and Machu Picchu, but that is no longer the case; budget accommodations are plentiful across the country, and many of them are quite good for the price. Some represent amazing values at less than $60 a night for a double—with a dose of local character and breakfast, to boot. (Most hotels in Peru include breakfast in their rates. Breakfast may range from a huge buffet—and not just at the largest and most luxurious hotels—to a continental breakfast or more austere, European-style breakfast of coffee, bread, and jam.)

The great majority of hotels in Peru are small and midsize independent inns; few international hotel chains operate in Peru. You’ll find a handful of Marriott and Belmond hotels here and there, but by and large the chains you’ll come into contact with are Peruvian. The most prominent, although they have only a handful of hotels each, are Casa Andina, Aranwa, and Libertador. Casa Andina and Tierra Viva hotels are comfortable, decorated similarly, and generally good values. Casa Andina also has an upscale line of Premium hotels in a few choice spots. The Libertador hotels are elegant four- and five-star establishments, largely in historic buildings, as are Aranwa.

In-room air-conditioning isn’t as common, especially in lower-priced and moderately priced inns and hotels, as it is in many countries. In highland towns, such as Cusco, that’s not usually a problem, as even in warmer months it gets pretty cool at night. In coastal towns it gets considerably warmer, though most hotels that don’t offer air-conditioning units have ceiling or other fans. If you’re concerned about having air-conditioning in your room in a warmer destination, it may be necessary to bump up to a more expensive hotel.

Advance reservations are strongly recommended during high season (June–Oct) and during national holidays and important festivals. This is especially true of hotels in the middle and upper categories in popular places such as Cusco and Machu Picchu. Many hotels quote their rates in U.S. dollars. If you pay in cash, the price will be converted into soles at the going rate. Note that at many budget and many mid-range hotels, credit cards are not accepted. Most published rates can be negotiated, and travelers can often get greatly reduced rates outside of peak season simply by asking.

Hotel taxes and service charges are an issue that has caused some confusion in recent years. Most upper-level hotels add a 19% general sales tax (IGV) and a 10% service charge to the bill. However, foreigners who can demonstrate they live outside of Peru are not charged the 19% tax (though they are responsible for the 10% service charge). In practice, hotels sometimes either mistakenly or purposely include the IGV on everyone’s bill; presentation of a passport is sufficient to have the tax deducted from your tab. Many hotels—usually those at the midlevel and lower ranges—simplify matters by including the tax in their rates; at these establishments, you cannot expect to have the tax removed from your charges. At high-end hotels, be sure to review your bill and ask for an explanation of additional taxes and charges. Prices in this book do not include taxes and service charges unless otherwise noted. Breakfast and Wi-Fi is often included in the price, but check with the hotel before booking if either perk is important to you. The reviews in this book indicate when a hotel offers free Wi-Fi, but keep in mind that this is subject to change, as is the range of fees among hotels that charge for Wi-Fi access.

Safety can be an issue at some hotels, especially at the lower end, and extreme care should be taken with regard to personal belongings left in the hotel. Leaving valuables lying around is asking for trouble. Except for hotels at the lowest levels, most have safety deposit boxes. (Usually only luxury hotels have room safes.) Place your belongings in a carefully sealed envelope. If you arrive in a town without previously arranged accommodations, you should be minimally wary of taxi drivers and others who insist on showing you to a hotel. Occasionally, these provide excellent tips, but in general, they merely take you to a place where they are confident they can earn a commission.

A final precaution worth mentioning is the electric heater found on many showerheads. These can be dangerous at times, and touching them while functioning can prompt an unwelcome electric jolt.

Turning to the Internet or Apps for a Hotel Discount

It’s possible to get a good deal by calling a hotel, but you’re more likely to snag a discount online or using an app. Here are some strategies:

1. Browse extreme discounts on sites where you reserve or bid for lodgings without knowing which hotel you’ll get. You’ll find these on Priceline.com and Hotwire.com, and they can be money-savers, particularly if you’re booking within a week of travel (that’s when the hotels get nervous and often offer deep discounts). These sites feature major chains, so it’s unlikely you’ll book a dump.

2. Review discounts on the hotel’s website. The hotels give the lowest rates to those who book through their sites rather than through a third party. But you’ll only find these truly deep discounts in the loyalty section of these sites—so join the club.

3. Use the right hotel search engine. They’re not all equal, as we at Frommers.com learned in the spring of 2017 after putting the top 20 sites to the test in 20 destinations around the globe. We discovered that Booking.com listed the lowest rates for hotels in the city center, and in the under $200 range, 16 out of 20 times—the best record, by far, of all the sites we tested. And Booking.com includes all taxes and fees in its initial results (not all do, which can make for a frustrating shopping experience). For top-end properties, again in the city center, both Priceline.com and HotelsCombined.com came up with the best rates, tying at 14 wins each.

For car rentals, we highly recommend AutoSlash.com over other online car rental services. It applies every available coupon on the market to the booking, yielding surprisingly low daily rates. And if the cost of a rental drops, it automatically rebooks renters, again lowering the price.

Tips for Student Travelers

Never leave home without your student I.D. card. Visitors from overseas should arm themselves with an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which offers local savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and much more. Each country’s card offers slightly different benefits (in the U.S., for example, it provides you with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour helpline). Apply before departing in your country of origin. In the U.S. or Canada, visit www.myisic.com; in Australia, www.isiccard.com.au; in New Zealand, www.isiccard.co.nz. U.K. students should carry their NUS card. If you’re no longer a student but are still younger than 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC), which entitles you to a more limited range of discounts.

Health & Safety

Dietary Distress

Visitors should drink only bottled water, which is widely available. Do not drink tap water, even in major hotels, and try to avoid drinks with ice. If you're trekking in the mountains or visiting remote rural areas where bottled water is not available, boil water to purify it or use water-purification tablets. Carry bottled water with you at all times (especially on long bus or train rides); the heat of the desert and the high altitudes of the Andes will dehydrate you very quickly.

You're safer eating fruits that you can peel or salads and fruits washed with purified water, as well as foods that have been thoroughly cooked. Shellfish should be avoided by most; although ceviche is one of Peru's classic dishes, travelers should at least know that the fish and shellfish in it are not cooked, but marinated. That said, many, if not most, travelers eat it with few or no problems. (Your best bet is to eat ceviche only at clean, upscale places.) Vegetarian restaurants can be found in most cities (look for branches of the chain Govinda in the largest cities). If no vegetarian restaurant is available, most others will be able to accommodate you with salads, fruits, and vegetables such as papas (potatoes) and palta (avocado), although palta rellena is usually stuffed with chicken or tuna.

Health

No vaccinations are officially required of travelers to Peru, but you are wise to take certain precautions, especially if you are planning to travel to jungle regions. A yellow-fever vaccine is strongly recommended for trips to the Amazon. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (www.cdc.gov; tel. 800/311-3435) warns that there is a risk of malaria and yellow fever in Lima and the highland tourist areas (Cusco, Machu Picchu, and Lake Titicaca).

Visitors should drink only bottled water, which is widely available. Do not drink tap water, even in major hotels. Try to avoid drinks with ice. Agua con gas is carbonated; agua sin gas is still.

As a tropical South American country, Peru presents certain health risks and issues, but major concerns are limited to those traveling outside urban areas and to the Amazon jungle. The most common ailments for visitors to Peru are common traveler’s diarrhea; altitude sickness, or acute mountain sickness (AMS), called soroche locally; sun exposure; and dietary distress.

North American visitors can contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; www.iamat.org; tel. 716/754-4883, or 416/652-0137 in Canada) for tips on travel and health concerns. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (www.cdc.gov; tel. 888/232-6348) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country. If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. All visitors with such conditions as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems should consider wearing a MedicAlert Identification Tag (www.medicalert.org; www.medicalert.org.uk in the U.K.; tel. 888/633-4298 or 209/668-3333), which will alert doctors to your condition if you become ill, and give them access to your records through MedicAlert’s 24-hour hotline.

Deep vein thrombosis, or as it’s known in the world of flying, “economy-class syndrome,” is a blood clot that develops in a deep vein. It’s a potentially deadly condition that can be caused by sitting in cramped conditions—such as an airplane cabin—for too long. During a flight (especially a long-haul flight), get up, walk around, and stretch your legs every 60 to 90 minutes to keep your blood flowing. Other preventative measures include frequent flexing of the legs while sitting, drinking lots of water, and avoiding alcohol and sleeping pills. If you have a history of deep vein thrombosis, heart disease, or another condition that puts you at high risk, some experts recommend wearing compression stockings or taking anticoagulants when you fly; always ask your family doctor about the best course for you. Symptoms of deep vein thrombosis include leg pain or swelling, or even shortness of breath.

Insurance

U.S. visitors should note that most domestic health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage abroad, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you after you return home. Try United Health Care SafeTrip (www.uhcsafetrip.com; tel. 800/732-5309) or Travel Assistance International (www.travelassistance.com; tel. 800/821-2828) for overseas medical insurance coverage. Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (www.hc-sc.gc.ca; tel. 866/225-0709) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

For general travel insurance, it’s wise to consult one of the price comparison websites before making a purchase. U.S. visitors can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com (tel. 800/487-4722). Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information for prices from several providers. For U.K. travelers, Moneysupermarket (www.moneysupermarket.com) compares prices and coverage across a bewildering range of single- and multi-trip options. For all visitors, it’s also worth considering trip-cancellation insurance, which will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and travel advisories.

Dentists

The best dentists are found in Lima, and some offices specialize in foreign visitors looking for work done that is more inexpensive than their home countries and therefore have English-speaking staff. Try Peru Dental, at 355 Monterrey St., 4th Floor, Chacarilla (www.perudental.com; tel. 01/202-2222) or Smiles Peru, at Av. José Prado 575, office 201 in Miraflores (www.smilesperu.com; tel. 01/242-2152).

Doctors

Skilled doctors and modern health-care facilities can be found primarily in Lima and other cities in Peru. In Lima, some of the major hospitals and clinics with English-speaking medical personnel and 24-hour emergency services include Clínica Anglo-Americana, Alfredo Salazar, Block 3, San Isidro (tel. 01/712-3000); Clínica San Borja, Guardia Civil 337, San Borja (tel. 01/475-4000); and Clínica Ricardo Palma, Av. Javier Prado Este 1066, San Isidro (www.crp.com.pe; tel. 01/224-2224).

In Cusco, you will find English-speaking personnel at Hospital EsSalud, Av. Anselmo Álvarez s/n (tel. 084/237-341); Clínica Pardo, Av. de la Cultura 710 (tel. 084/624-186); Clinica San Jose, Av. Los Incas 1408 (tel. 084/232-295); and Mac Salud, Av. de la Cultura 1410 (www.macsalud.com; tel. 084/582-060).

You can also inquire at the U.S. and British embassies for lists of English-speaking doctors, dentists, and other health-care personnel in Lima.

If you need a non-emergency doctor, your hotel can recommend one, or contact your embassy or consulate. In any medical emergency, immediately call tel. 105.

Drug & Drinking Laws

Until recently, Peru was the world's largest producer of coca leaves, the base product that is mostly shipped to Colombia for processing into cocaine. Cocaine and other illegal substances are perhaps not as ubiquitous in Peru as some might think, although in Lima and Cusco, they are sometimes offered to foreigners. (This is especially dangerous; many would-be dealers also operate as police informants, and some are said to be undercover narcotics officers themselves.) Penalties for the possession and use of or trafficking in illegal drugs in Peru are strict; convicted offenders can expect long jail sentences and substantial fines. Peruvian police routinely detain drug smugglers at Lima's international airport and land-border crossings. Hundreds of U.S. citizens have been convicted of narcotics trafficking in Peru. If you are arrested on drug charges, you will face protracted pretrial detention in poor prison conditions. Coca leaves, either chewed or brewed for tea, are not illegal in Peru, where they’re not considered a narcotic. The use of coca leaves is an ancient tradition dating back to pre-Columbian civilizations in Peru. You might very well find that mate de coca (coca-leaf tea) is very helpful in battling altitude sickness. However, if you attempt to take coca leaves back to your home country from Peru, you should expect them to be confiscated, and you could even find yourself prosecuted. The hallucinogenic plants consumed in ayahuasca ceremonies are legal in Peru.

A legal drinking age is not strictly enforced in Peru, though officially it is 18. Anyone over the age of 16 is unlikely to have any problems ordering liquor in any bar or other establishment. Wine, beer, and alcohol are widely available—sold daily at grocery stores, liquor stores, and in all cafes, bars, and restaurants—and consumed widely, especially in public during festivals. There appears to be very little taboo associated with public inebriation at festivals.

Emergencies

In case of an emergency, call the 24-hour traveler’s hotline at tel. 01/574-8000, the general police emergency number at tel. 105, or the tourist police (POLTUR; tel. 01/460-1060). The Tourist Protection Service can assist in contacting police to report a crime; call tel. 01/224-7888 in Lima, or 0800/4-2579 toll-free from any private phone (the toll-free number cannot be dialed from a public pay phone).

Pharmacies

Prescriptions can be filled at farmacias and boticas; it’s best to know the generic name of your drug. For most health matters that are not serious, a pharmacist will be able to help and prescribe something. In the case of more serious health issues, contact your hotel, the tourist information office, or, in the most extreme case, your consulate or embassy for a doctor referral. Two of the biggest pharmacy chains, with locations in most cities, are Botica Fasa and InkaFarma. Hospitals with English-speaking doctors are listed under "Doctors" above.

Police

Losses, thefts, and other criminal matters should be reported to the nearest police station immediately. Peru has special tourist police forces (Policía Nacional de Turismo) with offices and personnel in all major tourist destinations, including Lima and Cusco, as well as a dozen other cities. You are more likely to get a satisfactory response, not to mention someone who speaks at least some English, from the tourist police rather than from the regular national police (PNP). The number for the tourist police in Lima is tel. 01/225-8698 or 01/225-8699. For other cities, see “Emergencies” above and “Fast Facts” in individual destination chapters. Tourist police officers are distinguished by their white shirts.

Safety

Peru’s reputation for safety among travelers has greatly improved and the country is more stable and safer than it has ever been. While some general warnings are required, for the most part, the majority of travelers will find Peru a very safe country with few of the overt threats to belongings or one’s person that are sadly common in many parts of the world. Hopefully, the following warnings will seem over-the-top to travelers who enjoy Peru without incident.

The most precautions, as in most countries, are required in the largest cities: principally Lima and, to a lesser extent, Cusco. In most heavily touristed places in Peru, though, a heightened police presence is noticeable. Simple theft and pickpocketing are not uncommon; assaults and robbery are rare. Most thieves look for moments when travelers, laden with bags and struggling with maps, are distracted. In downtown Lima and the city’s residential and hotel areas, there is a risk of street crime. Occasional carjackings and armed attacks at ATMs have been reported, but they are very isolated incidents. Use ATMs during the day, with other people present. Street crime and pickpocketing are most likely to occur—when they do—at crowded public markets and bus and train stations. You should be vigilant with belongings in these places and should not walk alone late at night on deserted streets. In major cities, taxis hailed on the street can lead to assaults. (Use telephone-dispatched radio taxis, especially at night.) Ask your hotel or restaurant to call a cab, or use Uber or Easy Taxi, which have security protocol. Travelers should exercise caution on public city transportation and on long-distance buses, where thieves have been known to employ any number of strategies to relieve passengers of their bags. You need to be vigilant, even to the extreme of locking backpacks and suitcases to luggage racks.

In general, do not wear expensive jewelry; keep expensive camera equipment out of view as much as possible; use a money belt worn inside your pants or shirt to safeguard cash, credit cards, and passport. Wear your daypack on your chest rather than your back when walking in crowded areas. The time to be most careful is when you have most of your belongings on your person—such as when you’re in transit from airport or train or bus station to your hotel. At airports, it’s best to spend a little more for official airport taxis; if in doubt, request the driver’s official ID. Don’t venture beyond airport grounds for a street taxi. Have your hotel call a taxi for your trip to the airport or bus station.

Peru’s terrorist past seems to be behind it. The terrorist activities of the local insurgency groups Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path) and MRTA (Tupac Amaru Revolutionary Movement)—which together waged a 2-decade guerrilla war against the Peruvian state, killing more than 30,000 people—were effectively stamped out in the early 1990s. It has now been years since there were significant concerns about a possible resurgence of those groups. Though it remains a situation worth watching, to date the most populous (and traveled) regions of the country have not been affected, and neither group is currently active in any of the areas covered in this book.

Smoking

Smoking is still quite common in Peru, despite a widespread smoke-free policy implemented in 2011. In major cities such as Lima or Cusco, it is difficult to find smoky restaurants or hotels. In rural areas, the laws are less enforced.

When to Go

Peak travel season for foreigners is in great part determined by weather. Peru experiences two very distinct seasons, wet and dry -- terms that are much more relevant than "summer" and "winter." Peru's high season for travel coincides with the driest months: May through October, with by far the greatest number of visitors in July and August. May and September are particularly fine months to visit much of the country. Airlines and hotels also consider the period from mid-December through mid-January as peak season.

From June to September (winter in the Southern Hemisphere) in the highlands, days are clear and often spectacularly sunny, with chilly or downright cold nights, especially at high elevations. For trekking in the mountains, including the Inca Trail, these are by far the best months. This is also the best time of the year to visit the Amazon basin: Mosquitoes are fewer, and many fauna stay close to the rivers (although some people prefer to travel in the jungle during the wet season, when higher water levels allow for more river penetration). Note that Peruvians travel in huge numbers around July 28, the national holiday, and finding accommodations in popular destinations around this time can be difficult.

Climate

Generally, May through October is the dry season; November through April is the rainy season, and the wettest months are January through April. In mountain areas, roads and trek paths can become impassable. Peru's climate, though, is markedly different among its three regions. The coast is predominantly arid and mild, the Andean region is temperate to cold, and the eastern lowlands are tropically warm and humid.

On the desert coast, summer (Dec-Apr) is hot and dry, with temperatures reaching 77°F to 95°F (25°C-35°C) or more along the north coast. In winter (May-Oct), temperatures are much milder, though with high humidity. Much of the coast, including Lima, is shrouded in a gray mist called garúa. Only extreme northern beaches are warm enough for swimming.

In the highlands from May to October, rain is scarce. Daytime temperatures reach a warm 68°F to 77°F (20°C-25°C), and nights are often quite cold (near freezing), especially in June and July. Rainfall is very abundant from December to March, when temperatures are slightly milder -- 64°F to 68°F (18°C-20°C) dropping only to 59°F (15°C) at night. The wettest months are January and February. Most mornings are dry, but clouds move in during the afternoon and produce heavy downpours.

Although the Amazon jungle is consistently humid and tropical, with significant rainfall year-round, it, too, experiences two clearly different seasons. During the dry season (May-Oct), temperatures reach 86°F to 100°F (30°C-38°C) during the day. From November to April, there are frequent rain showers (which last only a few hours at a time), causing the rivers to swell; temperatures are similarly steamy.

Current Weather Conditions: The best place to head online for a detailed weather forecast is www.wunderground.com/global/PR.html.

When You’ll Find Bargains: The cheapest time to fly to Peru is usually during the off season: from late October to mid-December and from mid-January through April. Though that coincides with the rainy season in the highlands and jungle, it’s the peak of summer along the coast, and many Peruvians vacation in coastal resorts December through February. Remember that weekday flights are often cheaper than weekend fares.

Rates generally increase in June, then hit their peak in high travel seasons between July and September, and in December for the run-up to Christmas and New Year. July and August are also when most Europeans take their holidays, so besides higher prices, there are more crowds and more limited availability of the best hotel rooms.

You can avoid crowds, to some extent, by planning trips for October through April, though you should be mindful of the trade-off in weather conditions. In general, the shoulder seasons (April to June, late September through October) are the best combination of fewer crowds and relatively lower prices. Be mindful of major Peruvian holidays, particularly at places like Cusco and Machu Picchu, which are also major destinations for Peruvians as well as international travelers.

Public Holidays

National public holidays in Peru include New Year's Day (Jan 1), Three Kings Day (Jan 6), Maundy Thursday and Good Friday (Easter week, Mar or Apr), Labor Day (May 1), Fiestas Patrias (July 28-29), Battle of Angamos (Oct 8), All Saints' Day (Nov 1), Feast of the Immaculate Conception (Dec 8), and Christmas (Dec 24-25).

Check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

Tips on Shopping

Peru is one of the top shopping destinations in Latin America, with some of the finest and best-priced crafts anywhere. Its long traditions of textile weaving and colorful markets bursting with tourists have produced a dazzling display of alpaca-wool sweaters, blankets, ponchos, shawls, scarves, typical Peruvian hats, and other woven items. Peru's ancient indigenous civilizations were some of the world's greatest potters, and reproductions of Moche, Nasca, Paracas, and other ceramics are available. (Until recently, it was surprisingly easy to get your hands on the real thing, but that's no longer the case.) In some cities -- especially Lima, Cusco, and Arequipa -- antique textiles and ceramics are still available. Some dealers handle pieces that are 1,000 years old or more (and others simply claim their pieces are that old). However, exporting such pre-Columbian artifacts from Peru is illegal.

Lima and Cusco have the lion's share of tourist-oriented shops and markets -- particularly in Lima, you can find items produced all over the country -- but other places might be just as good for shopping. Locals in Puno and Taquile Island on Lake Titicaca produce spectacular textiles, and Arequipa is perhaps the best place in Peru to purchase very fine, extremely soft baby-alpaca items. Handcrafted retablos (altars) from Ayacucho, depicting weddings and other domestic scenes, are famous throughout Peru and are available across the country. The Shipibo tribe of the northern Amazon produces excellent hand-painted textiles and decorative pottery. You'll also see items in the jungle made from endangered species -- alligator skins, turtle shells, and the like. Purchasing these items is illegal, and it only encourages locals to further harm the natural environment and its inhabitants.

Baby alpaca and very rare vicuña are the finest woolens and are amazingly soft. Although many merchants are happy to claim that every woven wool item in their possession is alpaca or baby alpaca, much of what is sold in many tourist centers is anything but. Most, if not all, of the inexpensive, lookalike (S/15-S/60) sweaters, shawls, hats, and gloves you'll see in countless markets and stalls are made of acrylic or acrylic blends, and some even are blends of natural fibers and fiberglass. (A trekking guide in Cusco recently told me only partly in jest that you have to listen closely to people hawking cheap alpaca goods; they aren't saying "baby alpaca," but "may be alpaca.") If your new "alpaca" sweater stinks when it gets wet, it's llama wool. If you want the real thing -- which is not nearly as cheap but still much less expensive than what you'd pay for alpaca of such fine quality in other countries -- visit one of the established chain stores in large cities (most have "alpaca" in the name). Arequipa is one of the finest centers for alpaca goods, though Cusco and Lima are also excellent places to shop for alpaca.

The artesanía (popular arts) center par excellence of Peru is the highlands city of Ayacucho. The distinctive ceramic churches and retablos that are mainstays of handicrafts shops across Peru all come from Ayacucho (and a couple of small towns nearby), although a number of artisans have relocated to larger cities to more effectively market their wares.

In Lima, Cusco, and most tourist centers, there are scores of general, look-alike artesanía shops, and prices might not be any higher than what you'd find at street markets. At stores and in open markets, bargaining -- gentle, good-natured haggling over prices -- is accepted and even expected. However, when it gets down to ridiculously small amounts of money, it's best to recognize that you are already getting a great deal on probably handmade goods and you should relinquish the fight over a few soles.

Many prices for goods include a 19% sales tax, which, unfortunately, is refundable only on purchases made at the international departure lounge of Jorge Chávez International Airport.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn’t stop anyone from traveling. However, Peru is considerably less equipped for accessible travel than are most parts of North America and Europe. Comparatively few hotels are outfitted for travelers with disabilities, and only a few restaurants, museums, and means of public transportation make special accommodations for such patrons. There are few ramps, very few wheelchair-accessible bathrooms, and almost no telephones for the hearing-impaired. Though it continues to lag behind Europe and North America, Peru has been seeking to make its tourist infrastructure more accessible to people with disabilities. In 1998, Peru initiated a countrywide project targeting tourism establishments to improve facilities. Request a copy of “Tourism for the People with Disabilities: The First Evaluation of Accessibility to Peru's Tourist Infrastructure,” available from the Peruvian embassy in your home country, before your visit to Peru. The 99-page report features evaluations of hotels, restaurants, museums, attractions, airports, and other services in Lima, Cusco, Aguas Calientes, and beyond.

A helpful website for accessible travel in Peru is Accessible Travel Peru (http://accessibletravelperu.com), which offers tours and other information on accessible travel in Peru.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Apumayo Expediciones (www.apumayo.com; tel. 054/246-018) is way out in front in Peru, offering tours specifically designed for travelers with physical disabilities. Accessible Journeys (www.disabilitytravel.com; tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339) caters specifically to slow walkers and wheelchair travelers and their families and friends. InkaNatura Travel (www.inkanatura.com) is also particularly well equipped to deal with travelers with disabilities: Beyond the website’s specifics on Peru, it is an excellent resource with all kinds of general information and answers to frequently asked questions about traveling with disabilities.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports: Citizens of the United States, Canada, Great Britain, South Africa, New Zealand, and Australia do not require visas to enter Peru as tourists—only valid passports (your passport should be valid at least 6 months beyond your departure date from Peru, though in practice many travelers with as little as 3 months’ validity are frequently permitted entry). Citizens of any of these countries conducting business or enrolled in formal educational programs in Peru do require visas; contact the embassy or consulate in your home country for more information.

White tourist (or landing) cards, distributed on arriving international flights or at border crossings, are good for stays of up to 90 days. Keep a copy of the tourist card for presentation upon departure from Peru. (If you lose it, you’ll have to pay roughly a $5 fine.) A maximum of three extensions, at 30 days each for a total of 180 days, is allowed.

No immunizations are required for entry into Peru, although travelers planning to travel to jungle regions should see “Health & Safety."

Passport Offices:

• Australia: Australian Passport Information Service (www.passports.gov.au; tel. 131-232).
• Canada: Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (www.ppt.gc.ca; tel. 800/567-6868).
• Ireland: Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie; tel. 01/671-1633).
• New Zealand: Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 (www.passports.govt.nz; tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100).
• United Kingdom: Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (www.ips.gov.uk; tel. 0300/222-0000).
• United States: To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Customs: Exports of protected plant and endangered animal species—live or dead—are strictly prohibited by Peruvian law and should not be purchased. This includes headpieces and necklaces made with macaw feathers, unless authorized by the Natural Resources Institute (INRENA). Travelers have been detained and arrested by the Ecology Police for carrying such items. It is also illegal to take pre-Columbian archaeological items and antiques, including ceramics and textiles, and colonial-era art out of Peru. Reproductions of many such items are available, but even their export could cause difficulties at Customs or with overly cautious international courier services if you attempt to send them home. To be safe, look for the word “reproduction” or an artist’s name stamped on reproduction ceramics, and keep business cards and receipts from shops where you have purchased them. Particularly fine items might require documentation from Peru's National Institute of Culture, or INC (www.cultura.gob.pe), verifying that the object is a reproduction and may be exported. You might be able to obtain a certificate of authorization from the INC kiosk at Lima’s Jorge Chávez International Airport.

For information on what you’re allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (www.cbp.gov; tel. 877/287-8667).

Canadian citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca; tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500).

U.K. citizens: HM Customs & Excise (www.hmce.gov.uk; tel. 0845/010-9000, or from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152).

Australian citizens: Australian Customs Service (www.border.gov.au; tel. 1300/363-263).

New Zealand citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (www.customs.govt.nz; tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786).

Escorted & Package Tours

North America- and Europe-Based Companies

• Abercrombie & Kent  (tel. 800/554-7016; www.abercrombiekent.com) calls itself the "original luxury travel company." It runs an extensive lineup of high-end luxury trips, all of which are well managed and pampered, with stays in many of the finest hotels available. The tours aren't cheap, but if you want to go in style, A&K is the way to go. Group size is generally limited to 16 people. About a dozen Peru itineraries are available (such as the 9-day "Wonders of Peru," a family adventure, and combo trips with Bolivia and the Galápagos); check the website for occasional discounts on selected tours and dates.

• Adventure Life  (tel. 800/344-6118; www.adventure-life.com), based in Missoula, Montana, is an Andean specialist with a roster of a couple dozen interesting Peru trips that focus mainly on ecotours and adventure trips, including some to off-the-beaten-path destinations and a group service trip, although it also offers some cushy "hotel-based trips."

• Adventures Abroad Group (tel. 800/665-3998; www.adventures-abroad.com), with offices in Washington state as well as the U.K., Canada, Australia, and New Zealand, has a massive database of trips. The tour operator prides itself on small group travel, from 4 to 21 participants. Peruvian offerings are highlights tours, ranging from 7 to 21 days, but longer trips include features such as hiking the Inca Trail. Several trips combine either Ecuador or Bolivia with Peruvian attractions.

• Butterfield & Robinson (tel. 866/551-9090 or 800/6781-1477 in Europe; www.butterfield.com) is a top upscale tour company that promotes biking and walking trips. You'll stay at some of the country's finest hotels and will get full van support for any light adventure trips. To Peru, it offers an 8-day "Peru Walking" tour. Trips are top-of-the-line (with commensurate pricing).

• Exito Latin American Travel Specialists  (tel. 800/655-4053; www.exitotravel.com) has a limited number of Peru packages, including the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu and jungle lodge tours. It's also a very good source for finding discounted airfares to Peru and elsewhere in Latin America, as well as language programs.

• Gap Adventures (tel. 800/708-7761 or 0870/999-0144 in the U.K.; www.gapadventures.com), the "Great Adventure People," focuses on adventure-oriented "independent travel with the security of a group" in Central and South America. It offers a huge number and variety of Peru trips (190 or more with stops in Peru). Some trips are more comfortable; others are a bit edgier. Most group trips have a maximum of 12 travelers.

• Yampu Latin American Tours has offices in New York (tel. 888/YAMPU-01 [926-7801]; www.yampu.com), Stowe (VT), and London. These South American travel specialists offer a variety of Peru trips, including rainforest expeditions, spiritual sojourns, trekking and adventure-sports tours, and targeted cultural programs.

• Ladatco Tours (tel. 800/327-6162; www.ladatco.com) has specialized in tours to Central and South America for 3 decades. Its Explorer Tours are locally hosted and include hotels, sightseeing with an English-speaking guide, and all land, cruise, and air transportation. There are "Pampered Adventure" programs and custom-designed tours -- in all, more than two dozen trips to Peru throughout high season. Tours are a bit pricey but are well designed, and prices include airfare from Miami.

• Latin America Escapes, Inc. (tel. 800/510-5999; www.latinamericanescapes.com) is a California-based company that offers fully escorted trekking and adventure trips, cultural tours, and natural history programs in Peru, as well as customized trips with your own private guide and driver and fully hosted independent tours with all major details (transportation, hotels, and tours) included. Check the website for current specials.

• Nature Expeditions International (tel. 800/869-0639; www.naturexp.com) has a good reputation for package tours and has been in business since 1973. It offers a 10-day highlights trip to Lima, Cusco, the Sacred Valley, and Arequipa, as well as a 7-day trip to Lima, Cusco, and Machu Picchu. All trips have interesting, educational lecture options.

• Overseas Adventure Travel  (tel. 800/493-6824; www.oattravel.com) is an English outfit with economical small-group (10-16 people) tours, such as its 11-day "Real Affordable Peru" trip. Another tour combines Machu Picchu and the Galápagos Islands.

• Peru for Less  (tel. 877/269-0309 or 203/002-0571 in the U.K.; www.peruforless.com), originally a company based in Texas and now headquartered in Lima, lives up to its plainspoken name, guaranteeing "the lowest prices outside Peru." It has a great roster of affordable Peru tour packages, such as "Historical Peru," which visits Lima, Paracas, Nasca, Arequipa, Cusco, and Machu Picchu, and very competent teams on the ground. It has recently branched out with alternative trekking tours in the Cusco region, including small-group treks to Choquequirao and Vilcabamba and a dozen more. Tours include guides, hotels, all visits and transfers, plus daily breakfast.

• Southwind Adventures  (tel. 800/377-9463; www.southwindadventures.com) plans distinctive and high-end adventure trips with a cultural emphasis in South America. Among them are 16 Peruvian trips, from mountain biking to specialty tours such as the "Urubamba Weaver's Trek." Custom trips include a 21-day Grand Andean Traverse trekking expedition, with possibilities for bird-watching, rafting, and family adventure.

• Tambo Tours  (tel. 888/2GO-PERU [246-7378]; www.tambotours.com), based in Houston, is a Peru specialist and one of the best spots to shop for a package deal to Peru. It offers a huge array of great-value trips to most parts of the country, including off-the-beaten path destinations and culturally oriented tours, as well as customized tours and discounted airfares.

• Tico Travel (tel. 800/493-8426; www.ticotravel.com), an established expert on Costa Rica and Central America, with an office in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, now offers packages to Peru and discounted airfares. Its good-value 4- to 9-day packages cover Cusco, Lima, and Lake Titicaca.

Peru-Based Companies

• Amazing Peru (tel. 800/704-2915 in the U.S. and Canada, 0808/520-0309 in the U.K.; www.amazingperu.com) is a well-run multipurpose agency, with several offices in Peru and an extensive roster of trips, offering everything from family and honeymoon tours to luxury trips and adventure and jungle tours, for virtually any budget.

• Aracari  (tel. 312/239-8726 in the U.S., 020/3287-5262 in the U.K.; www.aracari.com) is something different in the world of Peruvian travel agencies, focusing on handcrafted, upscale, private-access tours. Run by a Peruvian-born woman and ex-banker who calls their customized itineraries "intelligent travel design," Aracari offers minimum 3-night itineraries in the top locations across Peru, along with carefully chosen, often small luxury boutique hotels as bases (by and large, the hotels I most highly recommend in this guide). Trips range from cuisine-oriented itineraries to outdoors adventure and archaeology, including specialized themes such as "Peru for Art Lovers and Foodies" and "Family Adventure in the Andes." Most impressive is the roster of exclusive private houses and haciendas offered for private luncheons, cocktails, and art-collection tours. If you're looking for unique, select adventure in Peru, it's tough to best Aracari.

• Chaska Tours (tel. 084/240-424; www.chaskatours.com) is a professional, multipurpose Cusco-based company offering a large menu of travel itineraries both in groups and tailored for individuals (you can go right on the website and fill out a custom request form), especially ecotourism and adventure trips. It has everything from day tours in Cusco and jungle tours to off-the-beaten path trekking and mountain-biking excursions and jampacked 11-day trips that take in Cusco, the Sacred Valley, Titicaca, and the Amazon.

• Class Adventure Travel (CAT)  (tel. 877/240-4770 in the U.S., 0207/096-1259 in the U.K.; www.cat-travel.com) is a very professional and dependable Dutch-owned and -operated firm with offices in Lima and Cusco, as well as Argentina, Bolivia, and Brazil. It offers adventure (rafting and trekking) and jungle tours, long trips (a 17-day "Ancient Cultures of Peru" trip), short trips (a 7-day Cusco and Puno trip), and design-your-own tours. If you arrive in Peru and then decide to book a tour, CAT is without doubt one of the best general agencies to contact.

• Fiesta Tours International (tel. 01/225-1336; www.fiestatoursperu.com) has a multitude of trips within Peru, such as its 6-day "Discover Peru" tour. It also deals in airfares from Miami or Los Angeles.

• Peru Gateway Travel (tel. 888/671-2852; www.peru-explorer.com) also has an extensive roster of Peru tours and a good selection of hotels.

One good source of package deals -- airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip -- is the airlines themselves. Most major airlines offer air/land packages, including American Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (tel. 800/221-6666; www.deltavacations.com), Continental Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/301-3800; www.covacations.com), and United Vacations (tel. 888/854-3899; www.unitedvacations.com). Several big online travel agencies -- Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, and Lastminute.com -- also do a brisk business in packages.

Miami is usually the jumping-off point for package deals to Peru. The following are just a few among the longtime packagers to Peru and other destinations in Central and South America. A recommended tour operator and travel agency long specializing in South America packages, including some to Peru, is Exito Latin American Travel Specialists. Tara Tours (tel. 800/327-0080; www.taratours.com), based in Miami, is also worth a look; it usually offers several air/land packages to Peru, as well as tours such as the 9-day "Tara's Inka Journey" (Cusco, Machu Picchu, Lima, and the Amazon), and more adventurous tours to Kuelap and Sipán in northern Peru.

Fly Latin America, based in Costa Rica (tel. 800/788-7857; www.flylatinamerica.net/peru) has good airfares to Peru from North America and all over, as well as air/hotel and tour packages. For more information on escorted general-interest tours, including questions to ask before booking your trip, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Special-Interest Vacations

Study and volunteer programs, including Spanish-language programs, are often a great way to travel in and experience a country with greater depth than most independent and package travel allows. Cultural immersion and integration with locals are the aims of many such programs, leading to a richer experience for many travelers.

Volunteering, in particular, often leads to greater culture sensitivity and cross-cultural learning experiences. Especially in a developing, largely poor country such as Peru, volunteers see up close the realities of the lack of running water and electricity, the relative absence of luxuries, and simple, home-cooked foods—not to mention local customs and traditions. And at least for a short time, volunteers get the rewarding opportunity to lend their abilities and sweat toward addressing some of the challenges Peruvians face. Such aspects of Peruvian life might be considerably more difficult to apprehend if staying in nice hotels and dining at upscale restaurants.

Most volunteer organizations are not-for-profit entities that charge participants to go abroad (to cover administrative and other costs), so volunteering isn't usually a way to get a free vacation. If you're concerned, though, ask about the cost breakdown for costs and field expenses. Any established, reputable volunteer organization should be willing to do this. Then you could always compare those costs to what traveling on your own would amount to.

Volunteer & Working Trips

Below are several institutions and organizations that work on humanitarian and sustainable development projects in Peru. Some international relief organizations such as Doctors Without Borders (www.doctorswithoutborders.org) and CARE (www.care.org) accept volunteers to work crises and relief efforts. The devastating earthquakes in southern Peru in 2001 and 2007 brought hundreds of volunteers to Peru.

Cross-Cultural Solutions (www.crossculturalsolutions.org; tel. 800/380-4777), with offices in New Rochelle, New York, and Brighton, U.K., offers weeklong volunteer programs in Peru (in Lima's Villa El Salvador shantytown). The "Volunteer Abroad" section lists a number of opportunities for volunteering in Peru, including teaching and environmental research. Projects Abroad (www.projects-abroad.org; tel. 888/839-3535), with headquarters in New York and a local field office in Urubamba (in the Sacred Valley), organizes several unique volunteer and internship opportunities in Peru, including Inca restoration projects (such as the Sacsayhuamán ruins on the outskirts of Cusco), rainforest conservation, teaching, nursing, and dentistry. The World Leadership School (www.worldleadershipschool.com; tel. 303/679-3412) is a Colorado-based organization that operates 3- to 4-week programs concentrating on infrastructure and natural disaster prevention in El Carmen, on the desert coast; cultural preservation in Ollantaytambo, in the Sacred Valley; and climate change and ecosystem preservation in Puerto Maldonado, gateway to the southern Amazon. Lima-based Mundo Azul (www.mundoazul.org; tel. 01/99410-4206) takes volunteers on environmental conservation and sustainable development programs along the coast (marine biology research) and in the rainforest (threatened species). Trips off the coast south of Lima to view and photographically document the large population of playful dolphins may be the most fun you can have doing an environmentally conscious volunteer program.

Another volunteer program is Volunteers for Peace (www.vfp.org; tel. 802/259-2759), based in Vermont.

Research Opportunities

Earthwatch Institute (tel. 800/776-0188; www.earthwatch.org) has a unique mission: It sends travelers out to work in the field alongside scientists involved in archaeology and environmental conservation. There are three Peru research and education trips: You can join a 13-day excavation of a pre-Inca site, assist with research of Peruvian macaws, or document the biology of Andean rivers. But the trips are not all work; they're a way to see a fascinating slice of the country from an insider's—academic or conservationist—perspective.

Academic Trips & Language Classes

Consider local language schools, located in Cusco, Lima, and Arequipa, which offer both short- and long-term study programs, often with home stays. Transitions Abroad (www.transitionsabroad.com) occasionally lists Spanish-study programs of short duration in Peru and other South American countries; follow the "Study Abroad" tab on the website for options.

One standout school in Cusco is the Amigos Spanish School, Zaguan del Cielo B-23 (www.spanishcusco.com; tel. 084/242-292), a nonprofit school that assists disadvantaged children through its Amigos Foundation. In Lima, El Sol Escuela de Español, Grimaldo de Solar 469, Miraflores (www.elsol.idiomasperu.com; tel. 800/381-1806), marries language classes to cooking workshops, dance classes, and other activities. Also in Lima, Instituto Cultural Peruano Norteamericano, Angamos Oeste 160, Miraflores (www.icpna.edu.pe; tel. 01/241-1940) offers long-term classes, usually with daily 1-hour sessions from branches in Lima and Cusco.

Food & Wine Trips

Peru's sophisticated, diverse cuisine has attracted a great deal of worldwide attention in recent years, and gastronomic tourism is taking hold in Peru. Multiple companies offer food-centric vacations.

English-speaking Peruvian Ericka LaMadrid’s Delectable Peru gourmet food tours (www.delectableperu.com; tel. 239/244-2336 in the U.S.) are some of the most comprehensive food tours being offered in Lima. On the tours you can chat and take cooking classes with top Peruvian chefs, ask what ingredient(s) make a dish a delight, see where the magic happens in the kitchen, and learn about some of the many treats specific to Peru. Delectable Peru specializes in custom tours, many of them focusing on a specific dish or type of food, such as ceviche or Nikkei. Set tours are available as well.

Kansas-based Culture Explorers (www.cultureexplorers.com; tel. 215/870-3585) runs in-depth, tailor-made culinary tours that include dinners at top restaurants, cooking workshops, celebratory feasts, and visits to culinary schools with some of the proceeds going to help social enterprises in the country.

Taste of Peru (www.taste-of-peru.com; tel. 866/217-1542) is run by Magical Cusco Tours, a Peru/U.S.-based company in operation for more than 2 decades. Tours range from standard day trips and cooking classes at top Peruvian restaurants to multiday culinary tours with accommodations and transportation that combine an array of activities in different parts of the country, especially Lima and Cusco.

Aracari (www.aracari.com; tel. 312/239-8726 in the U.S., or 020/3287-5262 in the U.K.), an upscale Peruvian agency that designs excellent custom tours, has a free Peru culinary guide on its website. On offer are a 10-day "Peru with Flavor" trip and personalized culinary tours with exclusive visits to private houses and haciendas for private luncheons and cocktails, as well as cooking classes, visits to food markets, and dining at some of the finest restaurants in Peru.

Tips for Families

Peruvians are extremely family-oriented, and children arouse friendly interest in locals. Although there aren't many established conventions, accommodations, or discounts for families traveling with children, Peru can be an excellent country in which to travel, as long as families remain flexible and are able to surmount difficulties in transportation, food, and accommodations.

Few hotels automatically offer discounts for children or allow children to stay free with their parents. Negotiation with hotels is required. On buses, children have to pay full fare if they occupy a seat (which is why you'll see most kids sitting on their parent's or sibling's lap). Many museums and other attractions offer discounts for children 5 and under. Children's meals are rarely found at restaurants in Peru, but sometimes it's possible to specially order smaller portions. Peruvian food might be very foreign to many children -- how many kids, or adults, for that matter, will be keen on tasting roasted guinea pig? -- but familiar foods, such as fried chicken, pizza, and spaghetti, are easy to find in almost all Peruvian towns.

Calendar of Events

January

Entrega de Varas, Cusco. Community elders (yayas) designate the highest authorities of their villages in this pre-Columbian festival, which is celebrated with chicha (fermented maize beer) and llonque (sugar-cane alcohol); elders give the mayor the vara (a staff, or scepter) as a symbol of his position of authority. January 1.

Fiesta de la Santa Tierra, Lake Titicaca. The main festival on Isla Amantaní sees the population split in two -- half at the Temple of Pachamama and the other half at the Temple of Pachatata, symbolizing the islanders' ancient dualistic belief system. Third Thursday in January.

Marinera Dance Festival, Trujillo. One of the stateliest dances in Peru, the flirtatious marinera involves a couple, each partner with a handkerchief in his or her right hand. The man wears a wide-brimmed hat and poncho, and the woman wears a lace Moche dress. For 10 days, the festival, which draws couples from all over the country, is held in the Gran Chimú soccer stadium. There are also float processions throughout the city and dancing in the Plaza de Armas. January 20 to January 30.

February

Virgen de la Candelaria (Candlemas), Puno. Puno lives up to its billing as Folk Capital of the Americas with this festival, which gathers more than 200 musicians and dance troupes. On the festival's main day, February 2, the Virgen is led through the city in a colorful procession of priests and pagans carefully maintaining the hierarchy. Especially thrilling is the dance of the demons, or la diablada. Dancers in wild costumes and masks blow panpipes and make offerings to the earth goddess Pachamama. February 1 to February 14.

Carnaval. Lively pre-Lenten festivities. (Look out for balloons filled with water -- or worse.) Cajamarca is reputed to have the best and wildest parties; Puno and Cusco are also good. The weekend before Ash Wednesday.

March

Festival Internacional de la Vendimia (Wine Festival), Ica. A celebration of the grape harvest and the region's wine and pisco brandy, with fairs, beauty contests, floats, and musical festivals, including Afro-Peruvian dance. Second week of March.

Las Cruces de Porcón, Porcón. Near Cajamarca, a dawn procession of massive decorated wooden crosses through the valley of Porcón re-creates the entry of Christ into Jerusalem. The main day of the festival, Palm Sunday, presents four separate ceremonies. Ultimately, the crosses are decorated with mirrors (symbolizing the souls of the dead), and locals hang metal bells to announce the arrival of the crosses to the community. Mid-March to first week of April.

Semana Santa. Handsome and spectacularly reverent processions mark Easter Week. The finest are in Cusco and Ayacucho. Late March/early April.

Lord of the Earthquakes, Cusco. Representing a 17th-century painting of Christ on the cross that is said to have saved the city from a devastating earthquake, the image of the Lord of Earthquakes (El Señor de los Temblores) is carried through the streets of Cusco in a reverential procession, much like the Incas once paraded the mummies of their chieftains and high priests. Easter Monday, late March or early April.

April

Peruvian Paso Horse Festival, Pachacámac. The Peruvian Paso horse, one of the world's most beautiful breeds, is celebrated with the most important annual national competition at the Mamacona stables near Pachacámac, 30km (19 miles) south of Lima. April 15 to April 20.

May

Fiesta de la Cruz. The Festival of the Cross features folk music and dance, including "scissors dancers," and processions in which communities decorate crosses and prepare them for the procession to neighboring churches. The danzantes de tijeras (scissors dancers) re-create old times, when they performed on top of church bell towers. Today the objective is still to outdo one another with daring feats. Celebrations are especially lively in Lima, Cusco, and Ica. May 2 and 3.

Qoyllur Rit'i, Quispicanchis, near Cusco. A massive indigenous pilgrimage marks this ritual, which is tied to the fertility of the land and the worship of Apus, the spirits of the mountains. It forms part of the greatest festival of native Indian nations in the hemisphere: Qoyllur Rit'i. The main ceremony is held at the foot of Mount Ausangate, with 10,000 pilgrims climbing to the snowline along with dancers in full costume representing mythical characters. Others head to the summit, in search of the Snow Star, and take huge blocks of ice back down on their backs -- holy water for irrigation purposes. First week in May.

Fiesta de Mayo, Huaraz. Also known as El Señor de la Soledad, this festival is celebrated with traditional dances, ski races, and a lantern procession. May 2 to May 10.

June

Corpus Christi, Cusco. A procession of saints and virgins arrives at the Catedral to "greet" the body of Christ. Members of nearby churches also take their patron saints in a procession. An overnight vigil is followed by a new procession around the Plaza de Armas, with images of five virgins clad in embroidered tunics and the images of four saints: Sebastian, Blas, Joseph, and the Apostle Santiago (St. James). Early June.

Virgen del Carmen, Paucartambo. In a remote highland village 4 hours from Cusco, thousands come to honor the Virgen del Carmen, or Mamacha Carmen, patron saint of the mestizo population, with 4 days of splendidly festive music and dance, as well as some of the wildest costumes in Peru. Dancers even perform daring moves on rooftops. The festival ends in the cemetery in a show of respect for the souls of the dead. Pisac also celebrates the Virgen del Carmen festival, almost as colorfully. June 15 to June 18.

Semana del Andinismo, Huaraz and Callejón de Huaylas. For outdoors fanatics, this celebration of outdoor adventure includes opportunities to partake in trekking, skiing, mountain biking, rafting, rock climbing, and hang gliding -- and plenty of parties to accompany them. Mid- to late June.

Inti Raymi, Cusco. The Inca Festival of the Sun -- the mother of all pre-Columbian festivals -- celebrates the winter solstice and honors the sun god with traditional pageantry, parades, and dances. One of the most vibrant and exciting of all Andean festivals, it draws thousands of visitors who fill Cusco's hotels. The principal event takes place at the Sacsayhuamán ruins and includes the sacrifice of a pair of llamas. General celebrations last several days. June 24.

San Juan, Cusco and Iquitos. The feast day of St. John the Baptist, a symbol of fertility and sensuality, is the most important date on the festival calendar in the entire Peruvian jungle. John the Baptist has taken on a major symbolic significance because of the importance of water as a vital element in the entire Amazon region. Events include fiestas with lots of music and regional cuisine. In Iquitos, don't miss the aphrodisiac potions with suggestive names. June 24 in Cusco; June 25 in Iquitos.

San Pedro/San Pablo, near fishing villages in Lima and Chiclayo. The patron saints of fishermen and farmers, Saint Peter and Saint Paul, are honored at this festival; figures of the saints are carried with incense, prayers, and hymns down to the sea and are taken by launch around the bay to bless the waters. June 29.

July

Fiesta de Santiago, Isla Taquile. This celebration of St. James is a festive and very traditional pageant of color, with exuberant dances and women in layered, multicolored skirts. July 25 and August 1 and 2.

Fiestas Patrias. A series of patriotic parties mark Peru's independence from Spain in 1821. Official parades and functions are augmented by cockfighting, bullfighting, and Peruvian Paso horse exhibitions in other towns. The best celebrations are in Cusco, Puno, Isla Taquile, and Lima. July 28 and 29.

August

Santa Rosa de Lima, Lima. Major devotional processions honor the patron saint of Lima. August 30.

September

International Spring Festival, Trujillo. Trujillo celebrates the festival of spring with marinera dance, decorated streets and houses, floats, and schoolchildren dancing in the streets -- led, of course, by the pageant beauty queen. Last week in September.

October

El Señor de los Milagros, Lima. The Lord of Miracles is the largest procession in South America, and it dates from colonial times. Lasting nearly 24 hours and involving tens of thousands of purple-clad participants, it celebrates a Christ image (painted by an Angolan slave) that survived the 1746 earthquake and has since become the most venerated image in the capital. October 18.

November

Todos Santos and Día de los Muertos. Peruvians salute the dead by visiting cemeteries carrying flowers and food. Families hold candlelight vigils in the cemetery until dawn. The holiday is most vibrantly celebrated in the highlands. November 1 and 2.

Puno Week, Puno. A major procession from the shores of the lake to the town stadium celebrates Manco Cápac, who, according to legend, rose from the waters of Lake Titicaca to establish the Inca Empire. Dances and music take over Puno, with events often taking a turn for the inebriated. Spectacular "Day of the Dead" celebrations coincide with Puno Week. First week of November.

December

Santuranticuy Fair, Cusco. One of the largest arts-and-crafts fairs in Peru -- literally, "saints for sale" -- is held in the Plaza de Armas. Artisans lay out blankets around the square, as in traditional Andean markets, and sell figurines and Nativity scenes as well as ceramics, carvings, pottery, and retablos (altars). Vendors sell hot rum punch called ponche. December 24.

Money

The Value of the Peruvian Nuevo Sol (S/) vs. Other Popular Currencies 

Rates fluctuate, so before departing, consult a website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates. At press time, US$1 equals S/3.29.

On the whole, although prices have risen in the past few years and Peru is slightly more expensive than its Andean neighbors Ecuador and Bolivia (but less expensive now than Chile and parts of Brazil), Peru remains relatively inexpensive by North American and European standards. To those with strong currencies, Peru (outside of top-end restaurants and hotels) is likely to seem comparatively cheap. Peruvians tend to haggle over prices and accept and even expect that others will (politely) haggle, except of course in major stores and restaurants. In the bigger cities, prices for virtually everything—but especially hotels and restaurants—are higher, particularly in Lima. In addition, prices can rise in the high season, such as the Independence Day holidays (late July), Easter week (Mar or Apr), or Christmas, due to heavy demand, especially for hotel rooms and bus and plane tickets.

What Things Cost in Peru S/.

Taxi from Lima airport to Miraflores S/55

Short taxi ride in town S/5–S/10

Double room, inexpensive hotel S/60–S/150

Double room, moderate hotel S/150–S/350

Double room, expensive hotel S/350–S/650

Three-course dinner for one without wine, moderate S/65–S/95

Cocktail S/15–S/25

Cup of coffee or bottle of water S/3

Museum admission S/5–S/20

Peru’s official currency is the nuevo sol (S/), divided into 100 centavos. Coins are issued in denominations of 5, 10, 20, and 50 centavos, and 1, 2, and 5 soles; bank notes in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, and 200 soles. The U.S. dollar is the second currency; some hotels post their rates in dollars, and plenty of shops, taxi drivers, restaurants, and hotels across Peru will also accept U.S. dollars for payment. Note: Because many Peruvian hotels, tour operators, and transportation vendors charge prices solely in dollars, U.S. dollar rates are often listed in this book.

Peru is still largely a cash society. In villages and small towns, it could be impossible to cash traveler’s checks or use credit cards. Make sure that you have cash (both soles and U.S. dollars) on hand. If you pay in dollars, you will likely receive change in soles, so be aware of the correct exchange rate. U.S. dollars are by far the easiest foreign currency to exchange. Currencies other than U.S. dollars receive very poor exchange rates.

Automated teller machines (ATMs) are the best way of getting cash in Peru; they’re found in most towns and cities, although not on every street corner. ATMs allow customers to withdraw money in either Peruvian soles or U.S. dollars. Screen instructions are in English as well as Spanish. Some bank ATMs dispense money only to those who hold accounts there. Most ATMs in Peru accept only one type of credit/debit card and international money network, either Cirrus (www.mastercard.com; tel. 800/424-7787) or PLUS (www.visa.com; tel. 800/843-7587). Visa and MasterCard ATM cards are the most widely accepted; Visa/PLUS is the most common.

Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. At some ATMs, your personal identification number (PIN) must contain four digits.

Travelers should beware of hidden credit- or debit-card fees. Check with your card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country—even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

Banks are no longer the place of choice in Peru for exchanging money: Lines are too long, the task is too time-consuming, and rates are often lower at casas de cambio (exchange houses) or by using credit or debit-card ATMs or money-changers, which are legal in Peru. If you can’t avoid banks, all cities and towns have branches of major international and local banks; see “Fast Facts” in individual destination guides for locations. Money-changers, often wearing colored smocks with “$” insignias, can still be found on the street in many cities. They offer current rates of exchange, but count your money carefully (you can simplify this by exchanging easily calculable amounts, such as $10 or $100), and make sure you have not received any counterfeit bills.

Counterfeit bank notes and even coins are common, and merchants and consumers across Peru vigorously check the authenticity of money before accepting payment or change. (The simplest way: Hold the bank note up to the light to see the watermark.) Many people also refuse to accept bank notes that are not in good condition (including those with small tears, that have been written on, and even that are simply well worn), and visitors are wise to do the same when receiving change, to avoid problems with other payments. Do not accept bills with tears (no matter how small) or taped bills.

Making change in Peru can be a problem. You should carry small bills and even then be prepared to wait for change.

Tips for Single Travelers

Many reputable tour companies offer singles-only trips to Peru. Two to try are Singles Travel International (tel. 877/765-6874; www.singlestravelintl.com) and Backroads (tel. 800/462-2848; www.backroads.com).

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Although the Inca nation flag looks remarkably similar to the gay rainbow flag, Peru, a predominantly Catholic and socially conservative country, could not be considered among the world’s most progressive in terms of societal freedoms for gays and lesbians. It remains a male-dominated, macho society where homosexuality is considered deviant. Across Peru, there is still considerable prejudice exhibited toward gays and lesbians who are out, or men—be they straight or gay—who are thought to be effeminate. The word maricón is, sadly, a commonly used derogatory term for homosexuals. In the larger cities, especially Lima and Cusco, there are a number of establishments—bars, discos, inns, and restaurants—that are either gay-friendly or predominantly gay. Outside those areas, and in the small towns and villages of rural Peru, openly gay behavior is unlikely to be tolerated by the general population.

There are a number of helpful websites for gay and lesbian travelers to Peru. Gay Peru (www.gayperu.pe) includes gay-oriented package tours, news items, and nightclubs and hotels (with versions in both English and Spanish). Purple Roofs (www.purpleroofs.com/southamerica/peru.html) has a decent listing of gay and lesbian lodgings, restaurants, and nightclubs throughout Peru. If you’re planning to visit from the U.S., the International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; www.iglta.org; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/630-1637) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses. Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Now, Voyager (www.nowvoyager.com; tel. 800/255-6951) is a well-known San Francisco–based gay-owned and operated travel service.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable, responsible tourism means conscientious travel. It means being careful with the environments you explore and respecting the communities you visit. Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are ecotourism and ethical tourism. Traveling “green” and seeking sustainable tourism options is a concern in almost every part of the world today. Peru, with its majestic large expanses of nature, including the Amazon basin that covers two-thirds of the country, is a place where environmentally and culturally conscientious travel is not something to think about—it’s the reality of the present and future. Although one could argue that any trip that includes an airplane flight or rental car can’t be truly green, you can go on holiday and still contribute positively to the environment; all travelers can take certain steps toward responsible travel. Choose forward-looking companies that embrace responsible development practices, helping preserve destinations for the future by working alongside local people. An increasing number of sustainable tourism initiatives can help you plan a family trip and leave as small a “footprint” as possible on the places you visit.

The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that ecotourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries’ political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips, statistics, and touring companies and associations—listed by destination under “Travel Choice”—at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. While much of the focus of ecotourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at locally owned hotels or shopping at stores that employ local workers and sell locally produced goods. In Peru, it’s a great idea to pick up artisanry such as textiles and ceramics from shops that ensure that the very artisans are well compensated for their labors. Many times those artisans are residents of poor rural communities and “fair trade” shops are increasingly seen. Many highlight the names of artisans and their home communities on their wares.

Volunteer travel has become increasingly popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation in Peru.

Deforestation is the main threat to Peru’s fragile ecosystem. Farming has virtually wiped out most of the region’s rainforests, and logging is a major threat. Such destruction has been devastating to many species, including humans, in the form of displaced indigenous tribes, and has led to drinking-water shortages, flash flooding, and mudslides. Though environmental awareness is growing, solving the region’s huge environmental problems, including not just deforestation but the effects of overpopulation and industrial pollution, clearly remains an uphill struggle.

Peru has 72 million hectares (178 million acres) of natural-growth forests—70% in the Amazon jungle region—that comprise nearly 60% of the national territory. Peru has done a slightly better job of setting aside tracts of rainforest as national park reserves and regulating industry than have some other Latin American and Asian countries. INRENA, Peru’s Institute for Natural Resource Management, enforces logging regulations and reseeds Peru’s Amazon forests, and, in 2008, President García created the country’s first Ministry of the Environment. A handful of Peruvian and international environmental and conservation groups such as ProNaturaleza and Conservation International are active in Peru, working on reforestation and sustainable forestry projects.

Yet Peru is losing nearly 300,000 hectares (741,000 acres) of forest annually. The primary threats to Peru’s tropical forests are deforestation caused by agricultural expansion, cattle ranching, logging, oil extraction and spills, mining, illegal coca farming, and colonization initiatives. Deforestation has shrunk territories belonging to indigenous peoples and wiped out more than 90% of the population. (There were once some 6 million people, 2,000 tribes and/or ethnic groups, and innumerable languages in the Amazon basin; today the indigenous population is less than 2 million.) Jungle ecotourism has exploded in Peru, and rainforest regions are now much more accessible than they once were, with more lodges and eco-options than ever. Many are taking leading roles in sustainable tourism even as they introduce protected regions to more travelers.

Besides sustainable travel to Peru’s wilderness, national parks and reserves, and threatened areas, there are everyday things you can do to minimize the impact—and especially the carbon footprint—of your travels. Remove chargers from cellphones, PSPs, laptops, and anything else that draws from the mains, once the gadget is fully charged. Turning off all hotel room lights (plus the TV and air-conditioning) can have a massive effect; it really is time all hotels had room-card central power switches.

Green trips also extend to where you eat and stay. Vegetarian foods tend to have a much smaller impact on the environment because they eschew energy- and resource-intensive meat production. Most hotels now offer you the choice to use your towels for more than one night before they are re-laundered—laundry makes up around 40% of an average hotel’s energy use.

Among Peruvian hotel chains, one stands out as a model for the industry. Although Inkaterra (www.inkaterra.com) operates just seven hotels and lodges, it is a leader among green, sustainable tourism initiatives. The group, which began with a research center for scientists in the Amazon, takes environmental issues seriously: Its properties are carbon-neutral, and it operates a not-for-profit environmental organization, which actively monitors environmental deterioration in the Peruvian rainforest. The chairman of the group sits on the board of Conservation International. Other hotel groups, and particularly those operating ecolodges in the Amazon, are following suit, being careful to ensure that a healthy percentage of jobs and benefits stay local and that the lodges’ imprint on their fragile environment is minimal. In a country like Peru, with such a large tract of virgin rainforest and developmental needs, maintaining a balance between income generation/tourism and sustainable development is a huge ongoing challenge.

A source for environmentally sensitive hotels is It’s a Green Green World (www.itsagreengreenworld.com), which lists green and eco-friendly places to stay, mostly ecolodges in the Amazon. Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com, www.responsiblevacation.com in the U.S.) is one among a growing number of environmentally aware travel agents, with dozens of green Peru trips offered. Carbon offsetting (not uncontroversial) can be arranged through, among others, ClimateCare (www.climatecare.org).

Fast Facts

Addresses -- "Jr." doesn't mean "junior"; it is a designation meaning jirón, or street, just as "Av." (sometimes "Avda.") is an abbreviation for avenida, or avenue. "Ctra." is the abbreviation for carretera, or highway; "Cdra." means cuadra, or block; and "Of." is used to designate office (oficina) number. Perhaps the most confusing element in Peruvian street addresses is "s/n," which frequently appears in place of a number after the name of the street; "s/n" means sin número, or no number. The house or building with such an address simply is unnumbered. At other times, a building number may appear hyphenated, such as "102-105," meaning that the building in question simply contains both address numbers (though usually only one main entrance).

Area Codes -- Note that even though many area codes across Peru were changed back in 2003, you many find that many published telephone numbers may still contain old area codes. The area codes for the regions covered in this guide are: Lima, 01; Ica, Nasca, and Pisco, 056; Cusco and the Sacred Valley, 084; Puerto Maldonado, 082; Puno/Lake Titicaca, 051; Arequipa, 054; Huaraz, 043; Trujillo, 044; Cajamarca, 076; Chiclayo, 074; and Iquitos, 065.

Business Hours -- Most stores are open from 9 or 10am to 12:30pm, and from 3 to 5 or 8pm. Banks are generally open Monday through Friday from 9:30am to 4pm, although some stay open until 6pm. In major cities, most banks are also open Saturday from 9:30am to 12:30pm. Offices are open from 8:30am to 12:30pm and 3 to 6pm, although many operate continuously from 9am to 5pm. Government offices are open Monday through Friday from 9:30am to 12:30pm and 3 to 5pm. Nightclubs in large cities often don't get going until after midnight, and many stay open until dawn.

Electricity -- All outlets are 220 volts, 60 cycles AC (except in Arequipa, which operates on 50 cycles), with two-prong outlets that accept both flat and round prongs. Some large hotels also have 110-volt outlets.

Embassies & Consulates -- The following are all in Lima: United States, Avenida La Encalada, Block 17, Surco (tel. 01/618-2000); Australia, Victor A. Belaúnde 147/Vía Principal 155, Bldg. 3, Of. 1301, San Isidro (tel. 01/222-8281); Canada, Calle Bolognesi 228, Miraflores (tel. 01/319-3200); and United Kingdom and New Zealand, Av. Jose Larco 1301, 22nd Floor, Miraflores (tel. 01/617-3000).

The U.S. consulate agent in Cusco is located at Av. Pardo 845 (CoresES@state.gov; tel. 084/231-474). It is open daily from 9am to noon and 3 to 5pm.

Guides -- Officially licensed guides are available on-site at many archaeological sites and other places of interest to foreigners. They can be contracted directly, although you should verify their ability to speak English if you do not comprehend Spanish well. Establish a price beforehand. Many cities are battling a scourge of unlicensed and unscrupulous guides who provide inferior services or, worse, cheat visitors. As a general rule, do not accept unsolicited offers to arrange excursions, transportation, or hotel accommodations.

Language -- Spanish is the official language of Peru. The languages Quechua (also given official status) and Aymara are spoken primarily in rural areas of the highlands. (Aymara is mostly limited to the area around Lake Titicaca.) English is not widely spoken but is understood by those affiliated with the tourist industry in major cities and tourist destinations. Most people you meet on the street will have only a very rudimentary understanding of English, if that. Learning a few key phrases of Spanish will help immensely.

Legal Aid: If you need legal assistance, your best bets are your embassy (which, depending on the situation, might not be able to help you much) and the Tourist Protection Service (tel. 0800/4-2579 toll-free, or 01/574-8000 24-hr.), which might be able to direct you to an English-speaking attorney or legal assistance organization.

Note that bribing a police officer or public official is illegal in Peru, even if it is a relatively constant feature of traffic stops and the like. If a police officer claims to be an undercover cop, do not automatically assume that he is telling the truth. Do not get in any vehicle with such a person. Demand the assistance of your embassy or consulate, or of the Tourist Protection Service.

Your first move for any serious matter should be to contact your consulate or embassy (see “Embassies & Consulates,” earlier in this section). They can advise you of your rights and will usually provide a list of local attorneys (for which you’ll have to pay if services are used), but they cannot interfere on your behalf in the English legal process. For questions about American citizens who are arrested abroad, including ways of getting money to them, telephone the Citizens Emergency Center of the Office of Special Consulate Services in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/501-4444).

Mail -- Peru's postal service is reasonably efficient, especially now that it is managed by a private company (Serpost S.A.). Post offices are open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 8pm; some are also open Sunday from 9am to 1pm. Major cities have a main post office and often several smaller branch offices. Letters and postcards to North America or Europe take between 10 days and 2 weeks, and cost from S/7 to S/8 for postcards, S/9 to S/10 for letters. If you are purchasing large quantities of textiles and other handicrafts, you can send packages home from post offices, but it is not inexpensive—more than $100 for 10kg (22 lb.), similar to what it costs to use DHL, where you’re likely to have an easier time communicating. UPS is found in several cities, but for inexplicable reasons, its courier services cost nearly three times as much as those of DHL.

Newspapers & Magazines -- In Lima, you will find copies (although rarely same-day publications) of the International Herald Tribune, the Miami Herald, and the odd European newspaper, as well as Time, Newsweek, and other special-interest publications. All might be at least several days old. Top-flight hotels sometimes offer free daily fax summations of the New York Times to their guests. Otherwise, your best source for timely news is likely to be checking in with news outlet websites. Outside Lima, international newspapers and magazines are hard to come by. Among local publications, look for Rumbos, a glossy Peruvian travel magazine in English and Spanish with excellent photography. If you read Spanish, El Comercio and La República are two of the best daily newspapers.

Packing -- Outside of a few high-end restaurants and clubs in Lima, Peru is overwhelmingly casual. You should probably be more concerned about packing the proper outdoor gear than the best duds to go out and be seen in. If traveling in rainy season, you’ll want to be extra prepared for deluges in the highlands.

Taxes -- A general sales tax (IGV) is added automatically to most consumer bills (19%). In some upmarket hotels or restaurants, service charges of 10% are often added. Foreigners who can demonstrate that they do not reside in Peru (generally all you need to do is show your passport) are exempt from having to pay the IGV tax at hotels. Some unscrupulous smaller hotels occasionally try to dupe guests into believing that they have to pay this 19% tax; this is flatly untrue.

Time -- Peru is 5 hours behind GMT (Greenwich Mean Time). Peru does not observe daylight saving time.

Tipping -- Whether and how much to tip is not without controversy. Visitors from the U.S. in particular tend to be more generous than locals and European visitors. Most people leave about a 10% tip for waitstaff in restaurants. In nicer restaurants that add a 10% service charge, many patrons tip an additional 5 or 10% (because little, if any, of that service charge will ever make it to the waiter’s pocket). Taxi drivers are not usually tipped unless they provide additional service. Bilingual tour guides on group tours should be tipped ($1–$2 per person for a short visit, and $5 or more per person for a full day). If you have a private guide, tip about $10 to $20.

Toilets -- Public lavatories (baños públicos) are rarely available except in railway stations, restaurants, and theaters. Many Peruvian men choose to urinate in public, against a wall in full view, especially late at night; it's not recommended that you emulate them. Use the bathroom of a bar, cafe, or restaurant; if it feels uncomfortable to dart in and out, have a coffee at the bar. Public restrooms are labeled WC (water closet), DAMAS (Ladies), and CABALLEROS or HOMBRES (Men). Toilet paper is not always provided, and when it is, most establishments request that patrons throw it in the wastebasket rather than the toilet, to avoid clogging.

Water -- Visitors should drink only bottled water, which is widely available. Do not drink tap water, even in major hotels. Try to avoid drinks with ice. Agua con gas is carbonated; agua sin gas is still water.