Planning a trip to Philadelphia

Escorted & Package Tours

Academic Trips & Language Classes

For a truly inspiring look into how art can transform lives, join up with a tour of the world-renowned Mural Arts Program, 1727-29 Mt. Vernon St. (tel. 215/685-0750; www.muralarts.org). Philadelphia has more public murals than any other U.S. city; each painted wall is part of a community-building, city-beautification program whose core belief is that people and neighborhoods can change for the better -- one paintbrush, one child, one artist at a time. Trolley and bike tours are led by volunteers; mural artists lead special hands-on tours that allow participants to paint part of the artwork.

Every Saturday morning, rain or shine, quirky, prolific, delightful, tile-mosaic artist Isaiah Zagar leads a group of students in the blissful art of breaking tile, cutting mirror, gluing bits, and grouting in his weekend-long workshops that begin with a blank wall and end with a most unique art installation. All workshops meet at his one-of-a-kind, work-in-progress Magic Garden, 1020 South St. (tel. 215/733-0390; www.phillymagicgardens.org).

The Philadelphia Museum of Art (PMA) offers daylong workshops on artistic endeavors as diverse as preserving your own art collection to creating handmade books to the art of Sunkaraku, the Japanese tea ceremony; and, the PMA's exhibit-tailored lectures are not to be missed. Bella Vista find Fleisher Art Memorial, 719 Catharine St. (tel. 215/922-3456; www.fleisher.org) employs well-respected Philadelphia artists to teach tuition-free fine arts and art-history classes and (modest-tuition-bearing) workshops, such as digital photography, drawing composition, silk-screen, portrait painting, pottery, and more in a studio setting.

The French Alliance of Philadelphia, 1420 Walnut St., Ste. 700 (tel. 215/735-5283; www.afphila.com); the America-Italia Society of Philadelphia, 1420 Walnut St., Ste. 310 (tel. 215/735-3250; www.america-italysociety.com); Spanish Language School, 2004 Sansom St. (tel. 215/567-4446); and the German Society of Pennsylvania, 611 Spring Garden St. (tel. 215/627-5297; www.germansociety.org), all offer 1-day to longer-term language immersion courses to review the pronunciation, grammar, and vocabulary that you don't remember from high school.

Adventure & Wellness Trips

The Philadelphia Bicycle Coalition (tel. 215/242-9253; www.bicyclecoalition.org) serves as a hub for all manner of cycling clubs and events. By joining up with the Philadelphia Mountain Biking Association, you will find built-in tour guides for a trek through Fairmount Park; connecting with, for example, the Central Bucks club might lead you to a covered bridges ride.

A relatively new option for discovering Center City is a guided tour by bike or moped -- in season only. Philadelphia Bike and Moped Tours (tel. 215/514-3124; www.philadelphiabiketour.com) start at the Atwater Kent Museum, and smartly stop off at sites that are just a bit too out-of-the-way to walk to easily, such as the Eastern State Penitentiary, the Edgar Allan Poe National Historical Site, and the Independence Seaport Museum. The service also offers half- and full-day bike and moped rentals, for DIY riders.

Those who prefer their touring high-tech ought to sign up for an I Glide Tour of the art museum district (tel. 877-GLIDE-81 [454-3381] or 215/735-1700; www.iglidetours.com). Participants learn the basics of operating a Segway Human Transporter, pop on a wireless headset, and follow a guide along the edges of Eakins Oval and Fairmount Park. Daytime and evening tours are available.

The Summer Wind, a 48-foot Chinese junk-rigged schooner docked along Penn's Landing, offers daytime and sunset cruises along the Delaware River via American Sailing Tours (tel. 215/900-7758; www.americansailingtours.com). Warm-weather tours focus on maritime history, the skyline, or Jimmy Buffett-inspired revelry, and cost $35 to $40 per person.

Greater Philadelphia Gardens (www.greaterphiladelphiagardens.org) is a clearinghouse of sorts for wildflower walks, private garden tours, and horticultural workshops. Thirty of the area's most famous gardens, such as Bartram's Gardens, Shofuso Japanese House & Garden, and even the Philadelphia Zoo participate.

Spas to spend the day in include the serene and elegant Rescue Rittenhouse Spa Lounge, 255 S. 17th St., 2nd Floor (tel. 215/772-2766; www.rescuerittenhousespa.com), home to the best facials, waxing, and nail care in the city, and Juju Spa & Organics, 728 S. 4th St. (tel. 215/922-3235; www.jujusalon.com), a jewel-box oasis for truly holistic massages and wraps and all-natural mani-pedis. For an overnight spa experience, tap the in-house retreats at the note-perfect Four Seasons Hotel, where the products are absolutely top of the line, or the Rittenhouse Hotel's Aveda day spa Adolf Biecker for fabulous body treatments and sublime facials.

Food & Wine Trips

The best thing going, food-and-drink tour-wise, seems to be the Philadelphia version of City Food Tours (tel. 800/979-3370; www.cityfoodtours.com), a series of 2- to 2 1/2-hour walking tours in Center City or Northern Liberties. Choose from five main tours, which mostly take place on Saturday or Sunday afternoons (the one exception is a Fri night, sort of progressive dinner). Guides lead you through the Reading Terminal Market to cheesesteaks or locally grown food stands, or to Old City for craft beers and artisanal cheeses, or to dessert-only spots. Prices start at $29 per adult and go up to $75 for the "Evening of Indulgence." Prices do not include gratuity.

If you'd like a bit of guidance to explore the rough-hewn culinary delights of the Italian Market, sign up for Morello's Italian Market Tour (tel. 215/334-6008; www.italianmarkettour.com), a Friday morning group tour led by historian, criminologist, and author of Italian Market Cookbook, Celeste A. Morello. Morello's received major press for her vast knowledge of the food and culture of this area, and can easily talk and walk about and around the market for 5 hours.

Philadelphia Urban Adventures also offers a tour of the Italian Market, another of South Street (starting at Jim's Steaks), and another of historic and history-making pubs near City Hall (tel. 215/280-3746; www.philadelphiaurbanadventures.com). Most tours last about 2 hours, cost about $20 to $30, and include transportation and treats along the way.

Spring through fall Historic Philadelphia, Inc., organizes a weekly, 2 1/2-happy-hours Tipplers' Tour (tel. 215/629-4026; www.historicphiladelphia.org; $35/adult) from brewery to taproom to the City Tavern, teaching its attendants Colonial drinking traditions and expressions along the way.

Inspired by the "fermentation trio" of wine, cheese, and beer, popular Tria cafe founded Tria Fermentation School at 1601 Walnut St. (the Medical Arts Building), Ste. 620 (tel. 215/972-7076; www.triacafe.com), a great place to spend a few hours learning about at least one-third of the trio. Local brewers, international vintners, expert fromagers, and industry pros lead affordable classes on all manner of transformed grains, grapes, and milks.

Volunteer & Working Trips

Habitat for Humanity, 1829 N. 19th St. (tel. 215/765-6000; www.habitatphiladelphia.org), has developed a strong presence in the city -- so much so that individual volunteers should sign up months ahead to build LEED-certified green homes or renovate traditional Philadelphia row homes. Habitat helpers must be at least 16 years of age. Groups of 3 to 10 are asked to raise $2,500 to cover the costs of a group build day.

Greater Philadelphia Cares (tel. 215/564-4544; www.philacares.com) is a wonderful citywide clearinghouse of all manner of volunteer opportunities. Go to their website and search by cause or date to find activities such as greening the city's parks and public spaces with the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society, tutoring with after-school programs, serving lunch at shelters, preparing a barn for an inner-city horseback riding program, and feeding people living with HIV/AIDS. There are experiences for all ages and abilities, with more than 100 jobs listed per month.

Walking Tours

Twenty sites in 75 minutes is the promise of daily, Memorial-through-Labor Day Constitutional Walking Tour (tel. 215/525-1776; www.theconstitutional.com). Participants meet a guide at the Independence Visitor Center at 6th and Market streets for a 1 1/4-mile stroll past Independence Hall, Betsy Ross's House, and the Liberty Bell. It's an efficient way to experience a greatest-historic hits, a decent overview if you're visiting for a day or two, or a nice overview to kick off a longer trip. The cost: $18 per adult; $13 per child; $55 for a family of four (two adults, two children). This tour's producers also offer a free self-guided tour of 30 sites, a similar 75-minute cellphone tour, or an MP3 audio tour ($15). After dark, this group puts on a "Spirits of '76" ghost tour of another 20, but a haunted 20, sites. (Same pricing.)

Every Saturday -- and April through November, Tuesdays and Thursdays -- at 2pm a group meets at the American Institute of Architects (AIA) Bookstore at 1218 Arch St. for Emergence of a Metropolitan Metropolis, (tel. 215/569-3186; www.philadelphiacfa.org; $15, $5 children under 12) a 2(ish)-hour visit to landmark buildings such as the ornate Victorian Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts and the Comcast Center. Tours take place rain or shine, and tickets are available on a first-come, first-served basis.

It's the luck of the draw if you embark on one of the Preservation Alliance's dozens of Architectural Walking Tours (tel. 215/546-1146; www.preservationalliance.com; $10, $8 students, free for children 10 and under). But, when it comes down to it, there are no bad choices. Each 1-to-4-hour exploration begins in a different neighborhood -- maybe Northern Liberties one Saturday, the heart of Rittenhouse Square another, or even a historic suburban main street on another.

The same companies that take you around town in a horse-drawn carriage, Big Bus or Victorian trolley, also lead you by foot via the three-times-a-day (weather permitting) Franklin's Footsteps Walking Tour (tel. 215/389-TOUR [8687]; www.phillytour.com; $14, $12 seniors, $10 children 4-12). Another 75-minute whirlwind, this walkabout passes by all the majors (from Carpenters' Hall to the National Constitution Center), departing from a kiosk at the Independence Visitor Center (6th and Market streets).

Best for smaller tour-takers are the summertime "adventures" led by the Colonial characters of Once Upon a Nation on their signature attention-keeping strolls about Independence National Park (www.historicphiladelphia.org; $17-$20, free-$15 for children 12 and under). One tour turns your kids into history-learning detectives; another introduces them to real, live Loyalists and Patriots.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Mummer's Parade. New Year's Day wouldn't be the same without this wonderfully odd, century-old parade, which lasts from 8am through sunset. Mummers are 15,000 costumed members of performing troupes (referred to as "brigades" or "clubs"). Sometimes Mummers play a musical instrument. Sometimes they dance. Sometimes they carry a parasol in one hand and a can of Coors Light in the other. But they almost always wear a spangled, feathered, and/or sequined clownlike costume and face paint while strutting up Broad Street, from South Philly to City Hall. After the parade, head to the convention center at 11th and Arch to watch the fancy brigades ("fancies") compete onstage, or join tipsy revelers packed into Dirty Frank's, a neighborhood bar on the corner of 13th and Pine streets. Call the Mummers Museum at tel. 215/336-3050 or visit www.mummers.com for details. January 1 (or the following Sat in case of bad weather).

February

Black History Month. The African American Museum at 7th and Arch streets offers a full complement of exhibitions, lectures, and music. Call tel. 215/574-0380 or visit www.aampmuseum.org for details. Entire month of February.

Center City Restaurant Week. Nearly 100 restaurants participate in this biannual, citywide, bargain-priced dine around. The deal: Full-service restaurants such as Fork, Alma de Cuba, and Table 31, and BYOB bistros like Mercato, La Bohème, Bistro 7, and Audrey Claire offer three-course dinners for $35. Reservations are almost universally required. Make them directly with the participating restaurants. For more information visit www.centercityphila.org or www.opentable.com. Early February. A second restaurant week takes place in mid-September.

Chinese New Year. Lucky dragons, Mongolian dancers, and fireworks festively fill the neighborhood around 11th and Arch streets, and traditional 10-course banquets are served at Chinese restaurants. You can also visit the Chinese Cultural Center at 125 N. 10th St. Call tel. 215/923-6767 or visit www.chinesecc.com or www.phillychinatown.com for details on the festivities. Mid- to late February.

March

Philadelphia Flower Show. Held in the ever-expanding Pennsylvania Convention Center, the world's largest indoor flower show offers acres of gardens, rustic to opulent settings -- and more Red Hat Society members than you can count. With the citywide institution of Flower Show Week, the show and surrounding festivities are even bigger and better than before. Go early for the freshest displays. Tickets are usually available at the door. The Pennsylvania Horticultural Society at 100 N. 20th St. sells tickets in advance. Call tel. 800/611-5960 or 215/988-8800, or visit www.theflowershow.com for more information. Early March.

St. Patrick's Day Parade. America's second-oldest St. Pat's Day parade -- since 1771 -- starts at noon on 20th Street and the parkway, turns on 17th Street to Chestnut Street, then goes down Chestnut Street to Independence Mall. The parkway is the most spacious vantage point, and the Irish Pub at 2007 Walnut St. will be packed. Visit www.philadelphiastpatsparade.com or call the Independence Visitor Center (tel. 610/449-4320) for details. Sunday before March 17.

April

Philadelphia Antiques Show. Founded in 1966, this antiques show is one of the finest in the nation, with 56 major English and American exhibitors. It's held in South Philadelphia at the Navy Yard, Philadelphia Cruise Terminal at Pier One, 5100 S. Broad St. Call tel. 215/387-3500 or visit www.philaantiques.com for more information. First half of April.

Penn Relays. Established on April 21, 1895, this 5-day track-and-field meet -- the largest and oldest of its kind -- attracts more than 15,000 of the country's best college, high school, and track club runners and more than 100,000 spectators to the University of Pennsylvania's Franklin Field. Call tel. 215/898-6145 or visit www.thepennrelays.com for more information. End of April.

May

Equality Forum. Formerly known as PrideFest Philadelphia, this weeklong, citywide conference aims to unite and to celebrate the gay, lesbian, bisexual, and transgender (GLBT) community with a diverse schedule of panels, programs, and parties. For more information, visit www.equalityforum.org or call tel. 215/732-3378. First week of May.

Philadelphia International Children's Festival. This week of multicultural, kid-centric, art-informed events features world-class performances, hands-on crafts making, and free outdoor events, taking place on Penn's campus, based at 3680 Walnut St. Call tel. 215/898-3900 or visit www.pennpresents.org for programs and prices. First week of May.

Rittenhouse Row Spring Festival. Everybody in the neighborhood (50,000 people) turns out for this mega block party, featuring all manner of musical performers, fashion shows, and food from nearby restaurants. Visit www.rittenhouserow.org for more information. First Saturday in May.

Dad Vail Regatta. This collegiate rowing event is one of the largest in the country, drawing more than 100 colleges and universities to the waters and banks of the Schuylkill River. You can picnic on Martin Luther King Jr. Drive near Strawberry Mansion. Call tel. 215/542-1443 or visit www.dadvail.org for details. Second Saturday of May (and the Fri before it).

Jam on the River. Each Memorial Day weekend, crowds pack into the Festival Pier at Penn's Landing to get down with local and national blues- and jazz-inspired bands. Recent performers have included the Dirty Dozen Brass Band and the Disco Biscuits. For more information, call tel. 215/928-8801 or visit www.jamontheriverphilly.com. Last weekend in May.

Devon Horse Show, Route 30, Devon. This 10-day riding event takes place outside of Philadelphia on the edge of the Main Line suburbs. "Devon" encompasses jumping competitions, carriage races, riding classes, and a great country fair with plenty of food stalls -- from burgers to watercress sandwiches -- under cheerful awnings. Visit www.thedevonhorseshow.org or call tel. 610/688-2554 for details. Late May to early June.

June

Head House Farmers' Market. Twenty-some local farmers, food vendors, and craftspeople set up shop in the covered "shambles" market along South 2nd Street between Pine and Lombard streets on Sunday from 10am to 2pm. A smaller market is held on the same spot on Saturday 10am to 2pm, too. For more information, look for Head House Farmers' Market on www.thefoodtrust.org, or call tel. 215/575-0444. June through late November.

Independence Dragon Boat Regatta. This relative newcomer to the lineup celebrates the ancient Chinese with an all-day competition that's part athleticism, part jubilation, wherein teams paddle to the beat of an onboard drummer. For more information, visit www.independencedragonboat.com. Early June.

USPro Cycling Championships. The 156-mile course of this country's premier 1-day cycling event starts and finishes on the parkway, following the incredible climb up the hills of Manayunk. Visit www.procyclingtour.com or call tel. 610/676-0390 for more information. First or second Saturday of June.

Rittenhouse Square Fine Arts Show. Philadelphia moves outdoors with this historic, biannual event, in which hundreds of professional and student works of art go on sale in the park. Call tel. 877/689-4112 or visit www.rittenhousesquarefineartshow.org for details. First week of June, second weekend of September.

Flag Day. This day was invented here in 1891. Festivities are held at the Betsy Ross House at 12:30pm, usually with a National Guard band and a speech. Visit www.betsyrosshouse.org or call tel. 215/686-1252 for details. June 14.

Bloomsday. The Rosenbach Museum and the Irish Pub at 2007 Walnut St. both celebrate the 24-hour time span of James Joyce's novel Ulysses. Visit www.rosenbach.org or call tel. 215/732-1600 for details. June 16.

Mann Music Center Summer Concerts. This outdoor venue in Fairmount Park offers selected free concerts through August, and cheap lawn seats for performances by the Philadelphia Orchestra and Philly Pops, plus national funk, pop, folk, classical, rock, and dance acts. Bring a picnic and a bottle of wine and enjoy music under the stars. Visit www.manncenter.org or call tel. 215/546-7900 for a schedule. June through August.

West Oak Lane Jazz and Arts Festival. This up-and-coming celebration has turned a neighborhood street festival into a concert- and art-chocked long weekend. Recent performers include spoken-word artists, tenor saxophonist Odean Pope, and WAR. Visit www.westoaklanefestival.com or call tel. 877/WOL-JAZZ (965-5299) for more details. Third or fourth weekend in June.

July

Welcome America! The whole town turns out for this weeklong festival to celebrate America's birthday with theater, free entertainment, and assorted pageantry. The Fourth of July brings special ceremonies to Independence Square, including a reading of the Declaration of Independence, a presentation of the prestigious Liberty Medal (past winners include Colin Powell), and an evening parade up the parkway. Principal locations are the terrace by the Philadelphia Museum of Art, City Hall (where the world's largest hoagie is assembled), and Penn's Landing. There are fireworks at Penn's Landing July 3 and on the Ben Franklin Parkway July 4. Call tel. 215/683-2200 or visit www.americasbirthday.com for more information. The week of July 4th.

August

Pennsylvania Dutch Festival. Reading Terminal Market is the venue for this weeklong festival featuring quilts, music, food, crafts, and the like. Visit www.readingterminalmarket.org or call tel. 215/922-2317 for more information. First week of August.

Philadelphia Folk Festival. Out at Poole Farm, in Schwenksville, this family-friendly festival (which feels a lot like a camping trip) celebrates bluegrass, Irish, Cajun, klezmer, and cowboy music, as well as dancing, juggling, puppetry, and crafts. Visit www.pfs.org or call tel. 800/566-FOLK (3655) or 215/242-0150 for details. Usually late August.

September

Philadelphia Live Arts Festival and Philly Fringe Festival. Inspired by the cutting-edge Scottish festival of the same name, this 2-week event offers offbeat performances, experimental films, and art installations to the nooks and crannies of the Old City. Visit www.pafringe.org or call tel. 215/413-9006 for details. Throughout the first half of September.

Philadelphia Distance Run. One of the nation's premier races, this half marathon cuts through Center City and Fairmount Park. It is more popular than the November marathon, attracting 11,000 runners who jog to the beat of more than a dozen bands along the course. Visit www.runphilly.com or call tel. 800/311-1255 for more information. Usually the second or third Sunday of September.

Restaurant Week. Mid-September.

Rittenhouse Square Fine Arts Show.

October

Philadelphia Open Studio Tours. For 2 weekends in October, painters, sculptors, and all manner of artists open their studios to the public. The first weekend is dedicated to studios west of Broad Street (Rittenhouse Sq., art museum area); the second features studios east of Broad (Old City, Bella Vista, Queen Village, Northern Liberties). Call tel. 215/546-7775 or go to www.philaopenstudios.org for more information. First and second weekend in October.

Columbus Day Parade. Look for a parade along the parkway plus South Philadelphia fairs. Call tel. 215/686-3412 for details. Second Monday of October.

November

Philadelphia Museum of Art Craft Show. This preeminent exhibition and retail sale of fine American and international contemporary crafts is held at the convention center and includes works in clay, glass, fiber, jewelry, metal, and wool. Tickets are $15. Visit www.philamuseum.org or call tel. 215/684-7930 for more information. Usually the first weekend of November.

Philadelphia Marathon. The marathon starts and finishes at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, looping through historic districts of Center City and then Fairmount Park. Call tel. 215/683-2122 or visit www.philadelphiamarathon.com for more information. Usually the Sunday before Thanksgiving.

Thanksgiving Day Parade. This parade starts from the Philadelphia Museum of Art and travels down the Ben Franklin Parkway. It features cartoon characters, bands, floats, and Santa Claus. For more information, visit www.6abc.com. Thanksgiving Day.

House Lights of South Philly. For a kitschy Christmas experience, visit the residential squares around the 2700 blocks of South Colorado and South Smedley streets, south of Oregon Avenue, between 16th and 18th streets. The sight of dozens of houses bathed in interconnected strands of holiday lights and the sound of streaming music is impressive indeed. The lights usually go up right after Thanksgiving. Late November through end of the year.

December

Holiday Activities Around Town. Christmas sees many activities in Center City, beginning with tree lightings in the City Hall courtyard and in Rittenhouse Square. The festivities at the Gallery at Market East include organs and choirs, as does the famous, beloved light show at Macy's. Society Hill and Germantown Christmas walking tours are lovely. Chestnut Hill shops stay open late on Wednesday in December for "Stag and Doe" nights. For more information call the Independence Visitor Center (tel. 610/449-4320) or visit www.phila.gov. Throughout December.

Army-Navy Game. This biggest of military sporting events -- and rivalries -- ends the college football season. For years, Philadelphia has hosted the Army-Navy game -- and the thousands of fans it brings. It's sometimes held at Lincoln Financial Field, but check the location at www.phillylovesarmynavy.com. For tickets, army fans call tel. 877/TIX-ARMY (849-2769); navy fans call tel. 800/US-4-NAVY (874-6289). Early December.

Nutcracker Ballet. The Pennsylvania Ballet performs Tchaikovsky's classic at the stunning Academy of Music at Broad and Locust streets. Visit www.paballet.org or call tel. 215/551-7000 for details. Performances offered throughout December.

Lucia Fest. It sounds Italian, but the Lucia Fest is a Swedish pageant held by candlelight at the American Swedish Historical Museum, 1900 Pattison Ave. in South Philadelphia. Call tel. 215/389-1776 or visit www.americanswedish.org for more information. First weekend of December.

Christmas Tours of Fairmount Park. The grand city park's colonial mansions sparkle with wreaths, holly, and fruit arrangements donated by local garden clubs. Visit www.fairmountpark.org for details. Last few weeks in December.

New Year's Eve. Fireworks are held at the Great Plaza of Penn's Landing. December 31.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Many convenience groceries and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. Local calls made from most pay phones cost either 25¢ or 35¢. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be expensive -- charges of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute. Some numbers have minimum charges that can run $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For directory assistance ("Information"), dial 411 for local numbers and national numbers in the U.S. and Canada. For dedicated long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code plus 555-1212.

Mobile Phones

AT&T, Sprint, Verizon, and T-Mobile are the largest U.S. cellphone network providers. Sign up with any of these companies, and you can count on decent reception throughout the city. GSM reception has improved in recent years; no need to switch providers when traveling in or around Philadelphia.

Philadelphia International Airport has three Airport Wireless stores (www.airportwireless.com) that sell mobile phones, Palms, PDAs, laptops, and accessories. Find them in Terminal B (tel. 215/937-1065), C (tel. 215/937-9620), and A-West (tel. 215/365-2755). One of the nation's largest cellphone rental companies is based in Center City. AllCell, 1528 Walnut St. (tel. 877/724-CELL [2355] or 215/985-CELL [2355]; www.allcellrentals.com), rents standard cellphones, satellite phones, pagers, and two-way pagers by the day, week, or month.

Internet & Wi-Fi

You'd be hard pressed to find a Philly hotel without Wi-Fi access or a computer-stocked business center. Most local cafes -- including myriad Starbucks -- offer free Wi-Fi, too. There are three FedEx Office locations (www.fedex.com) in Center City, one at 2001 Market St. (at 20th St.; tel. 215/561-5170), another at 216 S. 16th St. (btw. Walnut and Locust sts.; tel. 215/732-2033), and a third at 1816 Spring Garen St. (btw. 18th and 19th sts.; tel. 215/567-2679). The Free Library of Philadelphia has free Wi-Fi and computers for guests. The library on Rittenhouse Square is called "City Institute" (closed Fri) and is at the corner of 19th and Locust (tel. 215/685-6621). The Central Branch is at 19th and Vine streets (along Ben Franklin Pkwy.; tel. 215/686-5322). Closer to Old City is the library's "Independence" branch (closed Sat), 18 S. 7th St. (btw. Market and Chestnut sts.; tel. 215/685-1633). And, although it's not officially sanctioned, I've seen plenty of people checking e-mail and browsing the web at the Apple Store at 1607 Walnut St. (btw. 16th and 17th sts.; tel. 215/861-6400; www.apple.com/retail/walnutstreet). The Philadelphia International Airport has free Wi-Fi access and 100 workstations near boarding gates equipped with outlets, pay phone, and desk space.

Tips for Student Travelers

There are more colleges and universities in and around Philadelphia than in any other city in the country, so students will find a warm reception from area vendors and attractions. A valid student ID will get you reduced rates on cultural sites, accommodations, car rentals, and more. You'll also get a deep discount at Apple Hostel (formerly Bank Street Hostel), 32 S. Bank St. (tel. 877/275-1971), right in the center of all of Old City nightlife and, oh yes, history.

When in Philadelphia, pick up a copy of student papers such as the Daily Pennsylvanian (www.dailypennsylvanian.com) at the Ivy League University of Pennsylvania, 34th and Walnut streets (tel. 215/898-5000; www.upenn.edu); the Temple News (www.temple-news.com) at Temple University, North Broad Street (tel. 215/204-7000; www.temple.edu); or the Triangle (www.thetriangle.org) at Drexel University, 32nd and Chestnut streets (tel. 215/895-2000; www.drexel.edu).

When to Go

Philadelphia is great to visit any time, although given the city's seasonal popularity and the constant flow of conventions, you'll find the best deals in the fall and winter. Concert and museum seasons run from early October to early June, and July 4th draws a festive crowd to Independence Hall.

The city has four distinct seasons with temperatures ranging from the 90s (30s Celsius) in summer to the 20s (around 0°C) in winter. (Below-zero temperatures normally hit only one out of every four winters.) Summers, the height of tourist season, can get swelteringly humid. In the fall, the weather becomes drier. Spring temperatures are variable; count on comfortable breezes. I like late September and late May best.

Holidays

Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents' Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4th (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2012).

Tips for Senior Travelers

With its compact downtown and widely available senior discounts, Philadelphia is a popular city among seniors. Most museums, movies, and attractions offer discounts, as do some hotels. (Remember to bring a photo ID.) The Philadelphia Corporation for the Aging publishes a list of discounts online at www.pcacares.org; (tel. 215/765-9040).

The U.S. National Park Service offers an America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Senior Pass, which gives seniors 62 years or older lifetime entrance to all properties administered by the National Park Service (NPS) -- national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges -- for a one-time processing fee of $10. The pass must be purchased in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. Besides free entry, the America the Beautiful Senior Pass also offers a 50% discount on some federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm or call the United States Geological Survey (USGS), which issues the passes, at tel. 888/275-8747.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

The cost of living in (and therefore eating in, entertaining in, and generally visiting) Philadelphia is known for being ever-so-slightly more reasonable than New York, Washington, D.C., and other international cities. On the other hand, just by virtue of its location in the Northeastern United States makes the region more expensive than most places in the world. In other words, you can find a burger in Center City for $4. And another for $24. ATMs are prevalent in Center City; if you don't have an account at the bank sponsoring the ATM, you'll pay up to a $4 fee for a withdrawal or transaction.

The adage "cash is king" is mostly true in Philly, too. You'll definitely want a few dollars on hand if you're planning to hop a bus or subway, which accept tokens, passes, or exact change only. Most cafes, grocers, and stores accept all credit cards. The one notable exception: BYOB restaurants. Many are cash only.

Beware of hidden credit card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country -- even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Visitor Information

The Independence Visitor Center, 1 N. Independence Mall W. (6th and Market sts.), Philadelphia, PA 19106 (tel. 800/537-7676, 215/965-7676, or 636-1666; www.independencevisitorcenter.com) is a great first stop. Separating the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall from the National Constitution Center, this expansive center offers a concierge kiosk, regional publications, events calendars, city and regional maps, a book and gift shop, and a first-class exhibition on Philadelphia's place in history. Knowledgeable volunteers staff the phones and counters. Ask for the Official Visitors Guide, a seasonal compendium of exhibitions, events, and the like. The center also offers an increasing number of package tours, combining special museum exhibitions, concerts, or sporting events with discount hotel prices, free city transit passes, and Amtrak discounts. Many bus tours, historic trolley rides, and walking tours start from here.

International visitors who want special advice or would like to arrange meetings or home stays should reach out to the International Visitors Council of Philadelphia, 1515 Arch St., 12th floor (tel. 215/683-0999; www.ivc.org).

To explore Philly without being there, go online. Some of the best websites for visitors belong to the Independence Visitor Center (www.independencevisitorcenter.com), the Philadelphia Convention and Visitors Bureau (www.philadelphiausa.travel), and my favorite, the Greater Philadelphia Tourism Marketing Corporation (www.gophila.com). For news and information, along with restaurant reviews and arts and entertainment, visit www.philly.com, the site shared by the Philadelphia Inquirer and the Philadelphia Daily News, two daily newspapers, or go to the Philadelphia magazine's website, www.phillymag.com.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Center City is welcoming to gay, lesbian, bisexual, and transgender residents and visitors, and even has a marketing campaign called "Get your History Straight and your Nightlife Gay" at www.gophila.com. The neighborhood known best for its LGBT residents is Washington West, also affectionately known as the "Gayborhood." Its borders are 9th and Juniper streets and Chestnut and South streets, and boasts some of the city's most popular restaurants, bookstores, clubs, and shops.

You can also check the weekly Philadelphia Gay News (www.epgn.com), which is widely available. The lesbian-oriented Labyrinth is available free at Giovanni's Room, a popular gay bookstore at 345 S. 12th St. (tel. 215/923-2960; www.giovannisroom.com), that also serves as a national resource for publications produced by and for gays and lesbians, as well as for feminist and progressive literature. The neighborhood's two great workout facilities are the no-nonsense Twelfth Street Gym at 204 S. 12th St. (tel. 215/985-4092; www.12streetgym.com) and popular boutique cross-training class center Fusion at the corner of 12th and Sansom streets, mezzanine level (tel. 215/733-0633; www.fusioncrosstraining.com).

Outside the city, the village of New Hope is a popular destination for gay and lesbian travelers.

For meetings, gallery exhibitions, and social events, consult the William Way Community Center, 1315 Spruce St. (tel. 215/735-2220; www.waygay.org).

To report antigay violence or discrimination, call the Philadelphia Lesbian and Gay Task Force Hot Line (tel. 215/772-2000; www.plgtf.org).

Getting Around

If it's sightseeing that you aim to do -- and if your body is able -- I recommend self-propulsion. From Center City, there are certain spots you'll want to hop into a vehicle to get to (the Barnes, if you're reading this before the collection moves to Center City early 2012; or the Philadelphia Zoo) but to explore the major areas of Old City, Rittenhouse, and Society Hill, all you'll need is natural-born mobility.

Still, you might want to get the lay of the land by taking a tour, which is why I say the best way to see Philadelphia's sights is:

By Bus

Philadelphia Trolley Works (aka 76 Carriage Company; tel. 215/389-TOUR [8687]; www.phillytour.com) operates tour buses that resemble Victorian open-air trolleys and London-style double-decker buses. Both types of vehicles circle the city daily, offering excellent, orienting tours that cost $27 for adults, $25 for seniors, and $10 for children ages 4 to 12, and include unlimited off-and-on privileges for 24 hours. (For 48-hr. access, the prices are $43 adults, $40 seniors, and $18 children.) Trolley tours originate at the Bourse Building at 5th Street between Market and Chestnut; Big Bus tours depart from 5th and Market streets (free shuttles are available from most hotels). Both rides are 90 minutes and include 20 stops in Old City, up to the art museum.

Purple trolley-style PHLASH Buses (tel. 215/636-1666; www.phillyphlash.com), are custom-made for touring, with wide windows and drivers accustomed to answering questions. Between 10am and 6pm from May 1 to October 31 the service links Independence Park sites, the Delaware waterfront, the convention center, Rittenhouse Square shopping, the cultural institutions around Logan Square, and the Philadelphia Museum of Art. The total city loop takes 50 minutes and makes about 20 stops. A one-time pass is available on board for $2, or get an all-day unlimited-ride pass for $5 per person or $10 per family. Children 4 and under and seniors 65 and over ride free.

SEPTA (tel. 215/580-7800; www.septa.org), the Southeastern Pennsylvania Public Transit Authority, operates most of the buses that run in, around, and out of Center City. (SEPTA also runs the city's subways and regional rail lines.) I find that the easiest bus routes to navigate run along one-way streets, east to west along Walnut Street, west to east along Chestnut and South streets. All SEPTA buses are wheelchair accessible. Fares are $2 cash -- exact change only -- or a $1.55 token, which also works on subways. Purchase tokens in subway stations, or regional rail stations: Market East at 12th and Filbert streets, Suburban Station at 15th to 16th Street at J.F.K. Boulevard, or 30th Street Station between 29th to 30th streets and Market Street and John F. Kennedy Boulevard.

By Subway

For our purposes, SEPTA operates two major subway/elevated train lines that crisscross the city. Running north-south, from Temple University (north) to the stadiums (south), is the orange Broad Street line, which runs below Broad Street (which, if it had a number, would be 14th Street). Stops in Center City include Spring Garden Street, City Hall, Walnut-Locust, and Lombard-South. Subways run every few minutes during rush hours and when there's an event or game at the stadiums; every 15 minutes off-peak, including weekends. Subway stations accept exact change ($2 per ride) or tokens ($1.55 each, available from machines or operators at most stations).

Running east-west, meeting the Broad Street line at City Hall, is the blue Market-Frankford El, which runs under Market Street in Center City from 30th Street Station to City Hall, 13th Street, 11th Street, 8th Street, 5th Street, 2nd Street, and Spring Garden Street (at Front St.). This line seems, to me, a little more efficient than Broad Street, and is a fast, inexpensive way to cover several blocks in a few minutes. The line becomes elevated after 2nd Street, and runs northeast to the Frankford section of the city and west to 69th Street, site of the Tower Theater.

By Car

Even though the sights of Philadelphia are easiest seen by tour bus or on foot, most visitors come by car -- and some even traverse the city that way. Drivers unaccustomed to enduring the often laborious pace of city traffic, and those unskilled at squeezing into parallel parking spots, might want to consider parking the car in a garage and leaving it there for the duration of your stay. Nonetheless, most visitors to Philadelphia do arrive by car, so if you're behind the wheel, you're certainly not alone.

Be forewarned that most Center City streets are one-way. Major exceptions include East Market Street, the Benjamin Franklin Parkway, Vine Street, and Broad Street. The Convention and Visitors Bureau at the foot of the parkway offers a Center City traffic map. Traffic around City Hall runs counterclockwise, a messy, but mostly meek, light-regulated traffic circle. Speed limits in town max out around 25 mph; expressways top out at 65 mph.

South Broad Street -- just south of South Street -- is home to a pair of fairly priced gas stations. There's also one at 10th Street and Washington Avenue, and another at 23rd and Walnut streets. Pumps are generally self-service -- except if you fuel up across the bridge in New Jersey, where state law mandates full-service only.

Rentals -- Philadelphia has no shortage of rental cars. Most major renters maintain offices at the airport. Center City and 30th Street Station also have rental offices, but not in such concentration. Avis (tel. 215/386-6426; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 215/222-4262; www.budget.com), Hertz (tel. 215/492-2958; www.hertz.com), and National (tel. 215/387-9077; www.nationalcar.com) also have offices at the Amtrak 30th Street Station and elsewhere in Center City. Enterprise is my favorite, because it has offices throughout Center City, another in South Philly, and one in University City (tel. 800/261-7331; enterprise.com). All in all, rates are competitive, averaging around $60 per day. Nearly any car you rent in Philadelphia will be automatic, as opposed to manual shift.

When buying gas, note that taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons.

International visitors should note that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental car rates in the U.S. Be sure to ask your rental agency about additional fees for these. They can add a significant cost to your car rental.

If you're visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, keep in mind that foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you may want to consider obtaining an international driver's license.

By Regional Train

SEPTA also operates trains that run from Center City to city neighborhoods like Manayunk and Chestnut Hill, and to outlying suburbs such as the Main Line and Bucks County. These trains depart from and arrive at below-ground stations at Market East (12th and Filbert sts.) and Suburban Station (15th to 16th St. at John F. Kennedy Blvd.) and serve the non-Amtrak portion of 30th Street Station (btw. 29th and 30th sts. and John F. Kennedy Blvd. and Market St.). Weather permitting, these trains, as they say, typically run on time, more frequently during rush hours, from about dawn until about midnight. Fares are by zone and range from $4 to $8.75 on-peak to $3.50 to $8.75 off-peak and weekends, if purchased inside a station. There's a surcharge of up to $1.75 for purchasing tickets from the conductor on the train.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

The Americans with Disabilities Act requires most public places to comply with disability-friendly regulations. Most hotels, National Historic Landmarks, and restaurants in Philadelphia are disability accessible. For basic Philadelphia information, contact the Mayor's Commission on People with Disabilities, Municipal Services Building, Room 900, 1401 J.F.K. Blvd., Philadelphia, PA 19107 (tel. 215/686-2798), or see the excellent website at www.phila.gov/mcpd. SEPTA (the local transit authority) arranges special transportation for people with disabilities through the Customized Community Transportation Program; offices are open weekdays until 4pm, at 1234 Market St., 4th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19107 (tel. 215/580-7145). SEPTA buses are lift-equipped. Market East and University City subway stations are wheelchair accessible, but many stations are not. Art-Reach maintains "Access the Arts: A Guide for People with Disabilities," online at www.art-reach.org, with listings for more than 140 area facilities; for more information, call tel. 215/568-2115. The Philadelphia airport's website, www.phl.org, also publishes a guide for travelers with disabilities -- ADA services include 31 TDD telephones, elevators and escalators, Braille ATMs, curb cuts, and wheelchair-accessible shuttle buses. The airport hot line for travelers with disabilities is tel. 215/937-6700 (TDD tel. 215/937-6755).

Travelers with disabilities will find most tourist areas accessible. All Center City curbs are cut at intersections. Nonetheless, some streets in Society Hill and around Independence National Historical Park have uneven brick sidewalks; Dock Street is paved with rough cobblestones, and some historic sites -- Betsy Ross's house, for example -- are not wheelchair-friendly.

Parking can be tough, however, as handicapped parking spots -- marked with blue meters -- are in high demand. The Independence Visitor Center has a level entrance and publishes Accessibilities, a brochure detailing all parking sites.

Virtually all theaters and stadiums accommodate wheelchairs. Call ahead to plan routes. To aid people with hearing impairments, the Kimmel Center and Academy of Music provide free infrared headsets for concerts; the Annenberg Center rents them for $2.

The Free Library of Philadelphia runs a Library for the Blind and Physically Handicapped, very conveniently located at 919 Walnut St. (tel. 215/683-3213; http://lbph.library.phila.gov); it's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm. It adjoins the Associated Services for the Blind, which offers transcriptions into Braille for a fee.

The America the Beautiful -- National Park and Federal Recreational Lands Pass -- Access Pass (formerly the Golden Access Passport) gives visually impaired or permanently disabled persons (regardless of age) free lifetime entrance to federal recreation sites administered by the National Park Service, including the Fish and Wildlife Service, the Forest Service, the Bureau of Land Management, and the Bureau of Reclamation. This may include national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife refuges.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. Note:  U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U. S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the Western Hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; visit www.getyouhome.gov for details). Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship.

Passport Offices:

• Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).
• Canada -- Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).
• Ireland -- Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).
• New Zealand -- Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott St., Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).
• United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).
• United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. (Note:  This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult http://travel.state.gov/visa.) Even though a visa isn't necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler's passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is a $14 fee for the online application. Existing ESTA registrations remain valid through their expiration dates. Note:  Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if the valid passport was issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone; or if the valid passport was issued between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas, but will need to show passports and proof of residence.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa.

For information about U.S. visas go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "Visas." Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600) or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://canberra.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 09042-450-100 from within the U.K. at £1.20 per minute; or tel. 866/382-3589 from within the U.S. at a flat rate of $16 and is payable by credit card only) or by visiting the "Visas to the U.S." section of the American Embassy London's website at http://london.usembassy.gov/visas.html.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the U.S. Embassy Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (tel. 1580-47-VISA [8472] from within the Republic of Ireland at €2.40 per minute; http://dublin.usembassy.gov).

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/462-6000; http://newzealand.usembassy.gov).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- Philadelphia and its suburbs' telephone area codes are 215, 267, 484, 610, and 835. Lancaster County and the Pennsylvania Dutch region use area code 717.

Business Hours -- Philly banks are generally open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, with some open Saturday from 9am to noon. TD Banks offer extended hours and are open Sunday. Most bars and restaurants serve food until 10 or 10:30pm. Those near Rittenhouse Square and in Old City tend to stay open later, and some Chinatown places stay open until 3am. Bars must close at 2am. Offices are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm. Stores are open daily from about 10am to 7pm; most Center City shops keep doors open later on Wednesday evenings. Old City, Rittenhouse Square, South Street, and Northern Liberties are the most active late-night districts.

Doctors -- Most hotel concierges will be able to point you toward medical care.

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don't even think about driving while intoxicated.

Bars and restaurants can serve alcohol until 2am. Because the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania controls all packaged good sales, wine and liquor can be purchased only at state-controlled Wine and Spirits Shops (tel. 717/783-7637; www.lcb.state.pa.us), most of which are open 6 days a week until 9pm, some of which also have limited hours on Sundays. One larger, centrally located Wine and Spirits Shop is 1218 Chestnut St. (btw. 12th and 13th sts.; tel. 215/560-4380). Some convenience stores and bars have licenses to sell bottles and cans of beer. For cases and kegs of beer, you'll need to seek out a beer distributor such as Bella Vista Beer Distributor at 755 S. 11th St. (btw. Fitzwater and Catharine sts.; tel. 215/627-6465; www.bellavistabeverage.com).

Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110-120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220-240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212) or check www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; www.usa.embassy.gov.au). Consulates are in New York, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/washington). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.embassyofireland.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities. See website for complete listing.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-6500; http://ukinusa.fco.gov.uk). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle.

Emergencies -- For help from police, the fire department, or an ambulance, dial tel. 911.

Hospitals -- Medical care in Philadelphia is world renowned. Major hospitals include Children's Hospital of Philadelphia, aka "CHOP," 34th Street and Civic Center Boulevard (tel. 215/590-1000; www.chop.edu); Hahnemann University Hospital, Broad and Vine streets (tel. 215/762-7000; www.hahnemannhospital.com); University of Pennsylvania Hospital, 3400 Spruce St. (tel. 215/662-4000; www.pennhealth.com); Pennsylvania Hospital, 8th and Spruce streets (tel. 215/829-3000; www.pennhealth.com/pahosp); and Thomas Jefferson University Hospital, 11th and Walnut streets (tel. 215/955-6000; www.jeffersonhospital.org).

Insurance -- For information on traveler's insurance, trip-cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit http://www.frommers.com/planning.

Legal Aid -- While driving, if you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. In the U.S., the burden is on the state to prove a person's guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. The international visitor should call his or her embassy or consulate.

Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 28¢ for a postcard and 44¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 98¢ (75¢ to Canada and 79¢ to Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information go to www.usps.com.

If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license or passport, for example). Most post offices will hold mail for up to 1 month, and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don't know your zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Philadelphia has two main print journals, both owned by the same firm. The Philadelphia Inquirer is the more internationally minded of the two, and has a great Friday "Weekend" supplement of listings and prices of entertainment, as well as events and tours. The Philadelphia Daily News has more local news and sports coverage. Find them at newsstands, corner pay boxes, and convenience stores. Visit both papers online at www.philly.com. The Metro is a free daily offered at SEPTA stations. Free alternative weeklies PW (Philadelphia Weekly) and City Paper offer a glimpse of the younger side of city life; you'll find them in street-corner boxes. Philadelphia magazine (where I work) is the city's upscale magazine and is sold at bookstores and newsstands. It is available online at www.phillymag.com, and has a mobile application offering a glimpse of its signature "Best of Philly" winners. For the most complete selection of local and international journals and newspapers, try Avril 50, 3406 Sansom St. (tel. 215/222-6108; www.avril50.com), in University City. Center City has a Barnes & Noble at 1805 Walnut St. (tel. 215/665-0716) and a Borders bookstore at 1 S. Broad St. (tel. 215/568-7400).

Packing -- Maybe it's me, but a year of weather in Philadelphia feels like how a year of weather should be. Cold and sometimes snowy in winter, hot and sometimes muggy in summer, beautifully temperate in spring and fall, the local climate goes to an occasional extreme, but, overall, plays to each season's stereotype. Translation: In spring and fall, pack for cooler days and nights (layers usually work). In summer, dress light. In winter, come heavy. You'll likely be walking a bunch, so pack some comfortable footwear. To the chagrin of many old-timers, Philadelphia has taken a turn for the über-casual. Restaurants that once required coat and tie now welcome hoodies and jeans. Still, you'd feel out of place if you sauntered into, say, Lacroix, the Fountain, or Amada wearing a backwards baseball cap and old sneakers. For more helpful information on packing for your trip, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Police -- Police, fire, and rescue all respond to tel. 911. Philadelphia city police are regular fixtures on busy city streets. You'll find them walking, in patrol cars, and especially on bikes. Members of the Philadelphia Parking Authority wear dark blue uniforms similar to the police's -- don't confuse them or get in their way. You might end up on reality TV.

Smoking -- The minimum age to buy and to smoke cigarettes is 18. A citywide smoking ban is in effect for all public interiors, including all restaurants, shops, museums, and a large majority of bars. Smoking is prohibited within 20 feet of all Philadelphia building entryways (but you might not want to remind that to a smoker standing outside a bar).

Taxes -- The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags. At press time, Philadelphia's hotel tax adds 14.2% onto room rates, 6% for state tax, and 8.2% city surcharge. There is an 8% tax on restaurant meals and general sales, and a 10% tax on liquor. Clothing and food bought in groceries is tax-free.

Time -- Philadelphia follows Eastern Standard Time (EST). The continental United States is divided into three other time zones: Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, when it's 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it's 7am in Honolulu (HST),10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

Daylight saving time (summer time) is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

For help with time translations, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Tipping -- In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a big mess to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $2 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 18% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cabdrivers 15% to 20% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 18% to 20%.

For help with tip calculations, currency conversions, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most U.S. cities but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons. Starbucks prides itself on its clean, accessible facilities.

Tips for Families

Philadelphia is a wonderful destination for families, with its accessible layout and historical sites that are meaningful to all ages. From the kid-friendly Please Touch Museum (recently relocated to a spectacular and huge new home) to Sesame Place amusement park to Camden's Adventure Aquarium, to the "Once Upon a Nation" characters dressed in Colonial-era garb who, in summertime, perform throughout Independence National Historical Park, there is a wealth of attractions for children. Visit www.gophila.com/family for some excellent packages and ideas.

Health & Safety

Philadelphia's Center City (bordered by the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers from east to west, and from South St. to Spring Garden St. from south to north) is quite safe, especially in the high-traffic areas of Old City and along Walnut Street and Rittenhouse Square.

Still, it is a city: Be aware of others around you; keep handbags zipped and secured; don't leave belongings alone in a public space; when in a cafe, bar, shop, or museum, do not leave anything you'd like to see again on the ground, on your table, or otherwise unattended. Pay attention to your surroundings, especially after dark on quiet streets, and in emerging neighborhoods such as Graduate Hospital, Northern Liberties, and the Italian Market area. If it's late, spring for a cab -- or, at least, don't walk alone. Please, please don't walk by yourself at night while talking on a cellphone -- or listening to headphones.

Crime tends to increase in times of economic strife, and petty crimes increase at the year's end. On a (somewhat) more positive note: The city's whopping homicide rate is generally not because of the untimely departures of out-of-towners. (But you might want to hedge your bets by not wearing a Dallas Cowboys football jersey or a New York Mets baseball cap.)

Getting There

By Plane

Most flights to and from Philadelphia use Philadelphia International Airport -- airport code PHL -- (tel. 215/937-6937; www.phl.org), at the southwest corner of the city. For up-to-the-minute information on airline arrival and departure times and gate assignments, call tel. 800/PHL-GATE (745-4283).

By air, Philadelphia is 2 1/2 hours from Miami or Chicago, and 6 hours from the West Coast. Some 30 carriers fly from more than 100 cities in the U.S. and 16 destinations abroad. US Airways is the "hub" tenant, and avails itself of four terminals. B and C are the main terminals; the end Terminal F serves commuters. Terminal A West (gates A14-A26) services international travelers. Terminal B is the place to catch taxis, buses, and hotel limousines. There is a shopping corridor between terminals B and C, where you can buy gifts such as books, electronic gadgets, and jewelry, and even browse at Gap.

Getting into Town from the Airport

Eight miles southwest of Center City, the Philadelphia International Airport is -- best-case scenario -- a 15-minute drive away. Usually, however, drivers can count on a good 30 minutes (more during rush hour) via either of the major thoroughfares, I-95 or I-76.

By Car -- At the airport exit, follow signs to I-95 N. and I-76. After 4/5 of a mile, take the right fork to I-76 W./Valley Forge. This route takes you approximately 1 mile via Penrose Avenue and the George C. Platt Memorial until you arrive at a traffic light (26th St.). Turn left. After less than 1 mile, this road becomes I-76 W. Continue on I-76 W. for 2 1/2 miles. Center City will be on your right. You may access the city via exits at South Street, Market Street, or 676 W. for Broad Street, 8th Street (for the Pennsylvania Convention Center), or 6th Street (for Independence Visitor Center, the Liberty Bell, and Independence Hall).

Alternate route: At the airport exit, follow signs to I-95 N. Continue on I-95 for 7 miles. Exit left for 676 W. Exits for Broad Street or the Ben Franklin Parkway will appear in less than 1 mile on the right.

By Train -- Trains arrive at Penn Station (30th St.) in West Philadelphia, just on the other side of the Schuylkill River from Center City, and about 15 blocks from City Hall. Take a taxi or SEPTA from the station to your hotel.

Each baggage claim connects to taxi, limousine, and shuttle services. The Southeastern Pennsylvania Transportation Authority (SEPTA) provides train service from terminals A to E to Center City (30th St., Suburban, and Market East stations) via the R1 regional rail line. A one-way ticket costs $7. The train runs every 30 minutes from early morning until late night. For more information, visit www.septa.org.

By Bus

Being a couple hours' drive from New York and a couple hours' more from Washington, D.C., makes Philadelphia a smart place to get to by bus. For years, intra-city bus travelers had one option: the beleaguered Greyhound terminal at 1001 Filbert St. (at 10th St. btw. Market and Arch sts.; tel. 215/931-4075). That station is still there, a convenient hub for nation-reaching Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222; www.greyhound.com) and New Jersey Transit (tel. 973/275-5555; www.njtransit.com), which has service throughout the Garden State, including Atlantic City and other shore points.

Recent years have seen the addition of station-free bus lines, whose competitive rates and convenient Wi-Fi access have brought a slightly classier, if not quite stable, feel to the mode. At press time, these lines departed across the street from one another, at 30th Street at J.F.K. Boulevard, on the west side of 30th Street Station. Bolt Bus (tel. 877/BOLT-BUS [265-8287]; www.boltbus.com) offers regular, reliable service to downtown and midtown New York City. Look for the bright orange bus. Its main competitor is the bright blue MegaBus (tel. 877/GO2-MEGA [462-6342]; www.megabus.com), an often double-decker vehicle that serves New York, Boston, Baltimore, Washington, D.C., Buffalo, Toronto, Pittsburgh, and more. Both bus lines advertise $1 fares, and offer them to the first passenger to book a ticket on a line, with most tickets to New York costing about $12 each way.

By Car

It's not surprising that two-thirds of all visitors arrive by car: Philadelphia is some 300 miles (6 hr. or so) from Boston; 100 miles (2 hr.) from New York City; 135 miles (3 hr.) from Washington, D.C.; and 450 miles (9 hr.) from Montreal.

Philadelphia is easily accessible via a series of interstate highways that circle or pass through the city. I-95 (not to be confused with the New Jersey Tpk., which goes by the same name) runs along the city's eastern edge, running north and south. The six-lane I-276 (the original Pennsylvania Tpk.) comes in from the north/northeast, connecting to the New Jersey Turnpike. The oft-congested I-76 (aka the Schuylkill Expwy.) runs east and west, snaking along the Schuylkill River into town, connecting into the heart of Center City via I-676 (aka the Vine St. Expwy.) and reconnecting I-76 to Camden, New Jersey, via the Ben Franklin Bridge over the Delaware. (Confused yet?) Connecting all of the above is I-476, "the Blue Route," which edges along western suburbs, about 15 miles west of town, linking up I-276 and I-76 at its northern end with I-95 to the south.

A few things drivers ought to know about driving in the city of Philadelphia: Most Center City streets are one-way. Most streets are paved with asphalt, but a few -- Dock Street, for example -- remain cobblestone or brick. Pedestrians abound, and always have the right of way. Philadelphia parking laws are no joke: Allow a parking meter to expire or leave your car in a no-parking zone, and you just might find yourself on the next episode of Parking Wars.

By Train

Philadelphia is a major Amtrak stop (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245]; www.amtrak.com). Amtrak terminal 30th Street Station, 30th and Market streets (tel. 215/349-3196; www.amtrak.com), is on the Boston-Washington, D.C., northeast corridor, which has extensions south to Florida, west to Pittsburgh and Chicago, and east to Atlantic City. This station also connects via SEPTA regional rail and subway (www.septa.com) to Suburban Station (16th St. and J.F.K. Blvd.) and Market East Station (12th and Filbert sts.). Suburban and Market East are located near most Center City hotels, while 30th Street Station is closest to the hotels of University City.

From New York's Penn Station, Philadelphia is a 73- to 96-minute ride away. Regular rail service -- called "Regional" or "Keystone" -- is 7 to 23 minutes longer than Acela Express (73-min.) service, but the cheaper price is often worth the extra time. Fares for the Regional and Keystone trains run from $48 to $93 weekdays; Acela trains cost from $117 to $146. (Amtrak does not offer discounts for booking round-trip travel.) Washington, D.C., is 1 1/2 to 2 hours away (fares run $47-$165). The ride to/from Boston is 5 to 7 hours ($85-$211); from Chicago, it's about an 18-hour ride, with fares from $134 to $165. Rates are as of press time.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Philadelphia is more of a collection of neighborhoods than a unified metropolis. Here are short descriptions of those that you're likely to find yourself in.

Bella Vista -- This is a vibrant section of South Philadelphia from South Street to Washington Avenue, 6th to 11th Street. The neighborhood includes the now-international Italian Market, many coffee shops, trattorias, and bakeries.

Center City -- In other places, this busiest section of town would be called "downtown." Borders on the east and west are Schuylkill and Delaware rivers, to the south and north, South Street and Vine Street. Neighborhoods within the general area of Center City: Old City, Society Hill, Rittenhouse Square, and Washington West.

Chestnut Hill -- This enclave of genteel city living centered on cobblestone upper Germantown Avenue is the highest point within city limits and is the place where the term "WASP" (white Anglo-Saxon Protestant) was invented. It's filled with art and antiques galleries, shops, tearooms, and farmer's markets. Visit it at www.chestnuthillpa.com.

Chinatown -- Nowadays it's largely commercial rather than residential. Most visitors come for its dozens of good restaurants, a growing number of hotels, and cheap parking only 5 minutes from the convention center. Chinatown seems to stay awake all night.

Fairmount -- Also known as the art museum area, this neighborhood stretches north from Benjamin Franklin Parkway to Girard Avenue. Although it's largely residential, Fairmount also includes the Free Library, the Rodin Museum, Eastern State Penitentiary, and the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Germantown -- One of Philadelphia's oldest settlements, Germantown is northwest of Center City. This area was founded by German émigrés, attracted by Penn's religious tolerance. Outside of its wonderful historic mansions, however, it is not especially tourist-friendly now.

Manayunk -- This neighborhood, four miles up the Schuylkill River from Center City, has been gentrified over the last 20 years. Now boutiques, furniture and art galleries, and cafe/restaurants line Main Street, overlooking a 19th-century canal adjoining the river. It's a picturesque place for an afternoon stroll and an alfresco snack. Visit it virtually at www.manayunk.com.

Mount Airy -- Between Chestnut Hill and Germantown, this community is known for its pioneering diversity, beautifully mismatched houses, tree-lined streets, and independent shopping, dining, and entertainment. A great place for a Sunday drive.

Northern Liberties -- North of Old City, between the Delaware River and 6th Street, this developing area is home to both low-income housing and brand-new million-dollar lofts, and the artist-owned brownstones in between. Go here to see how hip bars and simple bistros are fueling the city's revival. For more information visit www.northernliberties.org.

Old City -- In the shadow of the Benjamin Franklin Bridge just north of Independence National Historical Park, this eclectic enclave blends 18th-century row houses, 19th-century warehouses, and 20th-century rehabs. Shopping and dining star here, and the first Friday of every month is a pleasantly packed neighborhood-wide party, with galleries and stores open late. Visit www.oldcitydistrict.org.

Queen Village -- Between Society Hill and South Philly, this leafy neighborhood of old houses (once known as Wiccaco, then Pennsport) is bounded by South Street to the north, Washington Avenue to the south, the Delaware to the east, and 6th Street to the west. There are lots of small, reasonably priced cafes and bistros here, as well as Fabric Row, South 4th Street between Bainbridge and Catharine streets, where you'll find old-time fabric and notions shops along with newer galleries, salons, and boutiques. For more information go to www.qvna.org.

Rittenhouse Square -- This beautifully landscaped park ringed by elegant condominiums built in the 1930s and historic mansions illustrates the elegance, wealth, and culture of Philadelphia. Now, sleek outdoor cafes and a luxury hotel line the park. From the Rittenhouse Hotel on a sunny day, walk through the square to Walnut Street, where the shopping rivals that of Boston and San Francisco for charm and sophistication. For more information go to www.rittenhouserow.org.

Society Hill -- This heart of reclaimed 18th-century Philadelphia is loosely defined by Walnut and Lombard streets and Front and 7th streets. Today, it's a fashionable section of the old city, just south of Independence National Historical Park, where you can stroll among restored Federal, Colonial, and Georgian homes -- even the contemporary, architecturally modern is interesting and immaculately maintained.

South Philadelphia -- It's Rocky Balboa meets artist lofts and authentic tacquerias. Three hundred years of immigration have made South Philadelphia the city's most colorful and ethnically diverse neighborhood, although the overwhelming feel is distinctly Italian (think 1910s Calabria). Stroll the gritty, redolent Italian Market at 9th and Christian, heading south, snacking on cheeses, cured meats, pastries, and tamales, on your way to the famously flashy cheesesteak stands at Passyunk and 9th streets.

South Street -- The street that divides Society Hill and Queen Village was the city limit in William Penn's day. The 1960s saw bohemian artists reclaiming this street in the name of peace and love; an eclectic teen scene has replaced the previous hippies. Quiet by day and cruised by night, it's a colorful spot for casual dining, drinking, shopping, gallery hopping, and getting pierced (or tattooed). The neighborhood's website is www.southstreet.com.

University City -- West Philadelphia was farmland until the University of Pennsylvania moved here from 9th and Chestnut streets in the 1870s. Wander through Penn's campus for Ivy League architecture that includes an 1895 college green modeled on Oxford and Cambridge, but with Dutch gables. Also nearby are the bustling campuses of Drexel University, University of the Sciences, Lincoln University Urban Center, and the Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College.

Washington Square West -- "Wash West" extends from Washington Square Park at 6th and Walnut streets south to Lombard and west to Juniper Street. Still catching up to Rittenhouse or Society Hill, this quiet stretch includes Antique Row (Pine St.), the "Gayborhood," and a retail "Midtown Village" corridor along 13th Street.