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This is one of Stephen Starr's more downmarket eateries, a noisy, crowded pizzeria overlooking the north end of Headhouse Square, just off South Street. There are a handful of apps (true Italian ones, like arancini rice balls, grilled octopus, and polpette meatballs), salads, and pasta dishes, but this place is really all about the pizza, thin-crust pies with toppings both classic and clever (capicola, pine nuts, smoked mozzarella, and so on). Stella delights in its odd touches. Prosecco (Italian bubbly) comes in juice glasses, and one of the gelato flavors is olive oil. (I've tried that. Let's just say it wasn't as bad as the foie gras gelato I once sampled in New York.)